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andyblackman777

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About andyblackman777

  • Birthday 28/05/1968

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  • Name
    Andy
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    Esprit V8,
  • Location
    UK Berkshire

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  1. Thanks Guys. The hard line is in good condition so I think I"ll leave it, As Steve says the braided hose is just plastic with braid on the outside. originally when I saw the red hose from the master cylinder I assumed it was longer than 300mm!! Hence my purchase of the braided line some years ago now.
  2. I have a full length braided clutch hose from SJ. I am in a position now to install it. I was wondering whether to run it through the chassis where the oil and water pipes go, as opposed to externally under the body. The other option would be just to replace the short plastic section from the master cylinder. There is about 300mm of red hose then hardline all the way to the back. I could get a custom braided hose just to replace this, I'm thinking that would be a better option. Thoughts? Cheers Andy Ps I'm changing the oil lines and have the engine out so have good access.
  3. Hi, Has any one tried water meth injection to keep the charge temps down??
  4. Yes I did wonder if it was due to lack of use. Or the Gauge......
  5. Erick That's what I thought could be the problem but alas it wasn't. first thing I checked. easy job with the engine out. tolerance pins fitted with the crank Locked against the marked vane. Also if this was the case the air would be escaping from the valves on the leak down test.
  6. Yes wide open throttle. I did both, while it was in the car, all between 100 and 120 best. the hot ones were not much different. Odd now they seem better when its out of the car and stone cold. I assumed it was maybe on the way out and only did the leak down to see where the air was leaking from. When the leak down didn't seem to bad I though id re check the compression and it was 20 % higher on all cylinders.
  7. Hi all , I'm after a bit of advice, I've pulled the engine out of my car to do some work which requires its removal. The engine runs perfectly. Before I did this I ran a compression check which showed all cylinders evenly low, which is bad. Now the engine is removed I performed a leak down test this shows on between 5-10 percent leakage on all cylinders, which is good/ok. I then performed another compression check now I'm getting 125 on all 4 on the left bank and 130 on 3 and 140 on the remaining cylinder on the right bank. Should be 150 +/- 10 % Now I'm in two minds as what to do. leave it or rebuild it. Bear in mind I have another engine stripped that I was going to rebuild and swap with the current engine. Plus is 3-4k just on bolts, gaskets and bearings if nothing needs replacing! Im tempted to do what I originally planned and put this motor back in the car. Hmm Thoughts Cheers Andy
  8. So I had the information all along........ I'd forgotten that the service notes have some specifications at the very beginning. - piston/liner clearance 0.010 - 0.039 mm (0.0004 - 0.0015 in) Sounds tight but I guess that is correct. Thoughts??
  9. Mine was doing that and it was ok at first showed good charge etc but then eventually started to misfire. changed alternator all fixed. failing that could be a bad earth somewhere??
  10. New liners and pistons would be the way to go. If there was no oval I would probably just run a glaze breaker through and assemble with new rings. I only need stock pistons so it would be nice to know what the clearances should be before assembly. The service notes only have the range of sizes the components should be not a specific clearance .
  11. Im away from home so don't have all the specs with me. average clearance around .002" - .0025" . Around half of the liners are oval with the clearance going out another .0005" on the thrust axis. All the pistons measure very slightly undersize. The clearance sounds about right to me for a cast piston, however the oval is another issue.
  12. Hi, I posted in the thread below but got no answers. does anyone know the stock piston to bore clearance. I have the service notes but can only see the acceptable bore size and piston size. this could possibly result in what I think to be a very tight clearance. Would be nice to know what’s should be before reassembly obviously aftermarket pistons will state the required clearances Thanks Andy
  13. Really enjoying your posts. I recently installed this and the quaife diff. My only issue was the snap ring/circlip that goes on the end of the shaft (clutch end ). As the shaft is thicker the original won’t fit and I could not find one of the correct size anywhere. Thickness was the issue. I ended up re using the old one after making it larger, not ideal. Very happy with the result though. Andy.
  14. Chris , I’m back into the idea of intercooling now so happy to help out getting this going if possible. I was thinking that maybe if they did have the drawings some cash might help them come our way.🤔. Mind you how trusting are we that they would provide the correct information. cheers Andy. cheers Andy.
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