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martiy

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Everything posted by martiy

  1. Nice to hear from you all. LEt me know if ya want to organize any type of meet.
  2. I always use JAE in California (2002 Rims, Air Filter, Cats, Exhaust etc.) and they have been excellent. Speak to Jay Makwana.
  3. Scott, I am thinking about performing some work on my car over the winter; 1. A cam belt change (although I have a free one from Lotus, it'll cost too much to ship the car to B.C. to have it done) 2. Injector Replacement. 3. Lotus Red Race ECU install. 4. Serpentine belt change. I have already done plugs, plug wires, air filters, cats, exhaust. Are you interested in this?
  4. Hey Fellas, I live in St. Albert and own a 2000, Azure Blue Esprit.
  5. 2000 Lotus Esprit V8 s/n SCCDC0823YHA10096 Robert Martineau - Edmonton, Alberta Canada
  6. The noise from my bulkhead happened more on accel / decel; however ultimately it did start to happen on rough roads as well.
  7. This sounds like it could be the wooden firewall clunking around. Mine had this and made clunking noises at the same times as you describe. It is a common problem and very easy fix with these cars and hopefully that's all it is. Just search the forum for this problem for further detail
  8. I had the same code reader from Innova and experienced exactly the same connection problems, so I contacted Innova and after several emails back and forth, they sent me a new, upgraded code reader which utilizes different source software and it worked fantastic. They do know of the problems with connecting to the Esprit, so I would suggest you contact them and see if they can do the same for you as they did for me. All and all I found them to be very professional and had excellent customer service, so I am sure once you contact them, they will have you sorted out in no time.
  9. :wallbash:I have trying to locate the source of why the right bank on my car idles poorly (popping & lumpy etc) while the left bank seems to run perfectly smooth and I also recently threw a P1301 CEL on cyl #1, so I started with a plug change. The regular NGK's were not available in my area so I was forced to choose between the NGK Iridium and Autolite Iridiums as alternatives and I eventually chose the NGK's (based solely on reputation). I am happy to report that once I installed them, the car seemed to idle smoother (right bank is still popping once warm though), and its also smoother (seem more rev happy) under load as well. I wasn't expecting that much difference because the old plugs were not worn too bad (still had 0.035 gap consistantly, and good color). I would definately recommend them if you don't mind the price ($11.50 CAD / plug). I also tried swapping my O2 sensors from the right side over to the left to see if it was the sensors causing my right bank idle probs, but alas, I swapped them and the car ran exactly the same with the same popping from the right bank. I initially thought this was a lean condition, however recent posts led me to believe that it is indeed a rich condition. The only other thing that I can think of, that may be causing this, is dribbling injectors (probably secondaries) or a bagged IACV, both of which are not very attractive to replace. I do have the service manual with the procedures to remove & replace the manifold, but it feels like it could be a big job. HAs anyone removed their manifold and if so what advice would you give to a person performing the procedure for the first time? Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks Group.
  10. martiy

