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bobbak

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  1. bobbak

    LEW Oxford Meeting

    Hi mate can you pm me the bank transfer details and amounts required for the day dont want to miss this one. unless you mean via the new payment links. regards rob
  2. I am going to agree with the other guy here my oil feed pipe to my left turbo holed the hole was so small you could not see it with the naked eye and it was pushing oil onto the manifold causing smoke if it turns out to be this I have spare pipes here just let me know!! little short on gaskets at the moment though if it is that rob
  3. the dvla should tell you iif the request is official they will know providing that the vehical has been mot tested and that the clocking if carried out has shown an anomily with regards to previous mots (ie) the milage has gone down not up otherwise its a little hard for them to actually know. but there are some visual checks you can do to establish if this has happend to you. there are only three ways you can clock a car 1) change the odometer unit for one with a lower indicated milage the risk here to the clocker is that unless you know what the previous mot milage was you run the risk of taking it for the next due mot with a lower indicated milage than previously recorded and then have to answer questions and the fact that this milage difference is present will be recorded. the manufacturer will have a record of what serial number odometer was fitted to your car 2) disconect the spedo cable which stops the odometer from turning except in digitised versions however there is a method of doing it here but I belive if you disconect the speed sensor on the digitised spedos the vehicals computer records it and when the on board computer is interigated it tells the technician of the disconection. 3) on clocks that use the rotating digit milage indicators you can move the digits by hand with the aid of an instrument screwdriver a good indocator of wether this has been done is it is hard to get the numbers to line up straight afterwards and often the last couple of numbers are distinctly out of line. also look for indentations on the side of the number wheels. plus on the back of the spedo unit itself is a sticker that has an adhesive that is hard to interfere with so often the sticker will be torn or disformed in some way. other used methods are wind forward disadvantage slow as you have to use a drill to rotate at any type of speed that will get you round the clock and you run the risk of burning the nylon cogs out inside the unit. if you are in any doubt and want an answer dependant on how you view the police each force has a vehical crime unit within which are trained technicians who can spot anomilys with a car that would indicate that the milage does not match the wear on the vehical wy not ask them if they would like to look at your car at the end of the day you aint done nothing wrong. regards rob
  4. bobbak

