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Posts posted by 21gg
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Have a look at this article on the part about U660E gearbox.
https://gearsmagazine.com/resources/issues/6f8d1_2013-1_all%20nbg.pdf
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A very odd time when starting from cold when I first engage drive it can 'clunk' a bit, but it is only the odd time. Also because I drove everywhere in sport manual for the first year, the tcu learnt this so now in auto it isn't 100% smooth as I presume its edging towards a sport change rather than a slushy auto change. As you have changed the fluid and reset the tcu im at a bit of a loss. It may be worth searching the issue relating to toyota cars as if its a known gearbox issue then it will also show up there. Im sure I read that the gearbox in toyotas when it has issues, it was known to always one of two solenoids.
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The only thing I can think of would be a 12v delay off timer triggered by putting it in reverse, so it gives you x number of seconds operation once out of reverse.
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Could you pop your inside door handle off and send them that to colour match it?
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No i didnt just looked at the steering column seal in the footwell.
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Im sure at some point fully autonomous vehicles will happen and will be a good thing for a lot of people, but i cant help picture the effects of some old person (probabley me if im still here) in an old unconnected vehicle and the caos that could be caused 🤣😂
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Fancy plates have 3 different fonts, personally I would pic the nearest and go with that, as in theory it should be legal. But then again my ocd isnt anwhere nearly as bad as Fabians. Keep up the good work! 😁
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If you go on deroure.com it has all the lotus part diagrams on their. You can browse to your hearts content on there. Its run/owned by B&C
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On the old font (pre 2001) the thickness of the font is narrower but the letter width was wider. I only know as when the revised the font my already small number plate shrank even more! So a bad explanation by me, but you can see the difference in Fabians pictures above.
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Fabian, you've done an amazing job and I know you are fastidious down to the last detail......and I don't want to sound like an arse but.........you do know your number plate is the modern font and not the old one!
The modern font is narrower.
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Yep I realise that cheers, mine 'seems' to be genuine and came overnite from a car spares company so hopefully it is genuine, I could have got a cheaper one but didn't. Its reading alright on the obd graph but will have to see.
I have no issue buying genuine parts when needed but neither have I an issue getting non lotus genuine toyota parts like fuel pump, ac compressor etc over the years at much reduced mark up. Everyone has to make a living so no complaints but the ac compressor on my old Evora na saved me £1500. I dont doubt fake parts are a massive problem.
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Yep got mine off ebay! I didnt fancy doing it with hot exhaust or a blow torch as the one I did has very little access room (pre cat between engine and fire wall) and was mainly done by touch. After googling I found the logic behind the fault code, voltage outside limits for a set period, after the second time it triggers. Does sound like yours is either water getting in the connector or the cable has rubbed/melted and the water could be shorting it out. I've got the vag-com/vcds software on my pc which also does obd11, its good as for example, I can see the output from the two sensors on a graph so you can compare them easily. The sensor 2's should be straight forward but much easier with a pit or ramp!
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For future reference, yes its quite easy and straight forward. You have to remove the heat shield from between the engine and bulkhead, this is straight forward but one nut is captive the other is loose so you have to be careful not to drop it. I did this with the engine cold so needed my long bar to crack the sensor loose. One sharp tug to break the seal and it then just undid by hand. New one in and all fitted back. The fault light has cleared, the OBD reader is now clear apart from the catalyst cycle needs time to reset but need a longer drive, the 02 sensor cycle has reset.
For reference, I googled the lotus part number which gave a generic Bosch part number and I bought one of those for less than half the price of lotus and I spent £12 on a set of o2 sensor sockets, so all in about £70, a lot less than just the sensor from lotus.
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Good point, Komotec also list several parts but not the GTE front lip. A lot of the Stratton cars had 'black' parts, where I presume they were reproduced in fibreglass and painted, rather than carbon.
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Strattons but they can be a bit hit and miss to deal with. As far as i know, and hope to be proved wrong, but don't think the factory have anything to do with them since selling strattons all the spares.
How bad is the crack? Ive only ever parked forward once 😂, i repaired mine with a knife and some clear lacquer. The problem i have is that it is bonded on as well as bolted! 🙄
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If I were in the market I would go and have a look. Damage wise, if its not recorded and doesn't looked botched then I would put it down to just rumours or a proper repair, unless it can be confirmed, so not overly concerned. The service issue can be resolved with having a big service done. I had an ex-press Evora S,some doom mongers would talk the car down, but it was fine, as I'm sure this one would be.
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The engine cover was deleted on later cars, JMG cost cutting as previously mentioned, you can tell because the bar it normally attaches to isn't there either!
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Just looked up the cost of a new maf, ouch. May need to check the denso part number.
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Yes, the first thing i did was clean the maf and throttle body and their connectors. The b2 s1 sensor looks like it may be a bugger to change, hence why I'm aaking advice but happy to try all the easy thing first! Cheers
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Ive done it a couple of times and each time after the 2nd start it comes back on as per the trigger logic. It is giving a reading as i can see it but suspect its fluctuating beyond its limits.
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Ive got a bank 2 sensor 1 error which appears to be the precat on the firewall side. Ive had a look round but not found anything specific about replacing this sensor. Anyone done this got any advice? I cant see it from above and the bulkhead panel sooms to be to the side of it so dont know if this will help.
Cheers Gav
Clunky sometimes violent gear change in Evora S w IPS
in Engine & Ancilliaries/Gearbox
Posted
I think the odd time mine did it, from starting, was when it was cold. I always let the car warm up for a minute or two before driving. So presumebly in my mind the gearbox oil is cold/thick. Do cars in UAE usually run thicker oil to counter the general higher temperatures? If its not a software issue then it can only be harware. There is a clutch control valve, which presumabley is what controls the 'take up', so there may be an issue with that, the oil or maybe the transmission oil needs flushing out if there are some contaminates in there? Im no expert btw, this is just me thinking out loud!