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dmottram

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    david mottram
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    502 Elite

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  1. The other test you can carry out is a proper leak down test whereby compressed air is introduced into the chamber via the spark plug hole when the piston has just reached TDC on the compression stroke. Most such test instruments have two gauges which show applied pressure and "retained" pressure. If the valves are defective you can hear a hiss of air at either the exhaust outlet of carb inlet. If the rings are defective you can hear a hiss of air into the sump (listen at a breather hose). Around 10% leak down is where one starts to ask questions.
  2. The hot test results look reasonable to me. I'd leave well alone. There is some wear evident n the ring dept but not enough to warrant a full strip down.
  3. Dion, the Webers are pretty straight forward to set up and tune. I had this pair of 40DCOE carburettors on the shelf. The factory used 45 mm Dellortos which will produce more power at the top end as the choke size can be bigger. I will be using 34 mm chokes (perhaps even 33 mm chokes) so the higher depression thus generated will actually make them easier to tune and more responsive to drive. These days Down Under we cannot drive fast on the public road (110 kph max on the motorways but lots and lots of 100 kph, 80 and finally 40 kph in many situations. The default limit is 50 kph in built up areas unless otherwise sign posted). I have a couple of other cars I race for the speed bug and am happy enough to just enjoy the roads at the maximum allowed.
  4. Richard, I agree that my airbox may well be less than optimum but the car will do everything I need it to do. My other Elite (Type 14) has Webers and performs well with a couple of simple air filters attached straight onto the Weber face with short trumpets inside.
  5. I have today fabricated an air box for my Elite. The engine was fitted with Zenith/Stromberg carbs but when I rebuilt the engine I decided to fit a pair of Webers which I had on the shelf rather than overhaul the existing units. I obtained an inlet manifold from a JH to which I fitted the Webers. Then I needed air filtration so I made a back plate to suit the twin Webers. Next I used some foam sheets to mock up a plug for a GRP airbox. Once it was done I glassed over it to produce an airbox. Getting air into the box was fixed by some 90 mm plastic plumbing pieces. I will fit a pod filter to at least filter the worst of the dust.
  6. I enjoy your approach to your Lotus, please continue the videos. Tell the trolls to "F k Off". Alternatively ask them if they have a Lotus and if so, can they contribute positively to the collective Lotus community rather than being negative and critical. They do not have to read your posts or watch your videos, they choose to do so. If they do not have a Lotus or wish to contribute then back to the start of my note....."FO". Like all trolls they would not have the gumption to say it to your face, preferring to hide behind the veil of anonymity.
  7. Best to use an annealed copper washer instead of a fibre washer if you want it to be free of oil leaks.
  8. A valve stuck open. Remove the valve covers and compare each one of a pair of valves. When an engine stops turning there are always one or more valves open and when sitting for so long corrosion can occur and cause a valve to remain open even when the camshaft position wold indicate that the valve(s) should be closed.
  9. Jono, Like you I think that our cars are an investment, but not necessarily a financial investment. My wife and I have a Seven Series 1 with Climax engine, a Super 95 Type 14 Elite, an Elan +2. an Elite Type 75 and an S1 Elise Type 111 in our Lotus collection. The only car which has not been a sound financial investment is the Type 75, but even it provides plenty of enjoyment for my son and me as we rebuild it together. I certainly do not mind spending the required money to bring it up to a standard whereby he and his young family can derive some Lotus enjoyment from it. Here in Australia the Type 75 is not well regarded because it looks so different and hence has a low dollar value. But, it will provide some real pleasure over the next few years. Good luck with your car. David
  10. With due respect, what has the cost of spare parts to do with the value of the car? Your situation regarding the cost of spares occurs every day, almost every time an old car is repaired. I am of the belief that to some extent we should be thankful that we can still buy any spare parts for cars which are approaching 50 years of age. Purchasing SH parts would also seem to me to be an action of last resort given the cost of labour to fit them.
  11. Mine is three score years and ten and suffers from droop as well.
  12. Thanks Keith. I have a hoist so the underside is not an issue. Working under the dash is never easy, especially as I am now into my 70s.
  13. I have made some progress on the refurbishment of our Elite and today for the first time I pressed the clutch pedal down. It is very heavy which I understand is normal. I have read quite a bit about broken cables and various fixes using bicycle sprockets and chain sections. I am seeking advice on the removal of the current cable. At the pedal end is it possible to remove the cable and wheel without too much trouble. I am guessing that I will have to remove the seat and assume the std Lotus position of laying in the footwell facing to the sky ! Is there an easier way or am I on the right track? Any tricks or hints welcome. David
  14. If the car is not used often it is worth fitting a battery cut-off switch on the negative terminal of the battery to eliminate any external source of discharge. Easy and cheap as chips.
  15. Well, four possibilities 1. Search at your motor factors for a different length rod end 2. If the male thread is bottoming, shorten it 3. If the female thread is running out of male thread, shorten it 4. Combination of 2 and 3 As long as there is a good length of thread engagement then all is well.
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