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Everything posted by DanR

  1. Ian, I don't know what you mean by "bond" and "independant in that respect"? Are you saying it's better to have the alloy components completely isolated from any metal to metal contact with the car's body or earth, whether it be by bolts or earthing straps?
  2. I was working on mine the week before Easter. It's a major pain to remove. Thankfully for what I was changing I didn't need to take it out completely. I think if it needs to come out you'll get better access after removing the heat shields and LH mount bracket. Everything there and on the opposite side is awkward to get to. While you're there check the alloy pipe bracket on the other side. I've had three attempts at remaking one that won't fracture. My latest is now rubber mounted to the chassis. Also I've fitted a more flexible silicon reducer (45mm to 38mm) from that pipe to the engine inlet. If you do that make sure the pipe is earthed or it will corrode faster. Not sure how the + and - currents work but I do know that rubber mounted alloy radiators etc corrode quickly if unearthed. Something to do with electrolysis and the coolant acting as an electrical conductor.
  3. I use this tool. Fast and accurate. Periodically I do the string check to make sure the body and both axles are square and in line. Ideally the body should be raised, plumb bobs used to mark the floor and a diagonal check from the suspension pick-up points to make sure the car is square.
  4. OMG
  5. I reverse mine up car ramps, crawl under and tighten everything up. Awkward but doable.
  6. Re-read earlier postings and realized what I said has already been posted.
  7. Sorry Michael, I didn't get back to you. I've been immersed in a bathroom-laundry renovation. What Changes said is the way to go. When I had my gearbox out I marked the position of the fork to the bellhousing window for every 5mm of thrust bearing travel. From memory I think there was 20mm in total. Once I had everything back I adjusted both the master and slave pushrods to give me that 9-10mm of travel. I can't recall if that met the workshop manual guidelines for adjustment but I got the pedal set to what I think is its best position. One thing to be very careful of is avoiding bottoming out. The fork has a weak spot which will break if there is any bottoming out. I made a 3mm mild steel plate to strengthen that weak spot. One end has a hole large enough for the adjuster thread and the other end is pop riveted to the fork. I used an oxy to bend the plate exactly to the bend in the fork. You can see the weak spot next to the the hole in this photo. Why Lotus didn't run the webbing all the way past that flat spot is one of those anomolies that leaves one pondering why. Much like the way they surrounded the petrol tanks with water retaining foam.
  9. What's your adjustment on the slave push rod? That affects the travel too.
  10. For a sportscar that is regularly rubbished, Mazda shows some serious intent to make it a driver's car. A lot of thought has gone into its development and fine tuning. Colin would understand.
  11. So true Bibs. Sad to hear. RIP Roger.
  12. The v6 Nissan VG30et motor is worth considering. I weighed one at 151kgs with manifold, turbo and flywheel but no other ancillaries. That's getting reasonably light and about 10kgs heavier than the 2.2 turbo Lotus motor. Those early 12 valve Nissan motors can make over 400bhp with boost, i/c and remapping on original innards. They're tough and with 5 head studs around each chamber can handle a lot of boost. They also bolt to the world class T5 so the availability of close ratio gearsets, dog or syncro, isn't lacking.
  13. I stopped packing the caps and hub centre between the bearings many years ago. Just a wipe now to stop rust if moisture gets in. I found even in racing conditions the grease never heated enough to flow out and even put in different colours to make sure I wasn't imagining things. I know that goes against the grain but haven't had a problem since. I use high temp bearing grease. What is critical is the correct amount of play. At the track after getting them up to temp, I'll remove the caps and re-adjust the play to the finest bit I can feel. They've usually tightened up from the cold setting.
  14. DanR

    Burroughs Gauge

    May help..
  15. Try a pointed punch and delicately tap around the perimeter of each bolt. Heat could be useful as well. If there's no movement and they're started to get butchered, you'll need to decide when to stop so you can weld the nuts on. I have a Henrob oxy torch which is ideal for these situations. It can produce an oxy flame a few mm's long so can heat small items with precision. Maybe you can track one down there.
  16. I had its Calibra brother back in the day. At the time it was regarded as quite quick, Where it did excel though was at higher speeds when the slippery body and silent progress came into its own. It seemed to get a second wind and would keep on pulling faster and faster without a big penalty on fuel consumption. I remember one late afternoon/evening revelling on a back road with some "low level flying". It was around the ton (160kph) on bends and straights with the awd doing its thing in the light drizzle that was falling. My wife was fast asleep and oblivious to how rapidly we were going. I don't know if the Cavalier is as aerodynamic but it would suit carrying more than two better. Oh and avoid any that have had the boost increased. Their awd system is viscous based and quickly overheats and fails if the engine's been modified. So make sure any you test aren't just fwd.
  17. Mike, you can carefully pop the base off the black tube. Tease it slowly starting with a Stanley blade. It's about 1.5mm thick. Once off you can clean the gunk out and get the foam and magnet slider to operate properly again. Reinstall the base or make a "u" shaped s/s clip to stop the slider falling off. Two small holes opposite each other on the black tube should work. Do not try and remove the reed switch. It's got some sort of filler around it so if you remove that and the switch you are more than likely going to break the glass tube the reed switch is in. I've got another bottle here if yours is cracked and you want it.
  18. That's a good point Buddsy. I have repaired cranks with damaged thrust faces due to drivers keeping their foot on the clutch whilst stopped and waiting for the green light or so. Being splash fed the constant contact over time didn't help the splash feed and brought about drier oiling and excessive end float. You've now got me wondering about modern cars which require the clutch being depressed before starting. That could be a worse and drier condition than sitting with the clutch depressed at the lights. Anybody know of premature crank thrust face wear with modern cars due to that?
  19. If those boxes are from the UN1 or 369 series do not scrap them. They are all well sought after and can be fitted with stronger gear sets from companies like GTO and Albins in Australia. With those gear sets they're all as strong as each other as proven by the GT40 clones using them. Those boxes are basically the same except for detail changes like some bearings and gear design. It's therefore important not to mix the parts when rebuilding unless you know what to look for.The smaller R20 engines may have lower initial ratios too. We never got those in oz. The only variation for the majority was the ratio for 5th and the diff ratio. There are also a few (four I think) different rear covers and gear changing mechanisms.
  20. DanR


  21. DanR


    A Lotus-Ferrari...
  22. Not a remake but I'd like to see a movie version of this old series. Lot of humorous material in this parody of allied prisoners in Germany back then. Hasn't been done due to legal challenges over who owns the copyright.
  23. DanR

    Ramjet in London!

    Actually Bibs you guys are upside down. The world clearly has more ground in the northern hemisphere. We all know that soil is heavier than water which is more volumous in the south. The earth is wrongly shown as upside down since the north must be heaviour than the south. Us aussies therefore are really "up over not down under".
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