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910Esprit

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Everything posted by 910Esprit

  1. @stevefh Hi Steve - It's available on APKPURE Carbon Drive Old Version (All Versions) APK Download (apkpure.com)
  2. Its Gates Carbon Drive. I use an older version (1.2.1) as I prefer it to the later versions.
  3. I did it on an S2 in a lock-up single garage without any problems. If I recall, there were about 6 'lifters' and we put an Acrow prop under each wheel arch to allow the chassis to be rolled out. Presumably if you measure the height of the top of the engine to the floor. And measure the bottom of the sill to the top of the car roof. These 2 figures added together would provide the scientific answer!
  4. Mobile phone with Gates Carbon Drive app. NB Older version of Carbon Drive is better than the newer versions, so I re-installed an older version and suppressed it from updating
  5. The way I read the post was that the gauge/pressure was not progressively reducing during warmup, but as if it was reading high and then 'suddenly' dropping at some point in time. If so, such behaviour could be to do with the oil stat I guess but doesn't seem of major concern.
  6. Glad to help with the memories! There was also a lesser-known branch in Bishop Auckland too! Gilson Audio was an ex-employee. Seem to recall his shop was originally on Borough Road or Southfield Road. Many older locals seem to have fond memories, as this was in the days before the lowest common denominator out of town shopping.
  7. Were you still local to the Tees area in the 70's? My dad was the owner of 'McKenna & Brown'. Had a very successful branch in Redcar. Not so easy to imagine these days...
  8. Yes, that sounds a little unusual to me. I would see that on initial startup, but then steadily drops to around 15psi on hot tickover. (20/50). TBH, I don't see much difference in behaviour if I switch between 10/60 15/50 20/50. If you have not changed to the oil since purchase, I'd suggest a new filter and a recommended grade.
  9. That finisher is the same as my 84 model, which is still an 'early spec' version (pre-dates glass roof and trunnion deletion).
  10. Ditto what Andy says. Also by fitting one end on the car I could get the hose length/orientation exactly how I wanted it. I would imagine the cost of having this done professionally would be fairly prohibitive, certainly more than the cost of your own crimper/materials. From memory, Andy has the more upmarket hydraulic crimper, whereas I used a mechanical version. Both work perfectly well and I still have working, leak free A/C some 8 years later!
  11. You need to thank Theresa May for introducing a law/loophole that pretty much allows you to stay in this country if you claim you were trafficked here. It is rather irritating that the MSM would not touch this story for several years, now they won't talk about anything else, when it is their latest 'pile on' regarding the Tories perceived failings
  12. I once had a caliper fail as the 'splines' had stripped off. Would also check that the handbrake lever is articulating through its full movement - ie check that the cable is not pre-loading the operating lever. From memory, there is a 'lump' on the back of the pad to hold the piston in the correct alignment with the handbrake mech?
  13. Some of the hose clips at the lower front of the engine are 'tricky' to access with the engine in
  14. I'd consider removing the whole upright with link attached (which is actually pretty straightforward) and take the assembly to someone like PNM in Wallasey (Merseyside) for him to remove it for you. I would image that could be done before January. And you would presumably save some money on disassembly/assembly.
  15. Not to mention the massive porky about a Scottish currency, which will not happen even if independence does.
  16. The metal pipe is connected directly to the turbo compressor, so that the wastegate 'sees' what the boost pressure is. i.e., if the air passed through this pipe is greater than atmospheric pressure, it tries to open the wastegate by deflecting the diaphragm, which in turn is counteracted by the wastegate spring to determine how much air pressure is required to overcome the spring tension - eg the boost pressure you see on the gauge. So... A strong spring gives more boost by holding the valve shut longer and a lighter/worn spring would give less boost by opening sooner
  17. It's very common (I would almost say standard) for the seat in the adapter manifold to be cracked and degraded, but any leakage, at the seat, also reduces the overall pressure in the exhaust turbine and therefore the boost detection pipe (located in the turbo compressor housing), which in turn will slow down the opening of the valve (cos there is less pressure acting on the diaphragm), thereby counteracting the leakage. My assumption is that boost will be moved higher up the rev range, but the overall max boost will be unaffected.
