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Paula&Marcus

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Everything posted by Paula&Marcus

  1. Hi Lucas, My friend Steffen (from Ramspott & Brandt) sells all the parts as a DIY-kit here in Germany. I did not put this kit on our P.U.K. website, because I feared that it might too much of a problem having customers with a dismantled tranny and a lot of bits and pieces that call me ... "Marcus, I fear these parts you sent me donot fit properly ... Is that gear supposed to go in like this or just the otherway round ... ?" .... you know what I mean ;o) Cheers Marcus
  2. Wow, your MGA looks fantastic !!! ... is this colour "old english white" ??? Marcus
  3. Hi Erik, Your oil leak looks more like the infamous cam-tower and/or cam-cover leak. This actually is not a big problem besides from beeing "ugly" and maybe you get some burning-oil-smoke from time to time rising up from the exhaust header. But this problem usually has nothing to do with clouds and/or white steam comimg out of the exhaust-pipe ! I feel you have two different issues: One is the cam-tower and/or cam-cover leaking and the other problem maybe is: - blown head gasket OR - turbo bearing failure Cheers Marcus
  4. Hi, IMHO the best base code is the improved S4s-code. All chips #2 and upwards use it as base code Marcus
  5. Hi Ian, The A/C-ON-OFF-idle-problem is well known for the stock/original S4s-code and also well known for the V8. When the A/C is cycling (turning On and Off) it puts some load on the engine, therefore the 4-Cyl. engine has a seperate A/C-On-Idle-table where idle rpm is a little bit increased. Its similar with the V8 ... Interestingly the problem mostly occurs when the engine is idleing and the A/C-is suddenly shutting-off causing the ECU to switch the lower rpm table, it may happen that the engine is (almost) dying ... this is the A/C-On-Off-Problem. Marcus
  6. Well done Ian Marcus PS: Could anyone here please explain to me how you manage to put these nice little thumbnail pics into the threads ?
  7. Hi All, To my experience dynos vary between 5-15% ... thats quite a lot ! Even if they are calibrated correctly you will get significant differences with same car on same dyno-type. IMHO there are just too many factors that will have influence on the reading. IMHO a dyno is not a very useful tool for getting usefull data from your engine since they do all the readings at WOT. Whats going on at 30% ? Marcus
  8. Hi All, Driveline loss for an Esprit is around 13-18% (depends on tranny condition, type of oil in tranny, temperature and last but not least tyres !) Cheers Marcus
  9. Hi Paul, Your graphs look good ! Seems to be around 11:1 A/F when on open loop mode. This is just right. I personally would not take the risk to run a 12:1 @ WOT @ full boost in open loop. If you like you could do just one dyno run with 30% or 50% throttle ... you will see that it will stay significantly leaner then ;o) Marcus www.PUKesprit.de
  10. Ian, Its just the other way round ! Car is almost all the time in closed loop, only when TPS is greater than 96% it will switch to open loop and does the fuelling via fixed tables. Marcus www.PUKesprit.de
  11. Hi All, Please dont worry ... if everything is fine with your engine you wont melt a piston ... even on a bone stock engine + chip #6 installed. However if fuelling or someting different is not working 100% it might happen. The most likely causes for a melted piston are: - wrong sparking plugs - clogged fuel filter (very likely !) - old/weak fuel pump (very likely !) - c/cooling system not working properly (should not harm if boost control is still done via ECU) - ECU boost control system disabled and done manually via boost controller or different method (very likely !) => manually raising the boost pressure over the ECU controls = very dangerous !!! Marcus www.PUKesprit.de
  12. Hi Jason, Wow I just realized your pic ... what marvellous colour is your SE wearing ??? Is this burgundy or what ? Looks great !!!! Marcus
  13. Hi, You can see all the pin outs in the workshop manual (Section ML, page 5-7) If you have a "big" email post-box I can send you the whole manual (50MB long !) Cheers Marcus (www.PUKesprit.de)
  14. Hi Bibs, I have a new original Piston+Liner-Set here for your engine ;o) Cheers Marcus
  15. Hi Ed, It will take several (up to 50) engine starts till the light will go off again. If you like, you may first clear the codes and additionally disconnect your battery a whole day long. Cheers Marcus
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