andyblackman777

I haven’t solved the door strap issue yet. But I did realise that the doors were rubbing on the front wings, when opening causing the Paint damage. Today I managed to move both doors rearward by a few mm, no more rubbing! I did this by loosening the main hinge bolts through the body and moving the hinges. it’s a 19mm nut accessed from inside. The lower one is under the carpet. Easy. The upper one is behind the pillar trim. I found it possible to prise this open enough to fit a ratchet and socket past. Then lots of faffing around adjusting the hinges several times. Very pleased I got it done in a couple of hrs 👍 Now to sort the check straps........

Very sad news. Rip Edward.

Aha I thought it was you. hope your well in these strange times Cheers Andy

Hi Fabian, Yes it’s been in the garage for too long. Finally sorting it out. Cheers Andy ps Do I known you from work?

One of my alloys on my V8 has a slight dent / buckle in the outer rim. I know that this can be fixed , some wheel places have a machine which ‘rolls’ the kinks out. Im concerned that this will weaken the wheel. What are people’s thoughts on this . Cheers Andy /

I thought that the plate against the bulkhead was metal. Turns out it’s just a rubber gasket. So I guess this is normal? cheers Andy

I didn’t notice the fuses! I’ll get that sorted immediately. The brakes can wait 🤣

Just noticed this!

Falken FK 510 ?? You can get a matching set!!

Good news👍👍

Did you get to solve the problem of no oil pressure?

Got a new cable Elm 327. Works a treat with Peter England’s Software. Cheers Oete👍 I got a new cable. The same as Metro’s above. Works a treat with Pete’s software 👍

I found this from https://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre-Size/17-Inch-Tyres/235-40-17-Tyres.htm

Thought I’d get the thread going again. front tyres seem very limited now. Maybe Yokohama advan AD08 the only decent one but it’s a track oriented tyre. I was thinking of running 245 40 17 instead of the 235 40 17. Gives a better choice of tyre. has anyone done this? cheers.

Does anyone have an Elm323 driver. (Windows8) can’t find one anywhere on the internet. I have an old ElmScan ISO cable with an rs232 to usb adaptor cable. trying to get it working! cheers

Haha maybe Mike. I thought you would say rebuild upgrade and replace my stock one! 🤪

Looks like the pins set the position, the clamps lock it there and the spanner is to leaver against. If you don’t lock the cam the setting pin could be sheared when tightening. I can’t see why you can’t just do one at a time ? Or 2 (one head). I’m sure someone who actually knows the answer will let you know 👍

Hi all, I have a complete engine that I acquired about 15 years ago. It’s sat on a stand in my garage. I’ve no idea if it runs. I did a compression test with a cheap gauge I borrowed. The compressions were low and varied a bit 80-100. On adding some oil to the bores 150psi++. (The gauge is not to be trusted the owner is convinced it under reads 20% odd). So I’m assuming the engine is complete internally and works with the cylinders sealing somewhat with the addition of oil What should I do with it? I could just leave it, I may never need it. I could rebuild it as a project.(a bit costly and unnecessary at the moment) Or strip it and clean/check all the parts and store them properly Just looking for ideas/opinions Cheers Andy

I did the same as metro. Except I kept the extra earths bolted them to the frame. They do nothing with the spals. Just in case I revert to the old fans......... On a side note. The wires are fused at 15 amp so are good for the extra current draw on start. I was also thinking of changing to waterproof connectors

You can get some combined gauges. I.e. oil temp and pressure on the same gauge.

Cheers Mike. It’s nice that it was something simple. The nagging misfire was getting me down. Interesting to note that both the remedies in this thread were basic items.

So I took the exhaust off and the cats are intact. Next I removed the spark plugs on the right bank. Number 2 was all wet the others were good. I then reinstalled them to run the engine and check for a spark on number 2. All sparking well. Removing the lead for number 2 made no difference to the running so number 2 is the problem cylinder. I swapped 2&3 spark plugs and the symptom moved to 3. I had some old plugs so I put one of those in and it runs perfectly. Went for a spin and no misfires at all. Faulty Spark plug. Result 👍. New plugs ordered. I guess the flooding of the engine and ultra rich running with the injector o-ring leaking must have finished off the plug. I’m amazed it was just that I was fearing something more sinister.

Thanks guys. I removed the secondary injectors to check the o-rings, all seemed fine so I refitted them. The engine then would not start, I eventually got it going and it was massively over fuelled, lots of white exhaust smoke, smell of petrol and the plenum was very cold. Obviously massive leak from Secondary injector o-rings. Lesson learned! Got some new o-rings. Car started ok but still smokey. Went for a drive and it cleared itself of smoke etc, but still misfiring. Went for a second drive permant misfire now, sometimes coughs then runs ok for a bit, constant misfire underload. Bearing in mind that the car ran almost perfectly before (apart from the very occasional mis at WOT). This seems a tad odd to me. I'm wondering what could have got damaged by flooding the engine?? No CEL. Hmm.... Thanks Andy Just thought maybe the cats have disintegrated with loads of fuel going through them. 100 cel cats from PNM

You can buy short lengths ‘ couplers’ to use for the missing pipes I got mine from viper performance.com

Thanks Mike, I misunderstood the function of that then! Its Erratic not continuous just misses the odd time and only under high load. doesn't always do it.