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Everything posted by Jonathan

  1. I think most people know this already but his words of wisdom have been invaluable to me this week. That pipe I was fighting all day yesterday came off within 10 seconds using the method you described - such a wealth of knowledge is hard to come by. Gawd bless ya If I can get another billet of ali the same size I'll knock that pulley tool up for ya. Thanks again.
  2. So what am I bid the fact if he does get it the Hammers will be playing in Green and Gold next season ?
  3. From the alarm itself there should be a purple + blue wire, that is the live feet to the alarm. Follow the wire as best you can and it should lead to the fuse. Wiring under an Esprit is and can be a tricky business, where I have seen fuses on 1 car, they are not in the same place on another. If there are no lights on the immobiliser/alarn tell tale then there is a liklihood the alarm/imobiliser is problematic - fault finding on your own can be pointless - you're probably going to get more joy out of calling a specialist out to fix it. Did you try manually locking the doors and see if that helps ?
  4. (cool kids cover your ears). Yup limiting power can be a terrible thing for new / in-experienced drivers - just as bad as too much power - just as rich says. The amount of times I get to a hill and the driver says "blimey my dads car can make that in 3rd" as they have to change down. I think 1.4l in a hatchback is perfect - I had a little Fiesta sport when I passed and looking back it was a great 1st car. If I was buying a car for a new driver I'd think seriously about getting something with some handling credentials, there are a lot of accident cases where new drivers are keeping by the speed limits but something catches them out, they panic and lose control very easily. Cars are heavier nowadays and since we're talking about insurance and not safety (heavier becuase they protect the nut behind the wheel better) that is a concern as there are situations I can think of I got into with previous cars I've driven that I wouldn't dare do in others - even though they were within the legal bounds. A lot of it is experience and knowing what they, the driver can do, and what the car can do.
  5. Alarm fuse is generally just under the steering wheel column. You have to lay in the car head facing the pedals legs poking out of the sun roof (pretty unfomfortable) and get a head torch. It can be hard to find in the nest of wires but it is under there. Taking off the trim behind the steering wheel can also help. The last thing you can do is switch the cars main lights on then remove the key and open the door - the "lights on" buzzer should sound (which warns you that the lights have been left on) - the fuse is near this buzzer sound you can use the noise to try and locate it....might not work but it's a good guess. Does sound like the alarm has got the arse, hopefully its a quick fix. I had a fella come to me with an electrical fault on a V8 once and the alarm dieded. He found that the antenna of the alarm had come off so the key fob would not un-immobilise the car - if you have a push in key, try that as well. The central locking doesnt work either right ? What about if you try the ignition key in the door lock - try shutting the door and locking manually (you'll fee the solenoid pull the lock down and hear it too) - I have seen a car get stuck with the central locking before, preventing the immobiliser from working. Try locking and unlocking and see if that helps - only thing I can suggest.
  6. Ouch, thats prob corrosion swelling - its the split bush. Can't really over tighten that - the threads would strip before that cracked. Oh well, at least you havent gotta worry about taking it off and keeping it intact (note to self, must turn rear studs)
  7. However, they were quite happy to do this in 2010 season though, right I think it has far less to do with the name and more to do with how much they can eek out of the herritage to further their own gains (both sides). Sad to see Champan's great legacy in a tug of war.
  8. Absolutly spot on, after all that we get a verdict pretty much of - "as you were". Its like 2 kids pulling a toy "its mine, no its mine, no its mine" - rippppp.
  9. Yeah i think its rotten what some people charge for insurance - they're being priced off the roads for other people's mistakes. You know more than I do Ian, that youngsters can go 1 of 2 ways - either keep driving propperly or go absolutly bonkers once they pass and abuse their freedom they just spent 6 months and £1000 earning ! This system rewards the sensible instead of a blanket punishment (like the proposed increase in alchohol prices), tbh some of the 'just passed' lads and lasses are people I'd rather sit in a car with than some poeple who've been on the road for years ! As long as its always an opt in scheme I cant see it being a bad thing at all.
  10. Perhaps they meant law abiding motorists
  11. I remember my 1st shot of Jupiter and seeing the 4 major moons and was awestruck - thats a fantastic photo Cliff. Its so amazing when you can actually see objects with your eye that look so beautiful on the TV. Wish I still lived in California - nights were so clear there we used to do the waynesworld thing (cept mine had much better fixtures and fittings than Mike Myers ) very little light polution and so on....sigh... Wish I still had access to the 20,000mm lenses as well from work Major regret not doing some photography when i was there So whatcha go that snapped that pic apart from a very steady arm
  12. Yup std, low mileage - dunno whats wrong, could be the wastegate capsule sticking or something - its not too much of a drama just of mild irritation.
  13. Thats one prob mine has, the boost 'level' under direct wide open throttle isnt exactly stable - it fluctuates here and there. Thats why when the car was dynod the bloke lifted off too early, the boost / power dropped slightly and gave me a bad reading on the last run.
