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Jack last won the day on November 18 2018

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About Jack

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    2008 2-Eleven, 2015 V6 CupR
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    Spring Mountain Motorsports Ranch, NV

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  1. More of a track-car solution -- move the buttons to your removable steering wheel for easy reach with a wireless system. Clearly, this is a more expensive option, but putting "buttons" on the dash or binnacle cowling would not work for me once on track and strapped in, if I wanted to change "pages" on screen for example---I guess my arms are too short. Of course, with this system, you can also handle other functions like radio, traction control, even paddles mounted to the steering wheel.
  2. @alias23: Looking good Imran! Couple suggestions, if I may w/o being too impertinent, regarding the config for your SmartyCam -- easy changes in RaceStudio 3: 1) "Throttle bar."... you should calibrate/set the range ..... it's not showing full throttle when I'm certain you are. Default setting may be 0-100, but a 100% for your car may be 86% or some other number. You can determine such by using live measures, pressing the accelerator to the floor (engine not running but key in stage 2 and see what % number pops up. 2) I would add "gear dtg" to your config... may have to do a math channel for PreCalcgear, but I think you've already done that for you AiM dash, so you would just have to assign that channel (precalcgear) to the SmartyCam stream function "GEAR" 3) Add the "best lap/Num/Time" label to your config, you might find it useful to have your best lap time displayed on the video, while it's also displaying current lap timing. 4) Add the "date/time dgt" to config. 5) I think you can get the "Brake bar" to register -- probably need to pair the appropriate channel from your dash/ECU protocol with the SmartyCam function...all done in RaceStudio 3 for your dash config. All the best!
  3. Kristof, I did have a wide band O2 sensor installed on my CupR and have been logging A/F ratios since 2015.....very helpful in highlighting potential lean issues before causing engine damage. I highly recommend that "mod". As a result, with some help from Lotus, we discovered early on in 2015 that the carbon MAF tube was causing a lean condition. We installed an aluminum tube (without an air straightener) and changed out the HKS filter to a ITG filter -- subsequent testing showed good A/F ratios. Turned out that the carbon tube, while smooth on the outside has by its nature a very rough, uneven internal structure and that, indeed, was causing the A/F problem. I'm sure we've all heard the saying ... "lean is mean, until it's not". As an aside, we also found out (from reliable factory sources who shall remain unnamed) that originally when Lotus was doing initial tuning on the CupR, they were using an aluminum MAF tube w/o straightener and all was good. The change to a carbon MAF tube was a "marketing" decision and no testing was done which would have revealed the unintended AFR consequences.... after all, carbon looks cool....crazy I know. If interested, you can see my A/F numbers (as well as post-blower IATs) on the attached video...look for the AFRs when the car is at full throttle throughout the RPM range in various gears .... you will have to be the judge on the whether the AFRs are OK. For reference, I do run unleaded 100 octane fuel and currently have 12,000 track/racing miles on the car, virtually all with the intake shown below which is very similar to Imran's, FWIW.
  4. Nothing to do with aesthetics. The goal -- get the car down to 95-100mm front, 105-110mm rear and improve over all handling. However, lowering a car's center of gravity is's NOT. Lowering our cars too much can have the opposite effect of reducing grip unless you can lower the roll center while still maintaining favorable geometry and camber change throughout the functional range of the suspension travel -- we don't want to drop the roll center below ground. Hence the need to change the uprights. Please.....Eldon....I'll be good.
  5. .....Race Uprights -- Lower is better...
  6. Looks like you are running quite rich...any idea what your A/F ratios are?
  7. Lotus must have spec'd the CupR with X-Trac to have an LSD so it would handle worse than the standard Cup.....just kidding.
  8. @Mark430 -- Mark, can you take a couple photos of your configuration setup as displayed in RS3 Analysis before you attempt to transfit your new configuration to your is are examples of the two pics I would be interested in seeing....taken of my config for an MXS.....
  9. I have heard the same and seen some wheel failures which were attributed to powder-coating. Apparently, the process can weaken the structural integrity of the wheels.....painting would be the safer route to take.
  10. @Antflies--Anthony --- [email protected] and [email protected] are both great. Brake pads are a personal preference, I tired the CL's long ago on my 211 and didn't like them. I have also experimented with different compounds and brands on the V6 over the past 4 years...never felt the need to go with a more aggressive pad on the rear with the CupR. Ultimately settled on the XR4 compound Cobalt pads...more aggressive pads were "too" aggressive upon initial application. This resulted in over-slowing the car, due to the vacuum booster acting as an on/off switch....modulation was virtually impossible. Hence my recent decision to ditch the booster and go with a dual master/brake-cage setup. For that setup, [email protected] suggested running a more aggressive Cobalt compound. We will have 3 CupR's at Spring Mountain running the non-boosted peddle-box which really increases the resolution of the brake peddle.
  11. Updating my braking took me awhile, but I thought I deserved a proper B'day present.... so, time to ditch the vacuum booster and go to a dual master brake cage is in worth another 1000 words. Looking forward to learning how to brake anew.
  12. @Antflies--Anthony, I highly recommend Cobalt pads, they have the correct sizes for the V6 with 2-piece rotors and several different compounds. Conversion chart for selection of compound based upon competitor pads...... You will want AP7 for the front and AP27 for the rear -- even though it's the same AP caliper front and rear -- the Cup 2-piece rotors for the rear have a larger diameter hat than the fronts, hence the need for a slightly narrower annulus for the rear pads...51mm vs 55mm, (rear vs and front, respectively) to be exact. Otherwise the rear pad backing plate will make slight contact with the center hat bobbins. I recommend compound XR4, but you can decide if you want a more aggressive compound Order info: Cobalt XR4 | AP7 | AP Racing CP6600D55 | 16.8mm Cobalt XR4 | AP27 | AP Racing CP6600D51 | 16.8mm
  13. Congrats Greg! Enjoy it to the max. Let the "mods" begin. Great talking with you yesterday....let's keep in touch.
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