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sanj

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Everything posted by sanj

  1. sanj
    Here's my solution to the engine support issue. Inspired by a tool made by Stan, a former Lotus/Lambo tech. Adjustable up and down, it makes transaxle installation much easier. There is a large pad on a swivel on the other end of the centre threaded adjuster that supports the sump.
  2. sanj
    A missing resistor module in the red socket will most assuredly cause a code 26, so you might as well start there.
  3. sanj
    I can provide a laptop cable and USB adapter, PM me for details, or visit my website at http://home.earthlink.net/~turboesprit2/bitsforsale.html.
  4. sanj
    Inspired by Craig's vacuum pump delete idler shown in his post above (Htown), I designed and had fabricated a similar adjustment plate that uses the existing vacuum pump bracket. Like his, it is designed to use the A/C tensioner pulley, but can alternatively use an off-the shelf idler assembly from a Ford (with the substitution of a different spacer and bolt). Tension adjustment is performed exactly as it is with the factory pump installed, except one can now easily access the top pivot bolt! If anyone else wants to do this I did have a few extras made, PM me for details.
  5. sanj
    Not the model builder's fault. Monogram re-purposed their 1988 Esprit model kit to create the Sport 300, obviously they fell short.
  6. sanj
    http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=0virtualkey0virtualkey12015798-B http://delphi.com/manufacturers/cv/connection-systems/catalog/feature?search=12015798
  7. sanj
    The hub is not pinned to the wheel, it is welded on, and fairly substantially so. That said, you can carve it up, as I did. Prepare to spend the better part of an afternoon sawing and grinding to get it free and round. What you can't see in my pictures are the two substantial rods making up the spokes that are welded to the hub. Note that I threaded the two holes for alignment purposes, they are not threaded from the factory. Then you have to weld it to a custom made adapter, which is drilled for both Momo/Sparco and Nardi bolt patterns. I have extras for sale, PM me for details.
  8. sanj
    ^^^^^^^^^ This is exactly correct.
  9. sanj
    Hi Paul, You should see about joining Lotus Corps, the Chicago area Lotus club. We are having our annual tune-up clinic next month, and I'm sure we could give you a hand with this task. Also, I believe one of our club members has a stock V8 muffler he would love to get rid of, if you are still in need. http://www.lotuscorps.org/index.php
  10. sanj
    Did you try just using the o-ring that came with it?
  11. sanj
    Not true.
  12. sanj
    I have heard of the shaft breaking at the tail end on V8's due to the overhung 5th gear.
  13. sanj
    I would like to question this statement. I have never heard of anyone breaking the input shaft or primary shaft at their junction. Furthermore, by eliminating this flex point, you remove all tolerance for misalignment between the primary shaft and the crankshaft, which could be detrimental if more than a few thousandths. Carry on.
  14. sanj
    A rheostat capable of handling the required current for all of the dash lighting would be quite large, and get quite hot. This is likely why pre-'90 cars had two dimming rheostats.
  15. sanj
    Check the hose that runs horizontally between the back of the water pump and the inlet manifold. A leak at the water pump end will cause the mess you describe.
  16. sanj
    The harness with many wires and a black connector is used on Federal (USA) cars for the logic box/warning module. It would probably be unused on your car. The black box is probably the ice detection module.
  17. sanj
    Ah, I see!
  18. sanj
    I'm curious as to why you didn't make a single-piece adapter -- couldn't you have incorporated the black perch as part of the silver adapter?.
  19. sanj
    If he turns the crank so that the front timing mark lines up the cam pulley teeth will also move closer together.
  20. sanj
    There should be a bit of slack in the throttle cable at the engine end, you can check this by gently pushing on the bare cable where it attaches at the intake manifold. The MAP is probably in range for the RPM.
  21. sanj
    Hi Tommy, For starters, your idle RPM is still a lot higher than desired, so whatever is causing that needs to be addressed first.
  22. sanj
    It will make them much easier to fit, as it will act as a lubricant.
  23. sanj
  24. sanj
    Take the green module out and clean the contacts.
  25. sanj
    Disassembly is easy, just punch out the roll pin. Re-assembly is a bit tricky, but just pay attention to where all the bits go as you take it apart.
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