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[email protected]

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  1. There is only one holy grail.... <img src="http://bah.warpspeeds.net/backend_s.jpg"> I would keep the 'Esprit' Gav..... Brian
  2. I expect that is driven by the needed tire diameters, and what is actually available to get the needed diameters with. Also, the larger the diameter of the wheel, the less sidewall height needed to achieve the target diameter, thereby having less sidewall flex. Besides the above, it looks cool! Brian
  3. Sounds like a good place for a heat exchanger, and get free steam! Brian
  4. Remember the oil this time! Best of Luck!!! Brian
  5. Will an S2 fan fit? there are three on ebay US for $25 each, reportedly in good shape. Brian
  6. Steve, Take the plunge so the adventure can begin.... Just be careful, they tend to multiply quickly. Brian
  7. Don't forget the heatshield on the nose, reentry is hell! Brian
  8. Perhaps that described the driver, or that the car had no spare.... Brian
  9. Flywheel has to come off, and a special tool is recommended for the rear seal alignment. Brian
  10. Most end up with cylinder leak problems when fitting the pistons without the use of cylinder clamps. Perhaps the Loctite is strong enough to not use those? Brian
  11. Travis, That looks like a great car! Send me a pm if there is anything I can help on, I also have a black S1 not real far away that I am redoing (in Parkersburg, West Virginia). Brian
  12. If there are half a dozen threads or so at the further depth, I would still use a longer bolt, and frankly antiseize (on all the bolts!), or you are just creating problems if you ever need to do this again. Dealing with a stud turning and such is just not worth it. And unless you pull the stud out of the block, you probably can not install or remove the pump with it in place. Stick the stud, and double nut city, if you have enough thread external to the pump flange. If not, you are back having a problem. Another wise move is to change the bolt that is interfered with by the aux pulley (which is probably the bolt in question) to a socket head cap screw (allen), you can generally wish that past the aux pulley without having to remove it. I am doing that on my S4 that I am also changing the pump on. I got a rebuild kit for mine for $30, and the tool to insert the seal with for $25, and rebuilt it myself (see hussie the S4 on the lotustalk.com esprit forum). Good luck Neil, Brian
  13. I have heard that the water pump bolts ARE SHORTER than the depth of the tapped holes. First thing to try is a longer bolt, and just don't go crazy on the torque. I would try something 6-8mm longer, and see where you are at. Brian
  14. After getting a part number from gixxer, and chasing down what info I could, it would appear most replacements for the stock TPS these days are hall effect based, and no longer have temp sensitivity. I am ordering a Delphi SS10425 (that crosses from the gm 17106681 tps). It is plug and play, and are quite inexpensive (25-35 dollars US). Following is the description from Jegs.... "Delphi speed and position sensors are designed for use with any control module that accepts a digital input. Our sensors use the Hall Effect or magneto resistive (MR) principles for accurate and clean signal input to the electronic control module (ECM). The result is more design flexibility to address unique applications requiring high-temperature operation and extremely stable switch point repeatability and/or high air gap capability. Our speed and position sensors also maintain optimal performance during drastic temperature changes for robust, long-lasting sensor protection thanks to a single-element design. Delphi speed and position sensors undergo certified electrical testing with industry EMI protection against noise interference and other sensor output, and feature enhanced sensing functionality that delivers reduced emissions, improved reliability and superior driveability." It should be better than the 18 year old one it has now. Thanks, Brian
  15. Derek, The 270's were recommended by John Welch for use with the S4s Mk V chip. Does not disconnecting the ecu (stock gm ecu) clear the maps, and should remap itself in usually 30 minutes of driving? That is the general time I have seen, I guess to gather enough samples. I stayed with stock size primaries. Brian
  16. I know this is a 4 month old thread, but I do have a question or two. Has anyone tried this new TPS using the standard GM ecu? With the programmability of the TPS regarding output range, is there really a problem on considering it for replacing the stock TPS (other than mechanically adapting it)? The ranges shown above seem to be pretty close, maybe 10% difference on the top end, but I would even expect that in different stock TPS's. It would certainly appear that fueling would be more accurate, by removing the thermal drift of the stock unit. And would also appear it would have longer life, and as you have eluded to, better low end drivability. Thanks!!! Brian
  17. I think the secondary injectors are like 190/cc/minute on the s4, I'm going to 270 cc because of upgrading from std s4 to s4s eprom, raising the boost to 1 bar. Brian
  18. Wow, love the color..... Now if it just had the steering wheel on the correct side. Brian
  19. Sounds like my garage, three dead elites, two dead S1 esprits, and my S4 esprit on stands for the last four months.... Errrrrr... they are called garage stuffers! Brian
  20. Mike makes the lotus parts out of love of the marquee. He does not have any help, and currently works 7 days a week with two other jobs too, to pay the bills. I believe he will deliver whatever you have ordered, but if you are in a hurry, maybe look around. He is doing his best, and it would be a loss to the lotus community to lose his services and skills. So cut the guy a break. Brian
  21. Looking very good Gav! Brian
  22. A epbv was never used on a UK version car was it? Brian
  23. I thought the high idle was controlled during warm up by the throttle jack, not the ebpv??? Brian
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