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  1. This is all such soft stuff. Back in 1977 my mate had an old Morris Marina with a totally shagged gearbox - you had to double de-clutch UP and DOWN and get yours revs and timing absolutely right... Another fun trick I used to do was in an MG Metro I had for over 20 years and 100,000 miles and at the end was actually trying to break it, over the last few years, severak times I drove it without using the clutch at all other than when setting of from stationery... A fun challenge. Last year a mate had his clutch cable snap on a Renault saloon and he was looking for a tow a few miles to the garage, but when he started flapping about never having been towed before. I suggested it might be easier for him to drive it.. He thought I was mad so I drove him around the estate a few times and showed him how to change gear without the clutch and how to pull away in first on the starter motor... it was all flat roads with no hill starts... He chose to do it that way rather than be towed and made it no problem... Jeff H
  2. The re-gas cans we buy in Uk shops for private/home use are a gas/lubricant mix... There is just the one service/re-gas point on the Esprit. Lubricant is important to maintain the integrity of A/C seals. Jeff H
  3. I had the Quaife upgrade and LSD done by Kevin/GTO Engineering about 2 years and 3,000 miles ago. Kevin, superb customer service, nice bloke. I've not done any track days so can't comment on the 'performance' driving aspect, particularly the slippy diff against a standard 'loose' diff. 1st gear is straight cut so you notice more noise in that gear especially in slow - on and off the throttle driving in that gear. But no notice able difference moving off and going up the gears in normal driving. 1st is a little taller than the original ratio (its like - 1 1/4... compared with 1st and 2nd on the original box). So a tiny bit more slipping of the cluth to move off, and hill starts are more difficult. One pain I find personally with the longer first gear, is in stop start traffic. Rather than chase the rear of the car in front and be, on and off the throttle and brakes, up and down the gears. I've always let a good sized gap develop to the car in front, get the clutch up and just trickle along in 1st on tickover or a tiny bit of throttle. Much smoother, a lot less work for me, better mechanically for my car, and I get to the front of the queue in exactly the same time as the tailgater (except for the odd car that lane changes into the big gap). Tickover on the modified box drives the car a bit to fast for this technique, damn! So in summary, 1) I find the upgraded box has some small disadvantages at say 5 MPH.. 2) Can't tell any diference at normal road driving speeds. 3) I'm clueless about flat out on a track day, but told the slippy diff will be great in tighter corners! But my main priority was to give the car the strength of gearbox it needed and should have had in the first place. A Lotus engineer involved in the V8's development, (he was with the historic F1 Lotus team at Donnington in 2006), told me the gearbox was known to be too weak for the V8, and he seemed slightly embarassed in saying they could have done better. But explained the retail price was already so high they just couldn't do any more development/spec changes that would have certainly increase the manufacturing costs/final price even further - which I can understand - 60K was already a massive price for a Lotus back in 1996! When I said I was having the box rebuilt with the Quaife upgrade and an LSD, he smiled and said that was the way to go, and a spec close to how the engineers would have done it in the first place, given a free choice. From a personal point of view, I know I can drive the car hard and the gearbox can take it.. With a standard box I'd have been tippy toeing around worrying about something breaking again... Jeff H
  4. Don't forget to tell your insurance company, there was a thread a couple of years back that suggested some specialist insurers were not at all happy with this mod, for reasons no one could fathom... Its not exactly a difficult mod for an engineeer to spot! And if you manage to stuff it at your own fault, using a bit of the loud pedal, not unknown in an Esprit, you could have an insurer wanting to walking away and either refusing any claim outright or substantially reducing any payout. Jeff H
  5. I'd certainly pursue the idea that your not getting full clutch engagement (when you press the pedal your not getting the full response at the other end), first. When I had to get my gear box rebuild at 36K miles and 9 years old my slave cylinder was rusted to fuck internally and a right off - why doesn't the service manual list Clutch fluid replacement at 2 years intervals like the brake I have to ask?). I did the gearbox out and reinstall myself (with help from my female spanner slave) and the clutch just didn't want to play afterwards - turned out all the disruption had been the last thing for an already severley corroded slave cylinder. I'd make every effort to ensure the hydraulics that operate the clutch are working properly before pulling the gearbox to inspect the clutch and splines... The symptoms suggest to me either: 1. Clutch pedal travel is providing insufficient clutch movement. or 2. Splines insufficient lubricated/damaged..... Jeff H
  6. Does race engine modified for road use explain it? Jeff H
  7. Speaking of Audi Quattros. Anyone remember much of the Mid 80's rally cars? And the raid Audi rally did into American with Michelle Mouton winning the Pikes Peak hill climb race back in the mid 80's? Anyway, my 9 year old was playing with a new friend last Sunday afternoon. This lad said his dad was into rallying cars and as I was into cars I should go round and say hi.. So a little later I went around to his house, a few hundred yards away and this lad introduced me to his dad who was tinkering in the garage.. A mint fresh painted cream coloured bare shell short wheelbase S1 Quattro rally car sat there on stands, boxes of restored parts sat there stacked up ready to start a full rebuild.. We got chatting and he asked me whether I recognised the shell.. I said I though yes, it appeared to be a short wheel base Audi Quatrro S1.. He asked if I knew the history of the S1 in rallying and particularly of Michele Mouton.. There was a big poster on one wall a picture of an S1 I full flight, which I suggested might have been taken on the Pikes Peak race, the poster had a small face picture of Michelle Mouton in one corner... said what I thought and pointed out that it was Michelle Mouton's picture in the poster... He said I was correct in identifying Michelle Mouton in the poster and that its was Pikes Peak race. He proudly pointed out that the car in the picture was the one sat in the garage in front of me... Campaigned in America by a privateer for a number of years after the Pikes Peak race and then stored for several years. Bought by him a few years ago and now about to be fully restored... He owns 5 ex-works Audi Quatros and is a regular competitor in historic rallys. Small world.. Jeff H
