sanj

FreeScan 2.10 is available here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/bd8qp1gc8kwmc6k/freescan_210.zip?dl=0

If the loose wire has not been plugged into the coolant sensor under the intake manifold then the fans will never come on, and the engine will not run properly.

If not, I offer them here, shipped worldwide via eBay's Global Shipping program: https://www.ebay.com/itm/174943876951

$100 per set of 4, including all hardware and shipping in the US only. Note that these are specifically for US-specification Esprits only, designed to fit the 5.75" headlight mounting bases. https://www.jwspeaker.com/products/led-headlights-model-8630-evolution/ https://www.amazon.com/JW-Speaker-8630-5-75-Headlight/dp/B015ZBZMOM/

I used genuine (and very expensive) DOT-legal LED lamp assemblies from JW Speaker, made here in the USA.

Nice write-up! If there's enough interest, I could be convinced to make another run of these.

What vacuum pump are you using, and how do you regulate it? Thanks!

Here's my solution to the engine support issue. Inspired by a tool made by Stan, a former Lotus/Lambo tech. Adjustable up and down, it makes transaxle installation much easier. There is a large pad on a swivel on the other end of the centre threaded adjuster that supports the sump.

A missing resistor module in the red socket will most assuredly cause a code 26, so you might as well start there.

I can provide a laptop cable and USB adapter, PM me for details, or visit my website at http://home.earthlink.net/~turboesprit2/bitsforsale.html.

Inspired by Craig's vacuum pump delete idler shown in his post above (Htown), I designed and had fabricated a similar adjustment plate that uses the existing vacuum pump bracket. Like his, it is designed to use the A/C tensioner pulley, but can alternatively use an off-the shelf idler assembly from a Ford (with the substitution of a different spacer and bolt). Tension adjustment is performed exactly as it is with the factory pump installed, except one can now easily access the top pivot bolt! If anyone else wants to do this I did have a few extras made, PM me for details.

Not the model builder's fault. Monogram re-purposed their 1988 Esprit model kit to create the Sport 300, obviously they fell short.

http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=0virtualkey0virtualkey12015798-B http://delphi.com/manufacturers/cv/connection-systems/catalog/feature?search=12015798

The hub is not pinned to the wheel, it is welded on, and fairly substantially so. That said, you can carve it up, as I did. Prepare to spend the better part of an afternoon sawing and grinding to get it free and round. What you can't see in my pictures are the two substantial rods making up the spokes that are welded to the hub. Note that I threaded the two holes for alignment purposes, they are not threaded from the factory. Then you have to weld it to a custom made adapter, which is drilled for both Momo/Sparco and Nardi bolt patterns. I have extras for sale, PM me for details.

^^^^^^^^^ This is exactly correct.

Hi Paul, You should see about joining Lotus Corps, the Chicago area Lotus club. We are having our annual tune-up clinic next month, and I'm sure we could give you a hand with this task. Also, I believe one of our club members has a stock V8 muffler he would love to get rid of, if you are still in need. http://www.lotuscorps.org/index.php

Did you try just using the o-ring that came with it?

Not true.

I have heard of the shaft breaking at the tail end on V8's due to the overhung 5th gear.

I would like to question this statement. I have never heard of anyone breaking the input shaft or primary shaft at their junction. Furthermore, by eliminating this flex point, you remove all tolerance for misalignment between the primary shaft and the crankshaft, which could be detrimental if more than a few thousandths. Carry on.

A rheostat capable of handling the required current for all of the dash lighting would be quite large, and get quite hot. This is likely why pre-'90 cars had two dimming rheostats.

Check the hose that runs horizontally between the back of the water pump and the inlet manifold. A leak at the water pump end will cause the mess you describe.

The harness with many wires and a black connector is used on Federal (USA) cars for the logic box/warning module. It would probably be unused on your car. The black box is probably the ice detection module.

Ah, I see!

I'm curious as to why you didn't make a single-piece adapter -- couldn't you have incorporated the black perch as part of the silver adapter?.