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MrP_

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MrP_ last won the day on April 8

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About MrP_

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  • Name
    Paul
  • Car
    Exige 350
  • Location
    Cheshire

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  1. Take the roof off, saving the 10 mins not taking it off will cost you an hour plus probably some ripped trim... As for if it’s the same as your link, it depends on age of the car. Newer ones (my18 production onwards) have different frames, slightly more awkward access but no worrying about shims. But principle is the same, remove 4 bolts, lift out. You will need various extensions, UJ’s and wobble bars, as access is awkward. You have to remove the seats to fit the lap belts, impossible otherwise. It’s simple job, just take your time and don’t cross thread the bolts as they are easily done so do it all by hand with a gentle feel
  2. Top banana that, looks great!
  3. Was that not the guy who's car set fire to itself then he got into a fight with Jim from 2bular on here?
  4. Yep it’s pointless. A ceramic coat fails due to bad prep, if you can wash off a ceramic coat with your car soap it either wasn’t applied correctly or you are using battery acid. If a ceramic loosing its hydrophobic properties early, then it’s likely dirty. Wash with a strong APC rather than a gentle soap and you’ll see it return.
  5. You can technically wax a car after it’s been ceramic coated, as wax will adhere to non prepped surfaces which due to the hydrophobic nature of most si2’s will replicate as you’ll struggle to adhere anything to it (exactly what it’s meant to do). Topping with wax will make the hydrophobic and dirt repellent nature of the coating redundant, until the wax is stripped again. Optically you would expect to loose clarity and gain warmth as a rough rule of thumb when adding wax. On Loti you really need to get maximum clarity as they can look, well, a pit plasticy without a metallic or pearl. So wax as a topper sort of dulls it out. My opinion obviously but one you can never really settle as with all these things it’s subjective. Other cars vary So you can wax, but you’ll loose much of the si2 benefits until the wax stripped off. And the wax will strip quickly due to the weak bond. You can’t use a sealant, as that can’t bond as it needs a clean surface it can adhere to. If you want to top a ceramic coat, I like Beadmaker. Nice and slick. If you don’t like ceramic and want good protection, look at menz power lock topped with collonite 845. If you like waxing regularly you can keep topping up the 845
  6. The dull answer of time and correct products! But mostly just putting in time. It depends on how yours is dirty, oxidisation or grime? - If grime, you will need an all purpose cleaner wipe down, degreaser (likely scrubbed with toothbrush or similar), rinse and then lightly polish with peek/autosol, then topped with a sealant. If the degreaser didn't work, using white vinigar works well and if really dirty a steam clean If just oxidised then you can go to a wipe down and a light metal polish. Then seal. You can polish the throttle body more due to the finish being smooth. Mine was never allowed to get dirty so it was metal polished from new, wiped down with IPA then ceramic coated from new so never really oxidised. When fitting the intake tube the throttle body was given a deeper polish then topped with Megs NXT metal polish, and aluminium on the charger was just given a wipe down. It just depends how much you want to polish, and how dirty it is to start with. But once cleaned seal it in with a wax or sealant, or coating, to protect against oxidisation. Then just wipe down every time you wash the car.
  7. If you have the V6 I presume you already have the standard covers, so its a simple swap out. I you have a 350, then you need to get additional hardware to mount it. I would say it is worth it as it makes the engine bay look much nicer. I have the covers from Elise-Shop - it adds no functional benefit, but does look nicer and makes the engine bay looks like it should do in my opinion. Quality is good, but as with all these parts they look better after a proper polish to get them looking their best. Here is what they look like with the standard airbox: And with the alis23 intake: If they are always on display through the window I wouldn't hesitate.
  8. Gtechniq c4. Prep with a good APC, wipe down with IPA. Job done
  9. Damn right, I’d ceramic coat the kids if I could get the grease off them long enough! New diffuser looks great, much more aggressive than the original!
  10. Just been out for a proper drive after running in this morning - absolutely bloody brilliant! Top product, does exactly what I wanted and a top build quality -fantastic job Imran. Get one, you won’t regret it
  11. Yep don’t forget that! Car was idled for about 15 mins, no hunting or dying to report! Then 30 mins up and down the gears before you finally get to hear it as you take the revs up a bit. Adds a very nice sound above 3k and beyond . Sharpens up the throttle nicely, and combined with the 2bular sounds spot on when opened up . Follow Imran’s guide and there will be no issue with MIL coming on
