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About dmottram

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  • Name
    david mottram
  • Car
    502 Elite

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  1. I did the single piece dashboard on my Elan+2 many years ago in two pack polyurethane and a trick I used to stop the dust settling during the long drying time was to paint it upside down. I suspended it with thin wires such that the front face to be coated was on the underside. I then sprayed upwards onto the face..Perfect dust free result.
  2. A new pair looks to be serious dollars until you try and source a pair of the originals.
  3. I have not seen twin choke SU carburettors of any other size. There are of course many SU carbs of other sizes which are fitted as a pair (a la MGB/MGA/ etc) but not where there are two chokes in the one body (a la twin choke Webers or Dellortos). And then to fit a pair of such twin choke SUs on a four cylinder engine is really seeking power at whatever expense it takes.
  4. Not often you see a pair of twin choke SU carburettors. What other engines used them ? I know that the Coventry Climax FPF twin cam used them but there may be others.
  5. I am in Australia so sourced mine locally but I see that Demon Tweeks have them. They are certainly more expensive than the Ebay low cost items but they are an acceptable size (8 mm), the quality is excellent and they work. I do not have time or money for rubbish products. The only extra item I fitted was a large OD washer between the nut and GRP bonnet underside. I found that without it, as I tightened the nut it tended to dig into the GRP and I would loose the alignment required to ensure a good fit. I had some 3/4" ID , 1/8" thick, 2" OD washers which were perfect for the job. As I tightened the nut the alignment did not alter. The main thing in the fitting procedure is to do one side first and ensure it works well. Then on the other side, start with a small hole in the bonnet (say 1/2") to see the alignment of the pin. The factory brackets allow quite a lot of adjustment and I was able to then slowly enlarge the hole to the correct size with a burr. The plate that was welded onto the factory mechanism had the nut for the pin tack-welded on the underside so that it was effectively a captive nut which made life easy. Fabrication care is needed to ensure everything is the same on either size wrt the pin location. I wanted the press button receiver to be in the same position on the bonnet. I needed a 6 mm alloy plate (seen in the pictures) under the driver's side internal mechanism to ensure symmetry of the buttons. Since the alignment is critical it is also important to ensure that the forward hinge bolt fitting and hydraulic struts are all in good condition and operating well. It is a big slab of GRP that can move around a lot if the hinge bolts are worn or if one strut is stuffed. With care during the fabrication it all works well. I will see how it is over the longer term.
  6. My car was partially dismantled when I purchased it and as a consequence a few items were missing as expected. In particular the internal bonnet release mechanism as well as the pull cables were not with the car. I pondered fabricating them which I could do but elected to short cut that by fitting bonnet pins. I used part of the under-bonnet mechanism as a bracket for the pins and fitted the press button release component through the bonnet. It looks neat and discrete enough although clearly security has reduced (this aspect does not concern me). One downside is the need to press both buttons (not simultaneously) once out of the car rather than pulling one lever from inside the car. The pins are 5/16" so plenty of strength unlike many of the E-Bay specials which as 6 mm and look pretty puny.
  7. I have not topped up an Elite PS system as my car does not have one, but, if the spec sheets say that Type F supersedes Type G then use that. I don't actually think it all that critical as the pump and ram are very simple hydraulic affairs. D
  8. George, the go-to man in Australia for engine components is in Sydney. Ross Hockley.....aka..Jensen Motor Car Company....02 99381822. David
  9. George, welcome to the ownership club here in Australia. Despite the rain it looks a very tidy card. I am in Victoria and am currently working me way through recommissioning a 1976 Elite. Who did you purchase the Eclat from?
  10. So for the DIY person, how is the tension checked (without the various gauges that can be purchased at great expense). I have generally used the 90 degree twist method on other cars.
  11. Check the basics........... 1. does it have spark at the spark plug. 2. as you had the distributor out, has it been replaced in the correct orientation, are the leads in the correct order, is it timed correctly 2. does it have fuel If the answer to all of the above is YES then it should start and run. If you do not have spark at the plugs I would be looking to see if the points are adjusted correctly and wired correctly. If it is an electronic ignition then test by substitution. Good luck with the diagnosis and rectification.
  12. If they were like the period MGBs they would be turn indicators.
  13. OK, t'is back from the paint shop. It is a cheap and cheerful paint job in Carnival Red. It is quite acceptable. The engine is next. I have it out due to a bent valve. It needs a freshen up which I will do.........rings, bearings, gaskets and seals, timing belt and so on.. Then drop it back in.
  14. Thanks Clive. My car has been painted and is looking great. I hope to pick it up next week. The engine work has ground to a halt at the moment but will pick up in a couple of weeks once I source a few parts I need. David
  15. I'm new to Elite ownership. Where might I find the "Parts Spreadsheet" ?
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