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Everything posted by TheKevlarKid

  1. Cup2's?? I was recommended by lotus test driver (for track use) to set them at 2bar cold. Do a few laps to get heat in them (pressure will rise), then come in and balance them all down to 2bar again hot. At the end of the day they'll be around 1.6bar cold, you'll need to pump them up again for the journey home. Key thing is to start at 2bar cold.
  2. I'd be looking at torsen diff before any other mods, Datum can help you there!!
  3. Ali doesnt rust but it will corrode when placed next to steel, usual sign is pitting marks in the ali. Obviously you're bolting steel discs to ali bells...
  4. Dont forget to use a new set of nuts and bolts when replacing dics/bells, they're a one shot affair.
  5. The oem rads with plastic end caps can pop and often do. However, it can also be looked at as a fail safe mode... If the car decides to overheat in anyway then the first thing to go is the plastic ends caps and wont result in damage to the engine in any other way. When I was racing my 2-11 I ran off track at Cadwell park and over the freshly mowed grass at Mansfield. The front grill intake to the rad got completely blocked with grass cuttings and stopped airflow going to the rad. Another lap around the plastic end cap burst due to the system overheating. Had that been a full ali rad it wouldn't have popped and I could of easily ended up doing more serious damage to the engine. If it aint broke dont fix it...
  6. I must admit I havent tried the 4S yet. They came out just after I bought my current set of 4's. 'I've just watched the video you posted and its sort of a good comparison between them but not a perfect conclusion. The ford wouldn't have had a semi slick track tyre on from new, it would have come with a more road based tyre like the 4 or 4s. He goes on about the cup2 promoting a bit more oversteer but that'll mainly be down to the suspension being setup more for a road tyre. The cups will allow you to brake harder and corner harder which in turn will cause the car to pitch more under braking shifting weight to the the front and make it roll more in the corners, it will start to loose grip at either end depending on the weight shift going on. To get the best from the cups would require the cars suspension and roll bars to be uprated and stiffened up. Where as running a road based tyre on a more track focused set up wouldn't have quite as big effect as trying to run track tyres on a more road based car (if that makes sense). One thing I do like about Michelin tyres is their consistency throughout their life cycle. I've tried lots of different brands over the years, some are great for the first half of thier life but tail off and get skitty as the tread wears down (Pirelli), some are great but just don't last very long (yokohama), where as the michelin stay consistent down to the wear limits and last for a reasonable amount of time. Still my tyre of choice in whichever guise.
  7. Yes they are but they are not so forgiving as the PS4. Not everyone is a driving hero, uprating stuff like brake pads, tyres, suspension etc narrows the operating window. Faster yes, deeper and harder under braking, yes, quicker and more responsive in the corners, yes. but in doing that it's all the more easy to mess it up and/or not have the ability to extract the most from it all. Soften it up, less aggressive brakes and a set of tyres that let you know what is happening well before they reach their limit opens it up to a much wider audience to get fun from with it not being so edgy and requiring a much finer touch to get the best out of it.
  8. if it had a inertia switch it would have needed resetting manually, it wouldnt do it itself.
  9. @Hangar 111 Yep, track too. Like I say, the ps4 is great all round tyre. Road, track, wet, dry...the best you can buy imo if you want a tyre to do a bit of everything and do it well.
  10. @Hangar 111 PS4 is a great all round tyre, should be fine.
  11. One I took at Croft doing its thing...
  12. A697 always a good blast, It's one of my favourite early sat/sun morning runs. Morpeth to Greenlaw, turn left at the white metal railings in Greenlaw heading to Earlston (great stretch of road) then back down the A68 through Jedburgh calling into the Queens cafe under the Tyne bridge in Newcastle for breakfast. Bonzer
  13. So who was it I spotted just after 4pm today traveling up the A697 Coldstream road? You were just coming out of Powburn heading north. I was heading the other way and got a glimpse of you in amongst the line of traffic... @bingoking??
  14. @LotusLeftLotusRight I imagine you'll get the same reply, yes we can but minimum order of 50 sets (of each size) probably.... no harm asking the question though!
  15. I've got plenty of grey hairs if you like to do me a makeover... @Bibs Sorry, @Bruss Bibs, tried to edit the post, will let me delete the text but not the tag to you... strange.
  16. @Steffen_Leitgeb-LSWGmbh ask a question... Can you manufacture the rears with different off-sets? I have a GTE Evora which the fronts are all but the same as the regular Evora, the rears however have a offset of 13.5ET.
  17. Imo on a car that weighs as much as the Evora does the only 'real world' noticeable difference a 10kg lighter set of wheels is going to make is when you have to take them off the car and are physically having to handle them... They look nice though! I'd be buying them on style not on the basis I'm getting 0.14s of better acceleration in the mid range, my arse could never measure that difference, my eyes would see it though...
  18. I can assure you it will have non of that fitted. Seats, steering wheel, pedals, gear stick and a rev counter/speedo of some sorts. That will be all it needs!! I don't need a second living room...
  19. Yeah, something like that Andy!! These are a couple I've plucked for ideas...
  20. I'm not 100% sure myself yet. I've slowly been acquiring evora parts over the last few years. I've got most of the main mechanical components now and thought I've got to do something with them. Thought about a 4-11 type build but doing bodywork and getting it to fit and look good will be a challenge and will also pile the weight back on. Main idea running at the minute is to build up the rolling chassis then have a exposed rollcage design that creates the final shape which will be easiest to achieve. Also thought about doing a 3seater with a central driving position and 2rear pax which would work very well but it would be a bit more of a challenge and would need custom parts making. Main ones being the steering rack and column. Problem being I'd never be allowed to take pax out on track if I did that hence keeping it 2 setas and lhd as those are the parts I have on the shelf ready to go.
  21. Lol, I think I'll be calling myself 'busted' by the time it's finshed.. It does pinch in at the front, its going to be lhd so doesn't effect foot positioning quite as bad.
  22. You've heard of the Ariel Nomad? I'm going to build a Lotus Gonad...
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