Bruss

Do you need to replace the clutch? I'm not convinced from your description that that is the problem. Is it possible to remove the slave cylinder and bleed it while holding it above the level of the master cylinder? or is it possible to jack the car up to allow the slave to sit higher than the master? If you do decide that the clutch needs replacing then I'd look at the evora 400 parts including the flywheel and counter balance arrangement. While all the faff and expense of removing the gearbox is taking place, then the premium on the 400 parts is minimal and will give you a better drive.

It can only be air in the system somehow. Don't panic! At this stage I'd get it to a Lotus specialist to sort it. From yours I'd give ES motorsports a call. You may have someone nearer but I haven't used anyone in Cambs.

Lol I was almost with you, until the last impertinence. The plus 2 is my second most favourite Lotus, after the Evora! Or is it the third, after the 2-11 and then the Evora or perhaps the fourth after the Elite, the 2-11, the Evora ----

As an inveterate meddler, sorry experienced tuner, of all things Lotus I agree on only one thing said re values. I have always, always sold my modified cars at the same price as similar unmodified cars, often with a small premium. I have NEVER got back my 'investment'' though except in terms of fun and smiles while owning the car. There are two types of modified car, those for the road and those for the track. Saj's old car was modified for the road, done well, and serviced as it should be. I would have no hesitation in buying that car, subject to the normal inspection for current condition. It is a very well sorted Evora. I suspect the the difficulty in selling is more related to the current situation than anything else. The Evora is a specialist buy, edging on being a second, third, or weekend play car. That's not an easy sell at the best of times, and these 'aint the best of times. As an indicator I have just tried selling a Nissan Micra valued at 6k. No dealer is buying stock and I haven't had an offer even at 4k. It will sit in a garage now for 6 months and I will try again. If you can afford to keep the Evora for 6 mths plus ( even better for a year) I would.

Lovely. Great move.

WARNING Do not attempt to bleed the clutch hydraulic system when the catalytic converter is hot - spilled hydraulic fluid could initiate a fire. Wait until the engine and converter is cool to the touch. To replace the slave cylinder To remove: Remove the rear undertray (see sub-section a - introduction for details). - - - From underneath the vehicle, disconnect the clutch pipe union and immediately seal the open end of the - pipe and the cylinder port. Release the two fixing bolts and withdraw the cylinder. - - Take all necessary precautions to guard against contamination of painted surfaces with brake fluid. - - To refit/replace: Is the reversal of removal. - - Refit the the two M8 bolts securing the slave cylinder to the bell housing, torque to 12 Nm. - - Re-connect the clutch pipe union to the cylinder, torque to 15 Nm.- - Bleed the system of air, tightening the bleed nipple to 5 Nm.- - Finally, ensure that the heat shield is returned to its original shape in order adequately to protect the slave - - cylinder and hydraulic line. Hydraulic Pipe A 2-part rigid steel pipe is used to convey the hydraulic fluid from the master cylinder to the left hand front corner of the engine bay. The pipe is routed down the LH 'A' post to run along the outside of the chassis LH main siderail, within the composite sill member, and is supported, together with other pipes and hoses in foam blocks. Another pipe is used to connect the rear end of the chassis pipe to an NVH clutch damper mounted on the transmission. A short rigid pipe then connects the damper to the slave cylinder. The clutch damper was introduced as a running change and contains a flexible diaphragm to damp out pressure pulsations in the line caused by frequencies generated by crankshaft that are isolated from rest of chassis via engine mounts etc, but when the clutch pedal depressed the frequency travels through the clutch cover, release bearing, slave cylinder and through the fluid line up to the clutch pedal. These pulsations give the symptoms of a ‘roaring’ noise and vibration which can be felt through the clutch pedal when it is depressed at high revs, typically 5000 rpm. ‘12 MY vehicles from VIN CH_10179 have been fitted with additional protective heat wrapping positioned around the clutch slave cylinder pipe to provide insulation from potential excessive engine bay temperatures. The brake fluid contained within the clutch pipe may exceed its maximum working temperature especially if the vehicle is subjected to either extreme ambient temperatures and/or regular continuous high speed driving. Vehicles subjected to these conditions have experienced difficultly in engaging or changing gear combined with other symptoms such as very little or no resistance required to depress the clutch pedal or the clutch pedal has failing to return to its original position when released, Also see Technical Service Bulletin TSB 2011/29 for further details.

If there are cables coming out of the seat what else would they be for? I'd guess two cables suggest two heating elements. The seat belt cable on my 2011 manufactured car is on the seat belt mount itself, not on the seat.

Bugger! Back to steps taken so far. Clutch was replaced with pressure plate and centre plate? Both slave and master now replaced or seals replaced? Air bled out with a pressure bleeder? Are there still air bubbles, after bleeding, leaving for 30 mins and bleeding again? if no bubbles you now need an assistant. One pushes the cluth pedal, the other looks for movement in the pipes flexing and for movement of the operating arm coming out of the slave. After that I'm lost. The pressure plate has to see enough movement to allow the centre plate to be released. If the movement isn't enough then its usually air compressing in the system rather than the fluid moving and pushing the rod. If the rod is moving enough then the problem is within the clutch housing.

Useful info from our friends on the USA site. Valve cores can leak apparently on the refill valves. Kit available to change them in situ with little loss of refrigerant.

Its possible. If the slave has developed a 'ridge' where the seal was sitting previously and then the new clutch has changed the 'resting' point of the seal then its possible that the seal is no longer seating properly. It happens on older cars that have been sitting unused. It may be that. If you bleed the system and then the reverse and first gear work without any creeping, but later after some time then develops creeping, the air is leaking in somewhere. If it creeps immediately after the clutch has been bled, then the air has not been removed.

It could be that a seal has gone and air is leaking in gradually, or it could be that air is trapped and you need a pressure bleeder.

It can't be anything other than a draqging clutch. If it works sometimes but not others the it is air trapped in the system. Put your foot on the clutch and it moves the lever to release the clutch plate. Keep your foot down and air gradually allows the lever to move back a little.

Yes it will slide out, but it can catch on the surround with various sticky out bits. It needs a touch of force and a bit of careful finagling.

Charade, where the walls seem to be a little too close for comfort.

If you do find someone Tom let me know. I have a spare set of wheels that I'd like to out back to standard S. The ribs are a gunmetal grey/silver of some sort as I recall with the diamond cut on the faces. I asked a couple of places in the UK but haven't found anyone yet who will take it on. Re the S . Mine came with 19/20's but the diamond cut were the optional bit.