  8. I recall reading the explanation in the workshop manual about the secondary injectors, with some amusement. I forget the exact wording but says something alone the lines of, 'high loads and high air flow at road speeds in excess of 135MPH..'! Now 135MPH I recall as maximum revs in 4th. So I recall thinking that thos may be one way the torque is held back by the ECU in the lower gears. I know you can't do it, but always thought it would be fun to be able to interogate the ECU to see for how long in a cars life those injectors have been used.. Jeff
  9. Yep, don't get carried away on a 'home' fix and make a mess... I've just used a little local mechanic/garage lockup place for a wheel bearing on another car that needed a 10 ton press to sort out. Left in with him half a day and cost me a tenner... You might find the first one doesn't have the equipment but I bet they will know who does in your local area, because they will be using them from tiem to time... You often have little local networks of mutual support, which is well worth patching into occasionally.. Especially with a classic or unusual car as they are often more than keen to help with it being a bit different from routine work... My mates even had people volunteering to do free work for him on a Sunday, cos its a bit different and fun... (Mk 2 Jag near concours restoration).. Jeff
  10. I alwasy new these were fast cars.. J
  11. Mine will drain a battery in less that a week so I use a battery maintainer charger all the time, which works. I have an MG Midget that only gets used maybe up to 10 times a year the battery is now several years old and perfectly happy. Absolutely agree on the Halfords 4 year thing. I keep a careful note of the expiry dates on the four Halfords batteries I have in my various cars any sign of failure I take it back and they just swop. Half the time you end up with a new 4 years guarantee. I'm not sure that is strictly correct, but hey you have had the hastle of having to take it out of the car etc. so maybe they do it by way of some sort of compensation . The Lotus is on it 2nd in 18 months and I have the pop up headlight thing starting to happen again on start up. I guess a visit to Halfords may be due soon. If you do find excess drain from the battery Maplin electronics do a piece of kit designed to go in an individual fuse way and so help identify which circuit is pulling the current of the battery. I have one but not tried it yet. Most supercars are famous for killing batteries if they aren't daily runners. Jeff
  12. 'I have an MG Midget' always gets me a laugh..... j
  13. My experience didn't come down to changes in petrol formulation. I renewed these gaskets after fuel tank changes 2 years ago they cost way to much from Lotus and failed within three months. I do little mileage, so that about 3 or 4 fillups before I notice the splits, on both sides, which I first noticed on the top edges - I'm certain they have never been splashed with fuel. I never bothered doing anything as I'd have just got the same again which would have failed the same (and all the people with the same problem prove me right). Basically its just a case of crappy supply.. maybe old stock, but most probably poor quality control through no testing of fresh stock (we do the testing for them) maybe because its from a new supplier... Not really Lotus at fault as such just problems you will alwasy get with a low volume manufacturer. I looked carefully at mine at the time. Water doesn't get - the splits don't leave gaps and water just doesn't get in there. I take great care when filling up but even then it might only be a tiny amount of fuel that might get in.. I took the view across the whole car it was the least of my problems to get excited about. It's crap, its dissapointing, its not right, but I'd list it about 10th amonst things I'd get redesigning/improved/fixed properly and long term before worrying about these gaskets..... Jeff
  14. I added an extra gauge to a classic a few years back (Smith's gauge) and the place I got the gauge from had tons of accessories threaded senders for dozens of applications. Pre-electronics though so that particular place may not help. But if you can get the sendors specs might be a good start. I've always fancied an oil temp gauge (S3 type maybe - instead of dash clock) - its the best way to know when the engine is properly warmed up, water temp comes up to normal well before oil has much temp in it. I know the sump plug sensor doesn't work in this application (I've tried it). Anyone with experience of this or ideas please? Thanks Jeff
  15. Look, I know these cars can be frustrating but no need to swear. We will help. So you want to know the correct 'bleeding' procedure for what? Jeff
  16. I think previous threads have suggested 20,000 about normal life expectancy. Its a service item, every two years I think, on a McLaren F1. Jeff
  17. '72 MG Midget... Road tax Nil... I take great pleasure each year in obtaining a Tax disc for nothing. Almost as good as sex... Jeff
  18. A Noble, can I do that although it might not be available in the US? Nearest I can get to an Esprit V8 new.. Or if I can cheat and buy it in bits an Ultima GTR. Best of all worlds true American muscle in a British engineered mid engined chassis. Jeff Ps. Raymond Baxter (Dec'd) - Broadcaster and WW2 Spitfire pilot - 'I've always admired the Americans they were the only people to shoot me down during the war'. True, apparently a P.38 Mustang pilot decided he was a German... He always said in humour with no malace intended (his wife was American).
