f1karting

Basically it is an ECU controlled function that when the throttle is lifted rapidly, like when shifting, the ECU retards the timing so that the charge is ignited so late that it creates its pressure pulse in the exhaust port, maintaining turbine speed.. hence the pop in the exhaust J

That sounds interesting.. got anymore info on that system? J

Here is some support for my "no oil cooler" idea.. http://www.carjunky.com/news/motor_oil/mom2.shtml and.. some more information snips.. "... Why Petroleum Oils are Insufficient Conventional petroleum oils are insufficient for use in today's vehicles primarily because they are a refined substance. Unfortunately, no refining process is perfect. Impurities will always remain when any refining process is done. Thus, there are many components of petroleum oils which are completely unnecessary for protecting your engine. They do absolutely nothing to lubricate your engine. In fact, there are even some components of petroleum oils which are actually harmful to your engine. Prone to Break Down Some of the chemicals in conventional lubricants break down at temperatures within the normal operating range of many vehicle and equipment components. Others are prone to break down in these relatively mild temperatures only if oxygen is present. But, this is invariably the case anyway. These thermally and oxidatively unstable contaminants do absolutely nothing to aid in the lubrication process. They are only present in conventional petroleum oils because removing them would be impossible or excessively expensive. When thermal or oxidative break down of petroleum oil occurs, it leaves engine components coated with varnish, deposits and sludge. In addition, the lubricant which is left is thick, hard to pump and maintains little heat transfer ability. Poor Cold Temperature Start-ups Petroleum lubricants are also likely to contain paraffins which thicken dramatically in cold temperatures. As a result, petroleum lubricants will not readily circulate through your engine's oil system during cold weather. This may leave engine parts unprotected for as long as five minutes after startup! Obviously, significant wear can occur during this time frame. Marginal Heat Control Even when all conditions are perfect for conventional oils to do their job, they still don't do it all that well. Part of the problem is that (because of their refined nature) petroleum oils are composed of molecules which vary greatly in size. As the oil flows through your vehicle's lubrication system, the small, light molecules tend to flow in the center of the oil stream while the large, heavy ones adhere to metal surfaces where they create a barrier against heat movement from the component to the oil stream. In effect, the large, heavy molecules work like a blanket around hot components. There is another effect of the non-uniformity of petroleum oil molecules which reduces their effectiveness as well. Uniformly smooth molecules slip over one another with relative ease. This is not the case with molecules of differing size. It would be much like putting one layer of marbles on top of another. If the marbles were all of the same size, they would move over one another fairly easily. However, if they were all of differing sizes, the result would be much less efficient. In the case of petroleum oils this inefficiency leads, ironically, to added friction in the system (the very thing that lubricants are supposed to reduce). Hence, petroleum oils are only marginally capable of controlling heat in your engine...." .. I guess thats why our cars have coolers.. installed before the advent of decent synthetic oils.. J

I got my Lotus CC from Garry Kemp, nozzle and all.. I think I paid 450GBP for it two years ago. Maybe he can source one for you.. At this point I plan on not using the secondary injectors.. I will try and configure it with mains alone.. dont know if the PW will go low enough to idle high impedance (400-500cc/m) inj properly. I just recently got a Pectel T6 ECU but it is not the latest issue and doesnt have drivers to run low impedance inj.. I am in discussions with RC Engineering and Pectel about solutions. I guess we'll see.. J

Try these guys http://delorean.com/dmcstore/ViewDir.asp?P...%2DTransmission

Artie.. check this CC out! http://www.precisionturbo.net/

I have been considering the elimination of the OC actually.. I have gotten feedback that seems to indicate that, these days, the oils are so good, that unless you have serious oil overheating issues, for road use, you just dont need an OC anymore. Combine that with our frequent oil change interval, and I could believe that modern oils are up to the task. My reasoning for originally wanting to move the OC was because of the length of hose, energy loss thru the system, potential for air entrapment in the system and oil pressure issues, difficulty in purging old oil, and that there may be potential for debris to settle in the OC. J

Jim.. do you know what the notch pattern is? I am converting my carb/dist arrangement to a full EMS and FI and was wondering what might be the best crank position sensing method. I had considered placing mag triggers in the FW, but maybe notches would be easier to do. esprithk.. any more in on the SJ kit would be nice to have.. what clutch, RG, price etc.. any chance of finding out? J

