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  1. Appears to be the case, unfortunately.. so.. .. I am having to build my own!! My project S3 will be a serious contender Heres a progress page.. >engine I am targeting 385hp.. Pauter 550gm rods, customs cp pistons, knife edge crank, alloy FW, ex cam, reworked head, gt2871 turbo, pectel ECU, 321SS header, air/water IC, ecu etc etc... >chassis weight down to 2100# using CF panels etc >300mm-4piston front brakes, 250mm inboard floating rears >UN1 box if I cant afford an RBT ....cant wait!!!
  2. Sweet!! Now if I could only find a one in this part of the world.. Sorry.. really what I meant by 'soft' is that over the generations of Esprit they retained virtually the same chassis design, that being one designed for a fairly light car.. The newer cars just got heavier and heavier over the years, putting the chassis demands well above its original design. Hence 'softer' effective stiffness. Same for the brakes to some degree, IMO. I bet a well tuned later S3T, properly lowered and setup with adjustable suspension, r-compound street tires, R4S pads, at 2400lbs, would give any later car a run for its money, (at speed or otherwise) (exception GT300 or S4S perhaps). Any takers
  3. Thats impressive then.. Ive driven plenty of Esprit but not a GT3 or S4S.. that said.. I still cant see a stock S4S hitting the numbers you claim without tuning them. Your numbers even beat the published factory specs?? In my experience most Esprit feel similar except the newer they got, the 'fatter' they felt. I always suspected that the GT3 and S4 were simply powered up versions with improved brakes/suspension to overcome their added weight and soft chassis. I guess I was mistaken. My previous S3 was pretty well modified with decent suspension mods and good tires.. it was at least as good, if not better than any newer Esprit I have ever driven. Now you have me curious to test an S4S.
  4. Shame about 355 fire.. any idea how that happened? My Esprit has R-compound Nitto tires and yes, compared to the Michelin PS I have on the 355, it is no contest as far as grip goes. So perhaps thats a consideration, tires. The one thing the Esprit does have over the 355, and its quite noticable, is its weight.. my Esprit is about 450lbs lighter.. not sure if the S4s is quite so light though? You can feel the extra weight in the 355 and thats where I think the Esprit has a definite advantage. I dont have experience with the S4S but have driven a few older and newer Esprit. Perhaps the S4S can do 187mph and beat 0-60 in 4.7sec but I am sure it is only by fractions. The 355 gearbox is not slick at slow speed or when cold, but when shifting warm, at full-chat, it is very good .. and the ratios.. are perfect. I love the Esprit, dont get me wrong.. but the 355 is also one hell of a car. I know I am asking a lot for that to be recognized on a Lotus forum, but still. --------------------------------- Your GT300 is absolutely amazing by the way.. I applaud your work and good taste.
  5. Beautiful car.. Andecorp you say "The S4s destroys the F355 in every aspect - handling, acceleration, comfort, ride, etc." Not sure what 355 you drove, but my experience tells me a different story.. the Esprit and the 355 are each a unique experience.. both very good.. but to say the S4 'destroys' the 355 in every aspect is ridiculous.. The 355 has a far superior gearbox and ratios, and the engine produces an emissions legal, 110hp/L, normally aspirated, and spins 8500rpm with a sound that no Lotus can begin to replicate. The ride on the 355 is at least as good as any Esprit; both the 355 and Esprit are equally quick and comfortable. an F355 compared to the S4S racer.. I would hope so..
