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Everything posted by sailorbob

  1. For the KH EBC 430 see this post: For the KH EBC 415 look two posts above it.
  2. Dave has summed it up pretty well. Looking at the new lead work it is typical of how you will often see chimney flashings; see page 33 of this lead flashing guide and, in particular, the bossed apron, side flashing and bossed back gutter. The main question for me would be how far is the back gutter lapped under the tiles as this cannot be determined from the photographs. From the internal photograph the back gutter doesn't appear to have proper support as the timber boarding looks rotten / missing. As has been said above, the condition of the rafters needs investigating and the sarking felt is perishing too. It is a pity that the neighbour or roofer didn't approach your sister and explain what was going to be done and ask if she wanted her side done too as her flashings do not look to be in good condition and the side flashing looks like it may have been covered with 'flashband' or something similar (it's hard to tell).
  3. The judge sounds like a right dick to me. I do not know what the sentencing guidelines were at the time of the conviction but the consultation guidelines certainly suggest a custodial sentence is not an automatic result of a conviction.
  4. The originals are GI PA75 N85S, probably an in house GM reference. The Fairchild FQP20N06L is also quoted as a replacement.
  5. It could be caused by several things so looking at the live data is the best way to start diagnosing it.
  6. If the BUZ 10 S2 transistors are burning out then two things come to mind; are they genuine Siemens or is there another fault in the headlight module causing the failure?
  7. Is the cam carrier truly beyond repair? White metalling / cold metal spraying and machining can save many parts that would normally get scrapped.
  8. Not a lot to add about the creaking and pretty much as already said. Disconnecting the upper wishbone arms from the upper ball joint lets you check the upper ball joint and inner bushes very easily. You can also check the lower ball joint too. Checking the lower arm inner bushes is harder because of the anti-roll bar but removing the anti-roll bar to chassis clamps makes it easier and allows the bar bushes to be checked. The chassis clamps are easy to do on a ramp but avoid doing one side at a time because the twist on the bar makes it harder to align the clamps.
  9. The 35-39 Nm value is for the socket headed bolts, the hex headed bolts are 22-25 Nm. Sorry to poo poo your purchase but those PNM bolts will rust at the merest hint of moisture. In exposed conditions YZP or zinc flake is desirable.
  10. If the clutch itself has engaged then it is possibly a master cylinder seal that has gone. Check the position of the bearing release arm when this happens.
  11. There is no problem in having all the shim plates on one side of the ball joint. It is the inboard side where you need to watch any shim washer adjustments as a minimum of 5 mm clearance between the top wishbone and the chassis is required.
  12. A Dremel with a flexible shaft attachment has gotten me out of the mire with similar access constraints before. The studs will inevitably get sacrificed though.
  13. Probably the cast iron cam followers were cracked and let go. It's probably worth replacing them all with steel ones for peace of mind.
  14. That's waaaay too lean; burnt exhaust valves comes to mind. I once had the FPR fail on my MR2, it took a long time for the turbo to stop glowing bright red.
  15. I'm not advocating leaving it de-catted, just not damaging a new one before finding the reason for the fuelling being so far off.
  16. I would not put a new catalytic convertor and lambda sensor on until the emissions results are close to reasonable for a non-cat vehicle. Remove the chip and see the effect of that first. The number plate light is still available but silly money at almost £50.
  17. The A132J0001S pads are marked PF6600X55XX-DS25HP if that helps. The pad material is slightly different to the DS2500 compound.
  18. Ian, the ribs of both the lower and upper lugs are thinner than the OE casting and are not tapered so they do not thicken closer to the body. Without some high mileage road testing or finite element analysis of the stresses to see if these thinner ribs are equal or stronger than the OE casting I personally would not want to risk using them on my vehicle.
  19. As Mike has kindly offered to coordinate any comments it is probably best to let him disclose them in this thread (if he wants to).
  20. Yes, when comparing the CAD file to a hub carrier there are unfortunately some concerning discrepancies. Rather than clutter this thread with items spotted is there an alternative way to compile and coordinate this?
  21. Thanks for posting the files. One item stands out, the tap drill size for the bearing mounting M7 x 1.0 mm thread is shown as 6.1 mm but for aluminium the general rule is to subtract the pitch from the diameter of the thread, i.e. it should be a 6.0 mm hole.
  22. Will the uprights be 6061-T6? If they are just the annealed 6061 grade then they may be quite a bit less strong than the OE uprights if they are cast in something like LM25TF alloy.
  23. This is what the inside of one of the runners looks like on the first batch made:
  24. You are giving conflicting information about the problem; in your first post you said there was no fuel but now you are saying there is fuel but there is insufficient fuel delivery and this is causing a lean condition. It is almost unheard of for an injector driver to partially fail so, if it were me, I would check the fuel pressure next.
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