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[email protected]_

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  1. I would like to change mine as well. Just PM'd Bibs.
  2. Apart from widening the frame rail cavity enough to accommodate the mount + washers I can't see it fitting. I didn't want to force open the cavity that much so I left it alone. As Paul says, the lower exposed bushing/hole/bolt/bracket did have washers. I also added an oversized washer to help prevent the bushing from moving forward again. I also added a rubber washer to help with vibration.
  3. I wonder why this is happening more & more? is it because the cars need more attention as they get older and unless your handy with a wrench/spanner things get expensive very quickly.
  4. Hi Phil I had the same problem when I refitted my gearbox mounts last week. I just could not get the mount back in the frame rail with the 4 washers in place. I hate to say this but....I gave up out of frustration and fitted the mounts minus the washers not sure if this was a good idea or not. I haven't torqued things down yet, as I still have work to do, so I can drop them out again if those washer really need to be there.
  5. Socialism has come to America. Pure and simple. Enough said.
  6. The bushings on the right gearbox mount were also OK. So I just had the inner collars on the lower bushings re-centered. Top image is the right engine mount before the gearbox bushings were re-centered. Lower image is after. Quite a bit of difference.
  7. We would have normally got our 1st snow of the season by now in South Dakota but it's a barmy 73f and clear blue skies. I am sure this will be short lived as the weather here at this time of the year is so unpredictable. We can get a heavy snow fall one day and the next day it will be 75f. Last May we had a blizzard, about 8 inches of snow fell in 4 hours. 2 days later not a sign it had happened and we were all working around in t-shirts and shorts.
  8. I pulled the left tranny mount this evening and to be honest the bushings don't seem that bad. The rubber is in good condition with no splits. The lower bushing inner collar has clearly moved forward a little. I think I will try having it re-centered, as Brian suggested, and see how it looks. Jeff at JAE also suggest this as the bushings are getting expensive. The only place I found for the stabilizer bar / engine brace is Dave Bean. They also have an upgraded engine mount that is supposedly made from a more durable compound that looks exactly like the standard one but it's twice the price. RD price for standard mount $28.00 Dave Bean Heavy Duty mount $59.99 Anyone had any experience with the Dave Bean mount? Did not call JAE on a price for the mount as it's Friday and they are closed. Brian let me check my manual and see if I have the page(s) that ref the heat shield. I have the S1/S2 shop & parts manuals but none of the service bulletins. If I don't have the page(s) I will take you up on your offer. Thanks.
  9. Giorgio, Yep I figured I would have to change the gearbox bushings. Thanks for the link, I was looking for that earlier. Cheers Gavin.
  10. I grabbed a quick photo of the right engine mount & the right gearbox mount I'm not sure how much of the engine mount deformation is a result of the left mount being knackered but I can clearly see the lower bushing on the gearbox mount has shifted forward. Does the gearbox mount warrant removal and repair? or is it still OK?
  11. Iain - would be great to see what you fab'd up. Tony - as always, an informative solution. Thanks guys
  12. 1) Esprit S1 2) Aston Martin DB5 3) TVR Griffith (90's version) 4) TVR 420 SEAC (The ultimate 80's Bad Boy) 5) Lotus Elite 503 (It's so 70's it can't help being cool)
  13. does anyone have a photograph of the heat shield? thanks.
  14. Winter 'to do' list just got bigger The mount is 18 months old with just under 3000 miles on it. It is so toasted that if you touch it it just crumbles. There is no heat shield on the car. I suppose it got lost or did it ever have one?. Now what to do? - replace with the same or invest in the SJ upgrade?
  15. Unfortunately there is no Lotus mechanic for 400 miles so I will have to do the repair myself. I only get a few days a month to play with the car which makes repairs unfortunately slow going. @ T not a prob, know other things are going on.
  16. I think I got lucky. While looking things over and trying to work out why my cam belt was running against the alternator bracket I discovered the pivot pin, I think that is what it is called, was working it's self out. you can also see the groove that the alternator bracket has cut into the belt and the shavings from the belt. The belt, tensioner bearing and bushings were replaced in Aug 07 by a lotus dealer. They had some replacement bushings made out of bronze as the said the nylon ones were no longer available. Cost the PO $2k+ for the work. I'm just glad I caught it in time. Time to call SJ's for the tensioner rebuild kit.