    LEW Oxford Meeting

    All being well count me in for this aswell would like to actually be able to put faces to names sort of meet the family day really. bob
  5. better explain this one a bit better to avoid confusion. I have the service sheets they are the same as in the owners manual and here on LEW maint mod and tech what i want to do is remove the engine strip it and rebuild it and thats what i need the how to guide for things like torque settings for head bolts correct lubricants sealers ect I need to know how to get the engine out what panels to remove ect ect there is no rush as the car is running ok at this time infact it goes so well I have a perminant cheesey grin on my face but I know that the head gasket is flawed and it is only going to get worse over time and there is the unquantifiable factor so to have these manuals would be of a distinct advantage. hope this clarifies. rob
  6. ok fellas who on here is the man to talk to to get a set of workshop manuals i would also like a complete set of service sheets there is a seller on ebay does them on cd rom but the last ones i had off him for my old car did not work so a little reluctant to get bitten again. any info would be appreciated rob
  7. this looks good will have to do some measuring tommorow to see if it will fit in the space. cheers rob
  8. novel idea but lookin at some of the pics i think i might be a little limited on workable space have to think a bit more on this one cheers rob
  9. I like this one but i would be a litte concerned as to its lateral stability could see it toppling sideways quite easy but worth a second look cheers rob
  10. I am considering buying or more likely leasing a mobile car lift as I want to be able to work from underneath the car the problem is space as i only have my house garage so i found these. 2 cylinder electro hydraulic ram system Platform length adjustable Surface mounted for easy installation Low profile only 150mm None skid aluminium alloy surface on lifting platforms Space saving design only 1950mm wide Technical Specifications Capacity 3000kg Lifting Height 1800mm Lifting/lowering times approx 50 sec Drive Over height 150mm Total width 1950mm This one is
  11. oh I read it twice but the thing is that he tells you about the damage on the rear quater and the shell snapping above the filler cap even in your wildest imagination it would be hard to explain that one into a bike, truth is i dont know but he aint contactable via ask seller a question which makes me suspicious but even if you bid your not bound to buy if the item is misleading or so im led to belive so if you stick a picture of a car on ebay in reality you should be selling a car not a bike. going to e-mail him via his web mail and see what comes bake if it is a car its going to be very rough i am convinced of that but if it is genuine then its still cheap to buy and strip. rob
  12. Whats the deal with this? seems a little cheap to say the least
  13. I am considering buying some parts some i need some I dont all I want the part numbers are as follows cambelts C918E0298F spark plugs A918E6039F Primary Injectors A918E6014F Inlet Gasket B918E0027F Exhaust gaskets A918E0028F Head Gaskets A918E0029F Turbos B918E0060F what I am not sure about is if they are right for my 2000 v8 any ideas? they are advertised as for a v8 but that don't mean they are so i got the numbers to x/ref. any info would be helpfull regards rob
  14. Yes mate i have that problem only not as a result of washing though although it has happend after a wash but i didn't attribute it to the wash at the time. Mine do it if i have used the brakes hard and then parked up and left over night I always thought it might be down to thernal expansion but as the brakes were always fine after that crack I never really bothered to investigate further just thought it to be one of those many anomilies. regards rob
  15. yep it does help Stu at 38 Bar equivilant 558 Psi I would expect the water in the block to be blowing out constantly via the second expansion tank and that is not happening definatly food for thought there thanks M8. regards robert
  16. Hi all I started this thread because the liners thread was diversive enough now I need to be a little more specific with the questions an did not want to run away from the original topic. from the other thread water loss could be indicative of liner failure and I have ruled that out, along with minor leaks from coolent system I have fixed I am now water tight. I reckon that the head gasket has a minor flaw but as the oracals quite rightly say you dont want to rip the engine out and start stripping and i am not 100% convinced just jet. so here is the question what pressure does the engine develop within the cylinder chambers during the cumbustion and exhaust cycles? The reason I ask this is that during the pressure test of the cooling system I had a standing pressure within that system of 15 PSI As you know the dye penetrant test and i will correct the previous statment here showed that thier were trace elements of Co2 within the water during normal idle running. This would seem to sugest that the co2 post combustion was escaping across the head gasket into the block cavities and over pressurising the coolant system thus pushing the water through the expansion tank into the second tank and dumping it over board. however this was not evident during the idle run, Therefore the pressure must be below 15 psi at idle, could it be that during increased Rpm the pressure increases dramatically not sure does it rise significantly above 15 psi? now the second tank in the wheel well if I seal this tank from atmosphere what reprecushions could I expect would the system cavitate if yes could would a non return valve that closes when coolent under pressure acts upon it and opens when the tank is empty prevent fluid loss. would cappilary action allow the coolent in this tank to feed back to the main system or is not possible. some points to consider. regards rob
  17. Ok this is what I have found, pressure test of coolant system carried out few small hose leaks found nothing major and duely fixed. radiator extremely well carroded wondering if a new replacment item should be done regardless or wether a recon of the old unit would be an option, new unit seems a good idea maybe one that provides more viens for cooling could be found any one got some suggestions here please. dye penatrent test carried out on oil it containd water although not visable to the naked eye, pressure test of coolant system carried out no oil in engine sump plug removed no water leaked out of the sump suggests the liners are ok? wondering if head gasket might have minor flaw if so we are into serious money and if not already done we might aswell do the liners while we are in there fixing that. and seeing as how the engine will be out the gearbox may as well come off and we could replace the clutch with a competition version suggestions? if I am strippin the engine heads of to do the liners should i have the forged pistons? pluss any other bits you can think off? info welcome gents
  18. Hi Rob I understand the concept here however I would have thought that some water if going into the sump especially at the shut down point after the car had stood a while would eventually settle to bottom of the sump so by cracking the sump plug and looking for a small dribble of water before oil emerged would be a sign that the expensive option was a possability or rule it out. what do you reckon? If it does turn out to to be the feared liner anyone fancy a weekend engine stripping and rebuild party Ha!Ha!
  19. Just out of curiosity how much did a new rad set you back? rob
  20. Cheers will give that a try was going to pressure test the coolant system on tuesday but will try that first, regards rob
  21. Could this be fate or just bad luck I now seem to be loosing water but with no evidence of any external water leaks but I am not loosing vast quantitys of it for example it took two weeks of every day driving from the last coolent level check doing aprox 500 miles in that time before the heater stopped blowing hot then the tempreture rose to above 100 degrees and I shut it down the coolent low level sensor in the expansion tank had packed in. I got it home in stops and starts keeping the temp at just over 100 to 115 max let it cool down for a few hours then replend the water it took maybe two ltrs aprox poss less then ran it heater bled and working now temp within normal limits. apart from liners where can water escape from under pressure that will not show a puddle on the floor common places going to check sump for water content soon as I can until then not moving it. A few ideas would be helpfull please regards rob
  22. Hi M8 unfortunatly there are a lot of cars out there now that have comparative performence to the esprit Audi have a couple of thouroughbreds in thier stable and I suspect you met one, as for which one dificult to say but i suspect it was probably a quatro derivitive of some type. Its interesting to know that there a group of moders out there that like making thier mitsabushi evo's kick out upto 1000 Bhp and they would literly wipe the floor with any esprit not to mention most of the italian supers and be very close to keeping pace with the macleran. but dont dispair as not one of these cars stock or moded has the lines the appeal the attention drawing capabilities that the esprit has. In boston lincs where I live there are shed loads of these lads/men that go through thousands of pounds making thier cars sub 5 sec 0-62 and probably a lot of them would blow my standard v8 aside as they go by but they all stop to have a look when i park it and go into town. So I geuss its a question of what you want. do you want to be able to wipe the floor with everything you may ever come across or to know that you own one of the most beautiful pieces of machinery none to man, a concept that was derived of devine insperation. As a matter of personal choice when some one with a very fast car looks in my direction and thinks Humm I'll have a go at that I rarely go above 60 as it winds them up so much and they look so daft flooring it looking in the rear view realising that I am just pottering along then they brake and try again and i wont play so they will never know if they would have won or lost. hope this helps ease the pain.
  23. I am pretty sure that bite point has only a minor point to make as a reference to potential clutch plate failure, a more indicative sign that the clutch is on the way out is the degree of effort needed to depress the pedel. pre failure the pedel is almost impossable to press down, my clutch bites near the top of the pedel travel on the way back up as a giude but the take up is quite sharp. and requires little effort to depress. regards rob
  24. Hi all I would like to know as near as possible at what mileage your cars sufferd from the failure of the liner sealent. or infact has it never shown any indication of failure? Also what year was your car manufactured (ie) the engine build date? If your engine has had a rebuild in its history due to this problem was it done by lotus under waranty? I would be greatfull for as much info as you can supply. thanks in advance. regards rob
  25. Thanks for that info Andy I am in the process of moving house at the mo but will be ordering one asap as I reckon my O2 sensors are playing up and I need to identify which one it is without incuring a huge bill from a dealer for diagnosis time. regards rob
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