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  1. As some of you may remember my thread about testing the system for boost leaks. Well everything was good up to 4psi with my hand pump. Well after my last dyno numbers being a little lower than I expected, I decided to test the system using a compressor @ 15psi. Well that didn't go well. I noticed I was losing alot of pressure out of the EGR pipe. So I pull the plenum and checked the EGR valve. The EGR valve is fine but the design is LAME!!!!!!!!!!!!!11111111111111111111. The piston on the EGR valve is on the pressure side so any positive pressure blows the piston open and lose pressure into the exhaust manifold. So all V8s leak. No wonder the stock turbos are so overworked. I also found my EGR pipe cracked but I guess thats "common" too!!!
  2. Base boost (mechanical) is .35 bar or 5psi but the ECU can give you up to .85 bar or 12psi if certain conditions are met.
  3. Thanks Tony. I'm spraying after the turbos before the IAT.
  4. Thanks Mike. One thing that I was not expecting was cooler COOLANT temps with a cooler charge!!! That's a very nice bonus.
  5. Since I was tired of the car not being able to hold more than 13.5psi at redline, I decided to have the turbos reflowed. For refrence here's the previous dyno with boost spiking to 17psi falling off to 13psi: Now for the new graph. Notice how flat the tq curve is now and I only lost 200rpm of spool time. Blue is 12psi, red is 15psi, and green is 16psi. This was on a conservative dyno known to read about 5% lower than most. Overall, I'm happy with the car. It's making more power with less peak boost but it's holding boost now. It also seems Johan's ECU runs very rich on hot air but with lower charge temps and adjusting the water injection, the a/f ratio fell right in place in the mid to high 11's. Even at 16psi the car stays cool; cooler than before at 12psi and no water injection!!!! Here's the vid. The red car is Alan's (E5PR1T) running only 11psi of boost and water injection.
  6. Wow. Alot of worst-case senerios are being thrown in. Most, if not all, Esprits crunch if you go straight into reverse. If it does have a syncro, it doesn't do a good job. The way around this is to push the clutch in, select a forward gear (this stops everything), then select reverse, then ease off the clutch when you are ready to go on your merry way. Now if it still grinds, THEN you have a dragging clutch.
  7. Well, that went well. I ended up going to the hardware store and bought two 2" Fernco Quick Caps Then I made a hole on one of the caps and put a rubber tire valve stem. I put the caps over the turbo inlets and pressurized the system with a pump. Nothing had to be plugged and nothing leaked.
  8. Sounds like you figured it out. Yes the dump valve vacuum line goes under the plenum and tees off the hose in the back of the plenum. Now having the vacuum line to the boost solenoid off will result in uncontrolled boost. Meaning your wastegates will remain closed and you'll boost as much as the turbos will give. Not good.
  9. I was thinking of testing for boost leaks just to make sure everything is alright. Has anyone done this before on a v8? Any tips or common leak areas? Thanks
  10. Hmm, boost should not go to zero under load, min boost is .3 bar
  11. Yes, it would be very close to the purple line. Here are the boost curves for the High Tq code: To the OG poster, if boost is .3 bar across the rev range, I would look to make sure you are getting full wide open throttle then make sure the boost solenoid was working. If the car can hold normal boost for a few secs the falls off to .3 bar, I'd look for tired wastegates, boost leaks or bad turbo.
  12. ... unless you have the High Tq ECU
  13. What's the boost doing at mid rpms; say 4k rpm?
  14. Ok, oil lines and coolant line were straight forward but the turbos seem to have washers with a tab that's bent up against one side of the hex nut. How do I deal these? Thanks
  15. Thanks Mike. There's no corrosion so it would be hard to justify sacrificing the coolant lines although penetrating oil is def a good idea,
  16. The service notes call to remove the engine but that seems a bit extreme. Is it possible to remove the turbos while the engine is still in the car? If so, are there any tips or tricks on making it a bit easier? Thanks
  17. That's funny; I think it's a Final Edition thing. My car does it once in a while even after the seatbelt was replaced by the dealer. I've seen another final edition do it too. Anyhow, the problem is that the belt folds inside jamming it. So you have to pull the belt out completely, all the way out (you'll see the crease where it was folded), by tugging on it slowly with some force then making sure it goes back in flat. Sometimes it locks though, so you have to give it repedetive gentle tugs untill it unlocks, then you can pull it out completely like I mentioned above.
  18. Relax killer. Yes you are one of them but I meant it as a good thing. You car was not running right, now it is. What's wrong with that lil Kirk? (I kidding ) ... but whenever you wanna do this, we can do this.
  19. From what I've seen, every high hp GM V8 after the LT5, such as the Northstar (most simillar), and the LSx series, have some simillarities to the Lotus V8. I think the LT5 was a learning experiance for both GM and Lotus. Lotus found what worked and applied it to their V8. GM did the same and is still applying those principals.
  20. Chris, are you sure it's a factory High Tq reflash and not a Johan High Tq/Red hybrid reflash? That A/F looks alot more like a Johan code than a Lotus HT code. For wastegates, here's another option: Also, whos Final Edition did you drive? I can see how you felt such a big difference. A well-running Final Edition should dyno ~ 345rwhp and ~ 290rwtq. So eventhough you have less power, you also have more tq at lower rpms due to the higher boost. Although I would also add that most of the Final Editions I've seen lately were not running at their full potential, but they are now though. lol
  21. Check for fluid leaks off the slave too.
  22. Going by your tq curve, peak boost is def more than stock but either you are not holding boost and/or your exhaust is very restrictive. A V8 doesn't need any additional boost to hit 350rwhp. All you need is a free flowing exhaust (straight pipes with test pipes or sport cats) and 12psi boost (stock boost level). Here's a graph of a '98 V8 with exhaust and High Tq ECU only!!! (Notice lower but flat tq curve; 12psi across the rev range with free flowing exhaust) What ECU do you have? The RED/Johan ECU runs a little rich while the High Torque has a better air fuel. If you want to control fuel, something like the Apex-i fuel controller would the the easiest, although I don't think you need it. Also, wastegates are a good upgrade IF you BYPASS the stock boost controller and run an aftermarket boost controller. Wastegates + stock boost controller = too much boost!
  23. Sorry guys; a little late but here they are: The width of the stitches (double stitch) = 5mm Distance between stitches (center of double stitch to center of double stitch; perpendicular to stitch) = 55mm (2mm + or -; spacing not consistant) Also, diamonds are square and are only found on seats.
  24. Those are Final Edition seats. I'll measure mine when I get home and post the measurements.
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