    P1301 Code

    Recently I got a CEL come on and stayed on for the week; however I drove the car yesterday and the CEL was off again. Well I was finally able to get my code reader to connect and pulled a P1301, misfire on cylinder number 1. When the CEL was on it felt like the car wasn't running perfectly smooth (I think), but it wasn't altogether bad either, no limp mode or anything like that. I plan on checking and replacing the plugs but I am not sure which cylinder is number 1, can anyone tell me which cylinder it is? Also....any suggestions on plug types etc? Mucho Gracias
  11. I've had this "pop" both with a full stock exhaust system and with after market high flow cats and straight pipes. This problem for me is only at idle and from what I can tell hasn't affected the performance or is noticable under load. I haven't tried swapping injectors yet as it seems like a pretty big job to remove the intake manifold, although I have been considering trying it.
  12. I've often read that installing the red race ECM or high torque chip etc has smoothed out alot of cars which had previous poor idling quality, I wonder if that may smooth out this lumpy, popping idle we are experiencing/
  13. hmmm thats interesting, I have been assuming that it was a result of a lean condition rather than a rich environment. Especially when Pred mentioned that the short term fuel trim was moving up and down like normal on his left side (at idle), but the right didn't move from 0, so I assumed that since it wasnt moving up, the right side was getting less fuel thus creating a lean condition (It definately sounds like a lean "Pop"). Hehe or maybe I've had too many beers lol. Regardless, like Pred, this little nagging idle issue is totalling annoying, not because it has affected power or drivability or anything like that, but rather because no one seems to be able to figure it out You know its almost like the ECM isnt adjusting the right bank short term fuel trim at idle kinda like something is slightly stuck and only when alot more fuel is introduced it begins to work.
  14. No codes have been thrown on my car, just a lumpy, popping type idle from the right bank; however according to the shop manual (If I am remembering correctly) if it ever got worse it may throw a P0173 / 174 code. If it was a faulty EGR wouldn't it affect both banks and not just one side or the other?
  15. Well, I checked my O2 Sensors last night and they all seem to be in the right locations and using the right leads. Mine are still labeled from the factory RH PRE, RH POST etc so I think the theory about swapped O2 sensors isn't the problem in my case. Anyone have any other potential areas to check.
  16. This seems very plausible to me sincein my case the previous owner did have the exhaust replaced under warranty and when I switched to high flow cats and the center exhaust I just plugged them back in the way I found them. I will have to try this simple test tomorrow as I have to go under and tighten my exhaust clamps again as they seem to have rattled loose ........Perm Locktite here I come. Oh BTW I have uploaded a MOV of my exhaust doing its popping thing, keep in mind although you cannot tell from the video the popping is definately coming from the right bank only http://members.shaw.ca/bkmartineau/P5303918.mov
  17. John I don't mean to be selfish, but in a stupid way I'm kind of releived someone else has the same problem No offence mate. It just assures me my car is not aone off freak never to be solved lol. Of course I will post anything I discover for you all. John
  18. I would be very interested to know what you eventually find with this problem as I have the exact same popping coming off the right bank exhaust as well. Unfortunately I have not been able to get my OBDII scanner to successfully connect with the on board computer, It just keeps giving me error "unable ot connect" messages. I too have swapped out the standard exhaust for the center exit and the high flow cats, although the popping and lumpy idle on the right bank was there prior to the change. Additionally, it also seems to be happening only at idle and not when the car is revved up or while driving. Please post with your findings
  19. I had exactly the same clunking recently, so I searched the forums and found this excellent post so I decided I would try this with the bulkhead bolts. I gotta say that the repair was very simple and just like previous posters have said, WHAT A DIFFERENCE! Its like night and day, the car feels incredibly tight & solid. I am so pleased with the result that I had to post a "Thank You" to Swiss V8 & the rest of the community for providing such valuable information. I would never have guessed that this noise was coming from the firewall, nor would I been able to locate and identify the guilty fasteners very easily. Thanks again! PS The only thing I did differently than Swiss V8 was that I used a high speed Dremel rotary tool equipped with a 2" cut off saw to shorten the tubes rather than a hacksaw and I must say it worked very nicely. Also on the passenger side of the car (due to the child seat anchor points), I was required to have a socket on both the engine side and the passenger side compartments (Bolts were not welded to the bracket) so what I did was, on the engine compartment side, I used a long torque wrench fitted with a deep 10mm socket and gently propped it up against the engine for the moment. Due to the length of the torque wrench I was able to reach into the engine compartment and hold the torque wrench firmly in place while simultaneously tightening the head of the bolt in the passenger compartement with a 2nd socket wrench. Seemed to work very well that way, so it is possible to perform this job solo. Total Cost = $2.99 for rotary cutoff saw blades & 2.5 hrs of my labour
  20. Last week when I pulled into a gas station and was shifting from 1st gear to reverse, the bottom of the two shift mechanisms touched slightly and popped the ball outta the shift ball socket (2000MY see below for circled area) and although I could shift from side to side, I was unable to put the car in any gear. Anyways I was able to pop the ball back into the socket with a pair of needle nose pliers, no big deal, but now I am thinking that they shouldnt ever touch (they only come close when shifting into reverse)and therefore am planning on adjusting the cables as detailed in the shop manual. I do have a couple questions for anyone who may have some experience in this area. 1. Is this a common problem? 2. Any easy way of prising the shifter ball joints out of the sockets to facilitate adjustment? 3. any other adjustment tricks to make the job easier? 4. Both sockets on the front and rear of the cable are sitting at an angle rather than horizontal exposing more of the ball. Shouldnt these sockets be straight?
  21. Hehe....The one part I left out of my last message was...that I am originally from Edmonton and remember watching (and Cheering) the Oilers of the 80's whup some Flames A$$! lol A Western Canada Chapter would be nice! BTW...it would be very tough to do 200kph in Saskatchewan as it would scare the crap outta all the horse and buggy drivers..(Insert Banjo music here)
  22. Another Albertan here !!! l live in Edmonton now....moved from Calgary in 2005
  23. I was thinking that the install in Dermot's S4S looked very clean so I was planning on going that route through the cigarette lighter as well. Unfortunately he didn't have a step by step install guide for an ignition newbie like myself. Thanks for posted links I will have a look at that install and see what happens.
  24. Does anyone have a step by step guide for installing a push button starter?
  25. I just got a reply from Equus Innova customer / technical service and it was as follows "Dear Customer, We have never had anyone with a Lotus call before but I do not know if anyone has successfully linked the reader to a Lotus. You can try updating the 1003c code reader off of the internet and then plug in the reader after the engine is running. This should allow the tool to link. - Technical Support" I haven't tried this approach yet, but I am planning on doing it tomorrow night after work and I'll post my results.
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