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Jack

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Jack last won the day on November 18 2018

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About Jack

  • Rank
    LOTUS

More Info

  • Name
    Jack
  • Car
    2008 2-Eleven, 2015 V6 CupR
  • Location
    Spring Mountain Motorsports Ranch, NV

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  1. I have heard the same and seen some wheel failures which were attributed to powder-coating. Apparently, the process can weaken the structural integrity of the wheels.....painting would be the safer route to take.
  2. @Antflies--Anthony --- [email protected] and [email protected] are both great. Brake pads are a personal preference, I tired the CL's long ago on my 211 and didn't like them. I have also experimented with different compounds and brands on the V6 over the past 4 years...never felt the need to go with a more aggressive pad on the rear with the CupR. Ultimately settled on the XR4 compound Cobalt pads...more aggressive pads were "too" aggressive upon initial application. This resulted in over-slowing the car, due to the vacuum booster acting as an on/off switch....modulation was virtually impossible. Hence my recent decision to ditch the booster and go with a dual master/brake-cage setup. For that setup, [email protected] suggested running a more aggressive Cobalt compound. We will have 3 CupR's at Spring Mountain running the non-boosted peddle-box which really increases the resolution of the brake peddle.
  3. Updating my braking thread......it took me awhile, but I thought I deserved a proper B'day present.... so, time to ditch the vacuum booster and go to a dual master brake cage setup.....work is in progress....photo worth another 1000 words. Looking forward to learning how to brake anew.
  4. @Antflies--Anthony, I highly recommend Cobalt pads, they have the correct sizes for the V6 with 2-piece rotors and several different compounds. Conversion chart for selection of compound based upon competitor pads...... http://www.cobaltfriction.com/category_s/1911.htm You will want AP7 for the front and AP27 for the rear -- even though it's the same AP caliper front and rear -- the Cup 2-piece rotors for the rear have a larger diameter hat than the fronts, hence the need for a slightly narrower annulus for the rear pads...51mm vs 55mm, (rear vs and front, respectively) to be exact. Otherwise the rear pad backing plate will make slight contact with the center hat bobbins. I recommend compound XR4, but you can decide if you want a more aggressive compound Order info: Cobalt XR4 | AP7 | AP Racing CP6600D55 | 16.8mm Cobalt XR4 | AP27 | AP Racing CP6600D51 | 16.8mm
  5. Congrats Greg! Enjoy it to the max. Let the "mods" begin. Great talking with you yesterday....let's keep in touch.
  6. Best way to end 2019 -- [email protected] Mountain Motorsport Ranch on one of the longer, more technical track configurations. Car driven by my coach for reference/data analysis. Even had the car on old tires and he turned the fastest sports car lap of the race weekend. While I turned the fastest sports car lap in competition over the weekend, I was still several seconds off my coach's pace. Good to know that I don't need to buy that Ginetta G55 GT4 just yet; at least until I can exploit the full potential of the CupR I apologize for the video quality -- I was messing with the video settings on the SmartyCam right before this run and really screwed things up.
  7. I cheated..... ...... I know, it's not the same thing -- different dash for non-street car.
  8. Don't waste your time helping this guy......LOL.... Love you Eldon.
  9. @Mark030358Moroso pan has a 1/8" NPT fitting for an oil temperature sender.... I'm using a sensor sold by AiM.
  10. Remote buttons are great -- wonderful option from AiM....... http://www.aimsports.com/en/products/remote-buttons-interface/index.htm Love my MXS dash/data logger. Car is beautiful...enjoy.
  11. Got this reminder on Facebook that my CupR was ready for its plane flight to the USA. Photos courtesy of the fine chaps at Lotus Headquarters. I guess I can't say my car has never seen rain ...... getting wet awaiting loading on to the lorry. Can't believe I've owned this baby for 5 YEARS!
  12. Maxi, give it a try and do change the trans fluid often. I've been using the combo on my 2-Eleven since new (2008) on a preventative basis and KNOCK-ON-WOOD, I've never had a synchro issue on my C60x trans. Running stock synchros but with SSC stronger 3rd and 4th gears plus OS Giken LSD in the 2-Eleven.
  13. Maxi, the addition of a little, up to a quart, of the synchromesh additive pictured above (there are 2 versions -- you want the one that says "Friction Modified") did make a difference on the Toyota C60x transmissions used in the S2 models when combined with MT90. MTL ( a 75W-80 grade) would not be the ticket. The combo of fluids was a cure for a 2nd and 3rd gear grinding/crunching many were experiencing with those trannys (assuming the synchros were not already destroyed). The additive increased the "bite" of the synchros to help them do their job. Anecdotally, we also found that changing the trans fluid often appeared to keep the trans happy. By often, I mean with every oil change, change the trans fluid....cheap insurance. We picked up on this "secret sauce" solution (combining MT90 with some AC Delco Synchromesh) from the Honda guys that were having problems with grinding, especially into 2nd gear, on the S2000 cars.
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