sailorbob

Dave has summed it up pretty well. Looking at the new lead work it is typical of how you will often see chimney flashings; see page 33 of this lead flashing guide and, in particular, the bossed apron, side flashing and bossed back gutter. https://www.associatedlead.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Guide-to-Rolled-Lead.pdf The main question for me would be how far is the back gutter lapped under the tiles as this cannot be determined from the photographs. From the internal photograph the back gutter doesn't appear to have proper support as the timber boarding looks rotten / missing. As has been said above, the condition of the rafters needs investigating and the sarking felt is perishing too. It is a pity that the neighbour or roofer didn't approach your sister and explain what was going to be done and ask if she wanted her side done too as her flashings do not look to be in good condition and the side flashing looks like it may have been covered with 'flashband' or something similar (it's hard to tell).

The judge sounds like a right dick to me. I do not know what the sentencing guidelines were at the time of the conviction but the consultation guidelines certainly suggest a custodial sentence is not an automatic result of a conviction. https://www.sentencingcouncil.org.uk/offences/magistrates-court/item/causing-serious-injury-by-dangerous-driving-for-consultation-only/

The originals are GI PA75 N85S, probably an in house GM reference. The Fairchild FQP20N06L is also quoted as a replacement.

It could be caused by several things so looking at the live data is the best way to start diagnosing it.

If the BUZ 10 S2 transistors are burning out then two things come to mind; are they genuine Siemens or is there another fault in the headlight module causing the failure?

Is the cam carrier truly beyond repair? White metalling / cold metal spraying and machining can save many parts that would normally get scrapped.

Not a lot to add about the creaking and pretty much as already said. Disconnecting the upper wishbone arms from the upper ball joint lets you check the upper ball joint and inner bushes very easily. You can also check the lower ball joint too. Checking the lower arm inner bushes is harder because of the anti-roll bar but removing the anti-roll bar to chassis clamps makes it easier and allows the bar bushes to be checked. The chassis clamps are easy to do on a ramp but avoid doing one side at a time because the twist on the bar makes it harder to align the clamps.

The 35-39 Nm value is for the socket headed bolts, the hex headed bolts are 22-25 Nm. Sorry to poo poo your purchase but those PNM bolts will rust at the merest hint of moisture. In exposed conditions YZP or zinc flake is desirable.

If the clutch itself has engaged then it is possibly a master cylinder seal that has gone. Check the position of the bearing release arm when this happens.

There is no problem in having all the shim plates on one side of the ball joint. It is the inboard side where you need to watch any shim washer adjustments as a minimum of 5 mm clearance between the top wishbone and the chassis is required.

A Dremel with a flexible shaft attachment has gotten me out of the mire with similar access constraints before. The studs will inevitably get sacrificed though.

Probably the cast iron cam followers were cracked and let go. It's probably worth replacing them all with steel ones for peace of mind.

Are the VSS holes omitted only from the LHS carrier?

That's waaaay too lean; burnt exhaust valves comes to mind. I once had the FPR fail on my MR2, it took a long time for the turbo to stop glowing bright red.

I'm not advocating leaving it de-catted, just not damaging a new one before finding the reason for the fuelling being so far off.