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jeff_hooper

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Everything posted by jeff_hooper

  1. I have gone the powder coated route to refinish my Plenum and Cam covers and looking to now get myself organised for refitting. Injector 'o' rings and all the gaskets seem fine for refitting and the Lotus manual mostly seems to advise 'inspect and replace if necessary....'. I do have some small rubber hoses to renew especially the thin red pipe linked to boost pressure that's connects into the throttle body. In fact I suspect this little rubber piece (which has an old looking tear in it might have been leaking for a while and may be the source of the boost gauge undereading. (The car has been checked professionally on diagnostics and boost is as it should be although the boost gauge reading is way under). I'm tempted to replace all the original factory fit hose connectors That aren't jubilees (the green ones that you just pinch with pliers) with jubillee hose fittings. Although I might leave the oil breather pipes for originality (and because a really effective seal isn't critical. Or maybe find a source to buy new fittings of the 'pinch' clip style? So any obvious areas to consider please? is it okay to just rebuild if stuff looks okay? Or I don't surpose Lotus just do a kit with everything for this top end? The silicone rubber gaskets under the rockers were held in place with some black silicon looking stuff what is it please as I need some for reassembly? This stuff was also used to seal all around the spark plug covers in additional to the standard grey rubber gasket. I guess to mainly stop water ingress, is this correct/typical as it looked a little untidy? Many Thanks, Jeff
  2. A 96 V8 with Brembo's up front and some 'tiny' little rear calipers.. lol ! (I had a dust cover over the car when I took the first back wheel off and I could only see half the hub and rear disc. I could only see this little caliper and figured it had to be the handbrake.. Then looked under the dust sheet covering at the other side of the wheel arch aaaargh... nothing there. lol... big disc though which I surpose what makes the difference against a hot hatch or similair ! - I just expected to find a bigger caliper!..) Anyway checked the discs with a micrometer and checked the manual and I'm close to the wear limit, which is okay I surpose for 33k. Looking at the disc/pad options there seems loads to choose from. I'm not going to do anything like a major upgrage to AP calipers or anything like that. From what I can see I'm easily into
  3. Best way I have found to save fuel is buy an Esprit mines been of the road 6 months now.... LOL Jeff ( aaaah, so much fun then so much cost with so much anxiety and so much worry, like marrying a supermodel, fun when its working but you just know its gonna go wrong and cost you in the end.... )
  4. One thought strikes me is what is actually happening with this 'Group B rally car popping and banging thing'. This suggests to me fuel being burnt in the exhaust. In which case on standard cars with Cats can this fuel/popping and banging damage the cats? I have already had to have a Cat recored - blamed on a sticking waste gate and or faulty O2 sensors resulting in excess fuelling getting to the cats? It may be its not fuel causing the popping and banging or it may for such short periods it would not affect the normal life of a Cat but its something to consider/ask? You wouldn't be happy if you were a serial abuser of your shiney new very impressive traction control system then found you needed a pair of recored or god forbid new Cats at 1,000 2,000 or even 10,000 miles later.. Jeff That said I really do like this idea..
  5. LOL yes goooood point, that its wasn't sorted properly first time. I'm having my tank repaired and then 'Re-nU' coated. which is a coating with a lifetime guarantee... about
  6. I'm going to email the factory direct see what written response I get. Also does anyone know where I can get hold of 'Marcus' and his s360 upgrade... Thanks Jeff
  7. Picked up this possible option from LEW site. I'm sorry to say I'm reluctant to do any of the after market upgrades, although I know a number of people will tell me thats the way to go. Phoned my local dealer who have now come back to me after speaking with the factory. The official line from Louts is quoted as saying; 'Its not worth it there is hardly any difference. The majority of performance improvement with the 350 Sport derives from the lighter weigh bodyworks etc.' So do the graphs on LEW mean any noticable difference? Its difficult to tell what they mean in raw figure work as there are no scales at the side. So was any comments by the factors about the 350 Sport ECU at the time the Sport 350 was marketed just a lot of marketing hot air. These facts from Lotus might well be as simple as it sounds but, as I have now have two contraditory stories (LEW and the factory) both sources I'd like to be able to trust. Other possibilities are in my mind; 1. My 1996 ECU is difficult to upgrade (I think part of the overall engine management system differs slightly later cars particularly the diagnostics). 2. As an ex-directors car (They know which car I own) its already tweaked in some way (I doubt this because I'm very aware when driving in lower gears of the boost coming up and then dropping/being capped off to a steady state, unrelated to revs, and that capping doesn't seem to happen the same in 5th - maybe? not driven any others or been in a 350 Sport and general background noise is a lot higher in 5th! so just guess work on my part here). It had a new engine when still factory owned in 97. 3. Its just not work the factory want to be bothered with anymore (for whatever reason). 4. The bloke that does it is on holiday (sorry couldn't resist). 5. They have lost the floppy disk (still being silly give me a minute). 6. They know how easy it is to wreck the gearbox etc. and don't want to say that directly but have my best interests at heart (I do love them really). The reason I was looking at a firmware update is that the ECU is out of the car (rusty fuel tanks at 33,000 miles 9 years) - at present so an easy thing for me to get done. Has anyone had it done by the factory and know how much it costs (they didn't quote) and what DID it actually feel like in reality? Discuss.... lol Thanks Jeff Ps. I'm inclined towards a combination of 3 and 6...
