Tony K

Hi S22fan, 324J is the chassis number of an Esprit S2.2 that I own. It is a RoW car, left hand drive, and was imported to the U.S. in the early 1980s. What do you mean by what brand is it? (By the way, might be better to message me than take this thread off course!) Cheers, Tony K.

Hi Giovanni, If you haven't gotten it adjusted yet, in addition to Paul's video, take a look at this thread: Cheers, Tony K

A little too well!!!!!

I'm in Nashville, Tennesseeeeeeeeeee!!! How are you, Bibs???? There's only one Tony K. I can think of who is more suited to revive this thread!!!!! Kimberrrrrrrrrsssss!!!!!

Methinks it's time to revive this thread!!!!!! How are all of my friends in the UK and around the world doing???!!!??? Kimbers!!! . . . Bibs!!!!

Going from memory here -- aren't you supposed to torque all of the nuts and bolts with the car on the ground and someone sitting in it?

A belated Welcome, @omegaman! I used to own 508H, not far from yours! Congrats on the purchase; message me if I can help with anything. Cheers, Tony K.

Typically on the Veglia gauge, the point where the red zone meets the green zone is somewhere from 15-20 psi. As a general rule, if an S1's needle stays out of the red at idle on a hot summer day with the engine and oil fully heated up, then I don't worry about it. If the needle dips into the red, I look into it. On a hot sunny day (85F degrees or higher), oil fully warmed up, driving on an expressway, the needle should be at or close to the middle of the gauge. Maybe a little higher, maybe a little lower, depending on vehicle speed, outside temperature, and engine RPM. If it is much higher, you either have a really tight engine (unlikely), a massive oil cooler, or a minor electrical issue affecting the reading. On a cold startup, I have seen the needle be anywhere from 3/4 of the way up to all the way at the highest point. Readings I have taken were around 80psi, but that was only a few times and it was a long time ago. There is a pressure relief valve on the oil pump, and I think variances in the OPRV might be what is allowing some to go higher than others (but tolerances also could play a part). I once had an S1 whose oil pressure gauge readings varied depending on whether the lights were on. Somewhere it must have had a dirty connection or ground. It was a federal car, and if I had the headlights or just the parking/running lights on, the gauge reading would change noticeably; I don't remember which was higher or which was lower, but when you are driving around, you should turn your lights on to see if it makes a difference. I would definitely get a mechanical gauge. I connect one to my S1s about once per year as part of their "annual checkup". Also, on the topic, if you feel like a little project that might be verify gratifying and will pay dividends over the long run, drain your oil and remove the sump -- unless your engine is recently rebuilt, I can almost guarantee that you will find all kinds of crud -- bits of gasket and sealant, etc., -- stuck to the screen around the pick up tube. Removing that stuff makes it worth the effort, and you will feel so much better the next time you start the car. Be sure to loosen/tighten the sump bolts in an order similar to how you would do a head gasket, and don't overtighten them - Workshop Manual gives the spec, I think it's only about 5 ft-lbs. ******************************* David, just read your post more carefully (what I wrote above was a general response, didn''t notice who it was that had posted the question) -- if you have a sliver of green (let's say a needle's width) between the needle and the red zone, that's probably 20psi, maybe 25. Right where it should be on a new, tight engine. Get used to that needle almost touching the red at hot idle. Cheers, Tony K.

Per jonwat's comment, the Coopers head gaskets were notorious for leaking. It was not uncommon on a cold night for coolant to drip down the exhaust side of the block from the head gasket, but to not leak when it warms up and expands (liners too high relative to the deck). I wouldn't be surprised if coolant found its way into the sump somehow after years of sitting (i.e. liners not high enough relative to the deck). (Or the liner nip was/is correct and the gasket just leaked.) If the oil is brown and the coolant is green and they're not mixed up like chocolate milk, then you know the engine never ran with coolant in the sump and that it happened after it was taken off the road.

The automatic tensioner is so easy to adjust once it is in place. And I trust it. I do not enjoy setting the fixed tensioner. And aside from originality, I would not retrofit one to an older car.

