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Posts posted by gmendoza

  1. Gonzalo,

    Did you ever check what your ignition timing is doing under full throttle through to redline with the OBD-II software? The new turbos would be more efficient and thus reduce the heat generated into the charge. Nice results, is your engine stock internally?


    Hi Paul, the scanner I used wasn't that great and it was a while back so my numbers may be off. One thing I do remember is that a Lotus High Tq ECU was scaned had more timing (almost 10* I think) while my Johan ECU had less( ~ 8* I think)

    The engine is internally stock.

  2. Whatever you do with the gearbox, always remember that the clutch is total crap. Higher ratio first gear will expose the inherent judder in the clutch and a chain is only as strong as the weakest link. I think that the twin plate clutch was probably designed on a Friday afternoon in 1923 and made out of left over cheese and bacon. All this said, the higher ratio close ratio 'box that GTO do is marvellous once the car is moving. Better shift, better acceleration through the gears and 500 bhp plus capability. (oh and an LSD) I have gone back to the standard box but mine still judders. Having lived with both for years, I would certainly go back to Kevin's 'box. I only wish they would do the same for the clutch as they did for the springs and dampers! One of the reasons that the taller ratio 'box was better was that you could put it in second at 15mph and then take it out beyond the legal limit without having to change gear!

    And...What is more...My red vacuum hose from the wastegates fell off a few months ago. This meant that there was no boost control. There was no fuel cut out at any stage and so I presume that there wasn't a ridiculous amount of overboost, but the performance was stunning. It was the closest drive to a Murcielago I have experienced. Without the taller gearbox it would have been hopeless (and without the 1 piece shaft, probably broken as well!)

    What do you suggest in place of the stock clutch?

  3. More miles on the car, and everything is great now. Here are a few vids from yesterday.

    Here's a rolling start. Part throttle in 1st due to wheel spin, WOT the rest.

    Here's a standing start. Part throttle in 1st again to avoid wheel spin, WOT the rest.

    On the subject of synchros, I did not have good luck with aftermarket synchros. 5th gear synchro never right from mile 1 so I replaced it right away with a used OEM and everything was well. 1st-4th worked fine while I was breaking in but failed once I started driving the car hard. So I split the case again to replace the synchros. I could not find any new OEM syncros in the states and I really wanted to drive the car so I put in my good used OEMs. It's all good now.

    When I split the case, this is what I found:

    The friction face of the 1st-2nd aftermarket synchro looked fine but the biggest differences I found were matterial does not seem the same as OEM and the ridge where the synchro spring rides on on the back is not as defined as the OEM. The aftermarket one just has a cast round shoulder as opposed to a defined edge on the OEM.





    The 3-5 synchros have a coating on the friction face of the synchro. The coating on the aftermarket ones looks almost like paint compare to the OEMs. The coating on the OEMs seems thicker and is textured.

    Here's 3rd. notice the coating after only break in miles:



    Here's 4th, the coating was beginning to fail too:


    So beware of cheap synchros.

    Has anybody ever measured the runout on the Lotus crankshaft centerline relative to the recess lip which centers the transmission on the adapter (bell housing). I am very interseted in the Holloway upgrade, but am concerned about the runout with the solid one piece primary shaft. When adapting different transmissions to U.S. big V8's I have had to modify the dowel pin locating holes in the adapter (bell housing) to achecive less that .003 runout with a short 7" input shaft. Anybody who is about to do this upgrade, it would be very heplful to measure the runout and post it, even if that is just a one of one reading. Holloway has no information on this.


    Sorry Wayne, I don't have that info but I was curious too. When I replaced the 5th gear syncro I spun the primary shaft with the trans in place and clutch disingaged. The shaft spun just as easy as it did with the box out of the car. So since there's no binding or additional drag, I feel the alignment is close to spot on.

  4. When you guys are blocking off the EGR valve are you:

    Are you blocking the EGR off and leaving it off the car completely and disconnected from the computer?

    Also are you removing the air injection lines and the little vacuum combi valve on the back of the LH cylinder head?

    All I did was installed a blocking plate at the exhaust manifold and another between the EGR valve and plenum. I left everything else connected.

  5. Casual standing starts feel almost like stock, very little difference. A little update on while, like I mentioned earlier, it's almost not noticeable driving around. The only time you notice it is driving around in first in a parking lot as the sound echoes of other cars.

