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Posts posted by Choppa

  1. @Sparky, Seeing the video clip reminded me of the dribble I had from the carbs on mine which you sorted a few years  ago. Do you think this  is a similar problem, i.e. worn float needle valves rather than anything to do with fuel lines?

    Also, even though I generally use "super" do you have any thoughts on E10 fuel and the lifetime of those breather pipes? Do you think they will expire even quicker?  I bet mine are nice and crispy and in several pieces if I peeled back the carpet on the bulkhead and had a look.

  2. It was rather odd being the only Esprit owner among loads of very well turned out Elises Exiges and Evoras, they were all so clean and shiny! Eventually another Esprit owner came along to help  keep the Esprit flag flying.  

    Great chatting with you @Bibs , as you say it's been a long time! 

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  3. When I came to do this job on mine, the foam had rotted so much there was hardly any left and I was able to use a vacuum cleaner and tweezers to suck/pull out out the remaining bits. I didn't  remove the B pillar, I purchased a piece of the black foam that pet shops supply for fish tank filters, cut it into sections and carefully pushed the blocks of foam through the gaps in the B pillar using a spatula.

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  4. My single drive to the alps wasn't nearly so eventful, nothing fell off, nothing broke and the car behaved impeccably. However travelling through France you'll need to carry a few bits of "stuff" to keep the French police happy if they choose to stop you however you go.  The motoring organisations will give you a complete list but off the top of my head you'll need a couple of breathalyzers,  Hi Viz jackets for each passenger, plus if you are driving up to a ski resort during the season they will insist on you having snow chains and that you fit them when required.  Kneeling in an icey puddle while fitting chains to the rears on my Esprit  isn't an experience I'd be keen to repeat so a waterproof sheet to kneel on would be my number one suggestion in addition to Peter's list. 

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  5. 6 hours ago, canamfan said:

     the light source for the headlight switch came from what appeared to be a "fiber optic" type of little plastic clear line that brought the light to the switch, 

    That's different to mine. The headlight switch has a small bulb fitted in a holder behind the green illumination window which comes on with the ignition.  The fiber optics wires run from that light box to the illumination windows on the other switches in the dash but not the window switches. 

  6. The window switches on my S3 N/A are identical and don't have  bulb holders for illumination either. From the photos neither do yours. As per Henry's post if I were ever after doing this job, rather than running copper to them  I'd fit  a couple of extra strands of optic fibre from the central light box for the switch illumination behind the dash down to the window switches and make some sort of holders to keep the fibre in place at either end. While I was at it I'd probably fit a much brighter green LED bulb in that light box as well 

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  7. When I fitted the LED headlamp bulbs on mine I had two of the Cibie lamp units re-silvered by these guys.

    Not a  cheap options  but worth it IMO to pass the MOT and to retain the original look. The company did a fine job, and all done and returned in a couple of (pre-lockdown) weeks.

    The problem for refurbishing these Cibie lamp units and maybe units like yours is that they have to split the glass lens from the reflector before they can do the re-silvering and that comes with a breakage  risk and an extra labour charge on top of the re-silvering. They don't often have lens that break while they split them from the reflector but they did warn of the risk before hand.

    I'd love to know what other car used those headlamp clips, they seem so expensive, maybe someone else sells them at a better price when it's for a different car. I ended up only replacing a couple of clips that had definitely failed and cleaned the adjusting screws rather than replace them. 


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  8. Do your car have the Thermal Trip switch fitted under the bonnet? P/N A082M6196F On my  S3 N/A L/C its under the bonnet on the LHS of the "frunk" Mine has a little red button on the top of the little black box which is marked Otter.

    I've never had to touch that button but I think the device is supposed to sense if a radiator fan has failed and stops them running until the red button is reset (and presumably you've sorted the problem with the fan). Maybe the problem is around that? 

