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  1. Hi Ian, This is VERY strange ... OK, fault code 26 (= quad driver circuit) has nothing to do with your turbo ... its just another independent thing that came up. Good luck hunting ... you only have 9 possible faults that are responsible for code 26. I bet, your mem cal and chip is fine, because if there is a fault you would get into limp mode right after switching on the ignition (=check engine light & fans running right from the beginning). About your coolant ... please take out some coolant and have a close look at it and please also have a look at your engine oil ! The oil and water in the turbo centerpiece is completely separated, there is no sealing or gasket between the two circuits. If the bearings and sealings are shot you will get oil into the intake and into the exhaust, but not into the water jacket. If there actually is oil getting into the water jacket and/or vice versa, then you have a crack somewhere in the cast centerpiece .... ouchhhhhh Provided that the plumbing is correct ! ... but I dont think that somebody es ever able to swap the oil return line with the water line .... but who knows ... Muppets around ? Good luck Marcus
  2. Hi John, It depends if the alarm is armed or not. My V8 can sit about 3-4 weeks with the alarm OFF and only a couple days with the alarm ON ... I have a normal 55Ah/12V battery installed. Cheers Marcus
  3. Pfffffffffffffffff ... using an Esprit in DragRaces ... ... no comment :crybaby:
  4. ... I would definitely say NO ... ... real cool 2,0 bar is not realistic. This definitely would lift the head and disturb the head gasket ... Marcus
  5. Graham, Do you really expect that there is a "definte" answer ??? What I can tell you is that 1,2-1,3 bar is no problem. With boost higher than 1,4-1,6 bar you will get into serious trouble ... been there done that. Marcus
  6. Mike, .......... hmmmmmmmmmm ... then there is a fault somewhere ... hmmmmmmmmmm ... Which muppet implemented it ? Marcus
  7. Hi Mike, From my experience a rebuilt Esprit V8 engine, which is not primed (= just filled with oi and all the oil lines an coolers dry) will take ages to get oil pressure just by operating the starter. Please, before you remove the entire engine, just to discover that NOTHING is wrong with it, you should tow the car in 2nd gear till the oil light goes out. When you do this you will see that it takes quite some time for the oil pump to fill all the lines and coolers ... Its hardly a job that your starter motor can do by its own ... ;o) Cheers Marcus
  8. Yes, IMHO this idea is not a good one. You will add a lot of non-original complexity (piping, connections, ...) and there wont be a noticable benefit besides being ugly to look at ... My advise is, if your orginal pump fails, then replace the impeller with an almost indestructible PU-one ... Cheers Marcus
  9. Hi Chris, You wont believe it, but the most common problem is air in the system along with the expanding red hose. Both facts actually counteract the proper function of the master-slave operation. If there is NO air in the system it will work fine even when its hot outside and/or when the whole car is heated up. But only the most little air-bubble will spoil the party. Of course the flexible red plastic hose will also add its part to the scenario. I'm sure there is some little air trapped that is a pain to get out. Bleed the whole system with a power bleeder and you will see that it is just fine after that treatment (assuming your master and slave and your clutch is 100% up to spec) Cheers Marcus
  10. Hi Dave, #3 has the same torque like #6 but only in lower and mid rpms. #6 has a lifted boost level to the IMHO safe maximum 1,24 bar througout the whole rev range. This means that #3 behaves like #6 up to around 4000+ rpm and then it is more like #2 #4 and #5 are just inbetween. I hope you can you follow my explanation ... ? Marcus
  11. Hi Dave, You can use every chip from #1 to even #6. Its very unlikely that you run into too lean conditions with an (almost) stock engine, even with #6 installed. Yes #4 and #5 and #6 offers more torque vs. #2, because the lower rpm. boost level is higher than with #0,#1 and #2 Cheers Marcus
  12. Hi Mat, From my experience this effect actually will be present right after the installation, but it will not last long. It will settle quite quickly after the first normal runs ... Marcus
  13. John, what Steffen has to offer is the very same I have to offer, because we both are working together ... ;o) Marcus
  14. Luke, Thats very strange !!! Of course it needs some learning, but this usually does not affect max boost in a way that it only gets to 0,8 bar. ..... hmmmmmmmmmmm Marcus
  15. Hi Tony, Today we had a discussion here about your turbo-nightmare and we worked something out for you ... maybe you already know, because you talked to Steffen on the phone. If you like we will prepare a nice PUK Stage 1 turbo for you for a special reduced price and you should send us your WC-turbo in return once you have installed the original turbo. With our turbo in combination with chip #6 you should see something around 320+ HP crank. Just get in contact with us if you are interested in this option. Cheers Marcus
  16. Hi Gareth, Have you already installed it ? Are you happy with it ? Marcus
  17. Hi hi ... they are like Bibs told us: "... extensively developed Lotus special designed units ... "
  18. Tony, The easiest and quickest method is disconnecting the battery (or removing the ECU-fuse) for a couple minutes. You can read this in your Workshop Manual Section EMH.1 Another smart way is to do it directly in Freescan. There are ready available erasing features implemented for the BLM-cells and the fault-code memory. Doing this will have the very same effect. Tony, please dont get me wrong here, no offense intended, but you are fiddling around with your engine and Freescan and your Workshop Manual for many months now and you still donot know too much about all this ... how comes ? You should really follow my advise I gave you some weeks ago and read the Manual Section EMH.1 - EMH6 and "learn this by heart". About a restricted exhaust path: IMHO you cannot hear a restricted exhaust path, maybe the sound is a bit more silent or a bit different, but you cannot say that there has to be a significant noise that is indicating a restricted exhaust path. The only way to tell how much it is blocked is measuring the backpressure. The method for this procedure is explained in your Workshop Manual Section EMH.6-13 Cheers Marcus
  19. Hi Mark, Of course, good point !!! If there is too much backpressure, maybe a blockage (= blocked cat or partially closed EBPV) you will get a very significant loss in higher rpms. Interestingly these blockings donot affect lower rpms ... Retarded ignition timing ? Of course, this may happen. I strongly hope he did an ECU reset ... Cheers Marcus
  20. Hi Mark, Yes with all types of chips. It does not matter what software you are using from bone stock chip up to #6 you wont get problems, IMHO. Marcus Tony, I dont think it a good idea to even try this. You cannot cure a fault by adding another unknown component. In theory and practice your setup should work just fine. Many people have done the very same (or very similar) uprades with great sucess. I'm still convinced that somewhere you or your specialists implemented one or more faults/errors. Its up to you ... you have to bite the bullet and find whats actually wrong ... Marcus
  21. Tony, Mark, IIRC there are 2x RC SL 270 secondary injectors installed in that engine, right ? From my experience this no problem at all, actually these injectors are absolutely fine for (slightly) uprated Esprit engines. We have done this size many times with no problems at all. If the engine actually is running too rich on top end, then there is a different problem ! Marcus
  22. Peter, Don't you have the workshop manual and the parts lists with the "explosion diagrams" ??? If not, just send me a PM. Cheers Marcus
  23. Beautiful car Jon, But where are your OZ split-rim wheels ?? The earliest V8s just have to wear these ... IMHO. On the long run these earliest V8s and the last ones (Final Run) V8s and the S350 will be the models that may become collectibles ... just like the S1 and the S4S ... IMHO of course. Marcus
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