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PaulEspritGT3

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Everything posted by PaulEspritGT3

  1. Hi Danny, I completely agree. I spent a lot of time and effort getting my Delco brakes working as they should - replacement adjustable electronic pressure switch and accumulator - and they work very well and are nicely balanced for the car. None of the contemporary road tests I have read commented that the brakes weren't up to the cars performance. In my view it is much more sensible to get the original system working as it should rather than replace it with a mongrel system.
  2. Please add me and Sue (although as we're doing something else at lunchtime we'll have to leave no later than 1100). 1 dodge 1979 2 changes 3 palmergeddon 4 chrisv8 5 Trevsked (probably 99% best do or else) 6 Paul Maurice 7 David Hindley 8 Sparky 9 Paul and Sue (GT3).
  3. Hi Richard, In case it helps.... When I first started playing around with the accumulator/pressure switch on the brake system I was also very concerned about needing to bleed the whole system, but this should never be neccessary. I suggest that you don't even attempt to do any bleeding. There is no link between the fluid in the two parts of the reservoir. The fluid that feeds the front brakes is only taken fron the from the front part of the reservoir and nothing you do with the accumulator/pressure switch affects this part, the fluid in the rear part of the reservoir is used to charge the accumulator and to feed the rear brakes. The accumulator/pressure switch part of the system is self bleeding, whenever you de-pressurise / re-pressurise it it bleeds itself, air cannot get into the rear lines (unless you do try to bleed them!).
  4. This thread looks the same as the one on the pressure switch, i.e. M14 with an odd seal arrangement. Could you do the same as I did with that ... Take a M14 bulkhead adaptor screw it into the housing gently until it bottoms, then cut it off to give some clearance and then screw it up with a copper washer, and then screw on a female/female M14 adaptor with a copper washer so that you are then left with a standard M14 female fitting which shoud take the WABCO accumulator? Both adaptors are available from hydraulicmegastore.com The M14 bulkhead adaptor is https://hydraulicmegastore.com/product/metric-male-x-metric-male-bulkhead-with-locknut/ The M14 female/female adaptor is https://hydraulicmegastore.com/product/metric-fixed-female-to-metric-fixed-female-equal-1-5mm-pitch/
  5. Hydac EDS 8000 switch I've just fitted one of these, and it works perfectly. Back in 2012 Darren (dodge1979) and I developed the two mechanical pressure switch fix for this problem - this works well and is the cheapest fix but it is difficult to find suitable switches with sufficient hysteresis and the set points are factory set. See thread “delco brakes get them working successfully and well”. I then tried Ralf Burk’s single switch fix, and is easy to fit and works well but the pressures are also not adjustable. See thread “New ABS switch delivered yesterday”. The Hydac switch is very neat and is very flexible, the pressures can be adjusted with a few button presses. The attached images show what it looks like ... Image 1 shows the switch as installed. Image 2 shows the switch in action pressure, the actual pressure is displayed together with the status of set point 1 on the left (Green as the switch is open, i.e. not pumping) and set point 2 on the right (Red as the switch is closed, it opens if the pressure drops to 1600 psi). 1) I fitted the switch to a short length of hose similar to the two switch fix. 2) As the M14 fitting on original switch is rather odd the easiest way to attach to it is to use a copper washer and M14 bulkhead connector. This has long thread which needs to be reduced in length and then use an adaptor to convert this to a 1/4" BSP thread.. 3) Some simple wiring is required both to connect it to the original switch wiring and to supply 12 volts to power the switch. The switch is an EDS 8446-2-0250-N00, I also bought the Hydac wiring connector. Total cost is rather expensive at about £450. These Companies can supply the switch in the UK …. www.hyquip.co.uk www.leaderhydraulics.com I initially tried a EDS 8446-2-0250-000 which is cheaper and does work but needs two additional relays. I used the lower pressures as suggested above in this thread, these pressures do seem to give a better feel to the brakes. Here is my Setup and User Guide, Pressure switch settings and User guide Pressure switch settings Remove seal and replace with a copper washer I used a copper washer 14mmx22mx1.5mm (the original seal must not be used as it will be dissolved by the brake fluid). Units setup Main menu, Extended function (EF) Units (uni) = Psi (PSi) Pump control (set point 1) Switch point (SP1) = 2240 psi 10psi increments Switch-back point (rP1) = 1800 psi Then in Extended function (EF) …. Switch delay time (dS1) = 1.4 seconds 0.01 sec increments Select normally closed (ou1) = Hnc Low pressure warning light (set point 2) Switch point (SP2) = 1635 psi min