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  1. Thanks all for the info but I think I'll leave them attached to the light and work round them as I dont want to risk breaking anything! I've got all the lacquer off one light with 800 and 1000 wet grit paper and then will go down through the grades to 5000 and then polish. It's time consuming, but not difficult and ok in lockdown!
  2. I have removed the headlight to refurb the lacquer and would like to remove the jet wash module to make rubbing down the headlight surface easier. I have removed the to large hex self tapper screws and the module is loose so I guess it should just pull out, but I'm reluctant to pull too hard incase it breaks! Any tips please?
  3. Hi Colin, I think its just because Tom's is on the different wheels
  4. Ooh, that's a nice yellow one there Tom 👋
  5. Pretty much keep to book pressures on the PS4 tyres, maybe slightly under but never over. I think You would only notice the performance of the PS4S over the normal PS4 if you were really pushing hard on a dry track. The normal PS4 is quite outstanding in the dry and very wet / cold roads, so I am happy to stick to those.
  6. I've had Pirellis all round followed by MPS4 on rear with Pirellis still on front and the car was fine. The tram lining really starts to show when the fronts are worn / and or old. I now have PS4 all round but the rears are getting close to limit so will need to replace soon - maybe with MPS4 or MPS4S - the S only comes in 19 or above and my car is on the Forged 18/19 combo so I cant get MPS4S for the front. Having said that, the normal MPS4 are a great tyre esp in less than ideal conditions so will probably stick with those. I wont be going back to Pirellis!
  7. Looks great - is the red sill flash paint or vinyl?
  8. Same as above - had my 2010 NA for 9 years which has the CR box, now on 36k miles (33K being my miles) with original clutch and a great gear change which has never needed any adjustment at all
  9. Following on from this, has anybody found out the paint code for the Anthracite Forged alloy wheels (not the cast ones in a similar colour) as I want to touch in some small chips, ta!
  10. I got a 2nd hand one of those linked to from ES Motorsport for £35 - good as new and much nicer than the earlier ones - mine's a 2010 also.
  11. I have a 100mm crack on the front bumper right at the bottom by the wheel arch as a result of a suicidal pheasant. I repaired it last summer using some epoxy adhesive but that has not held so am looking to sort it out properly this time around. I intend to repair it from the inside and it should be fairly invisible from the outside as it is very low down anyway and does not warrant a trip to the bodyshop. If it was normal Lotus GRP / fibre glass it would be easy, but I understand that Evora bumpers are a type of plastic, so does anyone know / have experience of dealing with a small repair in one? Cheers!
  12. Thanks Kieran for that. So am I correct that when you come to replace the damper etc you have to first attach the top mount to the chassis, then thread the shock and spring into position and secure the bottom mount bolt. Then use a jack to push the shock and damper upwards into the top mount and then put the top mount bolt in? The service notes say that it can be done as a complete unit with the top mount, though I cant see how and have tried many times from all different angles! Cheers.
  13. I have had to replace the lower NSF wishbone due to a worn ball joint and it has turned into a pig of a job and am after advice from anyone who has gone through this before. I need to reinstall the shock and spring unit which I removed from the car as i have a set of standard new shocks sitting under the bench. I transferred the old spring on to the new shock and fitted the top mount with the aid of spring compressors. The service notes state that you can fit the entire unit ( spring, shock and top mount) as a complete unit back on to the car but I have tried and failed! I cant see how it can be orientated to get it back in situ - is it actually possible - has anybody done it? If it's not possible I'll have to bolt the top mount to the chassis, attach the bottom shock mount to the wishbone and then use a jack to compress the spring so I can insert the top shock mount bolt. I will then be able to jack the front of the car on the stuck ball joint which will hopefully load it enough for be to be able to persuade it to part from the upright. Any help greatly appreciated as this has been dragging on for 3 weeks now!!
