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sailorbob

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Everything posted by sailorbob

  1. I was wrong about both Cardone ECU's being DOA, only the second one was but the first one lasted less than 100 miles.
  2. Where did you get the replacement ECU from? Another forum member bought two Cardone 're-manufactured' ECU's that were DOA.
  3. Generally 4 AWG cable with a good insulator is rated at 170 amps so it's potentially undersized if the electrical demand comes close the alternators maximum output.
  4. What gauge wiring has been used for the alternator?
  5. Some of the 'specification' values in that print out are not correct (be aware there are two different values for the front geometry on the '88 - '92 vehicles). Before attempting to get it re-aligned I would check that the shims are correctly installed first, it is very common to find the number fitted or position is incorrect.
  6. Nice work but to avoid confusion I suggest you add the suffix 'A' to the sheet numbers and change the 'MY94' to 'MY95'.
  7. Presumably you mean a Tech 1A because of the 26 pins? The 2nd post in this thread gives some of them. https://pcmhacking.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=5323
  8. Is it the Torques Products Ltd. adapter that you've bought? If so I'd be interested to know how you find it as I've be curious about how it seals since they first came out. I'm surprised they don't make a barbed banjo too, maybe no one has asked them for one
  9. I have a note that the bearing housing coolant ports are a 3/8" - 18 NPT thread size.
  10. The Goodyear and the Michelin generally score higher in the tyre tests than the Dunlop. I regularly drive a car with the Michelins and find them good in both wet and dry. I haven't tried the '5' version of the Goodyear but have been happy with earlier versions of the Eagle F1.
  11. Last night I had a look at the mounting plinths that came with my GT3 seats and all four are different, they comprises 2 types that are handed. I'm guessing it's due to the seatbelts.
  12. The GT3 RH mounting plinth has the same part number as the S300 RH plinth (P6911301006AF) but the LH plinth part numbers are different (S300 - P6911301005AF, GT3 - P6911301008AF). No idea what the difference is.
  13. The FAE 33370 reputedly cross references to the Bosch 0 280 130 026 Temperature [°C] Resistance Ω [Ohm] -40 45,313 -30 26,114 -20 15,462 -10 9,397 0 5,896 10 3,792 20 2,500 (+/- 5%) 30 1,707 40 1,175 50 834 60 596 70 436 80 323 90 243 100 187 110 144 120 113 130 89
  14. The window problem could be the nylon slide guides, they can break. https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and-accessories/SJ082M0031.htm
  15. I'm guessing TEC went out of business as their website isn't available any more: www.turboengineering.com
  16. I think there was a TSB for a revised latch (part number B082U7149F) to help prevent this issue but I cannot recall it's number or when it came in.
  17. For that kind of money it's a shame it's not got the original cylinder head and, unless they been replaced, a few other non original parts.
  18. Just a guess but a couple of thoughts are: The door lock motor may not be moving far enough to engage the door lock. Possibly due to wear, lack of current etc. The door lock mechanism may be stiff and resisting the movement of the door lock motor.
  19. No experience of any of those but I use a Mahle KL158 on mine.
  20. Yes, you are correct, I forgot about the changeover relay on these circuits.
  21. Removing the solenoid will cause error code 26 because the quad driver will see this as an open circuit fault.
  22. An important thing to note is that the only type of lubricant that should be used to help install the bushes is a short term lubricant such as P-80 Rubber Lubricant Emulsion that does not revert back to being a lubricant when it gets wet. This is to prevent the bushes rotating in their housings when the vehicle is being driven.
  23. The solenoid key assignments in the ABS screen mode (press 'g' key to select the ABS screen) are: lf=left front rf=right front 1: lf hold on 2: rf hold on 3: rear hold on 4: lf release on 5: rf release on 6: rear release on 0: de-active current solenoid ! (shift 1): lf hold and release on @ (shift 2): rf hold and release on # (shift 3): rear hold and release on On the graphics screen you should see the status of the feedback from the solenoids change after a key is pressed. You should also hear the clicks. Do not keep a solenoid active too long so press the 0 key in good time to de-activate the solenoid(s).
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