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About andyblackman777

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  • Birthday 28/05/1968

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    Esprit V8,
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    UK Berkshire

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  1. So I finally got these fitted seems to work well. Holds boost in 3rd gear roll ons etc much better
  2. The first thing I would check is the proper figures from the manual and then compare those to the actual readings. I wouldn’t trust the machines idea of where they should be. the rear toe is a pain to adjust because it uses shims. I also found changing the shims effected the camber so there was a fair bit of adjusting and then readjusting. My mate has a tyre shop so I borrowed his alignment rig for the afternoon 👍.
  3. So I tripled checked the tension. I got 122 Hz on the left bank and decided to try to match it to the 130Hz I have on the right bank. Suppose to be 120-135Hz on new belts. Anyway I spent ages adjusting it and settled back on 122 in the end! It’s tricky adjusting the tension and tightening the bolt. I’ve gained plenty of experience of what’s required to increase or decrease tension. I don’t know why I didn’t do it myself before. The car starts and runs at idle. I haven’t road tested it because I’m waiting for a new auxiliary belt and pulley. For anyone planning to do this job
  4. Thanks Mike, the above is exactly what I did. Got 125 and 130hz (Lotus belts)and the same again after rechecking. 👍 Might just do one more check just to be sure😉. Waiting for some parts now anyways.
  5. Thanks Mike. I wonder why the clavis gauges are so expensive I have £20 guitar tuner which is obviously bang on. I guess the proper automotive gauges are lot more robust and no so much in demand. Anyway, I got round to tensioning the belts today. It took 3 or 4 goes, just a case of getting to know what is needed adjustment wise. Again turning the crank twice every time is a pain with the engine in the car. I found his easier from underneath. I have one question, after adjusting the tension and then rotating the crank twice to get it back to the correct checking position I get 130Hz.
  6. Alan, Not sure if it’s really necessary though? I see you have a different set up though!
  7. Thanks Mike. I found some time this morning to replace the belts. I did another check of the timing position, the pins only go in one time out of eight possible positions. My unmarked pulley/ damper is now marked! Belts are replaced now and timing still good after 2 rotations of the crank. I just have to check and adjust the tension now. A bit fed up of turning the crank over so I’ll do it another day. Belt tensioner and idler pulley bearings are good. Auxiliary belt tensioner pulley is a bit wobbly so will order a new one. (30,000 miles). For anyone doing this job the hardest th
  8. Here you go.
  9. Definitely no mark? The other engine I have is marked as in your picture. I read that some early engines have two drillings of the camshafts one at 10deg BTDC #2 cylinder and the other at 10deg BTDC #1 cylinder! I did two rotations and the pins only went in once out of the 8 options!!
  10. Im currently replacing the belts on my 96 V8. There is more room than I thought so removal of all necessary parts has been quite straight forward by just laying on top of the engine. 👍 My only problem so far is that my Crankshaft pulley has no markings against any of the 4 vanes? One vane did have some evidence of possibly some yellow paint on it. Anyway I locked the crank at all vane positions and the tolerance pins only went in at one position. On the 2nd go around I might add, starting at the 'yellow' vane. Im assuming that the pins only go in at one position 10 deg BTDC (fi
  11. Cheers Mike. I’ll give it a go with the app then. If I’m not happy I’ll have to borrow the proper gauge from a friend 👍. It’s funny we’ve gone from a twist of the belt and experience knowing it’s correct to an expensive instrument to measure the frequency and now a free app!
  12. While on the subject of belts. Do you think a smartphone belt tension app will do the job, Gates have one. Or should I try to get hold of a Clavis gauge?
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