  14. ES bought a number of pre production Evoras from Lotus which they were not allowed to sell as complete cars but they are great for "as new" used items - just check you get the correct one (s) as there were various changes early on, but you'll prob be ok with a 13 S. They're very helpful and all their stock is carefully labelled as to what it is and what it fits.
  15. I posted several tears ago about this when my ducting perished. I sourced a very nice stainless tube:
  16. Best to just ring them. They did advertise them via eBay and had a few.
  17. I am in the middle of a suspension refresh on my 2010 35k miles Evora NA. The car was serviced in July and they noted that the lower ball joint on NSF had some play in it which was again picked up on the MOT as an advisory last month. You cant replace just the ball joint so you have to source the full wishbone which comes compete with the bushes and ball joint. I sourced mine from ES Motorsport, brand new for £200 and not the £550 + vat that Lotus want! I had previously bought very cheaply 4 x new shocks and springs from Lotus Motorsport when they were selling off surplus stock so I am replacing these at the same time. I have never had any problems with the ARB drop links and they show no signs of wear at all, but since I am doing a refresh thought I may as well replace these also at £20 each from Elise Parts. I have also gone for the purple Powerflex ARB bushes so I will end up with pretty much all new and shiney suspension for small outlay. The original shocks are still in great condition with no leaks but there was no point in leaving my brand new ones under the bench any longer! I have been quite pleased with the condition of the suspension parts coming off the car with very little corrosion - much better than Elise suspension! So to recap, the only thing that was worn was the NSF ball joint. I had not heard any probs with the ARB drop links before this thread but the ARB bushes do wear when the grease dries out and this will be my first time with Powerflex bushes and the 4th set for the car in the 9 years that I have owned it.
  18. Give ES motorsport a shout as they race Evoras and am sure they will know if cams differ between models, but I don’t think they do as per above post. It is something I am looking at for my NA with some manifolds.
  19. I went PS4 all round on my NA after looking at the PS4s option with slightly wider front tyres. The PS4 is the better all round tyre esp in winter / wet conditions and they are also cheaper. The car has enough rubber on the road and grip so no need to go wider. I was expecting to get quite alot more mileage out of my rear PS4 tyres but I would say they are only marginally better wear wise than the Pirellis - they will need changing at 6k miles, but most of my miles are "fun" miles so not too bothered. They have word evenly . so nothing to do with poor alignment. Re induction - I have the Radium system on mine which is great but no longer available. I would try H111 and ES Motorsport to see what they have.
  20. Just a heads up on these - Michelin are doing a cashback offer at certain dealers which means I am having t new front tyres fitted for £170. This is the net price after you have claimed back the £20 cash back from Michelin (£40 for 4 tyres) My local tyre guy matched the Camskill online price which was £153.50 delivered inc VAT. Great tyres and great price
  21. I cant directly answer this, but had the same problem with my original unit - presume its the 505 model with the removable blackbird nav unit. In theory this was a clever idea but I had loads of problems with mine until I got fed up and Lotus upgraded mine to the 920R Alpine model under warranty. I would google for Alpine 505 instructions, as cancelling a route in this unit is far from intuitive and I cant remember how I did it now! You will be better off ditching the unit and going for a current unit with Android / Apple car play, DAB etc.
  22. After 9 years it looks as though I am now going to get my hands dirty on the Evora - other than just replacing the mud guard brackets and washer pump. The front lower wishbone ball joint is worn and I have sourced a new replacement wishbone from ES Motorsport as you cant just replace the ball joint - like so many cars today It doesnt look too difficult but I would like to use the best type of BJ splitter to avoid any damage to the upright - has any body done this job and have any tips please. Cheers Steve
  23. You could check for play in the bottom ball joints. My 2010 car was service last month and they said my NSF was worn, but I dont think I have detected and clonking. To replace this though you need a whole lower wishbone which I have managed to source and will fit when I get my son's Elise out of the way!
  24. Well my 2010 has never leaked, never been regassed and is still pumping out nice cold air - maybe I've just been lucky and maybe its more of a problem on SC cars?
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