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  1. Meguires makes good stuff.. never used the d-grease.. Ill have to try it. As for the aluminum.. not much makes it look as good as a little acid wash IMO.
  2. Actually Castrol super clean is very alkaline.. Perhaps a dilute solution would do it. I didnt get carried away with neutralizing, just lots of cold pressure wash water.
  3. Love the Castrol Super Clean to remove dirt and grease.. As for the aluminum, I use concrete etching acid wash (Behr), a phosphoric acid base, that is not too strong.. it works very well on all the metal parts actually, but does wonders for aluminum. If you spray it on the galvanized chassis tubing it will lightly etch it in minutes and looks like new.. works on carb bodies as well. To kick it up a notch, add a little sulphuric acid. DO wash well to get the residue off or neutralize with an alkaline wash. If you can rent a proper steam cleaner to remove dirt and grease first, so much the better are the results, in less time. Avoid hydrochloric acid.. its useless.. and anything with nitric or hydroflouric acid works well on aluminum, but it is VERY hazardous to use. I will be testing industrial strength peroxide next, to see how that works.. J
  4. Hi Andy.. I live in Canada and have no dealer contact other than Dave Bean at the moment. DBE asked me why they would be interested in accepting an order from Lotus, direct to me without adding their usual mark up, or relisting at retail price! .. a point, I suppose. But the whole intent is for Lotus to help us out by selling old stock at decent pricing. DBE would be happy to take my order, but not to resell to me at the discounted prices advertised. How does that work elsewhere with other dealers? Are the UK dealers on instructions to participate in this scheme? I send a properly itemized PO. It would have been nice to have Aiden acknowledge my request, and perhaps suggest a dealer in the US that would cooperate in selling me parts. I had a huge list.. It just seemed to me that the customer service, all round, was going to be PP, so gave up on it. J
  5. Why not use the distributor as the trigger and move to a remote coil pack? Saves the need for a crank trigger mod.
  6. I hear that Quaife have a nasty habit of making "special run" product replacement parts instantly obsolete. Be warned that it is likely that the SM ATB diff will be a limited run, so, if it breaks, my guess is you will be SOL for replacement parts. Just ask M Rodrigues on this forum about the drama and loss he experienced with the 6-sp seq he got from them, for his G. It cost him 25K USD to buy and fit and put very few miles on it before it needed parts.. Quaife were absolutely no help. He wound up scraping the 25K investment and put in an RBT 6-sp instead. Dont want to rain on the parade.. I would love to have an ATB in my SM, but at what risk? If Quaife promise to provide at least 5 years of customer support and parts (at a fair price) then I would consider it. J
  7. Ethelene Glycol AF is also highly toxic.. consider using Propylene Glycol AF instead. Also recommend doing a litmus test periodically to make sure the coolant is neutral PH. Use distilled water as the water component of the cooling system, where possible. J
  8. Good points Wayne..The soft mounts also serve to isolate the carbs from heat soak from the manifold. As far as the trumpets go, I tend to agree, however, I just cant seem to accept the 10mm clearance as a good thing. I think the principle is valid, but I bet any gains in response and drivability are lost as a result. If it wasnt for the boost, I bet performance would suffer at the top end as well (probably does to some degree anyways). The injected cars actually have shorties cast into the plenum.. maybe Lotus realized the same thing I have, and changed them out. I will be able to tell once I get the 85 back on the road (which is looking like early May now) cheers from BC.. sunny and 17 today..