  19. Aaargh! I got my head around the clutch adjustment at the time - 18 months ago. So I'll try to explain as I recall it and be happy to be corrected. - There is no adjustment at the clutch plate end or the slave cylinder. (If you have had the slave cylinder off it is possible to get the pin connecting slave cylinder and clutch actuator, in which case the pin get bent on first depression and the who thing is inoperable.) - The idea of adjusting the clutch pedal is to: 1. Ensure the operating range at the pedal will produce a correct movement at the clutch within tolerance. Important it not too little but also just as much that its not too far. 2. That the clutch pedal has enough free return (slack) when released to ensure the clutch is full disengaged and also that the feed hole from the clutch master cylinder reservoir is cleared by the returning piston. I think if not it means fluid can't be replenised if there is a leak and also I think its possible for the clutch to can 'pump up' so it doesn't disengage properly, which would mean slip and rapid wear. All the measurement are in the manual and the process explained nicely (one thing I can't praise LOTUS technical editors enough for). I cut appropriate lengths of thin wood for the measurements (3 I recall) rather than mess down the footwell with rulers. The only thing I had some messing with was the salck at the top of the travel as I wanted to keep it to a minimum for my own preference when driving. I did have to re-adjust a few times over the first few drivers. But that was a self imposed chore and potentailly foolhardy (see 'pumping up'). My slave cylinder was badly corroded and needed replacing. I've noticed hydralic clutch fluid changes are never listed as a service items on the cars I've had. I had an MG for 21 years, from nearly new until scrapped, mostly the same brakes system through all its 105,000 miles. But had to completely renewed the clutch hydralic system towrads the end of its life, Master slave and Damper through internal corrosion - I learnt my lesson. Any hydralic clutch system is just as likely to get corroded by moisture laden old fluid as the brakes. The clutch isn't a safety item like brakes, I guess. I always replace clutch fluid whenever I do brakes on any car. Is your slave cylinder okay? I maybe guess that it could start failing in a way that would result in insufficent travel and poor gear selection? There we go, enough talk of, 'Masters' and 'slaves' starting to sound like some pervy websites I frequent. Jeff Ps. I couldn't get the piccy on for some capacity reason it showed the splines badly torque stressed (like cogs on an old Bicycle) in two areas where each of the twin clutch plate splines sat. Pps. You haven't let any female friends drive it recently have you...? Just curious my problems started 20 miles after 'V8 owners fem slave' drove mine... Sorry being politically incorrect on a few counts here.. I did make her do most of the work pulling the gearbox out as punishment.. she's a good spanner monkey and hugely useful when your stood in the engine bay and just remember that other tool you meant to get next time you climbed out but went and forgot again... [quote name='G
  20. There's been very recent V8 postings on clutch adjustments, have a look good info there. I had the odd engagement problem similair to your description. Then the clutch started slipping. I had the previous clutch from the car with one of the plate centre splines chewed out. When I pulled the box the newer clutch in the car was damaged exactly the same after less than 3,000 miles... The piccy shows the state of the gearbox splines. The only viable way forward was a gear box rebuild. As there was so little wear on the main parts of the clutch, I had the clutch pack rebuilt as well by an AP dealer and saved a lot against new. I hope the gearbox isn't your problem it a few thousand
  21. Now there was me jumping on this thread to go on about a 1972 Morris Marina TC (TwinCarbs) Automatic 4Dr my Dad bought new. Metallic Purple, Purple vinyl roof, Purple carpets, Orange (like proper bright orange) vinyl seats. I think the car industry must have been going through its Elizabethan fashion 'ruffle neck' collar phase. MGB engine, 84 BHP... Jeff
  22. Cool, proper super car... But hope your rich... And I really really really hope you don't think you can run this car properly without spending serious money.... Sorry, to bring some real world ethics to the forum... Jeff
  23. I cut some lengths of wood to do the adjusments and checks. Makes it a lot easier that trying to use a steel rule down the footwell. When I did my clutch change I had also read threads about problem mislocating the slave pushrod and ending up with it bent or loosing it into the bell housing. I found the trick was rather than try to fit the pushrod and then bolt the slave cylinder onto its housing. Take the slave cylinder housing of the bell housing fit it to the slave cylinder and then fit that assembly back onto the bell housing. Make it much easier to ensure the push rod is correctly seated at its far end. Jeff
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