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MAXR - The Lotus Forums #ForTheOwners Jump to content


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  1. It's very difficult to clean & to remove all the scuffs in the aluminium. I had two large pieces of Armourfend fitted where the heels go. But, I wish I had covered the whole floor pan area though, including the central tunnel cover near the clutch pedal.
  2. I've only been on track 3 times & I've not had any spins in gravel or accidents, but I've noticed that the tops of both of my front wings have multiple hairline cracks which has broken through the paintwork. One side has an area the size of a CD, whilst the other is the size of a 50p piece. It's obvious that it is from bits thrown up from the wheels. Surely we don't have to put up with this? Why didn't they put in front wheel arch liners or protection? It's a track day car & they've put protection in other areas. Has anyone else had this damage...The car has only been driven for 1100 miles. Is this something that you think Lotus may sort out? Cheers! P.S. The Rear Exhaust box came off completely on my first track day. I'm having problems with my battery dying all the time & now the cracks...Is this typical of a Lotus?
  3. Here is a letter taken from the VX220 Forum regarding Track day tyre pressures for R888's... It's very useful! ................................................................................ ................................................................................. ...................................................... My name is Alan Meaker, I am the Motorsport Manager for Toyo Tyres (UK) Ltd. I was at Rockingham on the Saturday 1ST March at the LOT trackday and worked with a couple of cars using our R888 tyre regarding pressures and tread temperatures. What I would like to do is to offer some advice on tyre temperatures and pressures and how to achieve the best from our tyres when taking part in either trackdays or racing. The R888 has a semi race construction (very stiff) and a race tread compound. The optimum tread temperature range is between 85C and 95C measured using a probe type pyrometer, and ideally a maximum difference across the tread of 9C. The maximum hot pressure we recommend is 40psi. Camber angles up to 5 degrees are permissible but the final setting will depend on tread temperatures. It is advisable to have as much positive castor as practical as castor induces a beneficial camber change during cornering. I recommend that the tyres be put through 2 heat cycles before hard use. The pressures you use will initially depend on the weight of the car, too little pressure on a heavy car can lead to over deflection of the tyre and subsequent failure. Below are some basic settings: VEHICLE WEIGHT COLD PRESSURE HOT PRESSURE Very Light < 800kg 17 - 22 psi 22 - 29 psi Light 800kg - 1000kg 20 - 26 psi 24 - 32 psi Heavy 1000kg - 1400kg 23 - 27 psi 28 - 40 psi Very Heavy > 1400kg 27 - 35 psi 37 - 40 psi As a tyre gets hotter the pressure increases, this is due to the moisture in the air. The cold pressure you set to achieve a desired hot pressure will depend on the conditions on the day i.e. ambient and track temperature, wet or dry. If the day/track is cold you will need to start with a higher cold pressure as the tyre will not get as hot therefore the pressure increase will not be so great. Hot pressures must be balanced side to side. Once the tyres have cooled you will find that you will have a difference in pressure side to side, if you have been racing on a right hand track you will find the offside pressures will usually be higher than the nearside. Changing hot inflation pressures by small amounts can be used to fine tune handling. Reduce Oversteer Reduce rear pressures or increase front pressures Increase Oversteer Increase rear pressures or reduce front pressures Reduce Understeer Reduce front pressures or increase rear pressures Increase Understeer Increase front pressures or reduce rear pressures Achieving the required tread temperatures will depend again on the conditions on the day i.e. ambient and track temperature, wet or dry. You often here competitors saying
  4. As I said it was my first time at Oulton Park & only the second time I
  5. Cheers, I have already strengthened it with some Fibreglass applied to the rear head area...
  6. My second proper track day in my 2-11 & first time at Oulton Park on 2nd June was just fabulous. The weather was perfect if a little hot. I also met another 2-11 owner there in their Orange Bobcat. BOT (Back on Track) in Guildford had setup the car for me & re done my Geo. Well, the track is fabulous & utterly engaging. There were around 65 cars on the day, 4 Radicals, an Ultima, GT3 RS
  7. I've just had a pair of CF seats fitted with fixed Aluminium runners & have mounted the seats perfectly where I want them & much, much lower. The runners fitted perfectly into the standard seat anchor locations & it has also saved over 19kgs in weight too!
  8. Scotty...After speaking with Jim @ 2ubular, I understand you had an exhaust system from him? I think... was it getting noisy? He is adding a new internal configuration on the rear silencer with a down turned exhaust tip for me...He's not yet willing to do a re packable rear box!....Maybe another engine swap would be a more logical option in a 2-11...perhaps my Vauxhall engine from my! JonnyW....Your X-bow looks great! It will be interesting to find out your how you find the 2-11 compared to the x-bow... Please post up your thoughts once you've had a good thrash... Max
  9. That's probably true; I have 10 cars at the moment. I don't usually keep my road going main car for more than 7-9 months. But I was hoping to keep my 2-eleven for at least two summers. I've just given the go ahead to get my Orange Vauxhall VX220 (Yes, I know it looks like an old chamfered brick, but, I love it as much as my 2-11, No bull! & it's more of a challenge to drive, more involving & sounds better too...!) It will be upgraded from its current 250hp to around 380+ with a new Harrop S/C and will be stripped to around 730kg. Also, my 2ubular 3" system for my 2-11 is arrives next week with a full Pro alloy charge cooler system + Sinclaire remap to follow shortly. My excuse.....You only live once! As for the X-bow, I don't think it's that expensive, but it was too much an unknown for me at the time. Max
  10. Well guys, I must be the only person who actually likes the x-bow. I guess it must be the architect in me. Anyway, I did test drive the x-box at Silverstone some time back & would have bought one if prices were the same as a 2-11. For a minimal outlay you can vastly increase the power of the Audi engine & drop & improve the suspension no end. I did buy a 2-11, but the x-bow is a fabulous, but expensive car. It is beautifully built, way better than a 2-11, and to my eye at least is more cutting edge. As for on track abilities, I guess it would be mostly down to the driver...
  11. Yes, It's a full wrap..Gloss black all over, then the green, then 3M to front, air intakes, door tops etc. The original paint scheme is fully protected & the vinyl will remove to hopefully leave a blemish free car again once i've finished with it. I was astonished how much it would cost to repaint just the front clam back to the original paint scheme. This was cheaper & makes it a little more individual.
  12. Ok, it's Finally finished! They couldn't get a good green match for the wheels, so they'll stay black now. Just the seats to be swapped with some CF ones, a new Aero kit & tow eyes.
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