  9. What would you like to know? It produces a lot of data. The data I have is based on my car lowered with 17 wheels. The data I have is preliminary. I still need to take the output sheets and confirm them against the car to make sure I have an accurate model.. J
  10. Ive just redone mine..some pointers: yes the kits cost a fortune.. but get the correct turbo kits. It is important to make sure the entire system is air tight or youll loose boost... including the pressure balance pipes.. use new fiber washers and dont overtighten the banjos. Make sure the carb to plenum gaskets are a good seal and same with the plenum cover. I use hylomar. Also notice the velocity stacks.. IMO they seem too long only leaving about 10mm clearance from the intake opening to the plenum face.. personally I think thats the cause of a lot of the metering problems people are having.. the clearance should be the same as the bore of the stack IMO. I replaced my stacks with 12mm shorties vs the OE 45mm ones. Make sure all the internal ball check valves are free and sealing properly. Make sure you adjust the pump pushrods so that they activate the pumps evenly and at the slightest throttle movement. Make sure the butterflies are adjusted to open together. Set the main throttle stop at exactly zero clearance then mount the carbs on the manifold and zero the adjusters of the second carb from that, that way you should be very close to a balanced startup. Once running you can fine tune if needed. I adjust by focusing on the vibrations and sound until both are smooth as possible... I do the same for the idle mixtures. I tend to be able to fine tune the overall idle mixture strength by the smell of the exhaust (not so much on a cammed engine tho')...its a style I have developed. I replaced the OE soft mounts because I didnt like the way they restricted the intake flow.. Some say they give better low speed atomization and economy.. but I will find out.. I suspect a small increase in idle jet size would cover the mixture requirement of removing them, at the expense of fuel economy, I expect. Hope this helps.. you can PM me if you more help along the way. J
  11. Been there.. done that.. no response??
  12. That might be a good idea... so when browsing forum topics one can go directly to view a contributors garage page. Jan
  13. Hi Mark.. I live in Victoria BC and have 2 of these addictive Esprit projects.. my latest car, the 85, sounds a bit like yours (but perhaps not as weathered as yours) I just want to let you know my fuel tanks were rusty inside and I had to get them acid dipped and sealed inside.. how were yours? Did you get the RH tank out? They are a bitch with the engine in, but I had no trouble getting mine out once I figured the "technique" of how to rotate and twist them as they lift out. Good luck with your gearbox diff and input shaft.. your story made me shiver when I heard what you found. The diff parts for the SM gearbox are not plentiful. I have to say.. I like working on these cars..perhaps thats the joy lotus planned into them.. cheers Jan
  14. Whats cool is that you can take the OE spec and run the data as a baseline.. then modify to tune in characteristics you want. For example, it will tell you, say at 1g corner force, the steering angle, the roll stiffness, the weight transfer to each corner and the camber at all four wheels, so if you find at 1g you have 4 degrees of roll, by adjusting the caster/camber settings, you can dial out positive camber on the inside, and target say 1 degree on the outside. You can tune out any bump steer as well (which surprisingly, the 84 had a fair bit BTW). You can even tune spring frequency to mass to optimize ride comfort vs stiffness. This is stuff Lotus would have killed for back in 85 when designing the car... and we have it on our desktop... aaahhhaaaa. J
  15. I have a very cool piece of 3D dynamic suspension analysis software that some of you serious gearheads may be interested in exploring. I currently have extracted data for my modified 84 S3 but can modify it to suit any Esprit (or any other car if the data is provided). What I would need, in part, for other Esprit is to update data for the corner weights, wheels, springs, hub geometry, and other minor tweaking, for the various model changes, user settings, and send out PDFs. If there is enough interest I will have to produce a data input sheet for each of you to fill out, and each of you with a new project would have to CAREFULLY AND ACCURATELY measure your cars suspension components and locations in 3-axis (the components I dont already have in the model, that is)... obviously the more accurate the measurements, the better the results. I have actually found ways to completely eliminate bump steer and optimize geometry on my project with 17" wheels, lowered, and coilovers. I have adjustable everything, which helps to set a baseline to start testing with. It will take a fair bit of time on yours and my part but the data would be good to have available for others in future.. maybe even Lotus Engineering would be curious to compare the various outputs. Any serious interest out there? Jan
  16. I think the AC spring is not worth considering unless you are willing to adjust the springs install height. (lower the lower spring pan) I figured that the OE S3 spring rates are about 125 lb/in on a 1.2 motion ratio front geometry; that would mean (if the AC springs are the same rate) that 1/2' more spring length would require about 55lbs more weight each side, or 110lbs of AC equipment directly over the front wheels to restore OE ride height.. The AC may weigh in at perhaps 40lbs max on the front suspension.. hence a higher ride height for a given install height. Maybe Lotus' thinking is that the added inertia of the AC mass needed more spring and that the spring lower pan height would be adjusted lower on AC cars to return ride height to original. just my 0.02 worth.. Jan
  17. From what I have learned over the years, I think they are all a huge waste of money.. J
  18. Surprisingly similar apparently. Engine bay cross bracing and shifter cutout reinforcing plates I think were the extent of upgrades.. anyone else with more on this?