Hi Jani, I don't remember for sure; I experimented my way through it -- I tried using small washers on a few; on others I lifted the leather and skimmed some off the back with a Dremel tool to make the leather thinner; and in other spots I may have also just pressed hard enough that it compressed the leather and stayed on. I also don't remember whether I used one or two or three washers -- may have varied by how tight it was. I initially used screws and nuts to fasten the clips to "test fit" them so I wouldn't have to drill a rivet for a clip that was too tight. Once I was comfortable that it would fit, I used the rivet. The rivet pulls with a lot of force, so make the screws tight. Thinking back, trying to remember, I would probably use washers throughout as a matter of course. If they rattle like Paul's did, I would apply a tiny dab of RTV silicone to the back of the clip/on the washer with a toothpick. I hope this helps! -Tony

Sorry, I do not know when they went from the long boards to the two-piece ones.

May as well write this down. Who knows, maybe my children will be curious about their dad some day and want to read it . . . As a young child, about four years old in the late 1970s, I was with my family at my aunt and uncle's house for a holiday (pretty sure it was Thanksgiving). While waiting for dinner, I was sitting in the living room watching the color TV. At this point in my life, I was already a car nut. Loved cars. There on the TV was a white car. In beautiful scenery. I loved how it looked. It looked faster than all the other cars. I really liked the shape. I was mesmerized by this car. It was perfect. I didn't quite understand when the car went into the water . . . really, to a young child it was kind of confusing. I liked it better with wheels . . . was hoping to see more of the car after that, but there was only a little bit. Then it was time for dinner. Never forgot that car. Later that year for Christmas, my brother and I received a slot car set as a gift. It had a yellow car and a white car. The white car looked exactly like this: This photo is from eBay (not my actual car), but I still have the original actual car. As I grew up, I saw Lotus Esprits here and there on television. Rockford Files. Knight Rider. Miami Vice . . . Then in video games, like Test Drive and Rad Racer: (That's an Esprit on the left. Unfortunate that in playing the game you had to drive a 328...) By the late 1980s, I was reading car magazines like Car & Driver and Road & Track. Couldn't wait to read reviews that included the Lotus Esprit. When I was a freshman in high school, in our Public Speaking class, I managed to include the slot car as a visual aid in a speech, in saying that I hope to have a *real* Lotus some day, not just a toy one. Total car nut. As I read the car magazines in high school, I became fascinated with the technical aspect of the Esprit, and with the ethos of the car. In the 1980s and ealry '90s, it was a very advanced car -- 16 valves, DOHC, turbo charger, later a chargecooler, aerodynamic, and the body was made from some kind of a composite, not just boring old-fashioned steel. And of course it handled better than anything. And it made all that power and speed from just a 2.2 liter four -- that was impressive technology compared to the others who needed six, eight, ten, or twelve cylinders to go fast. It was cool. And the nature of the car as I understood it was a good fit for my personality; if I were to express my automotive values in a car, it would be the Esprit. I dreamed of some day owning a Lotus Esprit. Not long after getting my driver's license, I bought the "poor man's Esprit." "This is the closest I'm ever going to get to a Lotus," I thought: I had also been fixing things my whole life -- clocks as a small child, motorized toys a few years later, radio controlled cars, mini bikes, and then at age 15 I started learning to fix cars. I had owned about ten cars before even finishing high school. While I was in college, in the 1990s, the whole world changed. Pretty things, happy music, electric guitars and synthesizers, beautiful people, bright colors, and cool cars were out . . . and a general disdain for beauty, miserable "grunge" music, "unplugged" coffee shop culture, and olive drab were in. Affluent kids at colleges across the country went to Salvation Army and Goodwill stores and bought old clothes to try and look like they lived in hard times. And most of all, cars were very, very uncool. Especially sports cars. Especially exotic cars. If you liked or owned an "impractical" exotic/sports car, it meant you were a simple minded, insecure, egotistical jerk who was "compensating" for his three-inch thingy. Pop culture had taken a complete 180-degree turn from the halcyon days of Miami Vice and Cannonball Run. I never cared too much what other people were into, though. I still wanted a Lotus Esprit, and still liked my cars. I probably owned another dozen or so cars through my