Hi Art.. I am in no rush ATM.. I need to send them the 907 RG and S300 PP to test fit and they have asked for an OE FW to double check agains the drawings. I am pretty confident in the drawings, but to be 100% a FW to measure against would be best.. Only problem is I dont have mine available to send them as my engine is still in the car. My guess is later this year. These guys in FL do driveline work for BMW touring cars raced in the US series and came highly recommended. So I am willing to let them do it. The owner is very keen to help out.. not like Fidanza where they only care if you want to order 100 off. We are planning to produce the FW in 6061-t6 with a steel friction insert. The RG would be indexed into the FW with set srews or whatever they normally do. I anticipate a one-off FW to cost me anywhere from 600 to 900USD (not incl RG, PP and development cost) J

This maybe a question for Messrs Kemp.. What spray pattern does the esprit engine like the best? The Lucas single pencil, the bosch cone, or maybe the 2 or 4-jet type. Re the gearbox.. Mike Rodregues has a quaife 6-speed in his Esprit. He wants to swap it out of his road car because it is not user friendly for road use.. it has very low hours and will be very reasonable. He is In CA working on it this month. Other GB options could be RBT or Ricardo 6-sp Jan

Hey Guys.. Fidanza can produce FW for the 907 but wont make one for the 910 or later.. Ive tried. However, I found a race engineering outfit in FL that I have comissioned to build one for me. It will be 9.5lb with drillings for the S300 clutch. It will use the 907 ring gear. Its the clutch and PP I have had a tough time getting weight reductions on. The disc splines are unique and no one makes anything compatible. I had orignally thought a BMW PP or even a multi disc "road" clutch from Tilton may work .. but no disc match was possible without changing the GB input shaft spline pattern. No win. So the S300 is the choice. I may re-work the PP housing to reduce some of its mass.. but we'll see. UL flywheels are great.. the reduction in moment of inertia make the engine think the car is lighter, so vehicle acceleration is improved. The effective weight ratios thru the gears 1-5 are something like 36:1 / 25:1 / 16:1 / 9:1 / 3:1. So taking 1# off the FW is like reducing the vehicle mass by 36# when in 1st gear.. etc.. The downside is that it is easy to stall an engine when engaging from a stop because of the reduce MOI. You adapt to that tho' I have produced a cad drawing of a 910 FW if anyone needs it. Jan

Hi Anthony.. I know you guys are having a nice chat, but I had to interject... Do you have any idea why my car has TT337 marked all over it? I know that 337 is the 237th car off the line, but what does TT represent? regards J

Hey Louis.. nice fit! Howd you run the OC lines? J

I think Jon may have plans to turn up the heat on his engine.. and is unsure about the SM I think the SM is a great box for the OE application, however in my case, I am targetting 300hp, and based on Mikes experience, seems likely the SM will not like it one bit. BTW, I plan to keep my SM (along with all the other OE parts I am swapping out) in mint condition, so that one day, if and when its worth it, I could restore the car to OE spec. Right now, personally, I am enjoying the engineering challenge of putting the UN1 in an S3... and make it shift better.

Can someone expain why we need a backflow valve if the filter is mounted low in the chassis? I dont get it. Also check out post 10 where I show the Gaerte products.. notice the slick mounting on the adapter .. it uses the threaded center stud instead of 2 seperate allen head bolts.. I dont know what the OD of the adapter is.. it is apparently for SB ford engines. I like the design.

