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Paula&Marcus

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Everything posted by Paula&Marcus

  1. Pffffffff .... Charlie, tell her she should better keep her left hand in the pocket and the right one on your thigh, instead of ruining your "near perfect" interiour ... Marcus
  2. .... hmmmmmmmmmm ... the tweeter looks strange ... has somebody pushed it inwards ? ....
  3. Malc, Please dont get me wrong, but I tried it this way, because its quite a complex scenario and I wanted to make it more easy for you and me ... For example, if it is better just after the resetting, then you had a "running a bit lean problem" -> i.e. try a new O2-sensor Cheers Marcus
  4. Hi Joakim, What you are experiencing is not uncommon, but it actually does not appear on all cars ... Dont worry, there is a solution. 1. please reset your ECU when your engine is warmed up ! (disconnect battery for a couple minutes) 2. reconnect and go for a short run. 3. Is your hestitation still the same, or is it bigger or is it smaller ??? Please report ! Cheers Marcus
  5. Hi Hans, Most of the "facts" he told you are right and wrong as well ... - yes, you can change max boost by turning a screw (= wastgate actuator rod), but this is not recommended, because there is a correct basic setting (= 0,65-0,7 bar) with your car and when you disturb that setting, you will confuse your ECU which manages the 0,7+ bar range. - That A/C thing is BS IMHO. Maybe he was talking about the A/C-radiator instead. In some cars (i.e. some S300 and race cars) the whole A/C system gets removed and A/C radiator gets used as an additional readiator for the c/cooler system. - Yes, this is perfectly correct. A/C system actually gets switched off when you apply more than 95% throttle . Cheers Marcus
  6. Hi Adrian, ... hihi ... #11, of course !!! Cheers Marcus
  7. Hi Adrian, JFYI, if you dont like to mess around with the MemCal and its internals, there is a very elegant Chip-Adapter for you. Look: Just put the new chip onto the adapter and pop the whole thing into your ECU. If you like you may have a look here: Chips-Page Its quite low down near the bottom of the page. Marcus
  8. Yes John, Exactly, you're spot on. BTW, thats exactly what G
  9. Hi John, Ooooops you are right its around 850 rpm not 980 with a bone stock ECU for the V8 ... I apparently mixed something up with some 4-Cylinder specs ... What your car does is perfectly normal Cheers Marcus
  10. Hi Dave, There is nothing to adjust ! Please donot mess around with the butterflies ! The IAC valve is exclusively controlled via ECM and will control the idle perfectly to around 980 rpm when the car is stationary. If the car moves (>3 kph) it will be just above 1000 rpm. If you have the Tech1 then you can monitor the IAC duty cycle. It will vary somewhere between 35-100%. If it is fully shut it will be near 35% and if it is fully open it will show near 100%. The reality is somewhere inbetween. If you actually have a problem with the idle (or with the engine dying) then you just need to relearn the idle properly. Easiest way to do this is going on a loooong run. Whenever you come to a stop and the engine dies just let it die and restart it (without pressing the throttle !!!). Sooner or later the ECM will have relearned the idle. BTW, dont forget to do this also with the A/C ON. Cheers Marcus
  11. Ahhhhh ... now I see ! I didn't know that your G-Esprit has a modern c/cooled Delco MPFI engine installed. Now all this makes sense ... Thanks Andy for enlightening me ! Marcus
  12. Andy, A c/cooler actually only makes sense if your engine is "seeing" the benefit from it. The c/cooled engines (SE and up) have the MAT-sensor placed after the cooler and additionally have the proper software to make really use of the c/coolers cooling-activity. Thats why I wrote "useless". If you just stick a c/cooler into the intake path of an earlier Turbo Esprit you will not see the huge performance gain like you have with the later engines. The difference only will be little ... maybe the same like driving on a cool day vs. driving on a warm day. BTW, the c/coolers that some people use vor the V8 look very similar, thats why I was thinking that it looks like for the V8: Cheers Marcus
  13. Hi All, Here is the original/stock boost table for the S4. (For the SE its almost identical) Max. boost is 0.97 bar but it drops with higher rpm. Cheers Marcus
  14. Hi Andy, This one looks like for a V8. They usually come as a pair (left + right bank). For the 4-cylinder cars its useless, IMHO. Cheers Marcus
  15. Hi Gareth, In your special setup I personally would take something that has a bit more max flow than a "normal" S4S turbo. The compressor section should be a bit larger and the turbine section should also be a bit more "flowy" (= less restrictive). Its important that not only the compressor wheel is enlarged, otherwise you will end up with a somewhat strange characteristic (= quite a lag in low and low-midrange + huge increase in mid and higher-midrange + relatively poor highs because of too much turbine restriction) With your setup and chip #6 and with a proper turbo you will be in the 350+HP range, but what is more important is the torque curve. This has to be as flat/even as possible. If everything is done properly you should get +/- 15% torque from 2500-7000rpm. Cheers Marcus
  16. Hi Kylie, Sorry for my late chime in. You definitely have a problem with the pre cat sensor bank 2. The post cat sensors dont play a (big) role here with your Red-ECU (non US I hope) code. Get this pre cat O2-sensor replaced by the corect one and you will see that it will jump into closed loop and will act equal/similar like your bank 1. Cheers Marcus
  17. Hi Hans, If your old core (= old turbo) is of any use we can do a new one for Euro 1250,-. You can actually choose the trim. There are several choices/trims available. It depends on your engine setup and your personal taste what you will like best. The bigger the compressor wheel the more lag you will get in low and low midrange and the more spectacular the boost will come into play in midrange and higher. For best overall performance and drivability its essential to get a good compromise ... Just keep in mind: Its torque that drives you forward in more than 80% percent af all driving conditions ... not top end power. Cheers Marcus
  18. Hi Gareth, If your turbo actually has a crack, then you will need a "new" one. A crack-repair is not possible, IMHO. What kind of "new" turbo to get is a matter of taste. Ask 5 people and you will get 6 different opinions on this subject IMHO, it depends on what you are looking for (price and performance charcteristics). For an (almost) stock 2,2 litre engine a good S4s-style-turbo (this one has a slightly bigger compressor and offers a better and more efficient flow) along with a S4s-ECU (= S4s-code) is a VERY good way to go. Cheers Marcus
  19. Hi All, Thanks to James who directed me to this thread. Yes, sadly its true that Larini stopped production of the 4-Cylinder system. However we have two of these systems in our stock. When these have gone we also have to switch to something else. IMHO, I also donot understand why they stopped doing these marvellous exhausts. Compared to the number of V8-systems we sold more 4-cylinder exhausts ... hmmmmm Cheers Marcus
  20. Hi Nicolas, BTW the connector for the brakes is the bigger one just next to it (below) ! Cheers Marcus
  21. Hi Mark, No, the GT3 has the "normal" single disk 4-Cylinder clutch like the SE and the S4. Compared to the S4s-clutch this one is not heavy at all. BTW, the original S4S-clutch is a pain, IMHO. Its too heavy and it does not hold up well. Cheers Marcus
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