fjmuurling

Hi Barry, what is the ID number of your chip?

Front cover has 10 deg marks on it. Easy for a double check with the flywheel marks.

I also bought a set from Glyn. More than happy with them and great service from Glyn. Freek

sorry was referring to Ian's post about the nova's. Should have quoted.

http://www.imagewheels.co.uk/billet-102-alloy-wheel/ for lookalikes.

Picture of my foam cutter, it is a little big but can be made to any size. In the middle an aluminium tube , both ends made flat, the left and right part are just a piece of broomstick with a slot in the middle fitted on the ends of the tube with one bolt/nut so they can swivel. below you can see the cutting wire, and the top wire is just a wire (i used a plastic coated steel wire) and a spring (with adjusting mechanism, ie long eyebolt and butterfly nut). The spring keeps the cutting wire " tight".

Mystery bracket seen from below, it is for the turbo support of the alunox manifold. The small bracket attaches to one of the turbo / manifold bolts.

Hi Glyn, what are the lotus partnumbers for the washers? A079W4083F (smaller ones) and A075W4006Z (big ones) if I'm right?

Looks good, but are the bolts of the sealhousing not supposed to be "buttonhead" bolts in order to avoid clearing issues with the flywheel?

Most likely the door is stuck because of sagging of the door. The door hinge is held in position by the clamping force of two bolts (or nuts can't remember at the moment) in combination with some abrasive material. Have a look in the parts manual.

Found the topic with the Injector dimensions.

The RC Injectors are physically shorter (a lot) than the Stock Injectors. http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/ do Brand New Rochester/Delphi 17104224 Injectors., as well as Bosch ones.

If I remember correctly I used a small yoghurt "bucket".

This is how I installed my rear crank seal. Just use a piece of plastic (not too thin) cut to the right size. The plastic protects the lip of the seal and puts some tension on it, which will help with the centering. Make sure the edges of the plastic are not sharp.

The swarf will also be in the (needle) bearings etc of the Gearbox. Bearings only like "clean" oil and not oil contaminated with particles. The same applies for the gears and the synchrorings. I would open the (pandora's) gearbox. just my (2 euro's ) thoughts.

The secondary injectors are high impedance Injectors. They should be around 16 Ohms and not 1.6 The primaries are driven by a FET for each pair, and have current sensing build into the drive circuit. (Peak and Hold Injectors). The secondary injectors are driven by one of the QUAD drivers IC in the ECU. (2 outputs of the driver parallel connected). (Satured type Injectors)

This is what a stock MEMCAL should look like on the inside:

Make sure that the power is off (disconnect battery (safest) or pull ECM fuse) before disconnecting the ECM plugs and taking the ECM out of the car.

Most Info about the PROM ID's can be found in the partslists, however it is not all conclusive What car do you have? It looks like to be a S4s according to your post. According to the partsmanual the EPROM ID for the S4s is 5269 - $1495, however I have never seen this one. AFAIK the PROM ID for the S4s is 5270 - $1496. The $6CE5 you mention is unknown to me and does also not ring a bell to me. I guess it is a modified one. The first 2 bytes in the EPROM are the ID number bytes. (The $ sign denotes a hexadecimal value).

Billet 61 made by image looks like a good lookalike

Just had a quick look at your log file and found the following: I can not find the engine RPM in the file. The Oxygen sensor voltage is swinging but looks not completely right. The ACT temperature is high, never falls below 40 deg C, there is a spike to 140 deg C and most of the time it is above 60 deg C. I agree with Travis, run "normal" NGK spark plugs, BPR6EKN from memory if I'm right. What kind of Oxygen sensor are you using? Looks like you have a problem in your chargecooler circuit. Chargecooler pump working? No air in the CC cooling liquid? ACT sensor OK? Wiring fault in the ACT sensor circuit?

"Not sure how you measure resistors but the colour bands are brown, red, brown and then another brown I think", in combination with the picture of the resistor gives the following value: Brown Red Brown Brown = 120 Ohm, 1% tolerance. Judging by the size it looks like to be a 1 Watt resistor.

Driveshaft Seal Tool. Lower right part is the "Handle". Bootfloor out makes the job a lot easier. (I did mine with the bootfloor out).

I used the SJ tool T000T0681F for inserting the driveshaft seals. I came with the handle. See the picture on their website. There is also a small fitting guide. The only problem I had with the SJ tool was that it didn't want to slide nicely over one of the splined driveshafts. But some "elbow grease" in combination with some sandpaper (or similiar) to smooth out the bore in the tool fixed the problem. Any sealant which sticks on metal, forms an elastic seal and is resistant to oil will work. I would not use the loctite 5331, the Hylomar you mentioned looks like to do the job properly. Use some gearbox oil on the inside diameter of the seal when using the tool. (not on the outside of the seal). Have Fun , Freek

Rusted piston / cylinder bore in the slave Cylinder? If the slave cylinder / piston is damaged it will get stuck. Moisture / water can enter the slave cylinder if the rubber boot is damaged at the end of the clutch slave cylinder.