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    Exige 350
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  1. How did you wire the sub? Presume you have used the sub out via RCA and then into the loom of the sub? Check you have sub set to on in the audio settings screen, otherwise you are not sending a signal. Same for the rears. Also go yo listening position and make sure you are OK there Go to speaker level (not just fader) and modify the DB levels there, they changes to speaker levels are in addition to the fader, so play away Failing that, go to factory reset just to be sure!
  2. Didn't do a guide, cost I did it late at night. The procedure is the same with or without cruise as the cruise is just a small loom outside of the stalk, not inside it. Just remove the stalk from the car, cut it at the bottom near the switch, take out about a cm (borrowed pic but I wrote on, but gives you the gist). Then drill the core of the stalk to dowel it. Epoxy it back up together and that's it. Leave to cure for about 24 hours. Alternative steps: 1.Get so excited at you achievements you only leave it to cure for about 30 mins, fit it, snap it then get all depressed 2. Leave it to cure 24 hours, excitedly fit it, then realise it's about 1mm too long so still fouls it. Pull it all apart again, cut it, shave of another 1mm then refit, repeat optional step 2 at this point for maximum effect
  3. With the head unit take out the cage so you can squeeze your hand in, push all the looms behind the clocks, assuming the RCA and camera signal are long enough you can push them all to one side behind there (there's quite a bit of room, then when they are hanging out by about 6 inches mount the tuner box. When mounting the tuner box put the cage on the headhunt so you can get it mounted. Put the tuner in with dab arial/splitter (if you can wrap the tuner box in anti rattle tape) then rest the head unit on the dash with the single tuner box connecter. Pull the cage along it, mount that in the dash, then slowly push the cables toward the drivers side of the dash, and with a bit of wiggling it goes in. If you still can't make it fit. Remove the shroud, stack cover and unscrew the clocks. Cover the clocks and rest it on the steering wheel. Now at the loom mount a couple of pieces of string, poke those out of the hole for the clocks. Slowly pull the look into the dash via the strings and it will suck itself in there. Then just pop the headhunt whilst pulling the cable out the way from behind. Or removethe dash and lay it out behind the clocks Don't forget the handbrake trigger (either relay or switch) otherwise you can't use it one the move. You should have about 2cm of space directly behind the headhunt, so really it needs to be pulled out behind the clocks on the drivers side.
  4. Yep, ACF50 useful to stop corrosion, especially if you drive unsalted roads. I got yellow stickers made up, went for the two designs as I couldn't decide until they were on the car Went for yellow outline so it hid a bit more (ignore the dust):
  5. The lap belts should have the strap attached to the buckle on the centre line of the car (i.e against the console), with the ASM straps on the same side. The shoulder belts are labelled Left and Right (small paper dots on the shoulder strap buckles. However if they accidentally mixed up the lap belts from each box, this could be misleading. The ASM stitching needs to be on the inside. If you crash and the ASM breaks, the driver and passenger smash their heads into each other if the are on the outside (body twists in) - certain head injury. If on the inside strap the body twists to the outside of the car, and at worse it hits the very breakable window. Quoting from Scroth: Why do I need a left and right side belt (driver/co-driver)? The patented asm® system is designed to be installed on the in-board side of the vehicle. The asm® system is located in the inside shoulder belt and thus requires 2 different harnesses (left and right) for each seating position. Please make sure the belts are installed on the correct side of the car! SCHROTH link here (bottom of the page): Schroth have always been pretty insistent on this
  6. Thats pretty terrible after all the discussion you've had, feel for you, but as others said don't let this setback put you off making the car your own!
  7. That looks considerably bigger than oem to me, sorry. The side looks about 5cm but the front overhang much longer. can they measure to clear it up?
  8. Oh god, I'm not sure how that can be claimed as 5cm. Mine is 8cm and about half the size. Hopefully it's a simple error that he sent the wrong one. Hope it gets resolved! Is it mounted with a strengthening plate?
  9. Ah you mean your old one, I thought you meant the shiny carbon one but then realised thats probably why you switched to the shiny carbon one
  10. Yep, see my how do thread here: Tips are measure many times, drill once Isolate power and switch through a relay. More tips in my main build thread also
  11. Oh dear - mines holding up with the screws and tape, but to be fair it's not left the garage since I remounted it, so probably not a fair comparison
  12. Correct (plus wheel arch clips) but we're talking about bolts holding a front lip to the splitter. Factory does this with scritvits on the 380 up, By default the splitters themselves are bolted to the clam with Spire nuts directly in the clam
  13. Id agree with that, mines done its job of protecting the splitter and I don't think it would stay with just tape. Mines bolted, but with the standard splitter on the 350 there is nothing to bolt to so you're need a ply plate to mount to. But @alias23 has had good results with just taping so I might be wrong
  14. Give it a shot, worst thing that can happen is you get it wrong and waste a couple of metres of tape. I'd still jack the front up, and remember to wipe down both sides with IPA before sticking. Also if not sticking, 3M adhesion promotor is always a good bet, but expensive unless you can find the wipes on eBay otherwise you need a whole bottle
  15. Remove the 3 clips from each wheel arch liner (Phillips head centre), then remove the 17 M5 bolts. Heads are torx, T25, or T27 I forget which. Then remove the bolts that go through the splitter, through the number plate mount and into the clam. These have a 4mm Hex head, and there are only two of them Either get the car up on ramps or jacks, and support the splitter with jacks/lumps of wood/child at each end to stop it all being supported by a single bolt as you take them out. Once all bolts are out you end up with the plastic splitter and a metal support panel that sits underneath Thats about it really. You can easily remove without jacking if you want, but access is obviously easier if off the ground. Refitting is the reverse. For mounting the lip: The support plate does not hit the edge of the splitter, so it may be worth adding an additional ply plate that butts up against the edge to allow you something to mount to as the splitter itself is a curved thin piece. This will of course be a bunch more work, and will add depth so you will need to increase the bolts to maybe 30mm to cope with the additional depth. It'll make sense when you have it apart
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