SP1 to rP1 =35psi Switch-back point (rP2) = 1600 psi Then lock the switch settings (Pr6 = Loc) in Extended function (EF) Power feed I took the 12v feed to the switch using a piggy back fuse holder from the ABS 3 amp fuse (E5) with a 1 amp fuse, this also feeds the original switch and pump relay. Description Pump on pressures required are 2300/1800 psi, but …. When the switch is energised (ignition turned on) the switch will close if the pressure is below the switch point to bring the pressure up to the switch point, this means that if the pressure is just below the switch point the switch activates for a very short time and if this is less than 1.4 seconds the ABS ECU flags an error code 62! So by setting a switch delay of 1.4 seconds the switch will always activate for at least 1.4 seconds and therefore no code 62. At the same time you need to reduce the switch point by about 60 psi which results in a set pressure of about 2300 psi and no code 62. This means that if there is a fault that would normally cause a code 62 error no error would show, but I don’t think this would matter as all the error code are still active. Pump runs for about 5.5 seconds (including 1.4 second delay). User guide Pressure is displayed in PSI Left led is SP1 Right led is SP2 If SP1 is OK (open) led is green, when pressure is below the setting point or actually pumping light is red. Will pump up to max pressure whenever current is switched on. If SP2 is OK (closed) led is red.
  6. What it does. I installed the two switch fix as described in the thread "delco brakes get them working successfully and well" nearly four years and it works very well. I've now tried one of Ralf's switches and it also works very well, he has developed a clever way around the problem. The original Lotus switch is effectively two switches, one switches the pump on at 2200 psi and off at 2700 psi and the other switches the red warning light on if the pressure drops to 1800 psi. Ralf has used just one switch which switches the pump on at 2200 psi and off at 2700 psi and also switches the red light on at 2200 psi unless the pressure builds to 2700 psi. Therefore it doesn't actually exactly replicate the original like the two switch solution does but it does work and is much easier to fit. I can explain a bit more about how it works if required. Hope this helps.
  7. Gordon, If it does turn out to be the Pressure switch you should read the "delco brakes get them working successfully and well" thread. http://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/69952-delco-brakes-get-them-working-successfully-and-well/?hl=delco I installed this fix 3 years ago and it is still working very well.
  8. Excellent article Dave (and all your work on the car) – I’m sorry about the damage and its cost but I find what you are doing very interesting. My GT3 is still going better than ever since the work you did on it last year. Paul.
  9. This is excellent Owen, like you I've also fitted the two switch solution but I'd much rather reuse the original switch in the way you're investigating.
  10. Hi Darren, Try this ... Open the log file you have created using WordPro or Notepad. Select all (right button). Copy. Open espritlog1.asc with WordPro or Notepad. Select all. Delete. Paste. Save. Then start Espritmon as normal ... this should pick up your file. Paul.
  11. This may be of interest to some, although many will say the solution was obvious. Anyway in case it saves anybody else some time and money ... My GT3 developed a problem where it started and warmed up well except that the idle speed when warmed up was about 1500rpm, and then if I switched off and restarted the engine it idled perfectly at about 1050rpm. I used Freescan and Espritmon but could see nothing wrong, and then replaced the TPS and Idle Air Control but no change, and then considered the MAP sensor or even the ECU. I then tried resetting the ECU (disconnect/reconnect battery) and it's perfect again! While investigating the problem I came across these interesting items, > A description of the Delco engine management system as used on the Esprit >> http://www.espritfactfile.com/ecm.html > The GM part numbers of all the components >> http://www.espritfactfile.com/mpfixref.html
  12. If anybody would like to replace a failed ABS pressure switch with this two switch solution but doesn't want to do the work Paul Matty Sportscars in Bromsgrove are now offering the fix.
  13. I used a "14mm metric male bulkhead with locknut" part no MBH14-14 from http://www.cotswoldengineeringsupplies.co.uk This has a very long M14 thread at one end which you can cut to any length you want, you will then finish up with a standard M14 male to connect to. I screwed it in until it bottomed with a thick copper washer and then cut off enough to leave a clearance.
  14. We'll be there, but we'll only take the Esprit if the weather is reasonable.
  15. It looks unlikely to be a pressure problem. You may already know this but from the Service manual the full error code description is "CODE A0002: ABS TELL TALE SHORTED TO BATTERY OR BRAKE DIODE SHORTED", I have attached the relevant pages...
