910Esprit

The mid-sheen finish looks great! Do they come painted or lacquered like that?

I guess a coup would be a good way out for Russia to re-engage with the West, but Putin still has a lot of popular support. But like you say, I cant see a way out for him

Black Pirelli webbing (used in upholstery|) using the original staples and fasteners looks completely original

Don't think so - your boost gauge is entirely pneumatic/mechanical unless its non-standard!

Dodged a bullet with the cam follower

S2 has a noticeably different chassis feel to the later S3 and my S2 was far more sensitive to (front) tyre pressure variance than a Turbo. Currently run my Turbo at 22F 27R

I suppose if its somehow the properties of the blue belt that causes it, there may be an argument for shortening the springs slightly, to ensure good engagement on the threaded screw

I'm also making an observation that the STC1816 is a smaller capacity unit too. (not sure about 2878) I suspect that's why none of the specialists have a neat plug & play replacement for Esprits. i.e. there's more to it than the push rod config

If you compare the STC1816 to an original Supervac fitted to the Esprit Turbo, the mounting pattern looks the same, but the overall diameter is bigger on the Esprit (compare the 2 servos side by side looking at the square pressing with the 4 mounting studs) The STC1816 is flush with the outer diameter of the servo, the original has around 1/2" additional material beyond the pressing (1" approx overall larger diameter). Hope that makes sense... (maybe its different on the NA Esprit?)

Its possible to remove and service the tensioner assembly leaving the cambelt in position. (I have done this) As long as nothing is disturbed, the belt will hold its position until the tensioner is reinstated. As the tensioner should only be backed-out a max of 12mm, even for belt removal, I would investigate further. NB - Mine is also an 84 with AC with recent tensioner springs and I run a lower Hz (typically 107) which would require a 'slacker' tensioner screw (My threaded portion sticks out by maybe 4mm beyond the locknut).

Yes, that's true, it seems to be sticking out almost as much as the recommended 'slack' setting for belt removal.

My AC idler sticks out a similar amount

Lou, its not a great picture, but my avatar shows the AC bracket for an S3 Turbo. The alternator mounts entirely outboard of the bracket and has a secondary cast triangular bracket (not shown) to support the other end of the alternator mounting (The Prestolite/Motorola AC alternators just have a single long tubular pivot - not one at each end unlike the non-AC models (on an S3). I'll have a look in my S2 service notes (when I return home in a few days) as I wonder if the S2 may be similar, and you have a mixture of parts.

Did something similar in the early 80's - was staying in the Copper Belt and drove up to the DRC border and down to Zimbabwe (Victoria Falls). Pretty epic trip with a few adventures (Guns, Roadblocks, DIY safaris and breaking down in the bush many miles from a metalled road etc...). 2023? Probably just Croatia again!

Hmmm I see what you mean about the position of the alternator is fixed. Its very different on later models. Would it be possible to swing the alternator higher? Think you need pics from a fellow owner of an AC/S2!

That's my thought. Alternators are of a standard size - Its unlikely there are 2 size variants of the 70amp Motorola cases - But there may be 2 mounting variants - One with a lug at each end of the unit and one with a large single 'tunnel' lug at one end (non AC / AC variants). Part number may clear this up

Do the pulleys line up perfectly? I wonder if the bracketry at the front of the engine is wrong/tweaked in some way. NB what's the part number from your Motorola units?

Mystic Meg style, I have placed a description of the successful candidate in a sealed envelope.

Nice - but happily we are not listed so have double glazing - it made a big difference to the original draughty single glazed units

We have a stone built, solid wall house from around 1860. Heated by a single small woodburner and 3 night store radiators. It is without doubt much easier to heat, stays warm longer and always cosier than our modern construction brick house. I guess it is much more efficient at capturing and storing solar energy in the wall stones themselves. We always used to buy solid fuel from discount shops which was 2.99 for 10kg as long as I remember. It is now typically 7.99 for 10kg But you do have the option of scavenging wood from skips etc, which is always plentiful

Also pointing on chimney 'perps' (vertical joints) looks past its sell by date. This could be a cause of dampness, but probably not a leak

@stevefh Hi Steve - It's available on APKPURE Carbon Drive Old Version (All Versions) APK Download (apkpure.com)

Its Gates Carbon Drive. I use an older version (1.2.1) as I prefer it to the later versions.

I did it on an S2 in a lock-up single garage without any problems. If I recall, there were about 6 'lifters' and we put an Acrow prop under each wheel arch to allow the chassis to be rolled out. Presumably if you measure the height of the top of the engine to the floor. And measure the bottom of the sill to the top of the car roof. These 2 figures added together would provide the scientific answer!

Mobile phone with Gates Carbon Drive app. NB Older version of Carbon Drive is better than the newer versions, so I re-installed an older version and suppressed it from updating