Hey Jon.. Hows it goin? I have talked with Mike Rodregues about this at length.. here is a except from one of his replies to me about the SM.. "...I've heard similar stories from the guy at *** and having shred 2 ring and pinions in 8,000 miles, I think he's full of sh*t. When you get the Citroen box out of the car look at the size and structure of the case and the size of the ring and pinion. Compare that with the size Detroit would use for 400 hp (e.g. a Corvette). The SM box was designed to handle 170hp and 172 ft-lbs of torque in its OEM application. OEM's always over design, so one can assumed that it should be good for 20%-40% more. Lotus was already pushing the limit with 205 ft-lbs stock. Torque capacity is largely governed by gear size and material. But maintaining proper gear lash is essential. If the case flexes and the lash widens you're going to get excessive loads concentrated in small areas, causing the hard facing to break down and pit. When that happens the gear dies shortly thereafter, independent of what it's made from. My motor was stock except for green dot cam wheels, a European distributor, no starter cat, an HKS boost controller running 15 psi (after porting, 12psi before), 2 additional injectors fired by an HKS additional injector controller, a dual core air to air intercooler with fan pulling air from the left side intake and a T3 compressor upgrade. As the European cars using the same cam wheels and distributor only made an additional 10hp (but better low end torque), the additional power can be attributed to the intercooler (only 60% efficient in that configuration, which is why I upgraded to a charge cooler) more boost and fuel, the less restrictive exhaust and compressor. I estimate it was putting out about 275 hp having also driven new SE's at the time. When I killed the 2 SM boxes it wasn't from hard driving, it was shock loads. I was running 10 x 17 rear rims with 255/40 Yokohama A008's. They were smaller in diameter (25") and would spin and hop over ripples (stutter bumps). The shocks beat the gearbox to death. So I guess if you never accelerate full throttle in 2nd on anything other than glass smooth pavement, perhaps *** is right, but that's not very realistic. It would be fair to say that Lotus didn't put a charger cooler on the Esprit until it had a stronger gearbox than the SM. Yes, the SM was going out of production, but the Esprit was also needed to be upgraded to maintain sales..." Jon..hope that helps.. that why Im doing a UN1 conversion on my car. J

.. time goes by so fast you might as well get a spare set of keys for the Esprit while your at it.. Congrats Mark.. Enjoy every minute of it, because before you know it, they grow up and move on..

I am a bit concerned about the wisdom in the US Govt approval to sell its major shipping ports to outside interests. Put this in the Google search and read some of the news.. "sale of US ports" What do you make of it?

Mark Id be interested in a copy of your graphics.. Can you saveas EPS format? thanks J email me at f1@horizon.bc.ca

Troy these parts are available from www.speedwaymotors.com

Troy..I recently bought a very trick OF adaper that has a mounting assy that will clamp directly to one of the lower chassis tubes. What I dont have yet is an adapter block for the original OF housing and hoses. I can get the PN and some pix of the adapter. I would be interested in a blanking plate/adapter

Hi all.. I am working on a UN1 conversion for my S3T and need to locate information and technical drawings for the renault box. In particular: 1) exploded and cross section drawings 2) bolt torque specs 3) setup specifications including clearances, preload and backlash. Any help would be appreciated. thx If you have PDFs or whatever format files, you can email me a f1@horizon.bc.ca Jan

1) BMW m-tech steering wheel bought for my E30, seller advised it would fit, goods arrive.. completely wrong application.. idiot became scarce.. never managed to get refund sorted. 2) air impact gun, advertised 240lbft torque.. maybe has 70lbft.. left positive feedback saying how good they were to deal with but goods not as advertised. 3) BMW M10 motor.. advertised as strong runner, high mileage, good core... actually looked like it never had the oil changed and had a spun bearing!! Guy was very good to deal with on the shipping and went out of his way to help get it here.. price was cheap so didnt get too wound up about it. The engine is salvagable. I tend to give positive ratings and give praise to good service, but will tell the truth about the goods, good or bad, in positive feedback. That way those who read the feedback and not the stats will get the picture without me damaging a sellers rating. If I were to give negative, my strategy would be to hit them after they rate me, or wait till very late to post feedback (hopefully after they have forgotten about the deal). All other dealings have been good experiences..

http://www.brusselsjournal.com/

A couple of questions...just curious.. Kato re: PMN: .. what diameter are the front rotors? .. how heavy are each rotor and caliper? .. what diameter are the pistons in the 4-pot? .. how many pad compounds are available? ------------------------ Marcus: .. Any particular reason you prefer a grooved ventilated disc over a plain vented one? .. dont you find the OE front rotors to be too small of a diameter to work with in terms of getting real good brakes? Even with upgraded OE style rotors. ------------------------- Chandra: I am sure all the improvements are good, however.. there is more to it IMO. "Better" and "Improvement" is a relative term. A simple pad compound change can transform a cars braking feel. Deglazing and the rotors and pads can also have a profound effect in feel and pedal effort. These cars do need better brakes.. and I think most of us primarily want confidence in our brakes when stopping from the speeds these cars are capable of. That requires some serious heat management, properly selected pad compounds, a well maintained hydraulic system, and well balanced brake forces. Not to mention tires! I think if anyone is looking to improve their brakes, they need to consider that as well.