cweeden

Obviously I'm bit slow to climb the social ladder but my stubborn nature won't let me give up. 🤣

I have a question regarding the adjustment of the radius arm pivot and the mix of shim plates and shim washers to achieve the correct spacing. It would seem that items 46 and 39+40 are doing the same job, moving the arm closer or further away from the chassis, adjusting toe-in of the rear wheel. However 39+40 are also moving the bush and can be fitted with all bolts in place (just loosened) whereas the 46 shims seem to be a fit and forget affair during installation of the suspension arm. I am assuming then that some steps should be taken to get the toe-in setting as close to optimal using the 46 shim washers and adjust this over the lifetime of the vehicle with 39+40. The question (if the above is correct), how do you set about getting toe-in close to correct while the body is off the car and nothing is at final ride height? I'm wondering if I need to install a temporary adjustable rod in place of the spring/damper unit so I can set ride height and get the geometry correct before popping the body back on or am I over thinking this? 🤔

Ah yes, this comment I suspect "I have managed to re-establish contact with ProAlloy after a period of radio silence and they have said they will contact Nick shortly to get his car in and get started on the templates and jigs." I will have to work on a new definition of the term 'shortly', I was hoping it was accurate when I wrote it. 🤣 cheers -Chris

Hi @cammmy, Your post says you have bought a tool but you go on to enquire about borrowing one, I suspect a typo somewhere. 🙂 I have the seal insertion tool and have lent it out in the past without issues. If you want to contact me with a direct message I'm sure we can sort something out. 👍 cheers -Chris

Hi Mike, I'm not sure why you think ProAlloy have had the original car already. I am still working hard to make that happen. I think we are getting close and I am waiting on ProAlloy for an update. I expect to email the group buyers sometime this week. cheers -Chris

Ah, don't say that, I have a full silicone set in a box ready to jump into action soon. 😬

I decided to have a go at making some and experimented a little with nylon and polypropylene sheet cut into strips. Nylon seems to be slightly stiffer and closer to the original, after a crude template was made from a steel tube offcut and some heat from a hot air gun I was up and running. 🙂

Hi Atwell, I couldn't find these clips in the McMaster-Carr website and I don't think these are P-Clips because they are open ended (although I could be completely wrong on that front), if you have a link to some I would be very grateful. At the moment I have resorted to ordering some sheep plastics and may have to make some myself. I am trying nylon and polypropylene to start with hoping they exhibit the correct properties. 🙂

Hi Seb, It's almost made it home, I live in Dorking not too far from Newlands Corner and was the owner before Steve. Have fun with it. 🙂 cheers -Chris

Here's a better image showing the female connector.

Hi All, Can anyone tell me where I can get some of these (they hold the water and coolant pipes to the body or frame at various points and come in different sizes)... Also when making brake lines, the male flares appear to be DIN flares but there doesn't seem to be a female DIN flare, would these be SAE double flares or am I an idiot? Finally does anyone know where I can find suitable M10 female to female adaptors in stainless steel? There are plenty in zinc plated steel but I can't find any in Stainless. Even a machine shop that can make them would be a welcome steer. cheers -Chris

I bought an Evora with the intention of selling the Esprit about 10 years ago, however I still have the Esprit and the Evora was sold about 3 or 4 years ago. I was lucky to be able to have both for a while so not quite the same dilemma, have you driven an Evora? Good luck. cheers -Chris

I'd be interested if there is anything interesting on that. 🙂

Wow, that's interesting. I have a new cover for my rebuild, the oil pump parts had some scoring and it seemed almost economical sense to replace the whole thing including PRV. I have no plans for the original cover if you think it might be a useful upgrade? (I will however need to check the replacement is of the correct type now I know there is more than one 🙂 )

Trouble maker.