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  1. Managed to dig the car out of the snow today and take a look at a few issues. My GOD the PO would have destroyed a perfectly good car if he had had more time in ownership. Believe it or not, the PO (the guy in town that bought it in 08/2006 from VA) has cocked it up so bad in 3 months of ownership, no wonder he sold it out of frustration. Good thing for me, and for the car, it seems.. List so far: -Had white plastic dryer hose from airbox to turbo inlet -Has removed the vacuum and boost lines from the dizzy -God knows how the rest of the vacuum lines are sorted out. -Has throttle jack and FP microswitch bent out the way and non functioning -Has carb throttle adjuster so loose that it takes 2mm of throttle movement for the second carb to actuate -The jet covers on the DHLAs where the pressure balancing tubes fit have been over torqued and one the thread boss is broken, the other is stripped So now I need to get new DHLA jet coverplates .. anyone have any they want to part with?
  2. Here is a bit of a trick question. Maybe some of you have experienced this... This 85 turbo I just bought used to have a fully functioning "recently replaced" clutch, however, after about 3-weeks of sitting outside in the rain, the clutch wouldnt disengage (which is when the PO got fed-up and decided to sell it to me). The clutch pedal operates and feels fine, and the foot pressure is smooth and progressive, lots of throwout movement, just as it should be, however the clutch wont disengage the transmission. Question: what are the odds of A) diaphram gone south, B ) clutch disc stuck to flywheel, C) siezed pilot bearing , D) disc bind on the input shaft splines, or E) something else? My concern is if I assume it is a disc stuck to the FW (which I suspect) and do the break-the-clutch-disc-from-the-FW-trick either by applying hard throttle or brakes, and it is a siezed pilot bearing that takes the shock, I could be into some bad news. Sure, the best solution is to pull the thing apart, but if it is a little rust on the fw face holding things up, thats a lot of work to go to just to emery the faces clean. However, if it is the pilot bearing, its best to not dick with it, and just pull it apart. Anyone had such an experience with their Esprit? Any other tests anyone has tried to eliminate posibilities? Any bets or odds on what it is?? Once we get this dammed freak snowstorm we had last week melted off, I will have another look (didnt even get time to garage the thing before it was covered to the top of the door sills... global warming my arse.. thx J
  3. If you decide to go with one, I am in process building an alloy FW for my S3.. I can get two of them made if you are interested.. expect it to cost $700-1000 for a one-off. PM me if interested J
  4. Thats a good thing Lee.. it not easy taking chemicals cross border. I would like to know who makes a good aluminum cleaner.. I have used the sulphuric/phosphoric acid route with reasonable success, and hydroflouric works well, but is very dangerous to use. I havnt found a good non-acid cleaner that is worth its salt yet.. Got any suggestions?? J
  5. Perhaps the dudes name was'an A friday afternoon build I assume.. Kinda my guess as well.. curious what a 108 camshaft would be? Perhaps its the 8th test engine (like the car SN which apparently start at 100)
  6. My basic phylosophy on NA engines has always been: Properly modified cylinder head High lift and longer duration cams Highest compression possible (CR selected depends on cam) light flywheel exhaust upgrade rejetting and ignition recurve. water injection if needed. Believe it or not, I used to run 12.5:1 CR in a road going 69 1310 Cooper S which had a pretty radical cam (VP3C) and had no issues on 94 octane and water injection. 135hp and 0-60 in 5.3sec was not too shabby either. Gary Kemp in UK is the 907 guru... J
  7. 2300 members and no one has any leads.. Perhaps Mike K has some ideas.. Mike
  8. Hi Lee.. I have seen a simple battery charger used with good results!? Not much else is complicated tho' Yes, it does take more time.. I guess it depends on the rush one is it. I have tried acid pickling with HCL/ Sulphuric /Phosphoric acids, but dont like the reports that acids can embrittle the metallic structure. Ill check into D-Rust-It, sounds promising cheers J
  9. Hi all.. I just bought another Esprit to add to my fleet, an 1985 S3 turbo, Black/Tan. It used to be owned by a fellow in Richmond Virginia. The fellow is part of Chase Competition Engineering, a Daytona Prototype specialist shop.. Interesting part is, the car has had an engine replacement, apparently its a Lotus Development Engine. The engine SN# is THC-DEV-108. Can anyone shed light on the engines history or its development program?? I believe was part of the development program for the 86-87 HCI engine... but where it came from, and who owned it is a mystery. thx J
