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PaulEspritGT3

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About PaulEspritGT3

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  • Name
    Paul
  • Car
    GT3
  • Location
    Worcestershire

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  1. Hi Danny, I completely agree. I spent a lot of time and effort getting my Delco brakes working as they should - replacement adjustable electronic pressure switch and accumulator - and they work very well and are nicely balanced for the car. None of the contemporary road tests I have read commented that the brakes weren't up to the cars performance. In my view it is much more sensible to get the original system working as it should rather than replace it with a mongrel system.
  2. Please add me and Sue (although as we're doing something else at lunchtime we'll have to leave no later than 1100). 1 dodge 1979 2 changes 3 palmergeddon 4 chrisv8 5 Trevsked (probably 99% best do or else) 6 Paul Maurice 7 David Hindley 8 Sparky 9 Paul and Sue (GT3).
  3. Hi Richard, In case it helps.... When I first started playing around with the accumulator/pressure switch on the brake system I was also very concerned about needing to bleed the whole system, but this should never be neccessary. I suggest that you don't even attempt to do any bleeding. There is no link between the fluid in the two parts of the reservoir. The fluid that feeds the front brakes is only taken fron the from the front part of the reservoir and nothing you do with the accumulator/pressure switch affects this part, the fluid in the rear part of the reservoir is used to charge the accumulator and to feed the rear brakes. The accumulator/pressure switch part of the system is self bleeding, whenever you de-pressurise / re-pressurise it it bleeds itself, air cannot get into the rear lines (unless you do try to bleed them!).
  4. This thread looks the same as the one on the pressure switch, i.e. M14 with an odd seal arrangement. Could you do the same as I did with that ... Take a M14 bulkhead adaptor screw it into the housing gently until it bottoms, then cut it off to give some clearance and then screw it up with a copper washer, and then screw on a female/female M14 adaptor with a copper washer so that you are then left with a standard M14 female fitting which shoud take the WABCO accumulator? Both adaptors are available from hydraulicmegastore.com The M14 bulkhead adaptor is https://hydraulicmegastore.com/product/metric-male-x-metric-male-bulkhead-with-locknut/ The M14 female/female adaptor is https://hydraulicmegastore.com/product/metric-fixed-female-to-metric-fixed-female-equal-1-5mm-pitch/
  5. Hydac EDS 8000 switch I've just fitted one of these, and it works perfectly. Back in 2012 Darren (dodge1979) and I developed the two mechanical pressure switch fix for this problem - this works well and is the cheapest fix but it is difficult to find suitable switches with sufficient hysteresis and the set points are factory set. See thread “delco brakes get them working successfully and well”. I then tried Ralf Burk’s single switch fix, and is easy to fit and works well but the pressures are also not adjustable. See thread “New ABS switch delivered yesterday”. The Hydac switch is very neat and is very flexible, the pressures can be adjusted with a few button presses. The attached images show what it looks like ... Image 1 shows the switch as installed. Image 2 shows the switch in action pressure, the actual pressure is displayed together with the status of set point 1 on the left (Green as the switch is open, i.e. not pumping) and set point 2 on the right (Red as the switch is closed, it opens if the pressure drops to 1600 psi). 1) I fitted the switch to a short length of hose similar to the two switch fix. 2) As the M14 fitting on original switch is rather odd the easiest way to attach to it is to use a copper washer and M14 bulkhead connector. This has long thread which needs to be reduced in length and then use an adaptor to convert this to a 1/4" BSP thread.. 3) Some simple wiring is required both to connect it to the original switch wiring and to supply 12 volts to power the switch. The switch is an EDS 8446-2-0250-N00, I also bought the Hydac wiring connector. Total cost is rather expensive at about £450. These Companies can supply the switch in the UK …. www.hyquip.co.uk www.leaderhydraulics.com I initially tried a EDS 8446-2-0250-000 which is cheaper and does work but needs two additional relays. I used the lower pressures as suggested above in this thread, these pressures do seem to give a better feel to the brakes. Here is my Setup and User Guide, Pressure switch settings and User guide Pressure switch settings Remove seal and replace with a copper washer I used a copper washer 14mmx22mx1.5mm (the original seal must not be used as it will be dissolved by the brake fluid). Units setup Main menu, Extended function (EF) Units (uni) = Psi (PSi) Pump control (set point 1) Switch point (SP1) = 2240 psi 10psi increments Switch-back point (rP1) = 1800 psi Then in Extended function (EF) …. Switch delay time (dS1) = 1.4 seconds 0.01 sec increments Select normally closed (ou1) = Hnc Low pressure warning light (set point 2) Switch point (SP2) = 1635 psi min SP1 to rP1 =35psi Switch-back point (rP2) = 1600 psi Then lock the switch settings (Pr6 = Loc) in Extended function (EF) Power feed I took the 12v feed to the switch using a piggy back fuse holder from the ABS 3 amp fuse (E5) with a 1 amp fuse, this also feeds the original switch and pump relay. Description Pump on pressures required are 2300/1800 psi, but …. When the switch is energised (ignition turned on) the switch will close if the pressure is below the switch point to bring the pressure up to the switch point, this means that if the pressure is just below the switch point the switch activates for a very short time and if this is less than 1.4 seconds the ABS ECU flags an error code 62! So by setting a switch delay of 1.4 seconds the switch will always activate for at least 1.4 seconds and therefore no code 62. At the same time you need to reduce the switch point by about 60 psi which results in a set pressure of about 2300 psi and no code 62. This means that if there is a fault that would normally cause a code 62 error no error would show, but I don’t think this would matter as all the error code are still active. Pump runs for about 5.5 seconds (including 1.4 second delay). User guide Pressure is displayed in PSI Left led is SP1 Right led is SP2 If SP1 is OK (open) led is green, when pressure is below the setting point or actually pumping light is red. Will pump up to max pressure whenever current is switched on. If SP2 is OK (closed) led is red.
  6. What it does. I installed the two switch fix as described in the thread "delco brakes get them working successfully and well" nearly four years and it works very well. I've now tried one of Ralf's switches and it also works very well, he has developed a clever way around the problem. The original Lotus switch is effectively two switches, one switches the pump on at 2200 psi and off at 2700 psi and the other switches the red warning light on if the pressure drops to 1800 psi. Ralf has used just one switch which switches the pump on at 2200 psi and off at 2700 psi and also switches the red light on at 2200 psi unless the pressure builds to 2700 psi. Therefore it doesn't actually exactly replicate the original like the two switch solution does but it does work and is much easier to fit. I can explain a bit more about how it works if required. Hope this helps.
  7. Gordon, If it does turn out to be the Pressure switch you should read the "delco brakes get them working successfully and well" thread. http://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/69952-delco-brakes-get-them-working-successfully-and-well/?hl=delco I installed this fix 3 years ago and it is still working very well.
  8. Excellent article Dave (and all your work on the car) – I’m sorry about the damage and its cost but I find what you are doing very interesting. My GT3 is still going better than ever since the work you did on it last year. Paul.
  9. This is excellent Owen, like you I've also fitted the two switch solution but I'd much rather reuse the original switch in the way you're investigating.
  10. Hi Darren, Try this ... Open the log file you have created using WordPro or Notepad. Select all (right button). Copy. Open espritlog1.asc with WordPro or Notepad. Select all. Delete. Paste. Save. Then start Espritmon as normal ... this should pick up your file. Paul.
  11. This may be of interest to some, although many will say the solution was obvious. Anyway in case it saves anybody else some time and money ... My GT3 developed a problem where it started and warmed up well except that the idle speed when warmed up was about 1500rpm, and then if I switched off and restarted the engine it idled perfectly at about 1050rpm. I used Freescan and Espritmon but could see nothing wrong, and then replaced the TPS and Idle Air Control but no change, and then considered the MAP sensor or even the ECU. I then tried resetting the ECU (disconnect/reconnect battery) and it's perfect again! While investigating the problem I came across these interesting items, > A description of the Delco engine management system as used on the Esprit >> http://www.espritfactfile.com/ecm.html > The GM part numbers of all the components >> http://www.espritfactfile.com/mpfixref.html
  12. If anybody would like to replace a failed ABS pressure switch with this two switch solution but doesn't want to do the work Paul Matty Sportscars in Bromsgrove are now offering the fix.
  13. I used a "14mm metric male bulkhead with locknut" part no MBH14-14 from http://www.cotswoldengineeringsupplies.co.uk This has a very long M14 thread at one end which you can cut to any length you want, you will then finish up with a standard M14 male to connect to. I screwed it in until it bottomed with a thick copper washer and then cut off enough to leave a clearance.
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