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Everything posted by Mike6

  1. Agree that all the ones I have seem - mine included are on the right side. Could it have something to do with weight of driver on that side of car
  2. That cracking is a fairly common problem which I doubt has anything to do with battery weight. By moving it to the front will it not simply increase weight at that end and make the steering even heavier.
  3. Advertised in a fit of madness but withdrawn ad as decided to try once more to find problem. However when I do sell will price around that mark as dont believe in charging silly money for an engine and a load of plastic.
  4. Absolutely sure flywheel is marked correctly but will recheck the whole thing again.
  5. As sure as I can be that it has not jumped a tooth and have checked and rechecked cam timing and static ignition timing and with strobe and nothing wrong. But will check again along with cam cover removed plus the earlier suggestions. Have now pulled ad but wow did it generate interest!!
  6. Mark from Stock Coachworks called before I could pull ad. He agreed that I should next look at exhaust blockage or bent/damaged valves and then pull the carbs and send to PNM for refurb. If I do decide in the end to sell he asked me to give him a call. Sounds a really nice friendly chap. Rev limiter has been disconnected for a while now but good thought.
  7. Dave You are 100% on the button. I hate to be beaten but this is just getting me down. I have asked Bibs to pull my ad as I will cry like a baby if I sell it. I have checked cam timing over and over - its spot on. Havent yet pulled the cam covers to see if anying is amiss but along the blocked exhaust will give these a try although exhaust check will not be a 10 minute job.
  8. Not yet had time to check fuel. I know where you are coming from with restricted exhaust, its not that old, is stainless steel with no cat etc and outwardly looks fine. Not sure how to check the internals easily but can strip down and ask kwikfit to check when I get back from hols if you think that the best next step Thanks for all the help.
  9. Not checked fuel yet a bit busy at the mo . Exhaust looks ok, its not old, is stainless steel doesnt have the cat etc so am not sure how to check how it is internally other than stripping down which isnt an easy task. I can see where you are coming from though so can do this when I get back from hols if you think it the next step. Really appreciate all the help I am getting
  10. No as I needed to undo hose at turbo to carry out the timing checks yesterday and then forgot to reconnect and it made no difference to problem
  11. Just to recap as I agree that this is getting pathetic. Car was running fine when I put her in the garage for a few weeks to change the front end rad hoses and then when I took her out on the road I fluffed a gear change at about 3000rpm and went into 2nd gear. Car let out an almighty backfire sound which seemed to come from engine rather than exhaust. I lost all power and car juddered back home basically on tickover refusing to accelerate. I fluffed around trying to find what was wrong including cleaning the carb jets and checking timing but just couldnt solve it. Car would start and tickover and gently revved ok but as soon as it hit the road it just died on accelaration, backfired and got me back with minimal revs. I called in an autoelectrian who spent hours remaking electrical joints and testing voltages etc. The only thing he could think of was the dissy itself under load I had previously had a problem with the dissy pickup and had replaced it with new part from SJ Sportscars. I spoke with Pete at PNM and he said there were a lot of dodgy pickups about and that he could recon everything. So I sent him the dizzy for a full recon. I also purchased from him new rotor cap, arm, leads and plugs although there didnt appear anything wrong with the old ones - only about a year old. It was during reassemply I discovered autoelectrician must have reversed joints going to AB14. Since then I have been trying all the helpful suggestions including the one about disconnecting vacuum pipes from dissy and checking timing marks with strobe at about 3500rpm. It was only yesterday that I discovered that when revs approach this that engine starts hesitating and dropping revs and backfiring. Turbo hose is not that good but hasnt collapsed. Timing light still flashes at these revs on bore 1 but havent tried on other plugs (will give that a go). I would welcome anyone having a look for me and will lay on food etc if there are any takers. i
  12. Yep will sell unless I can fix her - a matter of cutting my loses, but will not offer her beyond this forum.
  13. Ian There are only a few markings on the flywheel so no way to get any reading in degrees but it went past these fairly quickly by a fair amount - I would guess 40 degrees btdc.
  14. Fuel - filled up last time car on road in April Jets - took them all apart and used wire brush strand as recommended by Dave at SJ sportscars so all clean when put back - they were a bit dirty Timing - Andy with advance/retard blocked off on vacuum pipes ran engine until hot and than moved revs up to 3500rpm. Timing marks on flywheel via strobe moved to right as viewed so progressively moving more btdc than before. Is this correct Tickover rock steady not missing a beat but as throttle moves up to 3500 rpm engine not happy at all and started backfiring and stumbling but as soon as throttle released back to nice smooth tickover. Nothing to loose so imagine next step is to remove cam covers and see if there is any evidence of problems there.
  15. Since its disconnected I will recheck timing at higher speed. Since I go on hols in a couple of days is there any mileage in putting redex directly into the float chambers to remove any crud (jets have been cleaned) and then giving the engine a blast though when I get back.
