fjmuurling

That's what I fitted in my SE. The Seal is 48 x 62 x 7 mm with a dustlip. For the fitting of the new bearing cups I turned the OD of 2 old cups down on my lathe, so they can be used as a tool for pressing in the new cups.

No voltage stabilizer and all other gauges work normal.

@CHANGES, what are those sleeves ? Just asking because I would also like to change the springs and dampers on my SE. (looking into the GAZ shocks etc)

The measurements were taken with the whole cabling. I removed the connectors from the sender and hooked the potentiometer up to the connector and the ground to the engine. With me sitting in the back and adjusting the potentiometer, my girlfriend was sitting in the front reading the gauge and writing down the corresponding resistance value which I measured after setting the needle on each whit / red stripe on the gauge. So the cabling looks ok.

No ABS on my 1990 SE, so no problem there. I like to upgrade the front brakes from the sliding pin TMC calipers to something with better I also need to do something about the rear so that is where the rear brembo's come into play.

The car was of the road for about 5 years after a headgasket failure. Since june this year it is running again (okay some very minor problems but all solved except the high oil pressure (indication)). The above problem manifested itself after the first starts so after eliminating a couple of things I changed the sender for a new one but this did not solve it. Your suggestion of testing the sender is a good idea. (easer said than done, one of the joys of working on a Lotus), however an old and a new sensor having the same failure/problem seems unlikely but ........................

Almost all oil pressure problems are low oil pressure (indication). I have the opposite namely a high oil pressure (indication), when the engine is idling the needle of the dash gauge goes completely to the rightside past the 7 mark. I have done the following in order to try to solve the problem: Replaced the oil pressure sender however it didn't solve the problem Measured the oil pressure with a gauge. (T junction made at the oilfeed line coupling at the turbo). Measured 4.5 bar engine idling 1200 RPM, measured 5.0 bar at 3000 RPM (engine / oil was cold), indication in the dash was 7+ Checked dash gauge indication. removed the "WN" (White - Brown stripe) wire from the sensor and connected a potentiometer to it. See table below. No obvious misreadings / indications. The gauge indications in relation with the resistor values match (almost) the 0 - 184 Ohm curve of a 0 - 10 bar VDO pressure sender. (end point is different). Gauge Mark Resistor value (Ohm) 0 - Red 8.23 1st white stripe 48.7 2nd white stripe 70.9 3rd white stripe 86.8 4th white stripe 110.9 5th white stripe 128 6th white stripe - 7 145.5 Measured the resistance between the sender housing and the engine block, almost 0 Ohms (0.1 Ohm), so no problem there Disconnected the Oil pressure warning switch wire and started the engine, no joy needle goes to the max. Some other things: The Oil in use is Castrol Edge 10W 60, engine filled in may 2019 from unopened/sealed "containers", these have been sitting on the shelf for about 4 years before being used. The standard oilcooler flange between the oilfilter and the oilpumphousing is replaced by a thermostatic version (Mocal IIRC). I saw the the dash gauge indication drop 1 or 2 times during a testdrive on the highway, everything nice and warm. After a very short time the needle went into the corner again. If anybody got some ideas / info etc for solving the problem I would be more than gratefull. Freek

Anyone got some pics of the rear brembo set up, including the routing of the handbrake cables. many thanks. Freek

I covered the jig with self adhesive foil used for protecting the covers of books (in dutch boeklon / kaftfolie). It is cheap and more important the epoxy doesn't adhere to it. If you need more pictures just let me know.

Undertray rusty brackets. Be creative with some stainless steel, cobalt drills and grinding tools, and some epoxy and glassfibre. I also made a jig first.

Some pics to help. (OK it is an SE) Some threaded rods / nuts and washers make an excellent lifting device.

it looks like the potentiometer is broken off from the left side of the pcb (where the blue wire runs over the horseshoe shaped thing).

It looks like there is a small discrepancy between the board layout drawing and the circuit diagram. In the board layout Pin 3 (Collector) of the TR2 is connected to D1 and R6 and in the circuit diagram the same pin is connected R1/R6/pin 14 IC1/ etc. I believe the board layout is correct. Attached is the schematic I made (hopefully no mistakes) according to the board layout. Windows Logic Module C082M6531F.pdf And the corresponding PCB layout.

The outer CV joint is fitted with a circlip. See section FE of the Lotus Service Notes for a complete description of boot replacement procedure.

thanks for the info Glyn. My plan is to upgrade the brakes front and rear, however I haven't decided yet on what to use on the front (PNM do several versions). At first I had the plan to upgrade the wheels (imagewheels.co.uk) but as I can get some new tires for the original wheels this plan is postponed. Bigger wheels would give me more options for the brakes. The idea behind using the S4 rear brembo setup is that I can use them at a later stage as handbrake calipers ala sport 300 setup. (new rims etc needed).