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mjims

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  • Name
    Jim Swift
  • Car
    '98 V8 SE
  1. Running fine for a few minutes on tickover and then going "off", would suggest, faulty Lambda sensor. When the engine starts, the lambda's are in "open loop" and the ECU runs a preset map, after a minute or so, the Lambda sensors have heated up and the system should siwtch to "closed loop" and the lambda readings have a direct bearing on how much fuel the ECU runs, independantly to each bank, which can make it run erratic on one bank. This would also have a big effect on the general running fo the engine upto 45% TPS. If you have an ODB reader, plug it in and watch closely what is happening with all four lambda sensors and do a search on all the great threads on here for understanding how the Lambda's work.
  2. Thanks for the responces. You;ve all convinced me that for safety the thermostat should stay. So, new one fitted and cooling system agressively flushed, re-filled and carefully bled.
  3. Finally got a resolution to this problem, I recently replaced, all spark plugs, HT leads (for magnecor), coil packs, injectors and lambda sensors Overkill maybe but it now fires, cleanly and promptly everytime and tickover and general running is measurably improved. Its difficult to determine what the issue was but I would suspect leaky and un-balanced injectors.
  4. Loss of water, would indicate a leak somewhere, and a split hose (if thats what it is) may not leak without pressure. check all pipes and connections, for signs of wetness and coolant loss, especially where the rubber pipes join the aluminum pipes, as the aluminum corrodes/oxidsises and allows the joints to leak. Let the system pressurise at tickover speed whilst you are watching over the car, right up to 100+ deg when the fans should kick in and any leaks would be obvious to see. Over heating may also not be down to loss of coolant, be sure to also check all the all connections into the header tank for blockage, they are susceptable to corrosion and clog up with rust, blocking the flow. Take the pipes of and look down into the tank to check its clear. Also; you can smell leaking coolant, it has a sweet sickly smell. keep watching the coolant level in the header tank to see if its going down. best of luck
  5. Hi Guys, I currently have the plenum off for some routine maintenance; new plugs, leads, coilpacks etc. and whilst the plenum is off, I cannot deside whether to to simply replace the Thermostat or perform the "Gutting" proceedure as noted in various other threads. I've not had any problems with overheating and the engine runs fine, but personally hate the way that the engine runs up to 110Deg before the fans kick in and its general temp when in traffic always feels like a cause for concern. This high temp constantly makes me nervous when driving in built up areas and I'm suprised that the fans dont trip on and off at more "Normal" 90Deg back to 80Deg and I would personally like it to run at 80Deg all the time. So; according to other threads, rumor would have it, that if you gut the thermostat, the car runs at 70-80 all the time. Has anyone done this mod, that can confirm if its true or not? I'm in the UK and although I use the old girl as a daily driver, she is not used in the winter, so I cant see warm up times being too much trouble What's your thoughts, YES or NO?
  6. BUMP: Wondering if anyone has some more recent info on cross reference details for fuel pumps. I've just got back from a long fast run and my primary fuel pump is making a loud drone'ing noise. In true british money saving thinking; rather than just replacing the pump for new, is it feasable to just swap electrical connectors of the fuel pumps? My understanding of the dual fuel pumps is that the second pump is only used for max power and therefore not used as much and as such the primary pump (if overheating) will not be used as much and should be ok for some time? Cheers
  7. Yes, on reflection its more like 3-4 seconds, and absolutely lifeless as if the ECU is not triggered and holds the starting of the car by design for so long. I generally wait until the Fuel pumps have primed and then start it and yes, sometimes (although not often) it fires quicker and once it fired immediately, which is what makes me think if it can do it once, why not everytime. I didnt know it maybe it was a symptom of leaky injectrors or worn plugs and leads. Thanks for the replies, I guess I'll just have to live with it. at least I know I',m not alone
  8. Hi Guys, new to the lotus forum, with a recent addition to the family, a '99 V8 SE. She runs fine, but always takes over 5 seconds on the starter before she fires up. its persitantly the same, hot or cold. As soon as she catches it runs perfectly. its very annoying and a little embarassing when people are watching with the starter motor clattering away for ages. I wondered if anyone had any ideas as to what could be the problem and how best to fix it. Cheers Jim
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