andyblackman777

Haha maybe Mike. I thought you would say rebuild upgrade and replace my stock one!

Looks like the pins set the position, the clamps lock it there and the spanner is to leaver against. If you don’t lock the cam the setting pin could be sheared when tightening. I can’t see why you can’t just do one at a time ? Or 2 (one head). I’m sure someone who actually knows the answer will let you know

Hi all, I have a complete engine that I acquired about 15 years ago. It’s sat on a stand in my garage. I’ve no idea if it runs. I did a compression test with a cheap gauge I borrowed. The compressions were low and varied a bit 80-100. On adding some oil to the bores 150psi++. (The gauge is not to be trusted the owner is convinced it under reads 20% odd). So I’m assuming the engine is complete internally and works with the cylinders sealing somewhat with the addition of oil What should I do with it? I could just leave it, I may never need it. I could rebuild it as a project.(a bit costly and unnecessary at the moment) Or strip it and clean/check all the parts and store them properly Just looking for ideas/opinions Cheers Andy

I did the same as metro. Except I kept the extra earths bolted them to the frame. They do nothing with the spals. Just in case I revert to the old fans......... On a side note. The wires are fused at 15 amp so are good for the extra current draw on start. I was also thinking of changing to waterproof connectors

You can get some combined gauges. I.e. oil temp and pressure on the same gauge.

Cheers Mike. It’s nice that it was something simple. The nagging misfire was getting me down. Interesting to note that both the remedies in this thread were basic items.

So I took the exhaust off and the cats are intact. Next I removed the spark plugs on the right bank. Number 2 was all wet the others were good. I then reinstalled them to run the engine and check for a spark on number 2. All sparking well. Removing the lead for number 2 made no difference to the running so number 2 is the problem cylinder. I swapped 2&3 spark plugs and the symptom moved to 3. I had some old plugs so I put one of those in and it runs perfectly. Went for a spin and no misfires at all. Faulty Spark plug. Result . New plugs ordered. I guess the flooding of the engine and ultra rich running with the injector o-ring leaking must have finished off the plug. I’m amazed it was just that I was fearing something more sinister.

Thanks guys. I removed the secondary injectors to check the o-rings, all seemed fine so I refitted them. The engine then would not start, I eventually got it going and it was massively over fuelled, lots of white exhaust smoke, smell of petrol and the plenum was very cold. Obviously massive leak from Secondary injector o-rings. Lesson learned! Got some new o-rings. Car started ok but still smokey. Went for a drive and it cleared itself of smoke etc, but still misfiring. Went for a second drive permant misfire now, sometimes coughs then runs ok for a bit, constant misfire underload. Bearing in mind that the car ran almost perfectly before (apart from the very occasional mis at WOT). This seems a tad odd to me. I'm wondering what could have got damaged by flooding the engine?? No CEL. Hmm.... Thanks Andy Just thought maybe the cats have disintegrated with loads of fuel going through them. 100 cel cats from PNM

You can buy short lengths ‘ couplers’ to use for the missing pipes I got mine from viper performance.com

Thanks Mike, I misunderstood the function of that then! Its Erratic not continuous just misses the odd time and only under high load. doesn't always do it.

So I've finally got my car back together and running. Guess what? Misfires! The engine runs very smoothly most of the time and idles perfectly, no hot start issues. Only under high load it misses. ie 3rd gear up hill 3500rpm wide open throttle. Only occasionally. all other times its perfect. 3/4 throttle to the redline perfect. Its not got wet for over 10 years garaged etc. After reading this thread again, I'm thinking it maybe the secondary fuel pump or similar?? Any thoughts before I start work? Cheers Andy ps no fault codes or CEL

Be careful of the plenum bolts they strip easily. Well mine did, unless they were damaged by the previous owner. I know the engine had been rebuilt. I ended up fitting helicoils in most of the threads. Not a difficult job.

Just cut off the leaky fitting and put a replacement on. This is the thread https://www.lotustalk.com/threads/oil-line-fitting-dissection-measurements-and-repair-with-pictures.99266/ I did this at the oil cooler end.

Chilly. I’ve done the relay mod already

I had a leaky fitting to one of the oil coolers. I replaced it with a new one. £10 from Merlin motorsport. Its designed just as a push on fitting. I put a couple of jubilee clips on, its very secure and doesn't leak. there is a thread about doing this. https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/90-degree-firtree-union-5-8bsp-hefp93-10 They do a different one which is less barbed for only £5 I then discovered the other end is leaking at the oil filter plate. Hmm should've just replace both hoses when it was all apart. Anyway the crimp section was leaking and I heard you can get these re-crimped. Not possible on the car, I wondered how much force you would need to crimp it enough to stop the leak. Which is pretty small. So Bodge of the week, I put a good quality jubilee clip around the crimp and tightened it as much as I could. Its stopped leaking! for how long I don't know. if it last till the next oil change i'll change the hose or fitting then.