  17. I hope they post it online so those not in the UK can see it.
  18. It would seem that none of the U.S. S1/S2/S3 suppliers carry a genuine Lotus belt. Dave Bean sells a generic Gates but not Lotus packaged/branded/spec'd. So I guess for complete piece of mind I need to call SJ's. Might as well order their belt tensioner kit as well.
  19. That's good to know as I'm doing a conversion to Dellortos over the winter.
  20. Not knowing what your budget is, but Sports Car World in TX have a G Turbo rolling body for sale, no engine or gearbox. Link
  21. Fuel line (pipe) deterioration. Carb leaks. Fuel spit back combined with after-market air filters (Lotus design keeps it all contained, pancake style opens it up to ignitions sources) Now I know why the air filter seal is such a tight fit. I replaced my fuel lines from the pump to the carbs as soon as I got the car. I also doubled up on the hose clamps on the lines going from the T piece to the carbs as an added insurance. Every week I check for leaks and make sure sure nothing has vibrated loose. I think fire and a cam belt snapping are the biggest concerns for all G car owners.
  22. Neither JAE or R.D. sell a genuine Lotus belt. Both offer generic belts out of the UK, not Gates, and are priced at $22.00 & $29.00. I will check with Dave Bean and see if they have a genuine belt. If not I will see what SJ's offer.
  23. I'm pretty sure that this car was listed on I did inquire about it in May/June before I got my Esprit. From memory the seller was asking $9500 then dropped it to $8500. If it is the same car, then the car has been in the same family since the early 80's. It was originally the seller's father inlaw's. Car was from California then went to Canada. Spent a long time in storage before heading south to Monroe NC. The engine was rebuilt after being removed from storage. I also think it had paint this year as well. You can see that the front bumper has been painted. I was very tempted but when I got a shipping quote it would of cost about $2k to get it too me. It was back when diesel was $4.75 a gallon. If I could of got it shipped for about a grand and got the seller down some more I probably would of got it. I just checked and yep it's the same car. Ad is still there but says the car is sold.;?...leadExists=true I wonder why it's for sale again so quickly?
  24. From what I have read the timing belt cross refs with the Nissan V6 3.0L engines as fitted to the Maxima & 300Z models, Trapezoidal (square teeth): --------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tim Engel To: [email protected] Sent: Friday, November 16, 2007 8:44 PM Subject: Re: [s1S2S3owners] WHAT CAM/TIMING BELT DO I USE Timing Belts, 4-Cylinders Basically, what you want is a 26.4mm (1.039", ~ 1 1/32") wide belt, 133 teeth long. Before 1986, trapezoidal teeth A907E0191Z Trapezoidal tooth belt, pre-1986 Gates 5146, 25.4mm (1.0") wide, 133 teeth. The Nissan VG30E SOHC 3.0 liter V6 engine uses a similar belt, and it evolved like the Esprit's. The very early engines used a trapezoidal tooth belt similar to Lotus 9XX engines prior to 1986. After August 1994, the VG30E used an 8mm HTD belt. The only difference between the Lotus belt and the Nissan belt is that the Nissan part is 1mm (.039") narrower... 25.4mm (1.00") wide verses 26.4mm (1.039", ~ 1 1/32") wide for the Lotus. If you can't find a direct Lotus replacement belt, the Nissan one will work. --------------------------------------------------------------------- I could not find Gates Part#5146 here in the States and when I entered the Nissan info it came back with Part# T104. Gates Part# T104 Belt / Sprocket Specifications Number of Teeth (Cog)133 Pitch (In.) .375 Pitch (mm) 9.5 Pitch Length (In.) 49.875 Pitch Length (mm) 1267 Top Width (In.) 1 Top Width (mm) 25 Construction Material HCR (Hi Temp Neoprene) Product Attributes Profile Type Trapezoidal Timing Marks Yes Top Color Black INFINITI M30 (1990 - 1992) MERCURY VILLAGER 1993 NISSAN 200SX (1987 - 1988) NISSAN 300ZX (1984 - 1989) NISSAN 300ZX 2+2 (1984 - 1989) NISSAN D21 PICKUP (1986 - 1994) NISSAN D21 PICKUP SE (1991 - 1994) NISSAN D21 PICKUP XE 1994 NISSAN MAXIMA (1985 - 1991) Price $10.93 The Contitech belt that cross-ref was TB#104 TB 104 Teeth: 133 Length: 49 7/8" / 1266.8mm Width: 1" / 25.4mm
  25. Scary stuff. Both driver & passenger of the truck died.
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