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Paula&Marcus

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  1. Hi Felix, The signs you have (= slipping + heavy pedal) are actually indicating a worn clutch. Are you sure that the PO actually replaced the clutch ? Since the Esprit clutch is a fully hydraulic one, you wont have much chance to get more miles out of it by adjusting the realease fork. Please check this adjustment/specs. Its 9-12mm. Please see the workshop manual Section QE, page 7: "Release Fork Adjustment (4 cylinder cars) On four cylinder cars, a threaded abutment in the end of the release fork must be set to a specified dimension in order to accommodate the positional working range of the slave cylinder piston with both a new friction plate, and a fully worn plate. The dimension specified allows the maximum permissible wear of the friction plate to take place before the slave cylinder piston ‘tops out’ on its return stroke, causing release mechanism preload and consequent clutch slip. This indicates that clutch replacement is necessary. A smaller dimension would allow the friction plate to wear to the point where damage could be caused to the pressure plate and/or flywheel, whereas a larger dimension would not fully utilise the friction plate material thickness. Specification = 9 - 12 mm" Cheers Marcus
  2. Hi Tony, IIRC the resistors were 15 Ohm. But, wouldnt it be easier for you to just leave the secondaries electrically connected and only remove the fuel supply line ? Cheers Marcus www.PUKesprit.de
  3. Alessandro, The Id number changes with the eprom you have installed, of course. If you have a PUK Eprom installed, then you have a different Id number, of course. Also the 2-litre Eproms from factory are not all the same (= not identical). Thats why it is very likely that two GT3 owners with stock Eprom donot have the identical Id number. Happy holidays Marcus
  4. Ian, This up and down is exactly how it should be (in closed loop, of course). Thats the nature of the thing and this is how the whole fuel metering actually works. If it does not do this min-max swing anymore, then it is time to worry. Please have a look into your workshop manual section EMH.2 - F There you will find all the technical details. Cheers Marcus
  5. Hi All, Yes, the inlet air temp (IAT) affects fuelling and timing. The higher the IAT the less timing advance you will get. Of course also the allowed boost will affect timing . The more boost the less advance you will get. The High Torque Code and the Red Code have the very same timing tables. The only difference is the actual boost level. The Red gives more boost and therefore it will give less advanced timing. Best results you will get will low IAT numbers. Thats why we relocate the IAT-sensor way after the water/meth injector if a water /meth injection is used. The stock location is right after the (right side) turbo outlet. This location is not the best IMHO. Any other loaction somewhere in the plenum will get more realistic and better results. Additionally it will not only sense the right turbo outlet temps ;o) Cheers Marcus
  6. Hi All, Sustained boost !? ... what does that mean in reality ?! On real roads or on a race track you will actually see max. boost (here: 0.9 bar) only for a couple seconds. Or is there anybody who can stand fully on the throttle for more than 15-20 seconds in any gear before it either hits the rev-limiter or in 5th gear you will be at least 175mph fast ? Even here on the Autobahn when there is almost no traffic its quite impossible to do 100% TPS and full bost for more than around 10-15 seconds. Max. IAT you will see depends a lot on these parametres: - ambient temperature and humidity - turbo efficiency - c/cooler efficiency (if you have one installed !) A bone stock V8 (without c/cooler) will reach about 80
  7. Hi Mick, Your Freescan record is worthless ... there are too many "0" for the sensor values. I suspect you forgot to set the interact button, before recording. Please set to interact-mode and do once again. Another possibility could be that the ECU does not give enough data, because maybe you are in limp mode (= check engine light ON & fans running continously right from the start) Cheers Marcus
  8. Ian, This is one of the most famous misunderstandings with Freescan ! What it shows there (A/F ratio in the Engine Data folder) is the desired TARGET and not what is actually coming out of your tailpipe. Please look at these figures, when you like to know what comes out: - O2-Volts - integrator (for long term) Cheers Marcus
  9. Hi Wayne, Yes the ECU takes the MAT/IAT into account and adjusts for ignition, fuelling and if the MAT/IAT is too high also the boost gets reduced. IMHO a very good upgrade is to use slightly bigger (not too big ones !) reflowed turbos. This will give more flow at higher boost and also will lower the MAT/IAT. Addditional intercoolers will add to the benefit, but up to 450+ HP its not a must, IMHO. Of course it will not hurt, besides the well known downsides: slightly more lag, pressure drop, not original appearance, lot of work to install ... My personal favourite is the following: - K&N filters - Red race ECU - reflowed turbos + Alu-actuators (max boost 1 bar) - better primary injectors (I personally love the RCs) - high flow cats or if your country allows it: De-Cat pipes - high flow exhaust system With a setup like this you can get reliable 450+ HP easily and moreso your engine bay will look perfectly original I know of one V8 owner who did 500 Hp with the very same setup at slightly higher boost around 1,1 bar on a very cold day on the dyno. Not too bad ... Marcus
  10. Ok Phil, Lets wait another 2-3 years till the test car has done 15000-20000 km ? Or maybe even more ????? We also had done a tubular header years ago and it failed after 2 weeks, cracked and kept cracking. But this one seems to be different. I'm very positive Marcus
  11. Hi Mick, Maybe you will like a tubular manifold ? We will have these marvellous manifolds available very soon. Price will be 750,- Euros for the manifold. The manifold has been tested now more than 5000 km and its still fine ) Cheers Marcus