  19. Who was the resourceful fellow that did the 3D rendering of the G? I am going to look for a user of some decent CFD software. My theories on the G-car: I believe that the front undertray acts like a venturi and creates a decent low pressure area.. but perhaps its function is to improve radiator outflow. The louver kick up I think may create less pressure over the louvers giving better airflow thru the engine bay from below. The rear kick up at the tail may be of some use, but I think it would create (if anything) a local high pressure ahead of it perhaps cancelling out some the low pressure effects over the louvers. If it creates downforce it will have to add pressure ahead of it. I think the rear kick up looks good tho' My understanding on aero objectives are as follows: Allow as little air as possible under the front of the car by utilizing front air dams, splitters and top vented radiators. Allow as little air as possible under the sides of the car by utilizing and low edgy side skirts that make it hard for air to flow from the sides to the underside. Provide a means for the smooth transition of under car air to exit the rear ie: diffuser Provide a means for pressure balancing the surfaces of the car. For example, apparently, the front wheel arch top louvers on endurance cars serve to allow higher pressure from the wheel well into the low pressure topside of the wheel arch, hence pressure balancing. I think the same principle applies to top vented radiators that exhaust in the low pressure area over the front Provide for the smooth transition of air from high to low pressure areas and visa versa. Provide radiused leading edges and sharp trailing edges on surfaces Reduce parasitic drag from protrusions, edges, gaps etc The topside of the car is more difficult to analyse... Most cars are like the topside of wings.. they lift. The shape would determine the center of pressure(lift) and the little tricks like kick ups, fences, gurney flaps, spoilers, vents effect if and how the lift/downforce/drag is created/lost. Thats the part Id like to know more about. J
  20. To start a fresh page on the subject; I am (as it seems others may be) very interested the aerodynamics of our cars and the effects of trim and other devices used over the years and ultimately, on competition versions of our cars. The aero study that Lotus did intrigues me. I am not sure if anyone in Kimbers' circle can help here, but I am very curious (as others may be) to learn about what aero configurations were tested, what was analysed, and the results of the testing...surely someone knows. I understand that an Esprit (one of unknown config) showed a net positive downforce front and rear, however, so far, I have not been able to find any evidence to support that claim or numbers. From what was mentioned by Kimbers, it seems that Cd was indeed tested, but I am very curious of any other tests that were conducted. If the testing was exhaustive, there must be a huge body of knowledge available. It would be very enlightening for this info to be shared. One of the fellows (sorry, I forgot whom) on this forum has developed a very accurate 3d model of the S3.. I believe that a joint project with the 3d model and someone with access to FluentCFD or similar SW would go a long way to creating productive data that we could all benefit from. Jan
  21. Not yet.. I have some now and will try it shortly..J
  22. I could see that to some very small degree.. however, the noise is mostly from pressure pulses in the intake system, not so much the valve shutting.. Webers are notorious for enhancing that noise. (which I do like BTW) Not much you can do except muffle it.. like Lotus did on the MK2 lotus cortina.. added a honkin big muffler on the intake system to quiet the intake noise from the webers on the twin cam.
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