  16. Have you tried this (from the Lotus Service notes) ...... Pump Runs Continuously IMPORTANT: This procedure is to be used if the pump runs for more than 60 seconds. 1 . With the ignition off, de-pressurise the accumulator by FIRMLY applying and releasing the brake pedal up to 40 times. A noticeable change in brake pedal feel (to a hard pedal) will occur when the accumulator is completely discharged. NOTE: In the following steps, use a suitable container and/or shop towels to catch the brake fluid and prevent it from contacting any painted surfaces. 2 . Loosen but do not remove the two tube nuts from the master cylinder front chamber (for the left and right hand front brakes). 3 . Press the pedal to its fullest extent. Fluid should run slowly from around the tube nuts. 4 . With the pedal depressed, tighten both the tube nuts. 5 . Quickly release the pedal and re-apply using a jabbing (sharp and rapid) motion with full force. 6. Turn on the ignition and allow the motor to pressurise the accumulator. 7. Assess brake pedal feel, and road test-as in steps 16 & 17 of ‘Manual Bleeding’. IMPORTANT: If the pump still runs continuously, refer to ‘Hydraulic Diagnosis’ Paul.
  17. I’ve now fitted this fix for the failed Pressure switch problem to my GT3, using two standard industrial pressure switches to replace the original (unobtainable) Lotus combined switch. I’ve been testing this for a few weeks and it works perfectly. The attached photo shows the switches in place, none of this is visible when the cover is in place. The switches I used were - For the pump switching a “PSP300 E 1/4P STL” adjusted to 2700 psi failing and 2200 psi rising (the switch code means “300” adjustment range up to 300bar, “E” EPDM diaphragm, “1/4P” 1/4 inch BSPP thread and “STL” made of steel). For the low pressure warning a “PMN150AE 1/4 STL” with protective boot adjusted to 1800 psi falling (the switch code means “150” the adjustment range is 50 to 150 bar - max pres 300bar, “A” Normally open contact – switch opens when pressure drops below the setting and the red light comes on when the earth is broken, “E” EPDM, "1/4" 1/4 inch BSPP and “STL” made of steel). You will also need some hydraulic connectors, copper washers, high pressure brake hose and electrical connectors. I used 1/4” BSPP fittings, with appropriate convertors from the original 14mm fittings, as these are readily available in the UK. The hose is standard PTFE brake hose (it is very important only to use metal fittings, PTFE or EPDM because brake fluid dissolves most other materials). I got the pressure switches from PVL Ltd for a total cost of about £120, and a good source of the fittings is Pirtek. I recommend both these companies. The third take off point in the photo is for a pressure gauge which I attached during testing – it is important to do this to ensure that the system is working to the original spec. Thanks to Darren.
  18. An excellent day and very well organised - thanks Dave. It was good to meet everybody. I hope Francesco and his wife have a good day at Hethel. A few more photos below - to add to the others. Let's have another one soon.
  19. This is too good to miss so we'll be there ... 1. Changes +1...SE Modified.. 2. Francesco +1...S300 #25 3. Dodge1979...+1 the yellow terror 4. nigeninja.......S4s 5. ChrisV8 +1... V8 Modified 6. GasmanGT3.... GT3, less Le Mans stickers 7.sailor bob and mr Oogieboogie ..,,S4 8. slewthy + kids ( welcoming party and film crew.) 9. Davebarny 10. PaulEspritGT3 (Paul and Sue).
  20. It will be good to have a few events this year - I'm in for this, subject to the date.
  21. Adrian, Why have you taken me off? 1 dodge1979 2 Changes 3 nigeninja 4 PaulEspritGT3 5 gasmangt3
  22. Nicola, I've been trying to get a pressure switch for the last month. I've tried every possible source in the UK and there are none available. I tried Douglas Valley for a used one but unfortunately the one they have is not the right one. I was told it is the same as a Buick Reatta and I bought one from the USA but it completely different. I've written to Lotus Cars (Mr Bahar) pointing out that I'm amazed that an expensive car less than 15 years old (my GT3) can be made effectively scrap due to the unavailability of this switch - as presumably Lotus do not recommend replacing the braking system and losing the ABS. I finally found a replacement switch available from Lotus Esprit Australia (http://www.lotusespr...om.au/parts.htm), it looks excellent and I've ordered one but until it arrives I cannot confirm how good it is. It cost about 1000 Australian dollars - a lot of money but I don't want to replace the braking system if I can avoid it. They have them made to order and to fulfil my order they are having two made so if you want one order it soon!
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