910Esprit

The dye is quite easy to spot with a UV torch. even in ambient light - so you will be fine in your garage. My guess is the compressor shaft seal, but obviously a guess. However its worth changing out the original hoses anyway. Cant see any major issues with your plan other than gas is expensive.... It may also be kinder to the environment and 'more legal' if you run the test with the hydrocarbon gas you were planning to use (the 3 cans illustrated earlier). Replacing oil is a black art, there is some good reference material available from Sanden online. NB I've just bought one of those super cheap Chinese gas sniffers as I'm chasing a leak in my daily driver. probably be a couple of weeks before it arrives. I'll let you know if it works

@Andyww identified a replacement condensor I believe I've still got the orignal 35yo unit, which is working well. I removed all the black goo while replacing my hoses, it peeled off easier than it looks. It doesn't seem to have caused any issues. It mainly covers a massive flare fitting, which also steps down the hose size. its pretty much an obsolete fitting that requires a revised solution if you replace it - I used a combination of a new flare fitting and an inline reducer to get where I needed

If you mean the black tar goo - that's standard & correct! I assume its some kind of anti-condensation 'stuff'

I wonder how good these are? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Air-Gas-Leak-Detector-Halogen-Tool-CFC-AC-Freon-Refrigerant-Leak-Sniffer/113866128097?hash=item1a82f33ae1:g:hVgAAOSw-HxdFyFC

Would another option be to take it to a professional who should have far better leak detection equipment, then you could opt to do the remedial work yourself once a leak is detected?

That was my thought too. I was advised to ensure the entire liner surface is sealed into the block (admittedly on a 4 pot). Presumably it reduces the risk of 'fretting' or movement during heat cycles

There is no filter between the tanks and the pump , so contaminaton is always a risk as fuel runs through the entire pump (Lucas 4FP) - Original tanks have a strainer (unserviceable) at the fuel outlet. Maybe afterr market parts omit this?

I had one the same colour as that in 1978 (BDN 886K - now green according to MOT checker), purchased for £475, ran it for maybe 6 years, before it was replaced by a TR6. They are great little cars.

Don't think that will be your issue. Those accelerator pumps suprisingly powerful Are you using the fuel enrichment device duing start/warm up cycle, or relying on just extra jabs on throttle?

Fake! - Hot Wheels car with macro lens

Even more reason to make sure you dont waste it!

No - you must always charge low side 5psi an hour is a massive leak (relatively speaking). Dye is useful, helped me find a leaking union. If you still have original hoses. I'd be tempted to change them all, as R134 has a smaller molecule size and apparently can leak through old R12 hoses (are you using R134?) I would have thought 5psi per year would be nearer the original spec!

Thats the best way to do it - it just lifts away. Also the nuts at the end of the bar are now square to the lower arm and easier to remove/replace. I agree and use Poly for all the roll bar bushes

Mine indicates less than 90 on a run (regardless of speed) I get paranoid if it gets any higher than mid 90s! (but thats not to say all guages and senders read the same). Bear in mind it will tend to run hotter if you have fitted new rings/pistons/liners. I also think that 110 is far too hot (if accurate). While the engine is running, go around the car and repeatedly violently squash as many hoses as you can get your hands to - e.g. to 'burp' the cooling system.

I've not noticed any tendency to lean-out during fast sweeping left/right handers - There are a couple as I lregularly leave/join the A1M where I have a sustained pretty high conering speed.... By 'stalling' do you mean its hesitating? NB - I use a vernier to set the float height relative to the top cover, not fuel depth - although that sounds fine in principle.