  8. It seems to be a crinkle finish in what I can only describe as a 'light red'. Has anyone any suggestion for sourcing the paint, please? Looks to be a spray finish. I have spray gear if it doesn't come in spray cans. Thanks. Jeff
  9. Latest update on this problem. I've finally got around to doing the job of getting both tanks out, pasenger side is leaking and its prudent to look at the other side just in case. As well as just stripping everything out that's obviously getting in the way. You need to take of the rocker covers, plenum chamber, fuel rails and also trim a little fibreglass of each side of the top of the bodywork, its the last bit hidden by the side trim piece so it doesn't really matter but when you look at it it doesn't follow teh line of teh roof and just sticks down a few millimetres too much. I took a strip off about 5 mm deep and tapering backwards over 10 cm to nothing. It makes all the difference. Drivers side came out fine but on the passenger side the the balancer pipe protruding on the bottom of the tank is the final problem. I gave up and got my arm in with a big hacksaw and cut ot off. Both tanks look in similair condition underneath with a big damp rust patch in one corner and a very damp piece of soundproofing that's more water damp than petrol. So I was right to get the drivers tank out at the same time. Next is repair at a specialist, any suggestion for the North West/Manchester areas? from what I have read 'renu' coating inside and out by the specialist after the steel is reapired of course is the way to go? I'm also planning to get them to put on a banjo type (?) fitting on the bottom of the passenger tank so that the balancer pipe issue is solved for reinserting the tank in the car. My plan is to part fit the pipe but turned through 90 degrees so I can insert the tank past the tightest part (over the engine). I should then be able to reach in (like I did when the pipe was sawn off) turn the balancer pipe to its correct orientation and tighten the fitting. Okay, its introducing an extra joint under the tank but it will be an all steel fitting and because of its size will be very robust so it shouldn't be a problem. This should prove a simple mod that doesn't affect anything else. Any thoughts please on alternative material for the underside of the tank instead of the superbly designed water retaining sponge stuff. Or maybe just leave it out altogether? Jeff
  10. Get real and accept the fact that the Esprit V8 is at the limit of Esprit development and what Lotus could do and I think sold by them with there fingers crossed, they were going through all sorts of financial crisis and management changes at the time. It was poorly tested the engine was designed and built in an 'amazingly' short! Eeerm, I wonder why there have been so many failures, drive train was at the limit of what it can take, many ungrades all rushed, engine management doesn't give full torque in the first few gears cos the box can't take it, any know of any other car manufacturer that has to does Mickey Mouse tricks like that! Look at the amount of recalls from new over the first 2 years for major component changes like the clutch. What did Channel 5 have trouble with??? Gearbox - no surprise there... Engine tuned up 30%+ - there are comments on here that say don't tune em they can't take it.... (despite Lotus claiming contrary to that at launch in 1996) Clutch - no surprise there... Come on YES it was embarassing for the Esprit and us owns talking to our mates in the pub. But so is telling my mates I gotta spend another
  11. Okay this follows on from my 31/7 posting. - People have suggested I might drop the engine enough (as with 4 cylinder) to get the fuel tank out. But I really can't see there is any space to drop it into. Chassis bits are only a tiny distance below the engine. And I really need a coupel of inches to have any chance. - I also want to check the other fuel tank whilst I'm at it (that woudl be a laugh getting it all back together and teh oteh rside starts leaking!) - This leads me to having to pull the engine out / back. - Has anyone done a V8 engine pull (or is everyone too scared - I say that only partly as a joke as it probably is something to be scared off...) Or maybe seen one done or in stages of being done. The manual doesn't help although I'm told some 4 cylinder manuals do. Can anyone tell me the basic outline procedure. Am I correct in thinking its gear box off and out first. I'm planning to get the engine on a hoist up and back to where the gear box sits and I should be able to get at the tanks then, with the rear hatch off of course. Jeff Come on guys serious comments please...
  12. I have a 1996 V8 bought Nov 2004 from a mate that had it from 1999. He was told at a major service a few years back that it was overboosting but as the gauge read correct he ignored it. On my first service I too was told it was overboosting and that this had been corrected (Unrelated faulty included a new capsules, a sticking actuator, faulty cat, and two new Lambda sensors). The thing is I'm told the gauge is giving a faulty excess reading. I haven't sorted this out yet and its only moves half of what it should now. My point is consider the fact you may be being mislead by a faulty gauge. The different I notice in driving the car since the claimed 'overboost was corrected' is that in say third gear (happens too fast in 1st and 2nd) the boost climbs then feels and sounds like it get capped of (backs off slightly) to a constant boost regardless of revs. Before the boost seemed to climbed and was linked to the revs like in 4 cylinder Esprits I have driven and my wifes Audi TT. I don't know how other v8's feel. Jeff
  13. 1996 V8. Left side fuel tank needs replacing. I've stripped it all out and have the tank free but there is no way its coming out with the engine in situ. I need a lot more space (at least 2 inches) and it looks like an engine out job? or can dropping the engine slightly and taking the top covers off make enough difference? If so any advice? I have considered smacking big dents in the tank till it comes out (a bit radical, a bit desperate and not convinced it would work anyway). Then I can get a smaller custom made one to go back in. I'm told there a local firm that make one off custom design tanks for race cars and it would also be much cheaper than
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