  6. Thanks for all the great encouragement.. what started out as a project to do an resto in a more original (but improved) state some how got put on steroids! I went off my meds and went crazy.. The 85TE I have, I bought and restored to an improved original state, and once I completed that car, got in the mood to go a step further.. turns out it is a big step. My inspiration came from Mike Rodriques on this forum whose car IS done to the nuts. If you do a search you will probably see what great work he has done. Mike has an amazing knowledge base and is a big help ironing out details. He and I talk quite a bit, and it didn't take long before I got motivated to do a completely serious car. So here I am.. if you read the garage page of mine I list the mods I am doing. My one dilemma is I would love to use an RBT gbox like Mike but the cost is upward of 20 grand to make it happen.. the UN1 ratios I just dont like much. To answer Jeffs question.. I have QA1 double adjustable on Eibach springs.. I am starting with 200 front and 180 rears because the car will be quite light (expecting to hit 2100lbs with all the CF panels and weight pruning) The OE rates were 155F/125R on 2500lb. I want to see if I can get ride quality AND handling sorted on lighter springs. With the relocated shock mounts, I can actually bottom the front wheel housing onto the tire.. so I now have lots of travel and room for nice bump stops. During the course of doing all this, I actually discovered (perhaps partly) why Lotus dont want the car lowered more than a few mm and that is because the rear suspension and shock mountings go so far out of alignment that binding becomes a serious problem. It gets so bad that the shock mounting pins may need to take up perhaps 15 degrees of deflection, and the OE rubber bushings just cant do that.. something will break. The rose jointed set up completely frees up the rear suspension and allows freedom to zero the geometry at lower ride heights.. it even provides the ability to alter track width, perhaps 6mm, either way. There are still limits to the amount that the car can be lowered because at some point, even with zero'd geometry at lower height, the camber curves can get out of hand on bump, so the trick is to set the car up to stay inside the extremes. I think a 50mm drop is reasonable while retaining decent bump and rebound travel and geometry. As far as competition.. I wish there were more options but where I live, circuit racing is not big on the radar, and living on Vancouver Island means ferry travel for weekend outings. That said, we do have a series that caters to the enthusiast.. the Performance Driving Club ( in Vancouver are well organized and put on various track days in pacific northwest, so I definitely will be interested in driving the car to such events. But as to entering a proper competition series as a full blown race car, I doubt it. GKB.. I will work on the steering wheel relocation.. Here is a mock up shot of more of the front showing a front link replacing the old ARB system. The slightly shorter length of the new link add a bit more caster on bump, which isnt a bad thing. I may need to add a separate ARB .. (but haven't quite decided how to I would attach an ARB end to the link assy.) The steering arm will also need its pick up point adjusted to eliminate some bump steer I discovered the car has.
  7. Here is the latest update on the cage assembly. cage.pdf All bars are continuous through their penetrations in the body shell (even though it looks like maybe not) connecting the front and rear corners of the chassis together with essentially a truss. This setup has SERIOUSLY stiffened the car up . As a bonus, the front interior trim will cover the a-pillars and halo bar. The firewall 'glass' and interior trimmer will fit nicely behind the main hoop (with a little trimming) .. That should make for a tidy interior. I have built some CF composite seat using a Recaro Pole Position seat as a buck (3.5# each) Those will be mounted right against or perhaps into the floor pan.. the main hoop cross bar will serve to support the shoulder belt loops. ----------------------------- Notice the front upper shock mounting and CrMo suspension arm in the first pic ... all the suspension links are rose jointed and full adjustable hanging on QA1 double adjustable coilovers on Eibach springs... cool eh. Ive got lots more on the go on this car for anyone interested.. my garage page has more.. but not all.
  8. Its been a while since Ive been on the forum.. so to update you.. After about a years work, I finally finished the 85 project and have now put a few good miles on her. After some mods and tuning we got some great numbers on the dyno, and with some spirited driving under her belt, have discovered just how well an old Giugiaro can be made to handle and how well mannered one can be. This car has exceeded my expectations in all respects. Its an amazing car! I am also working on the '84 Esprit S3R project (road/comp super-leggera) At this point I have the 8-point cage installed, the 300mm 4-pot brakes and all the double adjustable coil overs and adjustable suspension links done and have most of the molds ready for the CF body bits. The engine is at Omni-Tech in the USA getting a lightened crank, 550gm pauter rods and custom built CP pistons for the GT2871 turbo and 321 tubular manifold setup we are building. The gearbox will be a UN1-26 fabricated to work with inboard brakes. I am looking forward to completing the engine and pulling CF body parts in the next few months, while I also work to remove the cage and bodyshell to prep the chassis for powder coat and reassembly. I am excited about getting the S3R completed, Ill try and keep you updated on the progress and if anyone is interested in the project, please feel free to email me. Jan
  9. Hi Bibs.. if that is truly the case.. (which is what I originally thought) I think Lotus need to do some damage control in the USA. I have talked to three separate dealers in the US since this deal was offered and not one of them are happy about it. Apparently, they tell me second hand, that other (dealers) they talk to are mad as well.. I started to hear about this when I first approached a dealer (of which I have had a 20 year relationship) to order me some "sale" parts.. I was politely told to piss off and then told why. What I have written above is simply a polite version of what I have heard.. I hate to see this sort of sentiment, since Lotus are trying to regain some recognition and respect these days with all their great products. Thanks for your input.. if you have any pull with Lotus may be a good time to suggest some phone calls. regards Jan
  10. I dont know why you feel you have to talk in extremes and worst case scenarios all the time.. that is not what we are talking about here. I have developed some very sensible and well behaved cars. To your credit, you do make some valid points.. ..of which all need to be considered and accounted for in any chassis tuning program. However, by your tone, you seem to think I obviously have no idea what I am doing! You are entitled to call me down. However, the one thing I do have is the knowledge gained by experience. (that I am willing to share that with anyone that is interested) seems you aren't, so well leave it at that.
