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  1. LOL, from those clips, it was obvious from how close to the vehicle in front the offending drivers were that they knew EXACTLY what they were doing - and the risk they were running... (unless there has been some very clever editing...).... I work in Manchester and I'm familiar with these posts and the routes/areas they protect. I have no sympathy the people in the following cars they have no excuses.... I be happy for land mines to be fitted to put these idiots permanately out of business.. or really really powerfull posts that keep going and roll the offending vehicle onto its side... LOL J
  2. The factory manual suggests that because of the volume of oil contained in the lines to and from the front mounted oil coolers and contained in the coolers themselves then this circuit should be purged as part of the oil change. Anyone any details on this process? Or know if dealers even bother? I was thinking of using a pre oil change additive flush before my next oil change. The can says to add the stuff and run the engine at a high tickover or take for a gentle drive for 20 minutes immedately before oil change. Now if I don't purge the cooler and lines I'm not really doing a complete oil change and I'll end up with a good portion of this can of gloop in the car for the next few thousand miles? Jeff
  3. I've just put my gearbox back on and though the clutch slave cylinder refitting through carefully to avoid loosing that pin and to ensure its properly engaged. I've found if you remove the clutch housing from the bell housing. Then bolt the slave cylinder to the clutch housing. Then refit this entire assembly to the bell housing. There's enough fiddle room for fingers between the Bell housing and Clutch housing as you line it all up to engage the pin into the clutch arm for certain. It takes the guess work out of the process and makes it an easy job. Jeff
  4. I'm just about to put my gearbox back on after its been rebuilt. The one thing I can't find in my manual is anything about the starter motor. When i'm looking at the Starter motor sprocket and the outside of the flywheel its all bone dry.. I know slapping loads of grease on the flywheel starter ring is wrong. But I'm think of a small amount of Moly grease on the Starter motor Bendix sprocket rather than leaving things completely dry... Any comments.. Thanks Jeff
  5. ???? How could the roll Pins possible contribute to oil loss???? The role pins are on the OUTSIDE of the gear box part way down the driveshaft train??? This is all far away and outside of any gear box oi/sealsl??? The UN-1 gearbox in the Renault 21 Turbo have SINGLE roll pins. In the Esprit V8 they are twin roll pins one sleeved inside the other, although the original outside diameter stays the same as the Renault box. I guess somehow the Lotus Twin pin system takes more power/or is stronget that the original Renault single pin system... Jeff I've pulled a UN-1 out of a Renault 21 Turbo recently (horribly oily job)..... AND also pulled a knackered Esprit V8 gearbox, for a Quaife (DB1 style upgrade) full rebuild +Quaife LSD upgrade, in the past few weeks.....)... Jeff
  6. Lotus Esprit V8, On the budget, is an amazing result.... a serious supercar competitor. But seriously flawed, reliability wise... Supercar wise, The Esprit V8 is a nice try...... As far as the serious usable roadcar supercar argument is concerned, Ferrari, Ferrari, Ferrari....? I can't see an real world competitors that get close.... (Porsche's are too easily girlie's cars!). Jeff
  7. LOL I guess you don't get Renault's in the good old USA then? Jeff
  8. Once you have decided on a colour I believe its just a matter of getting the old powder coat paint stripped of and new powder coating done, they should have no trouble with a colour match. Its the exact finish that can prove the problem. Depends if they have it in stock as you only need a small amount for a cam cover. If they have to get a tub of powder in special for your job it might prove expensive as its only usually available in bulk. When I had my V8 plenum and cam covers done the powder coaters said the reason the original had flacked of so easily and in big chunks was the lack of any undercoat, on the ex-factory finish. Jeff
  9. Can't really see any oil leaks in the piccies. But assuming the centre area is where you think the oil leaks are from, then its a drive shaft seal. So its a gearbox oil leak and quiet a common problem. Not a big job to fix. If you get a Renault 21 Turbo gearbox oil seal and do it yourself. Dead cheap, there are threads on how to do it on LEW. Or go to a Lotus dealer and let them charge you rip off price for the part with the same manufacturer number as you get from Renault. Any rumours about the seal being a special Lotus seal are rubbish. I've just had my box rebuilt and the Renault ones in the rebuilt box have the same manufacturer number cast in the rubber as the ones I got from Lotus... the only difference is a massive price discrepancy... Don't we all love Lotus... Jeff