    Also, I would be very cautions of Delorean syncros. I tried aftermarket syncros and they did not work well for me. Now I have OEM syncros and it's much better.

  6. I haven't scheduled a dyno yet because I was rebuilding the gearbox but the car does feel good.

    Although I don't believe there is more pressure in the exhaust than the intake. If there was, then the stock 5psi wastegates would get blow open way before the car achieved 11psi of boost.

    Dave, any update on your CEL?

  7. I just finished rebuilding/installing my geabox. I installed a new Quaife diff, new crownwheel and pinion, new syncros and the Holloway UN1 upgrade plus a new spigot bearing on the flywheel. I haven't driven the car hard yet because I'm still breaking in the CW & P but so far I'm very pleased.

    The kit consists of a one piece, strengthened primary shaft, First gear (3.00 to 1), Second gear (1.94 to 1), Fifth gear synchro hub, Fifth gear sleeve and thrust washer, strengthened front roller bearing, strengthened rear taper roller bearing, misc. circlips, washers, and primary shaft nut. It definitely looks like a quality kit. Only first and reverse are straight cut, not second. Also, the dog teeth on 1st and 2nd are about 50% larger than stock. The gearbox doesn't require any modification either. The kit just just drops in.

    After driving the car for a few days, I noticed the new ratios suit the V8 way better than stock. 1st is much more useable than before. I haven't tried any quick upshifts into second yet so I can't comment on that but the downshift from 3rd to 2nd is way quicker than before. Also, gear whine is almost none but then again my exhaust is pretty loud. And the little whine there is, is only in 1st. No issues getting in & out of gear; the gearbox just feels great.

    So as of now, I'm very satisfied. I'll report again once it's broken-in and I run the car through its paces.

  8. Thanks. The current mod list is:

    Johan ECU

    reflowed turbos

    Blitz boost controller

    water injection

    straight exhaust


    ... and I'm finishing up upgrading the gearbox with the Holloway upgrade and a Quaife.

  9. Thanks Sanj. I'm about to pull the clutch to inspect it.


    Damn Sanj, are you ever tired of being right!!!!!!! :o

    One of the pressure plate springs did break. Although the clutch has almost no wear (I was able to get better measurements now that the clutch is apart), hot spots or anything; you can still see the machine marks on one of the PP's. So it's a shame to buy a new clutch just for that.

    So, does anyone have a good PP with the springs for sale?

  10. I just pulled my gearbox for the Holloway upgrade. Now that it's off I notice lots off knicks on the bell housing, leading edges of clutch frame and fly like if there was shrapnel being tossed around. Now I am also missing the plastic piece that covers the window between the bell housing and engine. Also, my clutch measures 34.5 mm from edge of front pressure plate to edge of flywheel and the friction discs measure about 6.5 mm each. So wear doesn't seem bad. Prier to pulling the box, I had NO clutch issues at all and the splines on the input shaft are perfect. Here are some pics:




    I also noticed that when you push in on one output shaft and turn, the spider gears clack but not when I pull out on the shaft and turn. Here's a vid of that:

    Are either of these normal?

    Thanks in advance.

  11. Hi Dave. I ended up installing a block off plate between the EGR valve and the plenum and another plate at the exhaust manifold. I have no CEL and the car runs great but best of all, no boost leak. Later, I scanned the car to see what the emission readiness monitors were doing. Turns out, Johan's ECU does NOT support EGR. So it was useless in my car anyways.

    As for the EGR valve, it begins to leak at a pressure difference of anything over 5psi. A few days ago, I tested a 98 V8 with the High Tq ECU and it leaked also; no surprize there. My 5gal compressor could not pressurize the system more than 5psi (same as mine). The more the compressor would supply, the more it would leak.

    Now, we may block it on this car to see if we get any CEL's because the High Tq ECU DOES support EGR unlike my ECU.

  12. Yes I did. It wasn't too hard. I did have to make a tool to remove the coolant lines. Bending the tabs wasn't hard with a long screwdriver. The only problem was the front inside nut on the right turbo. I had to cut the nut off and replace the stud. Other than that, pretty straight forward.

    PS: I called you earlier but the call didn't go thru; RE: EGR.

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