  11. Are you sure thats bar, and not 9psi your seeing.. it would answer a few questions here... in any case, from my experience, a good S3 (at least the ones dyno'd here) will pull about 215-225hp and 220-230 lbft at 9.5 to 10 psi with peak hp at 5400-6000rpm I agree with the others.. If your seeing 0.9 bar.. thats a lot from a T3 with no IC.
  12. Jon.. while I respect your opinion.. I trust you are speaking from experience. I have done over a few Esprit (with professional race car fabricators I might add).. I have reverse engineered the Esprit suspension data into a 3D suspension analysis software program to find the limits... (and the bump steer issues you imagine)... I have even run the cars in the conditions you worry about (with no drama).. your argument is simply that.. By the way, your car appears to sit a lot lower than the Can/US S3 and Stevens cars.. in which case 30-40 is too much. Lowering the car does required more spring and damper control hence the ride is not soft and cushy anymore. But lets face it the Lotus IS suppose to be an exotic?! If the springs and dampers are too stiff you will have a very uncomfortable car to drive.. The springs on these cars dont need to be uprated very much at all and damping needs to be only enough to control the wheel. Heavy springs and tight dampers will have ruined the cars comfort and road handling for sure.
  13. Hi Marc.. Maybe.. anything is possible I suppose these days
  14. Hi Dan.. Try going up one main jet size or down 2 air correctors. First though, make sure the pressure pipe connections to the carbs are sealed and be careful NOT to over tighten the fittings on the carb tops (the book torque is WAY too high and a near guarantee to break them). Use new fiber washers on the carb tops. If these pipes leak, your float chambers may not be running at the same pressure as the plenum (or very slightly higher actually) and your carbs will not meter properly under boost. Set your max timing at about 19 degrees.. thats about all I could use on 94 octane without getting the occasional detonation hickup on the dyno (around 4000rpm on 10psi) These engines in stock form may rev nicely but wont pull much power over 6000 before power dives off.. the cams set to the US spec will give more bottom end, but run out at 5800rpm!! I suspect a T3-60 stage 3 turbo will help since the T3-4x that is used OE is great for throttle response and low end boost performance but they are very inefficient at the larger airflow numbers required above 6000 and also generate way too much intake air temp beyond that level. At 9.5-10 boost you may find your dump valve leaking or opening early which can give you an instant 50hp loss! You may need to shim the spring to get it open at around 11psi.. (the valve is an over-boost protection for the carbed engines since no ECU avail to manage it.) hope this helps.. Jan
  15. They are about 1/2" less diameter than the 235/60 (25.75 vs 26.2inches) For me a 255 at 25.2 would be perfect.. Mind you the 555R do look like they mean business.. and they do deliver!
  16. Ahh a fellow norskie... I am originally from Bergen.. good to hear from you. The tires are on original width wheels.. honestly the rears are a bit wider and taller than I would prefer, but they still fit well and look good. Here is a pic of my girlfriends lowered 88 wearing them.. same wheel sizes (I dont have a pic with them on my 85 but its very similar)
  17. Bibs: I dont believe that Hans needs to worry about that for a minute! I have had amazing success lowering the Esprit even up to 40mm (the limit IMO): Hans: Expect the following: Improved steering feel Lighter steering Improved handling Less body roll Slightly stiffer ride (not bad though) Much improved appearance If you CANT get lower springs: Simply remove the OE springs and shorten them the amount you want to lower the car based on this formula: The front motion ration is 1.5 to 1 so only remove 0.66 times the amount you want the car lowered eg: 30mm lower=20mm removed. On the rear the MR is nearly 1:1 so remove the amount you want to lower the car. Once you remove the spring height, have the machinist flatten and grind the top of the spring so it will sits more or less square in the spring pan (allow for this in the calcs). I strongly suggest you get the springs removed and cut professionally because the fronts especially need to have special tools to remove and replace them in the shock assy. Trust me.. its worth it , Jan Ride height differential is important.. lowering the rear more than the front may or may not give the desired handling results. I would perhaps consider swapping to a SPAX type adjustable ride height rear shock so you can play the ride height settings. If you go that route then getting SPAX type all round, with adjustable damper settings is worth it as well since adjusting damper settings can affect the cars transient handling characteristics. J
  18. Marc.. All the math in the world is no substitute for real world testing.. all very interesting stuff mind you. Les.. I can say for certain that the Nitto/BFG combination is bar-none the best dry tire you can put on any 15" wheel Esprit.. I dare anyone to test the limits!! I guarantee you will get scared before the tires do. My Esprit was transformed and sooo driveable at the limit! Jan
  19. 275/50/15 Nitto 555R rear with BFG KD 225/50/15 front - F'n AMAZING!!
  20. This helps a huge amount in my engine bay..
  21. Here in Canada, I use "Marine Goop" it is clear and bonds rubber seals like nothing else I have used. It is also removable by simply peeling it off. it takes overnight to cure, so you have to tape the rubbers in place.
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