  14. I tend not to believe much nowadays until I see it with my own eyes - some people say scepticism, I call it experience ? Cmon lets see 'em
  15. Yer best bet with a engine bay fire is CO2 with a small line perforated line around the inside of the bay, so if there is a fire - set off the extinguisher and let it rip, can be (should be) cockpit activated by a solenoid on a doomsday switch or more commonly a pull wire so you yank the bastard, get out and dial 3 nines. If I had a G car this would be my 1st mod, seen too many owners pour their heart and wallet into a rare as rocking horse shit carb car then watch it go up in flames. Trying to explain someone needs it is like talking to a brick wall but its the last job going on the Jag - we've spend nigh on a year completely rebuilding it and I'm damed if I'm not gonna put a £400 system in there to keep it all safe from some silly occurance. Opening the lid will just say to fire "here, have some nice cool air to breathe !". But either way the car will burn (you seen GRP go up ?) - and cause catastrophic damage before trumpton get there so I think it's really upto you whether you pop the lid or not and how brave you are. One thing that cracks me up, is when ppl get extinguishers and plonk them in the car. Either they dont know how to use them, cant use them , unbelievably too small, or they are in there so long that they no longer work. You must have seen it....people pointing at the flames not the source If you can tackle a full on engine fire with one of them 1 litre flamebeaters, then by all means - crack on. I have said flame beater in mine, simply to deal with anything silly - GT2's wiring is starting to crack in some areas now and I cant see to fix it all - some of the old Lotus wiring leaves something to be desired as well (GT3 is good) plus old owners mucking about with gaffa tape and these silly twist connectors. They are handy, if a small smoulder starts happening under the dash - key off - give it the good news and then pull the battery. When the GT3s starter overloaded out to the engine (3rd partys starter) that could have cased a bay fire and its things like that a tiddler can stop a small silly thing becoming a full on insurance job - whether it'd have a fuel fire is another matter....
  16. I've not got it fitted mate The OEM solenoid is till there inline with the new solenoid. They way I see it working - and it's been explained to me (which I am initially sceptical about) - On boost the OEM will rise to the chipped level, both the boost controller and the ECU and paying attention. Say you set the boost controller to 0.85 (std boost for discussion sake) the ECU will pretty much manage this one, the boost controller may chirp in here and there depending on which one reads and controlls the boost faster. Now turn it upto 1bar Initially the ECU is handling the boost until it gets to chip controlled level (0.85) then it starts to moderate and maintain that level. The boost controller still wants to play so it's bleeding more air to get it to 1Bar. The ECU goes hang on, we're getting too much boost, and will ultimatly shut its solenoid off completely to try and reign it in - however now full control is on the boost controllers solenoid whilst the ECU is working out why when it's overboost solenoid is shut the boost is still rising....I'm convinced it'll have the arse with this as I've seen the ECU have the arse with much less important probs before but we'll see I've still not fully decided what route to go. Some of the expensive contollers I have seen have knock sensing and so on as well ~ $500 but you're getting a fully tunable chip in some respects. I say this is how it's been explained to me and seems logical - show us your installation and we'll see whats the same/different.
  17. Nice job PS love the write up on boost pressure and temperature working against your means - most people just go for more pressure + more pressure wihtout thinking of what they're actually doing. Great write up - seriously one of the most informed + plain English things I've read on here.
  18. As in switching off and handing the control back to the ECU.
  19. Derek, yeah I just checked that - never ever had mine up that far though (boost not RPM) - I could grab the binary for you....will Espritmon do that ? (think it does) Mine boosts to exactly 0.85 bar (confimred it about 3 ways) I wonder if this is the same for the later GT3's ? The earlier ones were 240hp, the later quoted as 260 which would make sense, eps since a 2.2 litre S4 is only 265bhp so reducing 200cc and upping the boost makes it fit. When mine was dynod with some mods it was ~256bhp (although the overboost curve was not exactly smooth) and mine is an earlier GT3. Answer to me current prayers could be the later code then... ? I also have some other binaries for the GT3 - if I can dig them out do you want to take a look ? Whats your e-mail or send a mail to me (addy in sig) and I'll send them back for you to look at. Lucas, I mean turn it back to normal - ones I'm lookingat you can program overboost and then at the push of a button the thing goes dead and stop working allowing the original ECU to play instead.
  20. Ian we used to have robins nesting inbetween the house and the garage, all 3 of them jumped nest early and then darted into the garage (fun trying to round them up) They soon learn to fly - or at least hop hop into the trees. If its really that small then ^ as above, cat food. We rescue all sorts (loads of cats and dogs around here and the house backs onto a wood so you do find a lot of lost souls in the back garden) - and have a tin of food for just case emergency, fits birds, hedgehogs and even squirrels will eat it.
