910Esprit

Agreed - The vertical axis looks pretty much unchanged, but the horizontal axis has moved significantly - No idea if this makes any difference!

Would there any negative effect on the geometery by moving the upright pivot point a couple of inches? (Trunnions originally pivot on the outer bolt of the lower arm)

From an engineering point of view, this is unlikely to be the case. One of cast iron's properties is that it can run with virtually no lubrication, which is why it was often selected for high stress mininimal lubrication applications. Presumably you also assembled using Graphogen, or similar, and primed the oil baths that the cams run in? MAybe you are correct that the PRV had always been stuck, or maybe some form of contaminent fouled it? Is there any chance that you could have had a tight valve guide after the rebuild? I was just considering any possibility of a hammering action on the follower face on initial build. I'm sure you will have better luck this time!

From Windermere, another recommendation for PNM - Not too far from you - Wallasey, Merseyside

What's everyone's view on 40 year old sodium cooled exhaust valves....?

I'd want to satisy myself that the valve stem has not picked up any damage. i.e.bent or nicked from the bucket jumping around. In the grand scheme of things the cam belt is not too bad in situ. You also have the 'easy' set-up without AC!

If you need one in North Manchester, recommend Lovers Lane garage, Atherton. (ask for John) He'll work with you to get it done and has been doing mine for over 20 years. As we have discussed on previous threads, under no circumstances would I go anywhere near any 'big name' chain garages.

And I recall that was with the earlier S1/S2 chassis - still have the article in one of those Brookland compilation books. I would perhaps also suggest that a non-standard setup for an individual in the US would not necessariy translate to the UK, as the roads, tyre choice, climate, replacement parts etc. and driver preferences are not the same. NB Fabian that 'stumble' is very common and some people have successfully ironed it out with larger idle jets, so definitely worth checking. (I also generally run 43's - although I dont run a standard LC setup). NB even another counterclockwise turn of the mixture screws, with your 40's, may alleviate it, or prove you are on the right lines - although it will also put your idle CO out of MOT range

In my service notes, the front toe (trunnion cars) is specified as 2mm overall (i.e. 1mm per side). If I'm reading your post correctly, I think you may (incorrectly?) be suggesting 2mm per side?

I see Harry Metcalf was eulogising (again) about his G Turbo in his latest video (his review of 2019 costs) and that's against some serious competition.

Erm, although I own a fabulous, ultra reliable, zero cost, £200 micra K11, I would not have thought of including in the list (also VX220 there too)

How come? - I just set up simple jig that held the carb at about 5 degrees down at the intake side (so any drops as well as the pump jet spray could be captured) , I then ran an extended fuel pipe from the engine bay to keep the carb being tested at the correct presure, then captured the output in a clean jar. Then used a syringe to measure the output after I'd done the 20 strokes. It was a bit of a faff, but not technically complex and no special tools required. It was a useful exercize as it demonstrated that there was not a 'standard' setting and results varied between old & new diaphragms.

I found that there were significant inconsistencies between old and new diaphragms and also each rod needed tuning independently to get an equal measure of fuel accoss all chokes - To achieve this I followed the book process of measuring the output at each choke for a given number of strokes. The best you can hope for by measuring threads etc is a datum or reasonable approximation! I used Sikaflex to fit my louvres, which did a great job, but fear they may never come out again!

You could add shock absorbers & mounts to that list! I had a knock that eluded me for months, it turned out that the diameter of the lower shock absorber mounting bush was larger than the (correct) mounting bolt - That was on an original Lotus supplied part!

Look's fine to me - (as mine has always lined up to the front of the sprockets) - It would only concern me if it was overhanging a pulley. As Gary has observed. its been like that for a long time - more than 2000 kms (always?). The fore/aft alignment is controlled by the crank pully, with no adjustment provided. If you 'recentered' the belt, it will simply move back to its present alignment in a few rotations. For peace of mind, it would be worth double checking the tensioner, but I doubt you'll find anything wrong.