  9. I don't know anyone who has fitted those PNM units. However me @Chillidoggyand a couple of others on here have fitted LED headlamp bulbs  from Classic Car LEDs in the original lens units of our cars and have seen a fantastic improvement in the beam quality. They  supply top quality lamps not the cheaper bulbs you find on ebay and are very helpful. Mine has the Cibie dipped beam units which are no longer available and the silver coating was starting to flake away so  I did think about the PNM units briefly but I decided against because I think I would have had to replace the mounting plates in the pods as well. I eventually  got the Cibie units  re-silvered by a specialist company in Kent so it still looks original.

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  10. There is a capacitor across the brake switch on my S3 to stop the interference you are talking about but it doesn't look like that. 

    It's item #12 on the diagram P/N A074M6008Z Capacitor 1uF stop switch.

    No idea what the markings on the capacitor in your photo mean. It doesn't look in very good condition and it can't have been doing anything if it was in the passenger footwell!  Maybe it was wired across the brake switch, removed at some point and never replaced hence the noise .


  11. Looking at the photo It may be just dirt on the contacts and the switch is actually OK. Also inside the boot there are some black earth wires for the reversing lights with bullet connectors on the ends that might need a clean.  I suggest you clean those, them pull off both spade connectors from the switch and give them and the terminals on the switch a good clean with emery paper or something similar.  If you want you could also gently use a wire brush to clean up the body of the switch. To test after cleaning and reconnecting the wires, turn the ignition on but don't start the car, put it in reverse and nip round the back and have a look. If you have a multimeter you could  check the switch before connecting the wires. No need to bother with the ignition for this, put it in reverse set the meter to measure ohms and test for continuity across the two terminals.

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  12. Just been out and counted them and there are 18 LEDs in the strip attached to the underside of my glove box and that is  the perfect length with no excess strip dangling around. You get 6 LEDs per 10 cm so I must have fitted a 30cm strip on each side and I was totally wrong when I said earlier that the strip I fitted had 9 LEDs, sorry,  I did get the length right though! 

  13. @thebartmanThe LED strips had two wires on the ends, black wire to earth, red wire to the switched positive from the alarm which stays live for 30 seconds. The strips come in multiples of 3 LEDs, and are available in several different colours other than the warm white I chose.  The strips I fitted were both 9 LEDS long, which measured about 12 inches. If you order a strip which is too long you can cut them to fit, the strips have the cut point marked, you can't just cut anywhere otherwise they apparently stop working. The adhesive on the strip stuck very well to the underside of the glove box.  I guess you could do something similar using the door pin switches which should work the same and would be especially neat if the courtesy lamps  had a delay module fitted

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  14. I don't know if I'm unlucky but since 89 when I got it I've never had a delay to the interior lights on my 86 S3 they are either on or off depending on if the doors are open or not. 

    However recently I had to replace the after market alarm and door lock relay control module which failed 25 years after I fitted them. The alarm I fitted as a replacement had a wire for interior light delay and so I wired it up to some warm white LED strips that I've stuck above the foot wells on each side. I left the standard interior light alone.  Because the LEDs take so little current, way less than the switch capability on that bit of the alarm, I've not needed to fit a relay.

    This is what they look like, I'm quite pleased with the results,  the photo doesn't really do them justice



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  15. I was getting mine MOT'd today, passed with no advisories which was a result, however I did get teased for only having driven 250 miles in it this year. I have an excuse !

    Interesting footnote to the above pass. When I checked it over yesterday the only thing I discovered was that the washer nozzles seemed to be blocked and did not respond to the usual poke with a fine needle. I found I had a load of strange black stuff lurking in the bottom of my screen wash bottle which clogged up the jets the moment I pressed the button. What ever it was seemed to be growing in the Tescos pre prepared washer liquid I'd put in there, good down to -1C  you know. I'll use the expensive stuff from now on!


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  16. I have Blackvue dashcams in my Esprit and my daily drive, both have Wifi and using the Blackvue app I can log in to the cameras to view live footage or any of the recorded clips. The one problem I have with them is that as my phone recognizes them as a preferred WiFi connection, if I try and make a phone call it tries to make a Wifi call via the camera which isn't connected to anything else! Same sort of thing happens if I want to use Waze or Google Maps, I have to remember to drop the WiFi Connection to the camera in order to do anything.

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