  18. As you assume, the gasket is irrelevant to boost as the only gas going through that part of the manifold is the gas that has already been released by the wastegate valve. As we know your turbo can produce 11.5, so I'd agree that the spring is the most likely culprit.
  19. I'm not convinced there will be a Labour landslide at the next election, certainly the most recent by-elections do not suggest that. There was little swing to Labour and a lot of pissed of Tories seemed to veer towards the Libdems. (Speaking of which, I can't understand why the Libdems are pretty much absent from the media these days, If I was them, I'd also be sticking the boot in and coming up with some sort of compelling offering....). Unlike Andy, I'll wager Starmer will lead Labour into the next election. He may be dull as ditchwater, but he was the architect and successfully steered the party from left wing obscurity back to the central ground with a real shot of election victory. Not sure that has been a demonstration of scruples, but it was an achievement against much internal opposition.
  20. I also think there is also an issue with the media here, endlessly micro-analysing and putting a negative spin on everything. If there was a story of some 'external actor' influencing the electorate, there would be a massive media bruhaha, but nobody seems to bat an eyelid at the media itself meddling in politics. Having said that, I think it was wrong to potentially use borrowing to fund tax cuts. Although I seem to recall that the last Labour government's economic model was also to fund spending from future projected growth, and nobody was too concerned about that - although that didn't end well either!
  21. @snowrxI've added some links to my gearbox tools on this thread:
  22. Gearbox tools Box spanner is 1 7/8" = 44mm Note how it is reinforced and has a hole cut the same size as the driveshaft, which keeps it perpendicular regardless of torque applied - I use this with good quality Stiltsons. Additional modification allows a 6mm bar to be inserted/removed which allows the same tool to insert/remove the drive shaft bearing sleeve nut. Obviously, bar is removable but is secured in place with 2 small orings internally on the box spanner See also modified 'Draper' open end spanner to remove speedo nut. If the nut is too tight for this tool, the large black socket (47mm) can be slid over the speedo worm drive and the hardened 8mm 'pucks' are located on the flats of the speedo drive nut. This has removed very very tight speedo drives. The aluminium extrusion is used for measuring pinion depth. (see hole in centre for Depth Gauge and annotated in thou) It is a extrusion typically used for building 3d printers and is dimensionally accurate and flat measured on a surface plate. Additional measurements must be taken first with depth gauge to calculate if bearing centreline is true to the machine faces of the bellhousing and gearbox. (it won't be....) Also need a dial gauge to measure CWP backlash and a fishing/luggage type scale to measure diff bearing pre-load https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xB9RwODHPEonzsY2vUHHh2U4qQqiL5Rq/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aUpzWZ75dOu5No5pVWwpbhE6sqzAmM5f/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1neE_DnKNlGqGgNLTLGUJuHFMWCgDIX_v/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VrYeSqxn4YGBZsjj29q4CJHgvP9ohx_W/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/14k5qNFuABytUADLamN_A9qoXGZNT40UN/view?usp=sharinghttps://drive.google.com/file/d/1yoK7t7FZfPX44pY2w5doCk5iZvrPcBo2/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/15UIEzMIt1dWvvnv4uPiE2SBPCExEWjKC/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dwv6QrMPSw_hPYBHwol4EwbtEZ6n_Mgl/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bE222iXNLO9ZapvKwKTqe6oICzcXBRXZ/view?usp=sharing
  23. I'd love to, but as a Basic user I've used up all my free space. Maybe I can do it via a hosting site. Leave it with me....
  24. The vernier says 44mm (well 43.98 actually...) I first created this tool to use on an S2, so unless you have a non-standard nut, It's 44mm.
  25. 44mm according to the Vernier I suspect a socket may foul the sleeve nut that secures the outer race, although you could resolve this with a grinder. I use a deep box spanner. I also cross drilled a 6mm hole through the flats of the box spanner. Once I remove the driveshaft, I put a 61mmx6mm rod through the drilled holes, this then effectively provides the spigots that allows you to remove the sleeve nut. (using the same box spanner) This tool has dismantled/assembled a fair number of driveshaft housings and works great!
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