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  1. Hi Danny, I completely agree. I spent a lot of time and effort getting my Delco brakes working as they should - replacement adjustable electronic pressure switch and accumulator - and they work very well and are nicely balanced for the car. None of the contemporary road tests I have read commented that the brakes weren't up to the cars performance. In my view it is much more sensible to get the original system working as it should rather than replace it with a mongrel system.
  2. Please add me and Sue (although as we're doing something else at lunchtime we'll have to leave no later than 1100). 1 dodge 1979 2 changes 3 palmergeddon 4 chrisv8 5 Trevsked (probably 99% best do or else) 6 Paul Maurice 7 David Hindley 8 Sparky 9 Paul and Sue (GT3).
  3. Hi Richard, In case it helps.... When I first started playing around with the accumulator/pressure switch on the brake system I was also very concerned about needing to bleed the whole system, but this should never be neccessary. I suggest that you don't even attempt to do any bleeding. There is no link between the fluid in the two parts of the reservoir. The fluid that feeds the front brakes is only taken fron the from the front part of the reservoir and nothing you do with the accumulator/pressure switch affects this part, the fluid in the rear part of the reservoir is us
  4. This thread looks the same as the one on the pressure switch, i.e. M14 with an odd seal arrangement. Could you do the same as I did with that ... Take a M14 bulkhead adaptor screw it into the housing gently until it bottoms, then cut it off to give some clearance and then screw it up with a copper washer, and then screw on a female/female M14 adaptor with a copper washer so that you are then left with a standard M14 female fitting which shoud take the WABCO accumulator? Both adaptors are available from The M14 bulkhead adaptor is https://hydraulicme
  5. Hydac EDS 8000 switch I've just fitted one of these, and it works perfectly. Back in 2012 Darren (dodge1979) and I developed the two mechanical pressure switch fix for this problem - this works well and is the cheapest fix but it is difficult to find suitable switches with sufficient hysteresis and the set points are factory set. See thread “delco brakes get them working successfully and well”. I then tried Ralf Burk’s single switch fix, and is easy to fit and works well but the pressures are also not adjustable. See thread “New ABS switch delivered yesterday”. Th
  6. What it does. I installed the two switch fix as described in the thread "delco brakes get them working successfully and well" nearly four years and it works very well. I've now tried one of Ralf's switches and it also works very well, he has developed a clever way around the problem. The original Lotus switch is effectively two switches, one switches the pump on at 2200 psi and off at 2700 psi and the other switches the red warning light on if the pressure drops to 1800 psi. Ralf has used just one switch which switches the pump on at 2200 psi and off at 2700 psi and also switches
  7. Gordon, If it does turn out to be the Pressure switch you should read the "delco brakes get them working successfully and well" thread. I installed this fix 3 years ago and it is still working very well.
  8. Excellent article Dave (and all your work on the car) – I’m sorry about the damage and its cost but I find what you are doing very interesting. My GT3 is still going better than ever since the work you did on it last year. Paul.
  9. This is excellent Owen, like you I've also fitted the two switch solution but I'd much rather reuse the original switch in the way you're investigating.
  10. Hi Darren, Try this ... Open the log file you have created using WordPro or Notepad. Select all (right button). Copy. Open espritlog1.asc with WordPro or Notepad. Select all. Delete. Paste. Save. Then start Espritmon as normal ... this should pick up your file. Paul.
  11. This may be of interest to some, although many will say the solution was obvious. Anyway in case it saves anybody else some time and money ... My GT3 developed a problem where it started and warmed up well except that the idle speed when warmed up was about 1500rpm, and then if I switched off and restarted the engine it idled perfectly at about 1050rpm. I used Freescan and Espritmon but could see nothing wrong, and then replaced the TPS and Idle Air Control but no change, and then considered the MAP sensor or even the ECU. I then tried resetting the ECU (disconnect/reconnect battery) and
  12. If anybody would like to replace a failed ABS pressure switch with this two switch solution but doesn't want to do the work Paul Matty Sportscars in Bromsgrove are now offering the fix.
  13. I used a "14mm metric male bulkhead with locknut" part no MBH14-14 from This has a very long M14 thread at one end which you can cut to any length you want, you will then finish up with a standard M14 male to connect to. I screwed it in until it bottomed with a thick copper washer and then cut off enough to leave a clearance.
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