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    david mottram
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    502 Elite

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  1. Mine is three score years and ten and suffers from droop as well.
  2. Thanks Keith. I have a hoist so the underside is not an issue. Working under the dash is never easy, especially as I am now into my 70s.
  3. Sorry, double post. Could Admin please delete this duplicate
  4. I have made some progress on the refurbishment of our Elite and today for the first time I pressed the clutch pedal down. It is very heavy which I understand is normal. I have read quite a bit about broken cables and various fixes using bicycle sprockets and chain sections. I am seeking advice on the removal of the current cable. At the pedal end is it possible to remove the cable and wheel without too much trouble. I am guessing that I will have to remove the seat and assume the std Lotus position of laying in the footwell facing to the sky ! Is there an easier way or am I on the right track? Any tricks or hints welcome. David
  5. If the car is not used often it is worth fitting a battery cut-off switch on the negative terminal of the battery to eliminate any external source of discharge. Easy and cheap as chips.
  6. Well, four possibilities 1. Search at your motor factors for a different length rod end 2. If the male thread is bottoming, shorten it 3. If the female thread is running out of male thread, shorten it 4. Combination of 2 and 3 As long as there is a good length of thread engagement then all is well.
  7. Sell it as is for whatever you can get for it. Do not waste time trying to get it started or the like. If you need to move it to your place to enable the selling process just get it towed. D
  8. Well I had some time over Xmas and so with some help from my son (it will be his Elite) the engine was installed. We fitted a new gearbox mount and checked the driveshaft prior to slotting the engine in. It was very straight forward. The front bumper was off so give some extra reach for the engine crane. the car was supported by the hoist and the gearbox was adjusted with with trolley jack.
  9. Changing the belt is easy and cheap, a no-brainer really
  10. All the best to fellow wedge owners in the UK from Down Under. We read with great concern of the current covid situation you are facing. Fortunately he we have all but eliminated the virus as we head into summer and are hopeful that a vaccine will be readily available before we enter winter 2021.
  11. Can you source a non-assisted steering rack as some of the earlier cars used?
  12. Pete, I thought of dowelling the cam carriers but it is a lot of work as you have to get them properly aligned in the first instance and then mill a new hole through the carrier into the head so that the holes align. Even using a roll pin at the front is fraught, what is needed at both ends is a proper solid ground dowel in a proper size hole for proper location after they are aligned. In the end I thought that I would wing it and see what eventuates. Hopefully the miracle of modern sealants might solve the issue. I have glued the gasket to the carrier in the first instance then used hi-temp Three Bond Super Sealant. It has worked for me on other difficult situations so I am hopeful.
  13. Well to name a few easy ones............ 1. As the cylinder line is at 45 degrees to the horizontal, the thrust loads on the main bearing caps is concentrated on one main bearing retaining bolt (like a V8 engine). Most performance V8 engines have four bolt mains to counter the issue. Perhaps at only 80 HP/litre the stresses are insufficient to cause trouble but I wonder if the later turbo engines were 4 bolt mains. 2. There is no positive location via dowels between the cam carriers and the cylinder head. The fitting then becomes a real task as the cam wheels have to be clocked up against the crank to ensure perfect alignment of the camshafts with the crank. I know many people do not do that and just rely on a straight edge across the face of the pulleys but they should be dowelled. 3. The appalling cam cover fitting using tapered faces. What were they thinking. Due to the 45 degree angle the exhaust cam runs fully under oil due to the location of the drain-back hole, there are only six retaining bolts, too far apart, the wall thickness of the taper is too thin (given there is such a large distance between retaining bolts) and the exhaust cover is extremely close to the exhaust manifold which no doubt causes excessive expansion of that side of the cover due to the high temperatures involved. An engineering fail in my opinion. I will be trying to fit a heat shield in that area. That's all for now..... David We have been covid locked down here since early March so my time has been spent on restoring an old MG TC. I started in January and have almost finished. I drove it briefly for the first time last week. Lots of enjoyable garage time. I hope that you all keep well as the virus surges in the UK and Europe. We now have it under control with a running 14 day average at 2.4 cases per day and deaths down to just a couple per day (mainly in aged care facilities). Now the Govt has to focus on the economy to get it cranking and back to good health.
  14. Pete, yes I am using an electric water pump from Davies Craig, a local firm just down the road. The adjuster is the one that was on the engine. The actual adjustment is done on the the rear eccentric hexagon, then it is held in place with the front eccentric hexagon and finally locked up with the centre through bolt. I have no idea if it is correct or not but it was easy to adjust once I made a suitable open-ended spanner and I cannot see it ever backing off. This was my first exposure to a 907 engine and in my opinion it is not a good design. There are many weaknesses. That is our Type14 Elite. It already has a very nice Coventry Climax FWE engine in it so I do not have to squeeze the 907 into it 🙂
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