  12. So its been a while, but thought I'd update with another change that you're going to see more of round here. Fancying a bit more induction sound, I started looking for an better intake and @alias23 came up with the perfect solution. The aim was to get more induction roar and better throttle response, as long as power wasn't lot I was happy. Imran had some great results on the dyno, and I won't know if there is any power gain unless I do a back to back on the dyno, but so far the arse dyno is giving good results so I'm happy. @alias23 gives great instructions, but it's all very simple - I chose to adapt them slightly as I could see no point in removing the wheel - but you might have a different experience, and maybe the v6 is tighter or the clips are different, certainly the airbag looks about half the size and is without an additional hose wrapped in what looks like a binbag! The key reason for removing the wheel is to get to the clips that hold the top of the airbox in place - having removed the airbox to run cables I knew I could remove the lids with the wheel in situ so that’s what I did. The contents look like any other intake system: Me being me, I wanted to make sure any opportunity to make stuff shiny was not missed, so elected to polish the intake tube before fitting, you know just because. That and its easier to buff off grease without needing an IPA wipe down each time. The pipe went from this: To this as I was working out what method was going to work: To this, happy with the result so left it there: Procedure was the same as any other metal polishing exercise, rub down with 600 grit to remove casting marks, down to 800 grit. When happy the casting marks are gone, work through the grades of wire wool, Fine, Super Fine and then ultra fine. Polish with Peek/Autosol etc using ultrafine wirewool, then with a microfibre, wool mop then finally a sponge applicator pad to do the final polish and stop marring. Finish off with megs NXT for a bit of protection. The silicon hose that connects the filter to the tube is black, but has blue centre which you can see looking into the engine bay and would do the OCD no good at all - so I simply sharpied in the edge so it all matched, here it is half way to give you an idea. It took a few coats to get it properly black. Not needed at all but just wanted it to look 100% Assembled it looked like this: I won't repeat the instructions too much as Imran supplies a great set, but… Remove the engine covers, intake hose, vacuum lines etc then remove the top of the airbox. Remove the vacuum solenoid. Remove the MAF sensor. Remove the ducting to the airbox from the left hand side scoop, remove bolts from airbox and pull free. Its really easy on the 350 as there is no extra ducting that the v6 had. Reposition the vacuum solenoid on a suitable bracket, vacuum line from supercharger into the solenoid, then solenoid to exhaust. I don't actually need the solenoid as I have a valve less exhaust, so it redundant, but kept in place so an error isn't thrown. Extra to the instructions I removed the airbox mount bracket as it serves no purpose and kept it with the now removed airbox. Vacuum hose to exhaust was covered as it was red so looked odd. Then simply refit the intake, mount on the support arm, connect up the piping, refit the breather hose, fit the MAF and reconnect. I changed the clips to Mikalor all round because I didn't like the spring ones supplied as OEM, and they match those Imran supplies for the kit. Refit covers, then it looks like this: Exterior of the throttle body was polished, although not to a mirror shine Total install (excluding polishing), was under an hour, but I was familiar with removing the airbox
  13. All in after polishing the intake tube so it looks all pretty, its all installed and looks like this: For those yet to fit, I made the following slight amendments: Cabletied MAF sensor to bracket as per OEM Removed airbag mounting bracket as its redundant and looks it Covered the exhaust vacuum line as its red and doesn't match Coloured in the end of the silicon hose so you don't see blue on the cross section I also DID NOT remove the wheel, as on the 350 you can remove the airbox without needing to. You can get to all clips on the 350 with long arms - with the engine bay covers removed its even easier! On the v6 the clips may be different. Also it may just be easier with the wheel off if you are not familiar with it. Changed to Mikalor clips on the throttle body hose - not needed, but look nicer Imrans instructions are 100% correct, but as with all things you can find some tweaks if they suit you! Also you need NO EXTRA PARTS, he supplied the lot so no need going out to look for other pieces. Got to say its a great product and @alias23has done a great job on this, he's certainly saved me a tons of time by doing the hard bits and making it work! Overall it has saved 2-3kg from the original OEM airbox too, not sure if that was mentioned.
  14. The link pipe with the sports cat from Komotec makes it not plug and play, due to Jim using vband connectors from link pipe to exhaust, and KT doing compression fit. But perfectly workable if you use a 2bular sports cat, or get the KT sports cat modified. Anyway, I have the valveless track exhaust, as I wanted a better but not louder sound. Significant weight saving too, and prefer it without valves but suspect that puts me in the minority
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