  16. Think I have just lost confidence in this car which is why it is taking so long to fix. Over the years I have done a huge number of jobs on the car all of which have involved a lot of contortion and age has simply caught up with me. Yes I am stubborn and dont like the idea of handing my car to someone else particularly as I dont know anyone trustworthy enough near me - I have seen jobs so called professionals have done!. Fannying around is probably a good description but I have sought advice from PNM and had an autoelectrician in. It is probably something simple like blocked carbs but I lack the enthusiasm to tackle this although I did buy an overhaul kit recently. Even with the car running when you have lost confidence it is time to call it a day, so I will be putting it up for sale shortly. Thanks for all the advice.
  17. Tried Andys idea of disconnecting the vacuum advance and retard pipes and plugging them. Car started first time, revved nicely and ticked over rock steady. Let it warm up checked timing was spot on and took it out on the road. Zilch, as soon as you try and pull away the revs die to nothing but tickover prevents a stall and I limp back with virtually no throttle. Not sure about checking for a sticking valve as stationary you can rev the nuts out of the car and no strange noises. Also, if it was a carb problem wouldnt it show up revving the car above 3000rpm at rest. Rechecked the front end where I replaced the hoses and nothing there that might be affected by leaked water. To recap car was running fine before changing front hoses but I did fluff a gearchange after which the problem started - what could possibly have broken under load in these circumstances?. Dicount dissy,cap, rotor arm, plugs and leads plus fuel pump, filter and regulator as these have all been renewed.
  18. Andy/Barry Thanks for ideas I will try next week when I have time Andy I have both advance and retard on my dissy. Do I disconnect both and plug (to prevent loss of vacuum), then run engine up to normal temperature and check timing is still correct at 10 degrees btdc. The arrangement on my car is different to yours. Presumably with engine warmed up a run around the block will prove whether that is the problem with both pipes disconnected. Barry When I have tried above checking whether valve is sticking open sounds a good idea. I will take top off cam cover and see whether the bucket tappets move correctly
  19. Hi Barry Its got new filter, pump, all fuel lines and new regulator and i have re checked fuel pressure. Also if you disconnect a fuel line and turn engine a lovely strong gush of petrol shoots out. So blockage somewhere in the carb could be the answer. But why would it be possible to rev the nuts out of it on the drive but not even pull away on the road.
  20. Thats me out of ideas. Car starts, ticks over and revs nicely but as soon as its on the road and it pulls away revs die and she backfires and refuses to accelerate but still ticks over. All that effort etc and shes doing exactly the same, must admit I had a lot of hope in the overhauled dissy as it must be a load issue which points to electrics. Wife is now saying phone the scrap yard and cut my loses. BUT, just wondering if it could be carb related, although I have cleaned all the jets and set the float heights. Could it be accelerator pumps but dont these kick in above 3000rpm??????. or something else
  21. Swopped wires back over and yes it did revert back to problem. However that would not have been the cause of the original problem as autoelectrician did that just before he gave up on it and I stripped out the dissy for PNM to overhaul. Really nervous about putting the car on the tarmac as I only just made it home last time - will take it out in an hour or two when the traffic calms down. Wish me luck - first drive in several months.
  22. I would imagine its the signal from the dizzy pick up to the coil via the amplifier. Being reversed It must have confused everything which in turn affected the reading being given out via the strobe. Anyway it was the only thing I changed as the original set up was spot on statically. I have now got it back together and it runs fine with the timing all lining up and dizzy back to its original post rebuild position. Thanks for your help Sparky.
  23. That was it, the autoelectrician had reversed the wires from the dizzy to the amplifier - although the connectors are different sizes. Temporarily reversed the wires and car fired first time revved nicely and timing marks all line up. Therefore not my fault. Will now tidy everything up and see whether it has resolved my original problem.
  24. Just a thought but when the autoelectrician was here he remade a lot of the connections with new connectors etc and I am wondering if he reversed the two leads going from the dissy to the amplifier what effect that would have on taking a strobe reading. If I temporarily reverse these leads at the amplifier might it have any dire consequences
  25. Need putting out of my misery. Put distributor back to its pre rebuild position, removed spark plug 1 and rotated engine so that piston 1 was at top of its stroke. Then checked that cam dots lined up including checking inlet and exhaust markings. Then checked that tdc on flywheel and pointer lined up and moved car ingear a fraction so that pointer lined up with 10 degree btdc marker. Removed distributor cap and checked that rotor arm was pointing to plug lead 1 which it was and that the reluctor lined up exactly with the pick up which it did. So static set up must be correct???. If so why does engine sound like a dog and die when you try and rev it and strobe light doesnt even pick up on the 10 degree mark - suggesting that timing is way out which it sounds like. Even wondering if plug leads are on correctly but looking at dissy cap its 1,3,4,2 going anti clockwise.
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