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Malc Holmes

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Everything posted by Malc Holmes

  1. Hi Nigel, The gearchange kit should make a very significant improvement, but if the gearstick end of the link has slop in it, then it will never be 'as new'. On my car I know the bushes in the gearstick mecha are pretty worn, but I can still get all gears fairly easily, as as Jon says, its no more than finger force required between 3, 4 and 5th. 1st and second are a little more tricky because of the geometry of your arm and the slop in the gearstick meaning 1st and second are pressed up against the reverse inhibitor block. If its just 1st and second that are giving you trouble and adjusting the rod ends on the cable and the tie bar length can't over come this, then try adjusting the reverse inhibitor block position. I have not needed to do this myself, but have heard from a few folks that it has made a major improvement to 1st and second ease of selection. As soon as I get time I will be fitting a new set of bushes to the gearstick end (I have the parts, just not the time!). It will be interesting to see how much more of an improvement this makes. One last mod that make a worthwhile improvement on mine was deleting the cross haft support bearing and fitting an upgraded cross shaft (thicker diameter, hence less flexible). The bearing realy drags on the cross shaft as it slides through it, hence increasing the gear stick effort required to move accross the gate. Lotus can provide the new cross shaft (at about
  2. '89 SE Turbo 1) Split floor for easy gearbox access 2) Removed EBPV 3) Removed all Air Con system 4) Electric engine pre-heater fitted (Kenlow) 5) Throttle Jack actuator disabled. 6) Electric CC pump fitted 7) HUGE charge cooler radiator fabricated to replace origional CC rad and Aircon rad 8) Aluminium fuel tanks fitted 9) Braided clutch hose RC injectors set (all 6), and #2 chip may get fitted before 9th October
  3. Hi Ric, I have heard that some people have needed to adjust the position of the reverse inhibitor block after fitting the gearshift improvment kits. In one case, I heard that selecting 1st was as good as impossible without doing this. Not sure why this should be, I haven't realy contemplated it at length! On my SE the translator to exhaust bracket tie rod length needed to be adjusted away from the Lotus recomended dimensions in order to get 1st easily (so the gearstick leans more to the RHS when no gear is selected). This may be worth trying before adjusting the inhibitor block (since the latter involves removing interior trim). Good Luck Malc Holmes
  4. Carl, As per my mail to you. The 900 kit seemed to have done the job. The actual re-build was done in Japan so I don't know if they came accross any issues or difficulties. If you don't want to risk anything I would suggest trying Western Power steering since they where very helpful and seem to have plenty of experience with expensive/ exotic parts. Good Luck Malc Holmes
  5. No 107 & 108 1 - Malc Holmes 2 - '89 Esprit SE Turbo 3 - Yes, name TBC 4 - No, camping 5 - No 6 - No 7 - Yes 8 - Milton Keynes
  6. Sounds very much like fuel starvation to me. An elderly fuel pump that can't keep pace with the fuel demand has got to be a likely candidate for the cause of the problem.
  7. I'm glad to hear the gearshift improvement kits are being discussed more often recently. Like all people who have made the improvement, my car has been transformed. The Lotusbits kit will shortly be available to Club LEW members at a small discount, which I hope will help give it a bit more of an edge on the other kits. I don't want to distract from the function of the other kits at all (they all do much the same job, and having bought and tried a few, I can't complain about there function), but like with any improvment you can make on the Esprit, if it isn't going to break the bank, you might as well fit the best parts you can get. The lotusbits kit uses rod ends with the body and the bearing surface made of stainless (the stud remains chromate treated mild steel). This gives the advantage that the bearing surface will not corrode, which I think is unique amoungst the kits. This reduces the need for a boot to go over the rod end (which is both suprisingly expensive and difficult to fit). The bearing size in the rod end is also larger than that of the other aftermarket kits which means lower load per square mm and hence should also contribute to increased long term durability. Lotusbits hope to eventually offer a kit for the gearshift end, but we need to get a used gearshift assy to experiment with. Does anyone have a spare they can sell us (will swap for one of our kits!)? We are also on the look out for an early SE cross shaft extension rod so we can look into making upgraded ones so that the support bearing can be deleted (reducing drag). Let me know if you can help. Cheers Malc
  8. 137&138 (Depends on date) 1) Malc Holmes 2) SE Turbo 3) +1 4) Tent 5) Milton Keynes
  9. Y ou can get replacement ECU's without memcal from South West Lotus Centre for
  10. Has anyone experience of/ a cure for a slight hesitation between touching the throttle and the revs actually picking up? It seems that the engine actually dies for a fraction of a second after touching the throttle and then picks up normally. The engine does not stall, but it does cause a delay in pick up and hence a reduction in accelleration when moving up through gears. The problem is more pronounced when cold, but doesn't totally disappear even when warm. The TPS is showing 0 (fully closed) at idle according to freescan and since all of the inlet system (plenum to inlet manifold and all in between) is new, then I have no concerns in this depatment. For reference, the engine is in good shape, is running standard chip ('89 SE) in the ECU and has the origional injectors (though WC engineering injectors are awaiting installation along with a #3 chip). EBPV removed and its vacuum pipe blocked. Any clues?
  11. Hi Glyn, Silicon based gasket/sealant is the recognised way of sealing it, but you may well have an alternative solution that does the job with the hydraulic sealant. Fortunately its not too big a job to do again if you still have a leak. Good luck Malc Holmes
  12. OK, got the answere now. Eventually managed to get through to Brian Angus at Lotus (an ex Lotus colegue of mine found his number for me). Brian confirmed the main rack body was from the Saab 900, the pinion and valve assy is from some other GM/Opel car and the track rod ends from Pontiac. The upshot is you can get a seal kit from Western Power Steering for a Saab 900 for
  13. Thanks for the help so far. The Saab link seems a strong possibility. I contacted Western Power Steering today and they drew a blank until I sent them the parts manula picture, more or less instantly they said Saab 9000. If this is indeed true the full seal and o-ring kit is
  14. Anybody had a steering rack for an S4 re-built or has re-built one themselves? A friend in Japan is trying to get the bushes/seals to allow his S4s rack to be fixed (well I am trying to find the parts for him). I have spoken to the technical service guys at Hethel and they don't do any re-build parts for the rack (despite what the parts list would seem to indicate) other than the rack gaitors. Anyobe know a Saginaw specialist who would be able to supply the parts? Obviously sending the rack from Japan to the UK to get it re-conned and then send it back is not ideal, so I realy need suggested parts suppliers. Thanks
  15. Hi Jason, Marlin Motor Engineers in Bletchley, Milton Keynes. I had problems with my injectors (where as good as dead after standing for years). I took them in and three hours later they where as good as new, complete with report on flow figures and spray pattern. The set of 4 cost me
  16. I had the same with my SE turbo. The sun roof being open seems to create a bit of a vacuum in the cabin and the small was actually being sucked in through the seat belt opening in the fire wall. The hose on my car turned out to be split near where it joins to the fuel tank and the T piece that connects to the charcoal canister, located behind the cover pannel on the inside of the RH butress near the filler . Worth taking a look at the pipe in this area too. I fixed the pipe and since then have had no nasty smells at all.
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