  10. If you need to pay for the cam belt change care you don't get ripped of by people that claim its an engine out job - charge you for it and then DON'T take the engine out. Its a perfectly okay job for an experienced mechanic used to the Lotus V8 - I've heard that is the current factory advice to do it engine in. I've heard some Lotus specialists/garages in the UK have refused to do the work due to lack of experienced staff. To sell the car in the USA Lotus had to claim a certain life between cambelt changes - 72,000 (?). But never intended to let the cars do that sort of mileage and belts were changed at factory expense at much shorter intervals. (The more cynical of us - like me, may suggest that as a safety measure the engines were specially designed to self destruct in other ways well before the cambelt would actually snap! Usefull if ever a car never saw a main dealer for a service and the secret cambelt change - of course they can then just blame the failure on lack of proper servicing). Checking the belt tensions is an annual service item. Jeff
  11. Hmm, must say that looks very goooood... Anyone know how detailed it is though? I mean it looks accurate from the outside but does it have the same poorly developed engine, brittle gearbox and fuel tanks that rust through in under 8 years? Jeff
  12. Track daying a car is a VERY VERY different world to any sort of 'hard' road use. I track day'd my wifes 40th birthday present -an Audi TT 225 Coupe at Angelsey - a Lotus Ribble track day...! It was less than 12 months old at the time with about 4,000 miles on the clock - so an almost brand new factory spec car. The brake pedal was nearly on the floor with serious brake fade problems after about 4 laps and started to get a bit scarey... I wouldn't expect much different with a standard Esprit it would needs to be managed sensibly to get the best enjoyment and value for money out of the day, with a minimum of hastle.. Jeff
  13. British Racing Green? No such colour. My mate rebuilt a classic Mk2 Jaguar - 4.2 litre engine, overdrive, wire wheels the full spec classic 'Bandit Jag' - the proper job. That was described in the log book as, 'British Racing Green'. He approached the factory for some advice on the exact colour match. Jaguar told him they have on there records nearly 30 different shades of dark Green that they have called 'British Racing Green' covering the past 50 years.... It the same with plain non metallic Black.. who would believe there are lots of different shades of black black! But seriously there really are....!! Jeff
  14. Many thanks Neal that's the little bits and tips I was looking for. I've noticed people bleeding brakes (most often Elises!) I understand the chocks tip - good one. I have a bog standard car except for Lotus sports exhaust its not what I'd call noisy, but then its probably marginal. I've read that driving the main straight at Donnington with a light throttle is a good idea just in case... Thanks again. Jeff
  15. Does your passenger door handle have the outline of finger marks indented in it, from the passengers hanging on lol... I'm looking at a track day soon. I've done track days before but not yet with the Esprit. I plan the usual recommended checks and changing the brake fluid beforehand. I wonder what comments people might have specific to the Esprit? I'm looking at Oulton or Donnington (probably the full circuits)... I know things heat up a lot on track, especially brakes - so I'm thinking no more than maybe 5 laps a session with at least a full lap warm down after and allowing the engine to idle for a generous time before switching off. Anything else to consider like tyre pressures? Jeff
  16. Sorry for posting here but this Carcoon of mine needs a good home and it would definately prefer an Esprit to look after I placed an add in the parts section several months ago and its still there unsold. Apart from a steady stream of very dodgy enquiries claiming to be from UK people with dodgy spelt English names, and asking me sensible questions like, 'How much fast can it get' and 'What is best Mileage car has'! - These E'mails are clearly the prelude to some style of fraud but despite my replying and asking a number of them how the scam works, I'm still in the dark.. I can't figure out how they somehow expect to get someone with more than 2 brain cells - like me, to send money to them in some third world African state? But then again I was daft enough to buy a V8.... maybe they figure I must be gullible and stupid... Other than that I've not had much interest... Its time to make an effort to get rid of this Carcoon to a better home than a box in my loft and I'm open to offers. Prefer someone who can collect, lol. (I did suggest to one of the Scam E'mails that they could always collect it if they had a canoe as they could row it all the way up the Manchester Ship Canal almost to my front door.) Jeff (One scammer did ask my Bank details so I told him I prefr to use an offshore account for tax purposes and have an account on the Island of Sodor. And that my Bank Manager was the Fat Controller and his assistant was called Thomas... I suspect MI5 will now be now be monitoring my E'mails under some Money laundering regulations...)
