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Everything posted by andyblackman777

  1. Thanks Dave. Sorry to hear about the poor maintenance!!!!!
  2. This is what I thought I wonder why Geoff thinks differently. ?? Joe from JAE seems to think I need a different slave cylinder mounting bracket. I notice that this changes at MY98.?? he has them in stock but the bracket is twice the price of the bell housing!! Also there are two types of alloy bell housing for pre and post MY98. Im thinking that maybe the bracket is not required. Dave did you have to swap the slave bracket as well??
  3. I just got this reply from Geoff at Esprit Engineering. I’m now confused. Hi Andy The cars came out with a single plate clutch and a alloy bell housing. The early cars and i mean the first couple of hundred were upgraded to the twin plate AP with the addiction of the cast bell housing to damp out a harmonic vibration at idle. many people think the bell housings went from cast to aluminium in fact it's the other way. we may well have one in stock
  4. Ace thanks guys. just see if I can track one down now!!
  5. Hi all, I was thinking of replacing my cast iron bell housing for the alloy one. has anyone done this, or does anyone know what additional parts I may need. Clutch fork, pivot, slave etc?? I have the dual clutch and its an early 96 so should have the alloy bell housing already but it doesn't?? Cheers Andy
  6. Cool cheers guys I have the proper relay. So will do the swap. cheers Andy
  7. Hi, Is it just a simple swap of a relay to get all four lights on with high beam or is there some wiring to be done? I have the relay just not sure where to put it electrics not my best. Cheers Andy
  8. Good luck a bit of patience is needed it’s a slow fiddly process
  9. If you had lost a few litres through that cap you would know about it. Sounds to me like the water is escaping into the cylinders when under high boost. I would definitely get that checked. Do the tests that have been recommended by others above, or a simple dye test by your mechanic. Is it possible that its overheating for another reason?? then the coolant is maybe venting out via the wheel well tank. Don't keep driving it, you will just damage the engine
  10. I put some of this on all my joints.
  11. Yes there is a square rubber block. It might be under all that silicone
  12. The yellow arrows point to the blanking plugs I made. I just tapped out to M12 an d used a cap head Allen bolt with a copper washer. I think on the other side you can fit a bsp plug. I just modified the fitting on the end of the SAI pipe. (I had a spare which had been broken off the pipe).
  13. That pipe coming of the SAI valve goes to the right hand head to inject air into that as well. You need to tap and plug both heads. That’s the SAI valve your pointing to. The flexi black hose goes to the smog pump. From memory I think you just cap off the blue vacuum hose
  14. On the European cars you can remove all the Egr and air injection. They don’t have the ecu fault code. The USA cars do so if you take it all off you may get a check engine light. You say yours should be ok with Johan’s map? I’m in the Uk. I removed my egr system and air injection and the smog pump. you need some blanking plates for the egr at the exhaust end and the plenum. I left the Egr valve in place but disconnected. I guess you could make a blanking plate up for it and remove it The air injection needs 2 blanking plugs I tapped the heads with an M12 tap I think and fitted blanking plugs. I did this with the engine in situ. Take precautions to avoid swarf falling into the exhaust manifold. I did this because all the Egr pipes were broken along with the smog pump hose. turns out the car runs better than before ??
  15. Hi, Does anyone know if our cars are compatible with the new E10 fuel?? Cheers Andy Apparently Yes
  16. I put the belt back on from above. No problems. 😁👍
  17. Alan you can get that bearing/pulley wheel from SJ sports cars. £50. I replaced mine was your oil pick up broken?? Curious about the buzzing
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