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stevefh

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About stevefh

  • Rank
    LO
  • Birthday 20/12/1948

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  • Gender
    Male

More Info

  • Name
    Steve Harris
  • Car
    lotus esprit S4 1993.5
  • Location
    cardiff
  • Country
    GB

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  1. Couldn’t get a nut on the nearby chassis stud. Ground down its top and wire brushed the thread but it would not take the nuts with two different threads,so gave up the extra earthing.Got the coils from Usautomotive of Bedford via eBay £135 all in.Seems to idle ok.A few days before I drive 50 miles of mixed to set the ecu.Thanks for all comments
  2. Any comments from those who have used iridium plugs in their esprit?
  3. Ok,separated the coils from their baseplate.Now I’ve seen mine ,can also make out the pin hole covered by a cello tape like strip on yours.My plate looks glassy black whereas yours looks white/silver,did you clean yours up?What is the plate for/behind it?What is the pin hole? .The 3 holes in the bracket that mounts the coils to its chassis plate are showing a lot of corrosion,is this due to coils action?
  4. Hi all,taken off the original coils with backplate and putting loads of WD40 on the 4 off 5.5 mm bolts so I can separate the fronts from their base plate as the top ones don’t want to move.My questions, why are the through holes greater in diameter than the bolts and the bottom ones having a metal sleeve but the same diameter,if as a few have stated they earth them to the chassis stud? Does the small piece of rubber with electrical connector size slits in that comes with each unit fit inside somehow?(not got them apart yet) I am leaving the spark plug gaps at 1.1mm ,as they come ,as the higher voltage can account for the increase from .9 -1.0 specified. If it causes a problem NGK tech.service says max recommended gap adjustment is +-0.012” which translates to +-0.3mm so closing into spec.also NGK BPR6EIX opening from 0.8mm into spec.Adjust very carefully without touching the fine iridium tip.Thanks for any help.
  5. My S4 has electronic ignition.
  6. Don’t think so as it’s done less than 5K miles but if my timing reset doesn’t work I’ll take it off and have a look
  7. Ebpv and throttle jack removed.
  8. I had driven about 4 miles to reset the ecu and let it idle for more than 10 minutes and the cat also got very hot.I have taken the plugs out and they are all on the sooty side definitely not lean. When I did it I followed every stage in the manual, checked and double checked the gaps .Exhausts were,12,12,11,11,11,11,10,11 thou.Tomorrow I will start the timing procedure again, from scratch ,taking account of the advice . I have used two washers I/d 20mm that just fit over the cam pulley bolts,with a hole drilled in each to allow an appropriate short length of elastic to be stretched between them when in situ ,producing a self activating centre line of the pulleys
  9. Hi all, keep your thoughts coming. It is the same plugs as when it was running fine . I have just done the valve gaps but i am sure all gaps were set in spec.I considered if a broken valve spring had caused this overheating of the exhaust manifold but decided one spring problem would not cause it,and unless it broke when I was doing the gaps ,it was running fine before. I have thought of a gizmo to fix the centre line between the cam pulleys and hope when I use it, it gives me a slight difference in set up of timing spots from my current problem setting. I did the gaps because they were noisy. I have owned this S4 since it was 18 months old and the head has not been skimmed.
  10. Thanks Barry,did the set up look correct when it glowed red hot as mine does and did you turn the exhaust pulley one tooth clockwise when looking from the front,to cure it?My thinking said this and Dave agreed,but when I set it up it was a long way out so I stopped.
  11. Hi all,the reason I ask this as I am doing the timing again and I am getting the same setting as before which gave me a glowing red hot manifold! I am using a mirror and a ruler.The gap between the pairs of teeth on either side of the dotted pair of teeth are not the same and I think they should be .Unless I get some help on this I will try to get the gaps the same with the minimum gap possible on the dotted pair of teeth.
  12. Hi all,anyone made a gizmo to create a centre line between the cam pulleys that can be used with the engine still in my 1993.5 S4.Details please.
  13. Thanks Dave, I have understood your explanation.
  14. Thanks again Dave,please explain how I know ,from the front,which is the”104 direction”clockwise or anti-clockwise and do I just move the exhaust pulley relative to the cam belt or am I misunderstanding. I have yet to change anything.The belt is still under tension with TDC set,bearing in mind your comment on TDC, and dots slightly out ,as per hot running.
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