four years in college. All of them were uncool -- mostly sports cars. Did not care. I was browsing a news stand at a big box store one night in college, looking at one of the magazines where they sold exotic cars (Robb Report or DuPont Registry), hoping to see a Lotus Esprit. Found a few. Strange, though, I thought -- there must be some mistake on the price; they cost no more than a new Lexus or Infiniti. On subsequent trips to the news stand, I began to realize that those were the actual prices. The Esprit SE that was $100K when I was in high school had fallen to $24K-$35K. At this point in my life, I had already been involved in a few car clubs. When I started to ask car people I knew about the affordability of a Lotus or other exotic car, the line I most often received was "It's one thing to buy them . . . but servicing them is where it gets expensive..." I thought to myself . . . "People who do well in college and get good jobs can afford new cars like Lexus and Infinity . . . . so if I do well in college, I should be able to get a good job and afford that kind of car . . . and I've been fixing things my whole life and taught myself to fix 'regular' cars; I don't see why I can't teach myself to fix a Lotus . . ." So I decided that the dream of owning an Esprit was a lot more within reach than I had thought. All I had to do was work hard and get a good job . . . So to motivate myself to study and do well, I bought one of these, painted it white, and put it on my desk: I also bought books and buyers guides about Lotus and Esprits, and read them cover to cover multiple times. Still have all of them. When I finished college, I got an entry level operations job at an investment firm. I started saving for my dream car, a Lotus Esprit. I invested and saved, and also bought more broken "regular" cars and fixed them and sold them. Like these, for example: As an intermediate step on my learning curve of teaching myself to fix cars, I bought a Porsche 944 in mediocre condition and needing a clutch to learn from and use as a daily driver: That was the first of about ten 944s I owned, racking up over 350K miles driving them daily, and servicing dozens of them for others. Then, after about a year at my job, I sold 2 or 3 Fieros, added some cash I had saved, and bought my first Lotus: In the months leading up to it, I couldn't decide between a Turbo Esprit or an S1/S2. Every buyers guide at the time (late 1990s) told you to avoid the S1 at all costs, and that you should only buy something S3 or newer. Buying a notoriously unreliable, rare exotic car that everyone says to avoid, at the age of 23 on an entry level salary -- what could go wrong? On the other hand, I thought it would make a good first Esprit, as it was simpler and might be less expensive if I did have a catastrophe. And while not fast like a Turbo, it did fulfill the imaginations of my young childhood, of that magical white car that I saw on the television so many years ago. Indeed I had every catastrophe that S1s were known for. But by this time I had been fixing cars for 7 or 8 years, I received some good guidance from a few club members, and I understood that with something like this you have to be careful, not heavy handed, and most of all READ AND FOLLOW EVERY WORD IN THE WORKSHOP MANUAL. So I enjoyed every moment of it. I enjoyed every moment of servicing, fixing, improving, washing, waxing, and most of all driving my Esprit S1. That was twelve Esprits ago, twenty years ago, sixty-five thousand miles ago, many journeys and adventures ago, and most of all it has been through many great times with the many great people I have come to know and call my friends along the way. Cheers, Tony K.

Hi Roy, Check your messages! -Tony

Probably ok. Never pulled on that span specifically, but I do recall the tensioner being touchy like that when static. I am always careful when taking the tension reading that the engine's last movement was completely clockwise (that it didn't get bumped backwards even the slightest as to reduce the tension). What I would make sure of: As long as the tensioner has two springs inside the piston and the piston moves freely in any and all instances, I think you are fine. With the tensioner looking like that, I would disassemble the whole thing, clean it, new grease, and replace the neoprene washers, and maybe the bearing depending on age and condition. If the pivot does not move smoothly or if there is excessive play (rare), consider replacing the bushes. When the tensioner is apart, rotate the piston within the cylinder, and rotate it while moving it in and out, to see if it binds at any point. I don't see anything in the Workshop Manual about a ground strap on the tensioner, but many of the early cars I had and worked on had one or some remnant of one. So I always make a new one when I service the tensioner. A simple curved wire from the 10mm bolt to any bolt on the body of the tensioner, using eyelet connectors. Hope this helps!