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Everything posted by sanj

  1. It will make them much easier to fit, as it will act as a lubricant.
  2. Take the green module out and clean the contacts.
  3. Disassembly is easy, just punch out the roll pin. Re-assembly is a bit tricky, but just pay attention to where all the bits go as you take it apart.
  4. If it's been leaking it's highly likely the gasket has perished.
  5. Once again, it is an M8x1.25mm bolt. The one you took out is not standard. The threads may indeed be damaged, but putting the wrong bolt in is not going to help the situation.
  6. He's referring to the vertical bolt in the center of Travis' photo, which is threaded both into the black block and the nut above. It is not a through-hole, so you have to use an M8.
  7. It is a standard M8 bolt (1.25mm pitch). I'm fairly certain there is no such thing as an M8x1.5mm bolt.
  8. The drain plug on GM fuel injected cars is a bolt and washer in the right hand tank, at the bottom of the round sump into which the fuel pump is fitted. The picture posted by Ian does not resemble any SE/S4/S4s tank I've ever seen.
  9. The job is easier if you are going to replace the tank, as opposed to repairing it, because you can cut off the pipe that goes through the body to the lower crossover tube. Makes a huge difference in the struggle to get it out.
  10. Drill a largish hole in the footwell, sized to take one of the rubber plugs Lotus used all over the car. You will need to drill the pilot hole from the outside in order to locate it properly. Then you will have direct access to the offending bit from inside the car. Then plug the hole with the rubber plug and optionally some goo. Job done.
  11. If you don't need a vacuum pump then it doesn't matter which water pump you install.
  12. The diameter should be 70mm. The standard bearing is 63mm.
  13. It's supposed to be a split ring lockwasher. The ones I checked the measurements on definitely were, just as I removed them from the car (1991 SE).
  14. M10-1.25mm X 25 They have a recessed head with what appears to be an 11 or II marking.
  15. The female threads in the turbo and the mating male threads on the brass fitting are the same, either NPT or NPTF. If it's damage at the male end of the brass fitting you're dealing with there's no reason I can think of to stop you re-threading it. There is a limit on how short you can make it, however.
  16. I think as long as you have one incandescent bulb installed the rest can be LEDs. The ABS computer needs to be able to sense current through the filament even with the brake lights off.
  17. I would definitely get some proper penetrating fluid in there (not WD-40!), and be patient. I use Aero-Kroil, but everyone has their magic favorite. Acetone mixed with ATF supposedly works well.
  18. I always use the marks on the crank pulley and front seal cover, you shouldn't need to use the flywheel pointer..
  19. My point is that it is normal for a loose black wire to be present.
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