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  1. Not sure if I've missed this mentioned above but....... I'd bet production also shifts to Malaysia.
  2. On here; it's listed as; Lucas 18ACR 23737
  3. I got a three core rad ex Lotus Bits. Did the thermostat at the same time and cooling lots better afterwards
  4. The easiest route out for the rad is down.
  5. To clarify what is rumbling on.... As admin of I made an approach to TLF late last year. NOT the other way around. As I no longer had a Lotus and for personal reason did not have the time to run the forum well I looked for what seemed to be the best home. The Lotus Forums, to me, seemed the right place. From the first two weeks it looks to have been a good move. Bibs has been nothing less than helpful, and Andy Craig, the previous admin and originator of the site kept informed all of the way. This information was made available in a post on but was removed. I would hope that this can all be 'put to bed' very soon. It gets good Lotus owners a bad name. Dave
  6. How's the door beam itself. When I did mine on the Excel the bottom edge of the beam was rotten. The sagging was the beam flexing, not the hinge. The beam for the Excel was about £50 ex Lotusbits at the time. If you have to strip it down for the extra you might just as well change the beam while your at it. Drop the door card and have a good look first.
  7. Parts Alternatives – Excel Lotus Bits and Mike Taylor is always a great place to start, however some others extracted for the old site archive as a start. Lots at; http://silverstone.f.../lotustech.html Side/Turn Indictors; http://www.forge-ser...l%23a1292#a1292 Bonner Strut: Rover 800, perfect fit Peugeot206 tail gate strut is a perfect match Nissan Micra. rear hatch of a 1996 Thermostat Quinton Hazell thermostat QTH104, 82 degree opening temperature. Front & rear dampers Gaz units Cooling fans Late 80 early 90s Ford Fiesta/Escort
  8. Hi Guys, Originally DPR59 on then a few years as Admin now back to the original. I sent out a mass email, but only to members who had login in over the last 90 days. Can I thank everyone who replied. For others the trail of breadcrums leads here. On the subject of removing members, I did not discuss this openly on and will not here. I approached Bibs late last year about a forum transfer. I hope and believe that the old forum has found a good home. I know Bibs is continuing his efforts to import the old database. However this sits on an old and unsupported system, the discusware unix thingy. I have only been of limited help as my IT skills are those of an Analytical Chemist. In the short term the old site remains as a fully searchable archive. As far as I know this is the only site that offers a section dedicated to the Excel/Eclat/Elite as was I look forward to now reading posts on here with a less critical eye as I'm not responsible for Admin or Mod. I think this will be a great home for all 2+2 wedge drivers.
  9. Now the forums are coming together check out the three threads at: http://ccgi.arcnet.f...html?1267770172 Dave
  10. POST DEVELOPED FROM AN ORIGINAL GUIDE WRITTEN BY CHRIS WRIGHT The headlining and associated trim comprises 4 removable sections, plus two large rectangles, possible with a sunroof in the front section of the roof, 2 'b' pillars and the sun visors. Materials; I used 6 metres of foam-layered fabric from Woolies Trim or other specialists; (5 mts should be sufficient, I had to redo the sunroof after getting it wrong on first attempt) 1 litre high temperature contact adhesive Solvent for thinning glue. I didn’t have too much trouble removing the old material. The rear roof section looked like a hammock anyway. It has been mention elsewhere that if possible sections of roof lining that can be removed intact can be used as a template to cut the new material. This was not possible we mine. Also, ensure that a well ventilated area is available. We have an integral garage and the vapours for the adhesive got everywhere. So… Remove the rear seat, the backrest is secured by three metal twisted tabs accessed through the boot. The bolsters have screws on the front and rear edges. Pull the door aperture rubber seals away from the upper edge of the door cavity. It may be worth considering replacing these at the same time, if needed. The seat belts anchorages from the b pillars should be removed. Note have the bolts and washers fit together, along with the coat hooks if fitted. The Front fibreglass section is held in place by 6 screws, 2 behind each sun visor and 2 holding the rear view mirror bracket. This will drop freely once these screws are removed. The sun visors are held in place by nuts. Once removed carefully push one stud into the visor until it can be removed. Rear cant rails. These are secured by a single plastic push-in lug close to the top edge of the rear windscreen and are removed by easing out from the roll bar end, ease off the clip and flexing the trim over the edge of the rear seat. A single retaining screw holds the roll bar cover. This is accessible when the courtesy light is removed. The tops of the b pillars