  10. How about electolosis removal... dead easy and enviro friendly..
  11. This is what I have done ..
  12. Have you had the corner weights checked and balanced?? Take the car to a race shop and get that done. All sorts of ill handling and bad manners can be caused by unbalanced corner weights. Also check your wheel circumferences to confirm they are the same diameter... if they are different, you will have unbalanced braking torque, even IF the rest of the braking system is 100%... Jan
  13. I have spent time talking with Giles Denning at Pectel USA about the subject. He is of the opinion that knock detection is not at all easy to tune reliably because the technology we use is just not up to the job (besides, most of us, except F1 engineers, dont have a clue how to go about it). He advocates adopting a slightly conservative approach to ign and fuel mapping. ..."Give up the quest for the last few LB/f and save yourself the grief. The risk for the last 2% is not worth it on a road car, and since most of us arent overly concerned with maximizing economy or minimizing emissons, there is little point in risking an engine." Call him for advice.. he is very knowledgable. Jan
  14. Much appreciate your input.. I will check out cardomain for your OC setup. My thoughts on a setup are similar to yours. I was thinking of having a slightly narrower rad with the inlet and outlets dropping out the ends down thru the recess in the rad tray and follow then follow the OC line route. I was planning to do away with an OC since I figure that most modern synth oils are far less in need of temperature management. I have heard arguments both ways on whether an OC is really needed these days (for a fast road car living on Vancouver Island)! The jury is still out on that one for me.. cheers Jan
  15. Mike Rodgreques (mchlrodrigues) on this forum has 426 dynoed hp in his S3 and he knows all about what turbo does what.. he has tried them all... he is very much on top of the tuning.. so I would suggest a pm to him.. J
  16. I will be fitting a Chargecooler, Radiator and Johnson pump to my S3 as part of my mods. I was wonder a few things.. may some of you can help.. 1) how are the radiators constructed such as inlet/outlet location, radiator size, material, mountings, etc? 2) how are the water fittings configured.. do they drop under the inlet duct where the hoses are then connected and routed to the engine bay? 3) are they available for purchase, or do I need to have one fabricated? appreciate any help.. thanks Jan
  17. Marcus.. what would you recommend instead for PP and disc? J
  18. Tell me about it.. I lucked out when I found 30m of 6k2x2 for my project.. wasnt cheap either!!
  19. Perhaps he was a rookie Ferrari owner, and thought yours was a Ferrari too The thing I notice the most with F-owners around here is they all drive them like panzies..
  20. Thats why its called a medical "PRACTICE"!!! Best of Luck..J
  21. Hey Troy, nice work.. Imagine using your finished model on Fluent or some other CFD program and finding out exactly what the aero does is on the car!! BTW I reverse engineered my S3 and modelled the suspension on Susprog 3d so I have coordinates and dimensions if you would like to compare notes or need some checks done. I have yet to print out the data and calibrate the model to the car.. but soon. keep up the good work ..Jan
  22. I am going to try thinsulate acoustic insulation (super light weight) and very good attenuation above 2000 hz. The lower frequencies are a bit more challenging to eliminate without using the multi-layer multi density composites mentioned. I am stilll looking for options. I do notice how much noise comes thru the firewall area openings, like the speaker holes and other penetrations. So I bellieve sealing/ damping those would help a lot. Also, the interior fresh air outlets are right by your ear and exhaust to the car exterior near the engine bay air intakes.. I would think a lot of noise finds its way into the cabin thru that route. The OE insulation in my car tipped 60lbs!! I want to eliminate that weight AND the noise.. my 0.02 J
  23. these guys have great products, great service and good prices.. and the stuff we need for our cars (except the boot and deck lid seals)... actually still looking for a source for those..(you know the oval shaped tube)..
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