  17. There is loads of road grit and stuff gets between the trim and body and you'd need to clean all that out to give the silicone or glue a chance to grip. I can't see a way to do that without taking them off. I would have left mine on if I could. But I really wanted to make absolutely sure of a viable repair. Jeff
  18. Another piece of less than perfect design... The fittings consists of 6 or so studs attached by small flat plates ('T' shaped) to the inside of the fibreglass trim piece. These studs go through holes in the main car bodywork with washers and nuts on the back (inside the wheel arch). Water can easily access the nuts are but also easily between the bodywork and back of the trim. The plates can come away from teh trim and the nuts rust solid on the studs. I found three of my trims loose just after I bought the car. I fixed them in different ways, remade plates and studs where they were to badly gone. Used araldite two pack epoxy glue to fix them back on, and generous lashing of coppaslip to help stop further problems with rust. I also used generous dabs of automotive silicone to bed the trims back down when I refitted them as I didn't want to just trust in those studs. Two of my trim where very close to falling off - but looked fine till I tested them, and I REALLY didn't want that to happen when driving down the motorway! The silcone also helped get them to sit correctly which I was struggling with and I didn't want to tighten the studs too much which would have risked pulled the plates away again. Jeff
  19. Try Roy or Anthony Lane at Techcraft Warwick 01926 410098. My clutch had only done 7,000 miles and failed due to the centre splines being stripped out. Techcraft seem to have serviced/reconditioned the main body and surfaces and its new thrust bearing/thrust assembly clips/springs etc and new friction plates (apologies if those aren't exactly correct generic terms). Still a lot of money and only about the same as an AP Ford splined equivalent but its still half the ripoff price Lotus want. My guess is any clutch assembly whose main steel friction surfaces are still in good condition can be reconditioned. But chat with Techcraft they did study mine carefully before agreeing they could help. Jeff
  20. I bet the Guy in the red car (looks like a Metro?) - dual carriageway piccy, felt a bit intimidated. Hmm, Silver and black number plate? An overseas car perhaps or was it a pre 1972 Esprit? or mayeb a plate used just for show purposes on private land? How made Esprits were there on the day? and sorry I gotta also ask how many, if any, broke down? Jeff
  21. I have a V8 Esprit and a factory sports exhaust with windows that wind down. Makes Radio 4 sound shit on my
  22. I was at GTO Engineering on Tuesday and was told they have about 20 of the 5 speed upgrade kits and several 6 speed kits in stock. Supply doesn't seem an issue at present and there is a ready market beyond the Esprit as they supply stuff for GT40 kit cars and the like. Apparently there are lots of kits and other race car stuff that can utilise the UN-1 box.. So there is a ready an active market for the manufacture of the kits to continue. The GTO supplied kits are manufactured by Quaife who I understand were the manufacturers of the original Derek Bell kit. (Its Quaife who also do the ATB Limited Slip diffs.) I don't know why Derek Bell 'jumped ship' from Quaife - (his words). But my personal impression is that it wasn't a manufacturing/quality issue. I know Derek Bell had talked about some slight changes from the first batch he had made (small alterations to some sizes from knowledge gained on the first batch and a different choice of steel stock??). I don't know how the Quaife kits might compare exactly to any later specification. But then beggars can't be choosers can they... GTO tell me they have done maybe 40 boxes in the past 2 years or so without any problems (maybe 20 for Esprits). I've read threads on a GT40 club Forum and on Pistonheads that seem to provide support to these claims and I haven't read any adverse comments about GTO, there work or the Quaife kits. I'm a fussy bastard and I personally found them to be outstanding people to deal with. I'll tell you in 20,000 miles/6 years if the rebuild proves just as good! Jeff (Ps. trying to be factual here to the best of my understanding and no I'm not on commission!)
  23. All connections from battery to Starter motor (although you'd need to take the Plenum off to get at connections directly onto starter - the starter sits in the middle of the V). Or earthing to engine block. The engine might run fine but its the Starter that pulls the big amps which is when a poor earth is most likely to cause problems. I had that problem on an MG's 'A' series engine turned out it was just that the earth strap was on the gear box side of the bell chamber and not the engine block side. Twelve months of intermittent problems fixed by looking back at a load of photos I took before I rebuilt the car. Can you let the garage have it back. I'd think they might well feel obligation to investigate and identify the problem for free as they may well have caused the problem themselves. Jeff
  24. This might be a nieve question and I might be missing something, but hey I'm sure someone will set me straight. As I understand it in simple terms a Limited Slip Differential improves drive, particularly out of bends/corners as instead of the inner wheel spinning all the power away it will only allow a small difference in the driven wheels rotation thereby maintain good drive to the outside wheel which has the grip. Now, I'm thinking that If I got a little bit heavy footed with the accelerator out of a tight corner WITHOUT an LSD my inside wheel spins and that's just about all - I've wasted some petrol. With an LSD if I got a bit heavy footed out of the same corner the inside would hardly spin at all and power would be maintained across the car and I would get good drive out of the corner mainly from the outside rear wheel. Now here is the question - take the same corner in slippy poor wet conditions with the previously mentioned heavy foot. Without an LSD the inner wheel spins no real problem there. WITH an LSD and a heavy foot do I have the added risk of loosing grip on BOTH rear wheels and therefore have a slightly higher risk of a spin (or at least a scarey moment)???? I appreciate if the 'heavy foot' is way TOO heavy for teh conditions, LSD or open Diff, you risk a spin I've just got my rebuilt box back and had a Quaife LSD fitted. I'm just thinking through the effects it might have in practical day to day driving. Upside AND downside... Discuss, Thanks.. Jeff
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