also hold this trim. Gently pull the b pillar inwards and down to provide clearance to push the roll bar cover up and over the top. It is not necessary to remove the ashtrays or the b pillars. Remove the existing material from the trim pieces, this wasn’t too difficult on mine as it was held on with double sided tape (and this car cost £28K new……) If a sunroof is fitted this will need removing. To remove mine a tilt only version, I first took out the glass panel and then removed the rubber-retaining band in the lower section. This allowed the fabric covering to drop and expose the retaining screws. With these removed the outer roof section lifted off while the inner half is removed through the passenger compartment. Remove old fabric from the roof. Be careful not to tear the foil that is an earth for the aerial. For the b pillars, remove the fabric carefully around the join with the leather trim. A sharp blade or modelling knife may be needed, again being carefully with the leather. The rear roof section fell away from mine. Ensure the surface is the cleared of any loose bits of fabric or backing foam that could cause lumps under the new material. Fitting the new material It is very important not to press too firmly on the material as it is offered up to glued surfaces. This could lead to adhesive soaking through on damaging the appearance of the new head lining. I did the sections removed from the car first. On all sections the material was glued in place. Lay the fabric over the section, or gently lay the section onto the fabric. Cut larger pieces than required to allow the material to wrap around the edges. The front and role bar sections I covered in a single piece, each. There a 4 mesh grill that I glue back in place on the role bar cover. These were given coat of black paint prior to refitting. The rear cant rails required two pieces each. One for the box section to the parcel shelf, the other on the long run above the rear side windows. At the edges where they meet I ran the square piece from the box section a few mm down the window length. The long length was then rolled under itself a little at the join. The provided as clean edge. Once you are happy with the fit of the material, apply adhesive to the fibreglass formers. Allow to become tacky, as directed on tin, and then very gently lay the material over the former. Do not allow to crease, gently pulling and moulding into the shapes of the formers. Once dry mark the holes for the sun visors, rear view mirror etc. This will make them much easier to identify in the refitting process. The above process was repeated for the b pillars. Again using adhesive over the whole area and gently shaping the fabric into the contours. I again used a small role of material to form a clean join with the leather. The excess fabric around the upright edges was simply tucked behind the pillars. The sun visors had almost fallen apart on mine. I used pices of cushion floor to reinforce and give shape to the individual visors. These were then cover wrapped in sponge to return the ‘soft’ feel and covered in the headlining material. I used black felt material to replace the black heat welded plastic, this was the only section that required stitching. Once dry the visors were fitted to the front header rail. For Roof sections I cut suitably sized squares of material. The contact adhesive should be applied the roof with a brush, covering the whole surface. I did the front panel first, cutting out the sunroof section once the material was securely in place. I may have used more adhesive than really required, but I didn’t want the material dropping again….. The material can be gently smoothed over the surface with light pressure of the hand or a soft cloth. The cloth option is best in case there is any adhesive on your hands. In practice this is not dissimilar to wallpapering. This is then repeated for the rear section. For the edge at the rear screen I left an extra 5-10mm and used a wall paper scrapper to push this edge into the gap over the roof panel and rear screen. To Re-fit the trim panels was in reverse order of removal. Easing the b pillars out to allow the role bar cover to be refitted. I then replace the ancillaries, mirror, courtesy lights seat belts etc.. Leaving the sunroof ‘till last This I had expected to be easiest, it was actually the hardest. Cut an oval of material that will wrap around the inner retaining ring. Glue this on the side that will mate with the roof. Once dry cut the inner away. Apply black mastic to the outer ring and place on the roof. From inside the car mate the inner ring to the rook and start to add the screws. Once this had dried I then pushed the material up and over the inner edge of the sunroof replacing the rubber-retaining collar. Trim the upper edge of the with a sharp knife and replace the glass panel. USING AN ORIGINAL GUIDE BY CHRIS WRIGHT WITH ADDITIONAL PICTURES Replace any coat hooks and door trims remaining. Vacuum the materials out of the passenger compartment. Replace the rear seats, ensuring the retaining tabs are bent back over in the boot area. Stand back and admire.