  21. Ref the 1st bit - this much is true although I rarely boot it until warm anyways, but for someone less sympathetic I get your point. Rest of it is valid points, I think my situation is slightly different in that I only want to peep a small amount of boost, probably 0.95bar which shouldnt introduce knocks or error codes (the GT3 engine is pretty nice - never knocks under any conditions I've driven it in). If the error light comes on - left hand, switch off boost controller. If you do finish the code and make it public I'm sure there'd be a substantial reward for your time - I'd pay for it - If I was a clever man I'd do it myself but I have enough things on my plate atm, without learning more stuff. It's what I've been suggesting for years - group together and pay someone to pull the code apart and make available the options for self tuning to the community. If I chipped the car I'd rather I know everything that went into it than just 'pay and pray' on someone elses words - might sound harsh to the good suppliers out there but I've been / seen people get bitten too many times by 'experts' only to find out the job could have been done cheaper and better myself. Chargecooler impellers and suspension bushes spring to mind......
  22. Indeed but I still have to buy the chip at...looking at PUK....e890 !!!! Tbh I'd rather spend it on a nice £300 boost controller and reach forward and adjust it with me left hand safe in the knowlege I know whats going on. Having experience with other products purchased at premium prices from some retailers, you might understand my hesitation to part with my hard earned If I could program the chip myself - so I know exactly whats in it then I'd probably go that option, but at the end of the day apart from a few functions like radiator fan temperature etc - what does it do that a boost controller wont ?
  23. LOL Travis on an 80C day I bet you have to wear shorts Lucas- comments ref to the data log you posted. I never get much more than 10c over ambience on the chagecooler with standard boost. I'm 1/2 tempted to my make own bleed valve from a regulator and a few turned up fitting just to see what happens if a small leak is introduced to the overboost circuit on a standard chip. I've had a lot of turbo cars, we used to make out own bleed valves and so on - of course on the Esprit something electronic is needed incase a spike leads to £4,500 rebuild - but it's of interest to see what actually goes on. Prob with your chip is that with freescan we go from being able to see in, and beyond into theory world. Again nice thing about boost controller is in the flick of a switch you can re-set to factory and compare an identical run. What I've done in the past is 3am on the deserted motorway leave it in 5th at 20mph then floor it and log the data. As we were chatting about on the 412BHP thread, your inlet tamps are robbing you of serious HP. I think it was Dermot that theorised 1hp per 1/2 degree. Im a big fan of not keeping the inlets freezing cold but stopping them getting too hot. I noticed a massive imporvement on my car when i took the rad housing out and cleaned everything up....debris in the radiator and in my opinion the cowling itself restricts flow somewhat. When my rad popped I yanked my rad out - fitted a new one with larger bolt on fans and no fan cowling - I am convinced there is more flow becuase my inlets are markedly down (25%) for the same ambience. I found the standard system was relativly efficient with an electric pump - mine goes from max inlet temp to normal temps in a matter of seconds once off boost. The other thing I did was fit a REAL temp gauage in the inlet and air intake. The MAT sensor can be a false reading as heat soaks into the aluminium, the outer body of the chargecooler can be hotter than the actual air I have found which conducts into the sensor. Looking at the absolute real temps you can see the original system works pretty darn well. Rmember also with Dynos is the fan at the front might not create the same airflow need across the chargecooler rad, infact I bet you $100 it doesnt at 5500 rpm in 4th ~105mph. This is another important factor, real world tests show for me that physically driving it on the road yeilded much more favourable results becuase of the increased air flow. The only thing I would do to drop inlet temps now is to fit a reservoir, like a termal capacitor inline with the charcooler system so it holds more water, more water, faster flow = less d temperature = more average boost. The idea that other fella had of running the chassis pipes external to the car and in a larger diameter is exactly what I thought would work the best - that way the volume is increased and they dont soak heat inside the chassis tunnel with the radiator pipes etc.
  24. Yeah it works like a dream, I used to 'grow' iron oxide like this when I made thermite (you think Im joking) All these rust removers eaters and just a sack of crap and often prime the metal for re-attack (most of my metal ready'd parts are re-rusting now, even after POR15) I know nothing, but if I was restoring another car - I do what we done on the E-Type which is parts off, de-grease in fairy (cooeey) liquid - chuck it in the electrolysis bath on big wonga amps to blow the rust off, let it dry and wire bush and demel too to get into the pits. We found this little old man with a superb zinc / nickel plating business - befriend someone like that (they usually like whiskey) and they will often do very good job acid etching and electro plating over the metal.....then paint it. You can get good rust convertors (kurust seems to work well) but they are in comparison to soapy water, very very expensive. POR15's Metal Ready seems to accelerate the metal up for rusting instantly - I dont know why this happens but I stopped using it ages ago and dont recomend it, its expensive, acidic, makes fumes and you have to dispose of it correctly - it strips metal fine but I can remember doing parts and thinking "Yeah this is good" then a day later ALL the parts are covered in red spots whilst the electrolysis all the parts were spotless for weeks in the same room... The more sacraficial elements you have based around the part to be cleaned the better, exactly the same with electro plating in reverse - or just rotate the piece to be cleaned so it has an even chance (electricicty will always try to find the path of least resistance).
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