  12. Gareth, I cannot comment on the japanese cars, because I simply dont have a clue on this topic ... But, all the 911 I have driven so far didn't have one ... except one GT3, but thats something definitely not normal ! I also know that many (if not all) F-cars have one installed. Oh yes, you are right the BMW M-models also have one. Hmmmm .... it seems that its a quite mixed scenery ... What about Maseratis, Lambos, Astons .... ? Honestly, I dont know. Marcus
  13. Really ? ... can you put up a little list ... ;o)
  14. Hi All, JFYI 99,9% of all Sports Cars donot have LSDs installed from factory ... If you like to add one to your car, just have a look at the Quaife LSD that is available for our Lotus Esprits. Marcus
  15. Tony, If you install these two turbos, along with proper intercooling and a properly programmed ECU and you definitely have to also think about: - new and better forged pistons (the original cheapo cast ones will fail with significantly higher output) - multi layer head gaskets (these gaskets are more safe at higher boost) - and maybe some internal balancing (crank, rods, pistons) and please keep an eye on your gearbox and treat it very gentle. If I see this correctly, you should end up with something around 500+ HP .... Please keep us informed with your progress. Marcus PS: I personally feel that the turbos you chose are too big ... 76mm compressor is huge for a 3,5 litre twin turbo application ...
  16. Adrian, Of course, nobody forces anybody ... but if I read comments from Kato like "best suspension you can buy for your money ... long development (yes it took years !) ..." then I really have to rethink and ask myself a couple questions. - it is not a bargain, not at all. Actually its quite expensive. - the ride height is not correct. It is too high, there is no doubt. This simply is poor engineering. A mistake like this should be rectified within one week. - from my own experience the ride quality is very good, however the standard/stock S350 setup is better, IMHO. So, why does nobody (except me) point at the problems ? Instead they all praise it and keep hoping that it will settle by itself ... Honestly, if I would sell a suspension for only half the price that raises a sports car by 2-5 cm, then my customers would tear me into pieces ... and they would be right. Marcus
  17. Adrian, Ahhh ... its a nose-up look then ;o) I hope for you it will settle 2-3cm the next months ... but honestly I donot believe in too much settling. Usually springs have a significant bahaviour with settling. First they actually settle (this happens the very first days), then they will do (almost) nothing for years, and at last they will settle again when they become old and tired (this is after 15-25 years). I simply dont get it ... why couldnt they simply match the spring length and/or the damper length in a way that it is correct for the Esprit ? Or just use a damper that has an adjustable platform ? Cheers Marcus
  18. Hi Adrian, Just one question ... what is the ride height (front & rear) with your new suspension installed ? Did they manage to get at least down to the original/stock ride height 170mm ? Or does your car look like a 4x4 now ? Marcus
  19. Hi Adrian, Sorry to hear this. Please dont get me wrong, but this is an already well known Lotus 4x4 lock alike feature, din't you know that ? Jokes aside, its acually true that everyone who has installed this new Lotus supension got their car back with an increased ride height 2-4 cm more than original. I know that Lotus is famous for great suspension development ... but in this special case something must have gone wrong ;o) Cheers Marcus PS: Adrian please search the forum archives, this problem was already discussed one or more times and the 4x4 joke is already there too ... ... something more helpful. There should be an adjustment feature (with two steps) for the rears that allows two different settings: 1. High 2. Even higher Make sure they donot choose No.2. Marcus
  20. Hi Chris, I assume its a carbed turbo, right ? If so, then you have to go the classic route. What I would do is the following: - check the compression first. This should be perfect. If not I would first get the engine overhauled. - check the valve clearance and adjust that to specs. - then K&N-filter and free flow exhaust - as a next step I would up max boost around +0.2 bar and of course you have to check the mixture strength. If it gets too lean at higher boost you should have the carbs rejetted (smaller corrrection jets and maybe bigger main jets) If all this is done properly you should see at least 250Hp. Cheers Marcus
  21. Hi All, IMHO you should be very carefull when increasing the master cylinder's diameter on a clutch system. What you did is going from original 3/4" to 5/8" diameter (metric: 16mm to 19mm). This is an increase by 40% in area and volume ! This should increase your slave cylinder travel quite noticable. What makes me a bit nervous is the fact that if everything with your clutch setup is 100% and the fork adjusted up to spec (9-12mm) then you should get too much travel there ! Either you have compensated that with a differnet fork adjustement (5-8mm for example) OR you still have air in your system ... I personally believe that there is still some air ... Cheers Marcus
  22. Hi Peter, No, not yet. The way we do the resetting is still via Tech1 ... Putting in new codes is still done by replacing the eeproms. Cheers Marcus
  23. Hi Tony R, The original ECU-connector is a Bosch-Type. However the ECU itself is a EFI. Its a company in Italy who manufactures these ECUs. Actually it is already an "aftermarket" free programmable ECU ... why removing it ? Cheers Marcus
  24. Hi All, Max boost with the factory standard V8 software is 0,75 bar, but NOT all the time ... Most of the time its much less than 0,75 bar. It depends on the rpm, TPS, selected gear and many more parametres ... Here is a graph that will show you how a stock V8's boost should look like: Cheers Marcus
  25. Paula&Marcus

    V8 ECU

    Hi Ian, Please dont get me wrong, but I personally donot believe in a knackered/broken V8 ECU ! I have seen quite a few knackered/broken 4-Cylinder ECUs but I havent seen a single V8 one that was out of function. Could you please tell me what the problem was with your car/engine in the first place ? Cheers Marcus
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