  11. WHEN WORKING WITH SPRINGS BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL OF THE RELEASING THE STORED ENERGY OF THE COMPRESSED SPRING. SUDDEN RELEASE MUST BE AVOIDED. First ensure the car is well supported. I use axel stands placed at points desigen to carry load. For the rear I use one at the point the lower wish bones meet under the diff. There is a rubber gromit on the leading edge on the lower wishbone that once removed will allow access to the inner head of the bolt through the bottom of the damper Use spring compressors to take the load off damper. Be extremelt careful with the spring as there is a large amount of stored energy looking to be released. The top retaining has two nuts. The retaining nut will be the hardest to remove as it cleans the threads on removal. It is a little difficult and cramped to access. Removal of these two nuts will take about 1/4 turns with a spanner until only finger tight. It will also be necessary to hold the damper outer sleave with mole grips as this will rotate with the upper retaining nuts. With the upper nuts removed and ensuring the spring is not under tennsion on the damper the lower bolt can be removed and the damper and spring dropped away. New and old damper together The spring can be cleaned if required (either sand blasted or chemical clean before paint). I used a phosphoric acid solution. This converts the rust (Ferric oxide) to Ferrous Phosphate which forms a very insoluble and solid base for priming. Once painted the springs can be compressed, again be very careful with the compressors, to a length of aboy 9 3/4". Then slide the new damper through the spring and locate at the top. Makeing sure the rubber bushes are located correctly. The lower bolt can then be secured before releasing the tension on the spring. Then apply platers ans salve to hands. Have beer and gert ready to...... Start the front. A schematic of where bolts, washers and gromits should be.
  12. Very stright forward with no access problems to any nuts or bolts. No spring compressors are needed unless the springs are also to be removed/replaced. Ensure the car is well supported. I use axel stands using load points for the suspension. In this case the inner lower link bolt. With the wheel off and the car suitably supported the hub, spring and damper assembly is easily accessed. Remove the locking nut and the retaining nut from the top of the damper (17mm nuts) The remove the nut and bolt from the lower link/damper assembly (19mm). It may be necessary to use a screw driver and hammer, angled through the spring, to tap out the old damper. This is removed through the lower link arm. Use the trolley jack to lift the lower link until there is sufficient angle available to reomve the damper. Feed the new damper in, ensuring you orientate the adjuster so you know which side it is. With the top of the damper seated and the rubbers and washer, put a few turns on the upper nut. This will hold it in place while you adust the bottom. With the aid of the trolley jack line up the lower link bolt holes with the lower damper. Replace the spacers either side of the damper as you feed the bolt through. This may take a little playing around until the bolts passes right through. Then tighten the upper and lower nuts and bolts. Replace road wheel remove supports and lower car. Assembly diagram for guide to positioning of spacers, nuts, bolts and rubbers.
  13. A very straight forward job. Remove the two retaining lugs from the black surround and remove. The headlight units are held in place by three push fit lugs. Gentle leverage with a screw driver is all that's required to pop the fasteners. Draw the headlight away and disconnect the buld power cable. Reaching through the opening to gain access. The pod has three securing points. The bobbins on either side and the lift motor connection. Remove the bobbin bolts, I left the last few threads in until I'd disconnected the lift motor. Again gentle leverage with a screwdriver will pop the fastener. Lift the Pod away from the body of the car. Now an engineer would probably re rivet the bobbins. However I'm a Chemist so I've used adhesives. I forced adhesive behind the bobbin and then positioned, leaving to dry. I then gave the expossed adhesive a coat of paint the cover it, oiled the pod lift arm and reassemble in reverse order. Success. Then for some upgraded reflectors
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