910Esprit

Good spot. May also have given the FPR diaphragm a bit of a work out!

Way!

I mean rotate the engine until the crank is 1 2degrees BTDC then align the rotor and the pickup on no 1. cylinder, this will roughly equate to setting the timing to 12degrees BTDC, which is the starting point for adjusting the timing

Yes, the one at the back is 7mm the 2 on the relay lever are 8mm!

Also worth changing the sleeve bolts too (item 22), they will be worn and corroded and are not expensive.

£20 - £100 ish There are loads of clones, copies and branded versions on the market. I agree that is beyond statistical likelyhood to have 3 failures in a row even with a £20 pump. Surely the smoking gun is a mechanical issue, e.g. somat in the tank? Could also perform a post mortem on a proven failed pump?

Align the rotor & pickup at 12 degrees before TDC static (not TDC) with the corresponding pliug lead going to cylinnder 1. Check you are not 180 degrees out by ensuring the cam pulley dots are almost aligned. Adjust timing with a light once you are running.

Maybe hotwire the -ve/+ve terminals directly to the battery and re-test?

In addition to the different weight of gas, I think most of us have slightly hyprid systems, eg I run a smaller compressor and the diameter of some of the piping differs from original, some of the other guys use different condensors etc , so I set mine up using temperature/pressure charts, but the gas used will not be identical to others.

Fuel pump is fed directly from Inertia switch, I would therefore see if you also get low voltage immediately before & after the Intertia switch. If voltage still low, trace the white feed back to the ignition switch and recheck there. NB The CE ignition is not ballasted.

Richard - I recall posting the length in inches.... probably on this one if you trawl back

Can't believe this thread is now 5 years old. Anyway, as encouragement for anyone considering the work, here's today's reading: 2.3 at the vent 19 degrees anbient. R134, stock components and a £15 (presumably a fake Sanden chinese copy) compressor.

My near neighbour's decking has provided me with very good kindling for the last several years and several more to come for this very reason. The same guy also ripped up his pattern imprinted concrete drive for the same reason!

Original pump on mine was a Lucas 4FP You could use a reducer: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10mm-to-12m-Connector-Reducer-Barbed-Joiner-Hose-Pipe-Union-Water-Air-Fuel-Gas/222191560064?hash=item33bba62580:g:SLsAAOSwMsVXjdTV&frcectupt=true

Why not check the engine vacuum with all 'accessory' hoses disconnected and blocked off at the manifold rail (apart for a take off for the vacuum guage) - If you have still have a low vacuum, then you can rule out the 'accessories'